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New Hall Sensor kits


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Shouldn't need more Gauss??

 

Auto jumps, explain please. Are you using a DMM or the axis indicators in DCS?

 

Auto jumping as in the axis moves on it's own , e.g. when calibrating the throttle on the Z axis you will see the movement happens auto.

 

I am using windows device calibration axis indicators. Device and Printers under that , so if you try to calibrate it will have a red and blue bar which automatically keeps going up right or left. even when there is no magnetic field.


Edited by humptydumpty

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Wing Commander SWAC

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So tried the Arduino uno using a LED and put the magnet near the sensor and the light is going ON and then OFF depending on the magnetic distance.

 

Thanks Fragbum about the data pin :)

 

Now I will search for a code for the axis and lets see how it goes, the plan is to make a cyclic / collective with the throttle .

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It would be better to establish that the HALL effect device is working correctly before writing code. This will only require a digital meter to see if the voltage changes with proximity of the magnet.

 

Also pin 3 is not data in a CPU sense it's an analogue voltage value. :D

Control is an illusion which usually shatters at the least expected moment.

Gazelle Mini-gun version is endorphins with rotors. See above.

 

Currently rolling with a Asus Z390 Prime, 9600K, 32GB RAM, SSD, 2080Ti and Windows 10Pro, Rift CV1. bu0836x and Scratch Built Pedals, Collective and Cyclic.

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It would be better to establish that the HALL effect device is working correctly before writing code. This will only require a digital meter to see if the voltage changes with proximity of the magnet.

 

Also pin 3 is not data in a CPU sense it's an analogue voltage value. :D

 

Hi,

 

The hall effect is working with the magnets, I checked it with the meter and also using a LED , so If I get the south pole next to the sensor the LED lights up and when I move it away the light goes off and same with the voltage it drops below 2.0v.

 

Though I need to change the firmware to Unojoy and I almost bricked it:). I am not sure how I will go about the sensors with Unojoy . There is also MMjoy. I need to check more so that I can use this as a HID Joystick and also if possible for some gauges to display.

 

The Arduino Uno what I have is the clone one.

 

Thanks for the help Fragbum.

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Wing Commander SWAC

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@Fragbum

 

This is what I am going to try , it has something for Hall sensors, I have not yet found anything with Unojoy using Hall sensors.

 

https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/wiki/Connecting-basic-inputs-and-setting-up-software

 

Wish me luck that I don't brick it again :)

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Wing Commander SWAC

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If your UNO use ATMEGA32u4 or AT90USB MMJoy2 firmware is what you need - was developed by MegaMOZG, the guy behind VirPil electronics.

 

Check MMjoy2 topic there in ED forum.

 

 

Hi Sokol,

 

The chip has a label AT328p-u and I am already trying MMjoy, though thanks for the info. I will post the results. I do have the hall effect connected on Digital pin 12 lets see how does MMjoy

 

Its a clone Arduino Uno R3


Edited by humptydumpty

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Wing Commander SWAC

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The chip has a label AT328p-u

 

In this case no 'joy'. :D

 

AT328 is not supported in MMjoy2 firmware - maybe in early MMJoy firmware's for Mjoy16... not sure if remain available in MegaMOZG page.

 

BTW - I find there an old MMjoy package (2014) that include 'MMJoy_atmega328p_16000000_32.hex' firmware.


Edited by Sokol1_br
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In this case no 'joy'. :D

 

AT328 is not supported in MMjoy2 firmware - maybe in early MMJoy firmware's for Mjoy16... not sure if remain available in MegaMOZG page.

 

BTW - I find there an old MMjoy package (2014) that include 'MMJoy_atmega328p_16000000_32.hex' firmware.

 

Yeah it don't work nothing works :( i will check mjoy16 thanks.

 

I tried unojoy and connected a pot to the A0 but nothing


Edited by humptydumpty

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Wing Commander SWAC

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@Fragbum

 

@Sokol1_br

 

Very weird think happened when today morning before leaving for work i tried the hall effect back on the logitech attack 3 with a 5v USB external power , the axis was jumping , i don't know from where i got this brilliant idea , but i went ahead and connected the VCC and the GND of the logitech on to the relevant pins of the hall effect.

 

Now both USB 5V + GND and Logitech 5v + GND are connected to the hall effect pins and the 3rd to the analougue and then i put the magnet and voila there it was working and super smooth.

 

Now i need to figure out how to connect the magnets in the efficient way.

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Wing Commander SWAC

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Okay but would it not be better to just run the device from the Logitech supply and avoid?

 

A USB power source for testing but now it should just run off the Logitech now that you know it works.

Control is an illusion which usually shatters at the least expected moment.

Gazelle Mini-gun version is endorphins with rotors. See above.

 

Currently rolling with a Asus Z390 Prime, 9600K, 32GB RAM, SSD, 2080Ti and Windows 10Pro, Rift CV1. bu0836x and Scratch Built Pedals, Collective and Cyclic.

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Okay but would it not be better to just run the device from the Logitech supply and avoid?

 

A USB power source for testing but now it should just run off the Logitech now that you know it works.

 

Yes that is the best option , but strangely the voltage is way below 1v on the analogue pin when i connect them only to the logitech.

 

But surprises me is why it is working the way i have connected , maybe not enough grounding i don't know.

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Yes that is the best option , but strangely the voltage is way below 1v on the analogue pin when i connect them only to the logitech.

 

But surprises me is why it is working the way i have connected , maybe not enough grounding i don't know.

 

So when you have the device connected to the Logitech is there like about 5V between pin 1 vdd ans pin 2 gnd?

 

There maybe build out resisters between the supply lines to the "pot" perhaps worth investigating.


Edited by FragBum
<corrected pin out doh!>

Control is an illusion which usually shatters at the least expected moment.

Gazelle Mini-gun version is endorphins with rotors. See above.

 

Currently rolling with a Asus Z390 Prime, 9600K, 32GB RAM, SSD, 2080Ti and Windows 10Pro, Rift CV1. bu0836x and Scratch Built Pedals, Collective and Cyclic.

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So when you have the device connected to the Logitech is there like about 5V between pin 1 GND ans pin 2 vdd?

 

There maybe build out resisters between the supply lines to the "pot" perhaps worth investigating.

 

 

When i connect the Sensor only to the Logitech pins the voltage on the analogue drops below 1v.

 

What I will do is once i get back home in a couple of hours , recheck the voltages and post it here.

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When i connect the Sensor only to the Logitech pins the voltage on the analogue drops below 1v.

 

What I will do is once i get back home in a couple of hours , recheck the voltages and post it here.

 

Meh my bad pin 1 vdd and pin 2 gnd !!

Control is an illusion which usually shatters at the least expected moment.

Gazelle Mini-gun version is endorphins with rotors. See above.

 

Currently rolling with a Asus Z390 Prime, 9600K, 32GB RAM, SSD, 2080Ti and Windows 10Pro, Rift CV1. bu0836x and Scratch Built Pedals, Collective and Cyclic.

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Meh my bad pin 1 vdd and pin 2 gnd !!

 

Do you mean on the logitech pins ? What i remember was that the 3rd pin is ground because that's when i get some voltate showing up on the meter , but the moment i get home i will test it again.

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@Fragbum

 

Just checked the voltage on the logitech Pins , 3rd is ground and the voltage i get is around 3.9 to 4v , but on the 2nd pin the voltage is way too low around 0.25v.

 

Now i am thinking of using 5v of the arduino rather than connecting the external USB power.

 

One thing if you would help me with is the position of the magnet to the MH481. what i have noticed is that the axis only goes half way , meaning it will go to 100% but remain at 50% when moving the magnet away , so it remains in the center , this i am trying on the Z axis for now ,but using different angles i get the axis to full high and full low which is a bit confusing. Would appreciate some suggestions

 

Now i know that the sensors are working so i can use the arduino for gauges display and switches that should be fine. As the 10k pot is working on it using Unojoy.

 

Maybe later i might by the Leonardo board but that;s later. Before that i have to figure out the collective with throttle design.

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In this "how-to" the guy are connecting HALL sensor (SS495A1) in Saitek X-45, in what potentiometers (he call resistors) are supply with 2,5 volts.

 

He remove a jumper (R13) that came from +2.5v source and in the point near potentiometer connections solder a cable with +5v, coming from USB cable (connection with PC).

 

In that way he are by-passing the reduction for +2.5v done by Saitek circuit (similar in Logitech). The Gnd connection remain the original of circuit.

 

https://sfw.so/1149033286-ustanovka-datchikov-holla-v-dzhoystik.html

 

In Russian, but Google Translator make "readable" in English.

 

In this "MOD" he are using the old potentiometer as axis for Neodymium magnet, and pot tabs as support for the hall.


Edited by Sokol1_br
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In this "how-to" the guy are connecting HALL sensor (SS495A1) in Saitek X-45, in what potentiometers (he call resistors) are supply with 2,5 volts.

 

He remove a jumper (R13) that came from +2.5v source and in the point near potentiometer connections solder a cable with +5v, coming from USB cable (connection with PC).

 

In that way he are by-passing the reduction for +2.5v done by Saitek circuit (similar in Logitech). The Gnd connection remain the original of circuit.

 

https://sfw.so/1149033286-ustanovka-datchikov-holla-v-dzhoystik.html

 

In Russian, but Google Translator make "readable" in English.

 

In this "MOD" he are using the old potentiometer as axis for Neodymium magnet, and pot tabs as support for the hall.

 

 

Sokol,

 

The circuit of the logitech is very small and it does not have a jumper , but thanks for the link i will go through it.

 

Right now i am more concerned about the magnets position because i know at least the hall effect is working with external voltage. but what the position of the magnets should be is a bit dicey

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Okay 2 things here what Sokol1_br is saying is to get the +5 volt from the USB supply of the USB into the joystick. I'll also have a look at the link to see what the difference is in the devices used.

 

The output voltage varies either up from (1/2 vdd) 2.5V or down from 2.5V depending on the polarity of the magnetic field north or south pole and the amount it varies depends on the strength of the magnetic field the transfer curve is shown in the data sheet.

 

So the magnets from say a HDD should be strong enough but it can be difficult to utilise both poles. For my cyclic I'm using small button magnets but I am still experimenting with how to derive the variable magnetic field one simple method is to arrange it so the magnet moves from about 10mm or so to right up to (almost touching) the body of the Hall effect device.

 

I also need to experiment with button magnets and I am thinking of arranging it so the magnet is close to the device and rotates on axis perpendicular such that in center both poles are close and as the magnet is rotated one or the other pole is bought closer to the device but I need to check this out as well there maybe problems with the transfer curve.

 

The biggest issue with this is that I may need to scale and level shift the signal to feed the control voltage into the existing controller either using analogue op amps or use maybe an AVR A to D the input signal modify the value then D to A for input to a controller. Of course all that could be incorporated into a single AVR but doing USB protocol in assembler might be a bit ambitious.

Control is an illusion which usually shatters at the least expected moment.

Gazelle Mini-gun version is endorphins with rotors. See above.

 

Currently rolling with a Asus Z390 Prime, 9600K, 32GB RAM, SSD, 2080Ti and Windows 10Pro, Rift CV1. bu0836x and Scratch Built Pedals, Collective and Cyclic.

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Sokol,

The circuit of the logitech is very small and it does not have a jumper , but thanks for the link i will go through it.

 

Yes, but you can use the same principle in Logitech (see bellow he say that did this based in a how to for Logitech) if find a way to isolate the +2.5 line from PCB - what is easy if cut the wire near PCB and supply that wire with the +5V from USB (from where this enter in controller PCB).

Anyway is just one more option to do this. :D


Edited by Sokol1_br
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Yes, but you can use the same principle in Logitech (see bellow he say that did this based in a how to for Logitech) if find a way to isolate the +2.5 line from PCB - what is easy if cut the wire near PCB and supply that wire with the +5V from USB (from where this enter in controller PCB).

Anyway is just one more option to do this. :D

 

Sokol,

 

I will look into it. THanks.

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Wing Commander SWAC

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