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Warthog base expects up to three shift registers. Each is used for eight switches. You probably shorted second chip. If you have less than 3 chips, some switches simply cannot be pressed. And Warthog has 22 switches so last two pins on last SR are newer used. They can be used with Mmjoy2 or some other controller.

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Nope. No shorting. I tested it with my multimeter. I have a pro micro, so I plugged the x-fighter to it, and it shows correctly only the pressed buttons. Windows joy-cpl and vkb-buttontest still show 11-18 as pressed when I use the wh base. Again, I am willing to see this as a cosmetic problem; as long as I do not map these buttons in dcs, no harm is done, but I am still curious about the how and why.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello,

my apologies in advance if this information is available somewhere inside the many pages of this thread; I just wasn't sure what information would be a 100% up to date with the current status of the shop and other possible factors.

 

My situation is that I have purchased the Thrustmaster F-16 (Warthog) stick and while everything about it feels great it came with pitch movement feeling very unnatural.

 

After some searching I came upon this thread:

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=170588

 

Which pictured exactly where the movement was and read answers about the tail stock becoming loose and could benefit from some Locktite.

 

Together with information in another thread, which mentions possible third party parts with better quality as the original had me pretty convinced of what the problem was:

 

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=173089

 

 

Not sure if I wanted to replace some part having just purchased the joystick I felt confident in being content with no slack and perhaps getting the 13 degree tailpiece in the future if it wore down after long term usage.

 

However, after opening up the stick I found that one half of what should be keeping the stick into place (by one of 2 screws) was probably broken in manufacturing and had an improvised solution that clearly doesn't cut it; see pictures attached.

 

After tightening the one screw that actually had some use to it the stick felt great but slack/movement returned after one evening of playing DCS, which wasn't a surprise at this point.

 

---

 

In summary/some questions:

 

* Googled to find out the probable cause for movement/slack in the stick.

* Expected to be tightening 2 screws and have at least some months of being able to use the stick before re-tightening.

* Found a part clearly broken off during manufacturing with a non-working "solution" (a bump added where the actual screw holder would be) that passed quality control (not that surprising as the movement is hard to notice without it being mounted on the base plate).

* Not sure if this is even a warranty situation since I opened the thing.

* Looking for an answer to these questions:

 

1. Is there any machining required or things to be aware of purchasing this part:

https://www.shapeways.com/product/XRFBJD5SX/thrustmaster-joystick-tailpiece-13-deg-angle-m

 

2. Does the weight of the steel replacement add possible problems and if so, is the plastic version sufficient over the steel one durability wise?

 

3. Does anyone have experience with ordering from Shapeways from Europe (Netherlands here)?

meh.thumb.jpg.a3fd13c71ba9f2473aff0c124d35e5a6.jpg

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Hello,

I have purchased and installed a plastic version of a straight but offset 15 deg (for center stick mounting) tailpiece from Shapeways and I'm very happy with it. I haven't tried the steel the version but the plastic version looks and feel very sturdy. The connector screws thread themselves although you might have to enlarge the holes a bit (but it's easy, you can do it with a narrow screwdriver). I used it for a couple of weeks and it shows no sign of play. I ordered it from Romania and it arrived in standard time (a couple of days for express shipping) with no problem.

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2. Does the weight of the steel replacement add possible problems and if so, is the plastic version sufficient over the steel one durability wise?

 

The weight of steel 3D print piece will be not significantly different of the original Zamak piece. Steel is ~20% more dense than Zamak (8.050 x 6.8 kg/m3).

 

 

Until now no one who bough plastic versions in Shapeways complain about broken parts, what may happens with the original piece. And the part printed in Shapeways has wider walls to be more resistant.

 

I remember some users post about little flex, think that using the grip in Force Sense base.

 

But, since the grip is new, why not use the warranty?


Edited by Sokol1_br
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I used to have a Shapeways piece on my Warthog grip and it broke where the screw connects it to the grip.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

DEFENSOR FORTIS

Spoiler

Systems: Falcon NW Talon: Ryzen 9 5950X @4.9GHz, 64GB DDR4, RTX 3090 FE; Falcon NW Mach V: Core i7 3930K @3.2GHz, 32GB DDR3, GTX 1080 FE

Cockpit: MonsterTech MTX F, 42" 4K TV, HP Reverb G2, Oculus Rift S, PointCTRL

Controls: RS F16SGRH CE, RS F18CGRH, VPC T-50CM2, VFX, WarBRD (Grips); VPC T-50CM2, RS FSSB R3L (Bases); Winwing F/A-18C, VPC T-50CM3, VPC T-50CM, TM Warthog, Cougar (Throttles); VPC ACE2 (Rudders)

 

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I ordered the polished bronze tail piece for my old WH joystick (my Dad now uses it) 2yrs ago and it hasn't missed a beat.

Ryzen 9 7950X3D - MSI MAG X670E TomaHawk MB, ASUS ROG Ryujin III 360 AIO

64gig Corsair DDR5@6000, Gigabyte GeForce RTX 4090 AORUS

Winwing Super Taurus, Orion2, TO / Combat panels, Collective with Topgun MIP

Winwing Skywalker pedals, NLR Boeing Mil Edition Simpit, Trackir

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The weight of steel 3D print piece will be not significantly different of the original Zamak piece. Steel is ~20% more dense than Zamak (8.050 x 6.8 kg/m3).

 

 

Until now no one who bough plastic versions in Shapeways complain about broken parts, what may happens with the original piece. And the part printed in Shapeways has wider walls to be more resistant.

 

I remember some users post about little flex, think that using the grip in Force Sense base.

 

But, since the grip is new, why not use the warranty?

 

Partly since I was considering the replacement part when searching for information and the fact I took the thing apart and have no prior experience with Thrustmaster warranty and what time it would take, etc.

 

And not sure how much I trust pot metal for the small dimensions the screw holders are.

 

--

 

Anyhow; thanks for your answer and of others!

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By the way, I had the 15 degree twist piece on a Warthog grip (the one I mentioned breaking at the screw attachment), but used a separate grip on my FSSB (and later got the RealSimulator F16SGRH CE grip).

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

DEFENSOR FORTIS

Spoiler

Systems: Falcon NW Talon: Ryzen 9 5950X @4.9GHz, 64GB DDR4, RTX 3090 FE; Falcon NW Mach V: Core i7 3930K @3.2GHz, 32GB DDR3, GTX 1080 FE

Cockpit: MonsterTech MTX F, 42" 4K TV, HP Reverb G2, Oculus Rift S, PointCTRL

Controls: RS F16SGRH CE, RS F18CGRH, VPC T-50CM2, VFX, WarBRD (Grips); VPC T-50CM2, RS FSSB R3L (Bases); Winwing F/A-18C, VPC T-50CM3, VPC T-50CM, TM Warthog, Cougar (Throttles); VPC ACE2 (Rudders)

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

zhutwo

 

If you 3D print "Object 77-b" CAM gimbal, this will fit inside Suncom case and accept contacless sensor.

 

Is just need print a additional spacer.

 

Suncom-spacer.jpg

 

If ask ROSS-Karavan in above topic (write in English under spoiler) he can draw a pole for Suncon grip, will need that you take measures.

 

This gimbal was used in Cobra M-5, VKB Gladiator, HOTAS Cougar sticks.


Edited by Sokol1_br
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zhutwo

 

If you 3D print "Object 77-b" CAM gimbal, this will fit inside Suncom case and accept contacless sensor.

 

Is just need print a additional spacer.

 

Suncom-spacer.jpg

 

If ask ROSS-Karavan in above topic (write in English under spoiler) he can draw a pole for Suncon grip, will need that you take measures.

 

This gimbal was used in Cobra M-5, VKB Gladiator, HOTAS Cougar sticks.

 

 

Oh that's interesting, thanks. If using a gimbal solution, will it remove the smooth feeling of the saturn ring when crossing axis?

 

I'm curious what is the solution you are using in your own build? You seem to be the resident Suncom expert :)


Edited by zhutwo
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I believe that CAM gimbal leave axis separation more defined, since are two distinct axes points.

 

If you objective is keep Suncom original gimbal - what is similar to Warthog/T.16000, X-5x gimbals operation (all considere so so) the only solution proposed until now is the old DocFlyer pot to HALL conversion, but AFAIK he is the only person who made this conversion, in ~10 years no second feedback is know.

 

In SimHQ sare a link for their PDF instructions.

 

Well, I have 4 or 5 Suncom's laying around, but never use then jus due the lack of practical gimbal solution.

3D Print in "corner of the world" or is very expensive or lack or quality in print and materials

 

Besides Object 77-B in il2sturmovik.ru forum are a guy selling a metal gimbal that fit inside Suncom case.

Too need the above spacer, but are based in a kind of pincer, so with more defined center and transition than CAM.


Edited by Sokol1_br
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Did you try the DocFlyer mod? It didn't work out for me so I'm trying a home made solution that uses a fulcrum point instead of sliding the magnets. If it doesn't work I may just order new potentiometers and live with having to replace them every so often. At least now you can find the slide potentiometers for cheap when it wasn't so before.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey debolestis,

 

Just installed the Thrustmaster joystick tailpiece, 13 deg. angle (black plastick) on my Warthog stick to use it with an FSSB.

 

I noticed that, the stick is actually a bit loose and moves sideways around the tailpiece.

 

Do you have any recommendation, how to fix this? I don't want to overtighten the bolts though.

 

Do I need to use washers by any chance or I got a slightly off print from Shapeways?

 

Thanks

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Hey debolestis,

 

Just installed the Thrustmaster joystick tailpiece, 13 deg. angle (black plastick) on my Warthog stick to use it with an FSSB.

 

I noticed that, the stick is actually a bit loose and moves sideways around the tailpiece.

 

Do you have any recommendation, how to fix this? I don't want to overtighten the bolts though.

 

Do I need to use washers by any chance or I got a slightly off print from Shapeways?

 

Thanks

 

 

I am sorry that this is happening to you. This can be the case with FSSB, try use some electrical tape. If it doesn't work, let me know and I'll print a new one for you.

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  • 3 months later...

Hi Debolestis,

 

I am in the middle of mounting my CH Fighterstick handle on my MS FFB2 shaft. I was looking for an adapter so I don't have to cut both of the joystick shafts. Does the Combat Stick have the same mounting shaft as the fighter stick? The Fighter stick shaft is 40mm tall, 12.75mm in diameter, has a divot in the shaft 27mm from the top, and has two little 2.5mm wings on it. I thought your FFB2 to Combat Stick was going to be perfect for this, but I see that it is rather tall. Is there any chance you have 1) a version that is much shorter (as short as possible (80mm)? and 2) a version that has the FFB2 spring retainer foot modeled into the base (not a huge requirement, but it would be nice to have this mechanical resistance to torque) like the Sopwith stick has: https://imgur.com/a/RnQQbAA . It also needs to be hollow so I can feed a 4mm cable through it down to the FFB2 base

QqvX2l4.png

 

I guess I just need a version of your FFB2 to Combat Stick adapter where the FFB2 part of the shaft is 30mm instead of 120mm (given the Combat Stick shaft is the same as the Fighter Stick). Can you do that? 

 

EDIT: Whipped one up in Fusion 360. Was easier than I thought it would be. Going to bug a buddy of mine to print it. My new year's resolution is to buy a 3D printer, they're so cool!

CH Fighterstick to FFB2 Adapter.png

 


Edited by Namco51
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Hi Debolestis,

Really enjoying discovering your stellar work here! 

I was thinking of making a CH Fighterstick that fits a VKB Gunfighter base, using VKB's Warthog adapter.

First I thought I could just use your tailpiece for CH Fighterstick designed to make it fit a Warthog/Virpil base, but after looking at how the VKB adapter works I think this needs another iteration of the model. Here's an image for convenience:GF-TM-Adapter.png

It looks thicker than the Fighterstick but I don't have the measurements. Could you make one that fits the CH screws? Assuming we can salvage the connector from the VKB.

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AstroNomad

 

The (proprietary) connector in VKB adapter is pressed in the place, probable you will destroy something trying take appart.

 

I think that will be more easy - if feasible,  modify CH grip base for fit in VKB adapter.

 

BTW - You need a 3xCD4021 shift register PCB inside CH grip for "talk" with VKB electronic adapter, what will require too redo the connections (actually a 5x4 matrix) of buttons and HAT's. 

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18 hours ago, Sokol1_br said:

The (proprietary) connector in VKB adapter is pressed in the place, probable you will destroy something trying take appart.

 

I think that will be more easy - if feasible,  modify CH grip base for fit in VKB adapter.

Thanks mate, you are probably right as usual -- I didn't know VKB adapter is pressed in, although it makes sense since it is load bearing over the connector. 

I was hoping to get the shift registers on the PCBs from Debolestis. If I get more than 24bit, do you think I can add more switches? That is to say, is the number of switches limited by the VKB's adapter, or NJoy? 

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