CH Pro-Throttle Z-Axis Jitter

[yxpoh]

Actually, I have been having problems with my CH pro throttle.

 

- Whether plug in directly to my computer or to my usb hub, there is some sort of jitter(I think that's what you call it) Z-axis.

- Only difference is how much and how bad.

- It's like when i pull my throttle up and down, the CH control manager shows that there are times when it jumps to a weird scale.

- like when I am actually decelerating, it suddenly jumps to max speed. and if I re-decelerate, by pushing the throttle up and pushing back down, it finally goes down correctly.

 

Is this a known problem for the throttle?

Anything I can do, as its out of warranty.

I am not really a mechanical guy but I can try to remedy it if there's any guide to it?

 

Hope you guys can advise me. Thanks.

 

EDIT: Just realize I could have drop my mail in CH forums, but thought there might people using it here as well.

[Bourrinopathe]

I don't own a CH Throttle Pro but as I was interested in buying one, I read a bunch of feedback and issues posts here and there.

 

There are several reports of spiking issues with the Z-axis (

). Afaik the CH Throttle Pro uses a linear potentiometer combined with a 8-bit resolution output/processing (=256 values, that's a rather low resolution).

 

You could probably try to clean up the potentiometer (with that kind of products, if the potentiometer is accessible) and then recalibrate the axis.

The very last option would be to replace the faulty potentiometer and CH should be able to help you.

 

Of course, it's just an assumption, so actual CH Throttle owners should be way more precise and useful ;)

One thing for sure: I'd suggest exclusively going for contact-less sensors in the future (Hall effect or magnetoresistive).

Edited April 21, 2016 by Bourrinopathe

[yxpoh]

you mean when replacing potentiometer or getting a new throttle :P

[Bourrinopathe]

I don't think there's any Hall sensor mod for the CH Throttle, so yes, it would be for a new throttle (and with a higher axis resolution) ;)

Not that the CH Throttle is a bad one. It's probably one of the most reliable offer available today. But the design is outdated (low resolution, no dual throttle, no rotaries, etc.).

 

If you manage to fix your issue you may very well use that throttle for years.

[yxpoh]

I guess, I will get myself the warthog throttle then. haha..

 

Cos I don't really have much confidence in fixing it up myself. well, I can just break it apart when my new one is here to see if I can do something about it then..

 

Thanks!

[Lensman]

Easy fix I bet.

I had the same problem with mine. Take off the base plate and tighten the spade terminals to the pot.

It's a well known problem with CH products where spade push fit connectors are used.

[yxpoh]

How do you tighten the spade terminals?

 

Actually after i open it up and adjust the wire to avoid the cables during the sliding of the throttle, and replace back, it does get more smoother, but i will monitor it for now to see if it still happens.

 

Thanks.

[rrohde]

I have the same issue with the CH Pro Throttle and would also appreciate a write up on how to "tighten the spade terminals to the pot". :thumbup:

[rrohde]

One thing for sure: I'd suggest exclusively going for contact-less sensors in the future (Hall effect or magnetoresistive).

 

Would be nice if there was a breakdown available as to who manufactures those type of throttles. It's not fun in having a highly precise stick, but a "shitty" throttle. ;)

[yxpoh]

Would be nice if there was a breakdown available as to who manufactures those type of throttles. It's not fun in having a highly precise stick, but a "shitty" throttle. ;)

 

For one, warthog Throttle by Thrustmaster, uses magnetic ones, at least that's what their page says.

[Sokol1_br]

Afaik the CH Throttle Pro uses a linear potentiometer combined with a 8-bit resolution output/processing (=256 values, that's a rather low resolution).

 

If by "linear" you mean sliding pot - what the throttle movement suggest - is not.

 

CH PRO Throttle use the same circular movement pot used in their joysticks, turned few degrees be a lever, like in rudder axis of their pedal.

 

What do in this jiter cases:

 

- open thee throttle (void warrant if applicable) and inspect the wires, they are very tiny and can be broken, but difficult to happen in throttle, more common in pedals.

 

- spray the pot inside - through a window in pins side with electronics cleanup spray or wash with isopropyl alcohol.

 

- "Advanced" cleanup: disassemble the pot case and wash all with isopropyl alcohol.

 

- press with a plier the tabs that plug in pot pins, or apply solder there - use heat dissipation pincer to avoid the risk to damage the pot trails with excessive heat.

 

If all fail, replace the throttle.

In the past they have a page for buy spare parts, but the new owner (APEN) disable this, so try the email. In CH Hangar - hardware are a email contact.

 

Bi-Tech HALL "pot" seem easy to fit in place or original pot (similar size of CH pot, crucial detail in pot replacement).

 

Will be need some axis adaptation...

 

As they cost 15$ and CH pot ~10$ is a interesting alternative.

 

Despite the low resolution (8 bits - 256 points) of CH USB controller in not the best option for use contactless sensor, at least this sensor is less susceptible to jitter.

Edited April 22, 2016 by Sokol1_br

[yxpoh]

OMG..

 

Thanks... Lol.. I wasn't expecting to learn such things in a combat flight simulator.

haha.. Guess I can think about it.. :D But I will most likely take some time to absorb..

 

wonder if there is any place i can learn how to get my own control panel :P

Edited April 22, 2016 by yxpoh

[Bourrinopathe]

Thanks a lot for all the info Sokol1_br! Especially for the internal view. I'm surprised the mechanism is so simple and using a classic potentiometer.

 

Apparently, we'll have to wait until May the 4th to know if Thrustmaster has something interesting (F/A-18 Hall effect throttle? ;) ).

[rrohde]

FYI: Newegg has a sale on the TM Warthog Throttle & Stick...

 

Funnily enough, I got the same deal yesterday on Craigslist - so I am now the owner on a new TM Throttle (which is extremely smooth and precise) and a TM stick, which I will adapt to work with my Black Mamba MkIII (to be honest, after trying that TM gimbal movement and feeling of it, I have to say it's not even close to being as smooth as the Mamba's).

Edited April 22, 2016 by rrohde

[AirSupport]

This thread is very helpful. Thank you very much! I have a CH Pro USB throttle I'm going to set up for A-10C. I wish I could afford that Warthog stick on Newegg, though. Man, that thing is amazing!

[ebabil]

i have also this problem. ch throttles are crappy.

[adese]

I have had the jitter issue as well. I've also had issues where the throttle will not go to full in-game despite being pushed all the way up IRL. I also have an issue where the mini stick loses its in-game max constraints (push all the way in one direction and in game it is as if only pushed 1/2 way.)

 

For each of the above, the thing I do to fix it is to put the devices in direct mode, calibrate the throttle, put back into mapped mode, and continue on. I have to do this fairly often but my problems are solved for a couple weeks.

[SVgamer72]

A CH user on reddit (Pure_Awesomeness) wrote a CMS script that averages the input from an analog axis and sends a jitter free signal to games.

 

Reddit Thread

 

CMS Files and instructions

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bxolnix8ukgRb1IyLVU3eGFTSXc

 

I tested the code with both my Pro Throttle and Throttle Quadrant, and it cleans up the jitter. Using the script I no longer see the controls "jiggle" in the cockpit and I can fine tune the percentages when changing pitch, rad, oil, mixture, etc in IL2:BoS.

Edited August 19, 2016 by SVgamer72

[ebabil]

I have jittering problem with my pro throttle from the begining.

When i opened my throttle and controlled its pot, i saw this problem;

As you may know, there are 3 cables on this pot. I touched everyone single by single and there were no problem with 2 cables. But, the yellow cable that is in the middle, has a serious problem, when i touched it, z axis started jitterring immediately, it happened only bare hands, with a metal or plastic object; no jitter. Then i touched 3 circles on the pot where cables assemble to the pot, and same, middle metal cicrle caused jitter.

 

Today i have replaced pot and tested again and i had exact same problem. What is wrong with it? is it a earthing problem?

[flexy123]

The script from reddit doesn't work properly, it moves the slider on its own +1/-1 at the end, depending on direction...so it just replaces the jitter with some other annoyance.

 

That being said, I opened my pot up and there is lots of "black gunk" which I have reason to believe is graphite lube or something else which is supposed to be there. I cannot see how cleaning the pot with alcohol can make things better. It might make things worse, MUCH worse if the black gunk inside the pot is supposed to be there! (I guess only CH Pro can answer in regards to the black stuff inside the pot)

 

I don't think the gunk *inside* the pot is from the vaseline where there is some outside the pot for lubricating the axis. There is just way too much inside for it being some lube accidentally having gotten inside. Also the black colour makes me guess this is graphite based or similar.

Edited May 22, 2017 by flexy123

[flexy123]

 

Also: In most pictures of the throttle [like in that one, not mine], the three tabs on the pot are facing upward, away from the slider. (Which seems to be the correct way how a pot is manufactured).

 

In my case, these three tabs were bent (or assembled to the part) the wrong way, facing down (!) with the tabs and then the wires awfully close to the slider. Of course this could spell troubles since the slider would constantly touch the wires and this can cause all kinds of problems of course.

Edited May 22, 2017 by flexy123