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First time poster here. I could not find a commercial Hall sensor replacement for the cougar so I made one. It is a bolt on (set screws actually) and plug in hall sensor replacement. The magnet mounts are CNC machined and attach with set screws. A small PCB with the sensor and capacitor directly replaces the pot with the original 2 screws. I don't know if this is the appropriate place for this info. If it is I will take some pics. With machine and assembly time I think I could make them available for $25.00 a set if anyone is interested. A set would be 2 neodymiumn magnets, 1 holder with set screws, 1 PCB w/Hall sensor, capacitor,and hardwired plug. 1 CNC machined PCB spacer. 1 set specifically for the X and 1 set specifically for the Y axis would be required.

 

Miles


Edited by MilesD

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First time poster here. I could not find a commercial Hall sensor replacement for the cougar so I made one. It is a bolt on (set screws actually) and plug in hall sensor replacement. The magnet mounts are CNC machined and attach with set screws. A small PCB with the sensor and capacitor directly replaces the pot with the original 2 screws. I don't know if this is the appropriate place for this info. If it is I will take some pics. With machine and assembly time I think I could make them available for $25.00 a set if anyone is interested. A set would be 2 neodymiumn magnets, 1 holder with set screws, 1 PCB w/Hall sensor, capacitor,and hardwired plug. 1 CNC machined PCB spacer. 1 set specifically for the X and 1 set specifically for the Y axis would be required.

 

Miles

Hey Miles was wondering so you didn't have to mess with the joystick code any to you just flopped potentiometer with hall sensor and the joystick code see's it the same. You get full motion still?

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Hey Miles was wondering so you didn't have to mess with the joystick code any to you just flopped potentiometer with hall sensor and the joystick code see's it the same. You get full motion still?

 

Yeah pretty much. The joystick should function. Altough you have to calibrate it again. Calibrating is required everytime you open up the joystick and fiddled with the inner bits.

 

Joystick boards look for voltage variations. Not resistance. So basically, a 10KOhm pot works as good as a 50K or 100K. (but don't mix-up different pots on one joystick controller) And just as well as a HALL sensor. Without any magnetic influence, the HALL sensor's output is about half the nominal voltage. But it should be connected correctly. It is possible to blow up a HALL sensor (it happened to me) But it is nearly imposible to blow up a POT-meter.

 

Anyways, I would be interested in the HALL sensors. Don't you have any pictures and/or a YouTube vid showing its functioning?


Edited by 1.JaVA_Platypus

Happy Flying! :pilotfly:

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First time poster here. I could not find a commercial Hall sensor replacement for the cougar so I made one. It is a bolt on (set screws actually) and plug in hall sensor replacement. The magnet mounts are CNC machined and attach with set screws. A small PCB with the sensor and capacitor directly replaces the pot with the original 2 screws. I don't know if this is the appropriate place for this info. If it is I will take some pics. With machine and assembly time I think I could make them available for $25.00 a set if anyone is interested. A set would be 2 neodymiumn magnets, 1 holder with set screws, 1 PCB w/Hall sensor, capacitor,and hardwired plug. 1 CNC machined PCB spacer. 1 set specifically for the X and 1 set specifically for the Y axis would be required.

 

Miles

 

In for two sets when they are ready!

 

Sierra

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Hey Guys

Thanks for the info Brewnix, I was looking for a more economical replacement for everyone other than $100.00 a sensor. Java_Platypus is correct. These are just a direct replacement. However these sensors put out between .5 at the low and 4.5 volts at the max which pretty much match the stock pot. Some sensors do put out 2 volts max as Java says. I went through dozens of sensors and magnet combos to get it just right as far as range and linearity. In the end I was surprised it did not even require re-calibration from the stock sensor.(although you should calibrate) I will post some pics and videos today.

 

Thanks for the feedback

 

Miles

Now shipping up to website Pre-Order Form date 2022/03/10

Pre-Order  Form Submission https://pointctrl.com/preorder-form/

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Most of joystick circuits, as DIY USB Controllers (BU0836, DSO, MMjoy2...) work with 5v for axis power.

 

Saitek use 3,5v (supposed a way to minimize "noise" in cheap circuits) - a workaround there is take the needed +5V direct from USB cable to supply the HALL.

 

There's a good demand for a "PnP" option for replace Saitek pot's (as they not sell parts), but there as issue:

 

The HALL axis diameter and D recess need be the same of Saitek pot to be able to fit in their gimbals.

 

In joysticks that use pot, the pot axis is part of gimbal, in CH if you remove the pot the gimbal fall apart.

 

Anyway good initiative, but... "wheres the pics?". :)


Edited by Sokol1_br
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Thanks for the info Sokol1_br

As you can see in the pics I took a different approach to this retrofit. When I get some more time today I will post some video showing linearity and precision, as well as oscilloscope pics showing circuit stability. Anyway here a few pics. I removed the Y axis board for clarity of the set up. These mounts are PVC, production will be delrin.

 

Miles

20160213_103607_resized.jpg

20160213_103140_resized.jpg

20160213_101045_resized.jpg

Now shipping up to website Pre-Order Form date 2022/03/10

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I missing the "cougar" word in your initial post. :)

 

But for what matter, the kit is really "PnP". :thumbup:

 

Look at option for (Cougar) TQS too.

 

I see that you use a condenser between HALL legs, in Avia-Forum (Russian) the guys conclude that this kind of filter can add lag in axis response, you notice any?

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I will try and add "cougar" thanks

 

TQS is next on the list

 

I also made replacement boards that plug in for the old F22 and TQS that turn them into USB 32 button controllers if anyone is interested.

 

Reference your lag question. If you put to large of a filter capacitor in, it will slow down response because of the time it takes to charge and discharge. Its mostly only noticed on the discharge side. This is a very low pF and has no effect on speed. The internal filtering on this sensor is so good I did not really even notice any changes with it. I only added because the spec sheet suggested it.

 

Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it.

Now shipping up to website Pre-Order Form date 2022/03/10

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Hey Guys

Thanks for the info Brewnix, I was looking for a more economical replacement for everyone other than $100.00 a sensor. Java_Platypus is correct. These are just a direct replacement. However these sensors put out between .5 at the low and 4.5 volts at the max which pretty much match the stock pot. Some sensors do put out 2 volts max as Java says. I went through dozens of sensors and magnet combos to get it just right as far as range and linearity. In the end I was surprised it did not even require re-calibration from the stock sensor.(although you should calibrate) I will post some pics and videos today.

 

Thanks for the feedback

 

Miles

Thanks Miles appreciate the reply and good job on the retro fit..

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I've totally retired my Cougar stick base so I'm not really interested in the upgrade for the base, but I'd love to get some more life out of the throttle. If you work up a mount for the throttle quadrant at a reasonable price, I'm most likely in. Hell, if you're willing to sell a single board, I can probably bodge up my own mount on the 3d printer.

 

Edit: Hell, at $25/unit, I'll just buy a kit and not use the other half. :P


Edited by Alterscape
Just saw the projected price.
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I've totally retired my Cougar stick base so I'm not really interested in the upgrade for the base, but I'd love to get some more life out of the throttle. If you work up a mount for the throttle quadrant at a reasonable price, I'm most likely in. Hell, if you're willing to sell a single board, I can probably bodge up my own mount on the 3d printer.

 

Edit: Hell, at $25/unit, I'll just buy a kit and not use the other half. :P

 

I will be doing a dedicated throttle kit next, and that should be around $30.00.

Thanks for the interest

 

Miles

Now shipping up to website Pre-Order Form date 2022/03/10

Pre-Order  Form Submission https://pointctrl.com/preorder-form/

PointCTRL Support Discord https://discord.gg/jH5FktJ

PintCTRL Website https://pointctrl.com/

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Delivery

 

Hi Miles,

 

If you can deliver this as a set I'm in!

 

hsth.

 

I don't see delivery being a problem. I cut some production boards and spacers today. I am just waiting on the JST connectors and some longer M4 bolts to replace the stock ones. I am also working on the throttle conversion now.

 

Thanks for the interest :)

 

20160215_134117_resized.jpg

Now shipping up to website Pre-Order Form date 2022/03/10

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I am going to be in for some of these. I will need 2 sets for Cougar stick and throttle once available.

 

Brilliant!

 

Out

 

Here is the 3D model for the cougar throttle sensor board bracket and magnet holder. Should have them milled out and the PCBs done by the end of the weekend. Its a PnP replacement just like the throttle. Phillips screwdriver and allen wrench all all that required.

 

Thanks for the interest PoleCat

 

Miles

Cougar Throttle Mounting Brackets.JPG

Now shipping up to website Pre-Order Form date 2022/03/10

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I will be doing a dedicated throttle kit next, and that should be around $30.00.

Thanks for the interest

 

Miles

 

Ok then I'm in for a full set.

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Here is the 3D model for the cougar throttle sensor board bracket and magnet holder. Should have them milled out and the PCBs done by the end of the weekend. Its a PnP replacement just like the throttle. Phillips screwdriver and allen wrench all all that required.

 

Thanks for the interest PoleCat

 

Miles

Cougar Throttle Mounting Brackets.JPG

 

Out of curiosity...How are ya addressing the throttle "Bumps"? The original TM solution was pretty poorly designed.

 

Sierra


Edited by Sierra99

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Out of curiosity...How are ya addressing the throttle "Bumps"? The original TM solution was pretty poorly designed.

 

Sierra

 

Throttle bumps? Do you mean the Idle and AB detents? These were very poorly adjusted at the factory (usually too close together and somewhere in the middle of the throttle travel) but are easily adjusted to your liking. You can even remove them completely if that is your preference. I have mine set very nicely for idle and afterburner.

 

Out


Edited by PoleCat
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Cougar Throttle Hall SensorKit

 

Here is the latest iteration of the cougar throttle kit. It went through a few changes to make it the most user friendly to install. Just swap out 2 of the main board screws with provided longer ones to attach the plate and sensor assembly. The magnet holder just slides on the shaft and locks with a set screw. I still have some fine tuning to do as the angular displacement of the magnets is large. I will probably have to add a 3rd magnet or a second sensor to get everything right.

Here are some pics so far.

 

Miles

 

20160221_122124_resized.jpg

 

20160221_132554_resized.jpg

 

 

20160221_132539_resized.jpg

Now shipping up to website Pre-Order Form date 2022/03/10

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Nice work! How soon can I purchase a full set for throttle and stick?

 

Out

 

I am going on vacation until March 2. I should be able to start shipping production units around March 10th.

 

Thanks for the interest

 

Miles

Now shipping up to website Pre-Order Form date 2022/03/10

Pre-Order  Form Submission https://pointctrl.com/preorder-form/

PointCTRL Support Discord https://discord.gg/jH5FktJ

PintCTRL Website https://pointctrl.com/

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