Yet another X55-Mod

[Tekkx]

Inspired by the courageous* work of [thread=145293]spaceraver[/thread] I wanted to put some creme on top of the cake and did the next step.

Thank You, spaceraver, for this really good work and sharing that with us :)

* Courageous because it's a big thing to mod a 200 bucks thing while loosing any warranty.

 

Spaceraver has described anything much better than I ever could. So I start after disassembling the stick and extending the 10-wire-cable.

 

After removing the YAW-Pot you'll loose this function, as spaceraver already observed.

 

So you have one poti left and my thinking was, something to do with.

 

X55 has different disadvantages against TM so (meanwhile I regret to buy this thing - I've seen a TM at Amaz.. at about 300,- €) I wanted to pimp it some.

 

First drawback: Single action Trigger

As you see at the pics I added a second microswitch.

First I removed the metal actuator from the original one and added a metal tongue to actuate the second micro switch.

For easier operation while fumbling (each time I tryout how it fits, the whole shit jumped out of the house) I put a drop of common glue on microswitch and brass tongue. Looks a little bit ugly.

Than I put a small piece of a PCB into the trigger (looks a kind of yellow at the pics). This now actuates the originial microswitch. After checking right size I fixed it with a drop of glue.

This actuator is to be seen on pics 1 and 2.

Than I glued a second microswitch.

Here is important - and a little bit tricky - to find the right position for timing of stage 1 and stage 2. That's why I used some sticky tape. So I can (re)move the switch some. Later I'll replace this tape by heavy duty glue - like JB-Weld e.g.

Second microswitch is wired as original Button C. This became obsolete (see Drawback 2)

Original Trigger is now Trigger second stage.

 

Second Drawback: No CMS-Switch.

I found a 5way Momentary Button with a PCB. To bring it to work, I removed the collar where Button C has been before

and placed the PCB with Button there.

For better matching I shaped it some with a file. Screws are used from the inside of the stick which fastened Button C before.

Later, if I became some more familiar with my brandnew Lathe, I'll add a good looking Knob.

 

So how to bring a 5way-Switch into business since you have just 3 wires to connect??? And software expects a poti-like signal?

In Mad-Catz Configuring Tool (terrible piece of software) you can each analog axis depart into ranges (german: Spielraum). Don't know how it is in english version of Mad-Catz.

So I designed a Resistor's Array (see an obsolete prototype at pic).

Each button shorts a different part of this array. So you get the same result as a slider of a poti. First it was some tricky, cause the slider is "open" if no button is pressed. This caused in "flickering" or dithering of the Z-Axis. So I added this 1M resistor as pull-down for the "slider".

Maybe, you'll find some better values. I did it with 0805 SMD parts (what I found in my boxes) and it's a very special work to replace these crumbs a few times :)

 

For easy assembling I put a 3pole 2.54mm connector between my Array and the Base. Take care at which length you put it! Mine is fairly misplaced so it is some inconvinient to stick it together :)

The stick extension (the primary goal of this operation) is a simple tube of grey vinyl - usually used as cable-tube for electrical installations. This tube has an outer diameter of about 19mm and fits perfectly into the grip and the base.

Take care if you turn the screws in the base's end: There is not much place between hub-flange and wires!

While assembling I gave the stick a few (sth between 20 and 30) degrees offset counter clockwise. So it is more convinient to use for people with lateral mounted arms.

Maybe someone knows the offset-value of the real bird's stick?

 

It looks now some like a rod-doll. But no one will see it ;) So don't tell it to your friends.

 

Third Drawback: Unreachable Trim-Knob (as Ralfidude reviewed. Thank you very much. As I watched this review it was too late... Maybe it helps others to make theire own decission.

[ame]

[/ame]

 

This problem I solved/attenuated using the Quick-and-dirty-Way: I took a very sharp side-cutting pliers and removed the four "pylons": Zack fertich!

That's all.

 

I haven't got a clue about how difficult it could be, to explain something in a foreign language. So I hope you understand what I mean and did.

 

If there are some questions left: Write it here. I'll try to answer ASAP.

Also give advice, if you want me to improve my "english" :)

Edited May 19, 2016 by Tekkx

[the_soupdragon]

Nice job.. I wish I could do this stuff or knew someone who did.

If I tried to do any of this I'd just end up with a broken Joystick.

 

I am still waiting for someone to make a X55 extension so I can buy one.

[Tekkx]

I asked at Mad-Catz - before I went for the screw-driver - for some spare parts.

My intention has been to build an extension without making any manipulations at the original hardware.

 

It took them 3 (three) weeks to tell me in just ONE f...'n line, that no spare parts available.

 

LOOSERS!!!!

 

@the_soupdragon:

...I wish I could do this stuff...

You mustn't think all tinkers and fumblers have been successful at the first time :)

It is a natural thing to break things and no problem if you learn sth. this way.

 

Few weeks ago I told my daughter (eight): The best way of sustainable learning is to f_ck up things. Really!!! :)

 

At the end it is NO Magic. Be brave, friends. Be brave! (Don't start with the pacemaker of your grandpa)

 

EDIT: After setup in MAD-CATZ electrically everything works fine.

It turned out, my used microswitch is quiet small. It is very tricky to actuate the Z-Axis without warping another direction too. I went already for a bigger one.

 

It was a gamble with the ranges till it worked reliable. Here my results.

My formely Rudder-(or Z-)Axis is now:

0...5% do nothing

5...13% CMS right

13...22% CMS Z-Axis (center)

22...45% CMS aft

45...83% CMS left

83...100% CMS forward

 

This values may differ with used Resistors depending on their tolerances and other influences.

Also you'll see, it's not linear. I suppose this is provoked by the 1M PullDown-Resistor.

 

I did not fly with this config yet. Maybe, I replace my linear-Array by other values to get a linear behavior at the end.

But this will become "something complete different" :)

 

Second Edit:

I replaced - thanks to the extension - the RED spring (I cropped it by about 3/4 coil thow it has already been the shortest one) with the (uncut) YELLOW spring. Feels great!

Edited May 18, 2016 by Tekkx

[Tekkx]

Yesterday I found some time to make a short turn. Just an aerodrome circuit :)

After about 5 months teetotalism...

 

The extension is worth every minute I spent with tinkering on :)

I landed the fully loaded bird velvety in spite of about 10 knots crosswind.

Before modding the stick was landing - even with an "empty" plane - a real challenge to me. One of about three touch-downs ended with a broken leg or at least a flat tyre.

So obstrudes the question: Why is to extend the stick not an available option? This could be easy money to MAD-CATZ.

 

 

BTW:

I found a strange behavior of my PC. It's not a special Gaming-/Sim-Computer. I use it also for unimportant things like work and communcation.

Due to the open-slider-problem the stick sends different commands to the PC while Stick is removed from the base. So I have to unplug it before removing the stick-extension. ("Remove before no-flight"-Flag is recommended :))

 

Also I replaced the very small 5-way-mom with a bigger one: That's it!

Will add a photograph tonight (after pretending work) .

Edited May 19, 2016 by Tekkx

[spaceraver]

I do like it, although I have since made a few more mods to my own stick. I have kept the C button as is and used the Twist Axis with a resistor array as you did only with a 3 way switch mounted on a piece of Alu that is extending from the C button placement, that gives me 2 more buttons in Saitek programming.

I might try something entirely different. Reusing the original pot with a custom tab sticking out so I have analog axis once again but placed where the thumb is, I just can't loose the C button as I use it for trim in my Helicopters..

And I have gotten my dirty hands on an old metal lathe so now I can finally slim down the stick extension or make one in Alu instead. Saving weight is always good.

Grüsse aus Dänemark. War in Erfurt letzter sommer als I ein bisschen schulung bei Enercon durchfürte. Schöner Stadt. Bin momentan nah Paderborn um WKR zu bauen.

[Tekkx]

Reusing the original pot with a custom tab sticking out so I have analog axis once again but placed where the thumb is, I just can't loose the C button as I use it for trim in my Helicopters...

Since I got the Spitfire I also think about, to remake the Twist-Pot to some kind of Brake-Lever.. (just think about).

 

It turned out, switching with the 5-Way-Button is fairly tricky. It's not easy to NOT press also in one direction if I want just press the center. Maybe I have to build a new switch on my own or I have to look for a complete different solution.

 

Yes. Erfurt looks some nice... to Tourists :) To live here becomes more and more difficult. Rental fees and the costs for Beer become more expensive (felt) day by day. Driving the bicicle in the city is quiet dangerous: lots of Tourists gambling around: "Oh! My dear look there!" "Oh! Have you already seen that?"... (don't watching the traffic)

Edited January 30, 2017 by Tekkx

[Echo179]

So, here's a question. Has anyone looked into slimming down the base of the stick? I believe the internals of the base are pretty small comparatively, so it seems like you could fit it all into a larger diameter PVC pipe. That would slim down the profile of the stick for using it between your legs, similar to the warthog base. Once I get back home in July, I may end up looking into it myself, but there seem to be some handy people here modding their sticks.

[Tekkx]

From my point of few that should be possible. The mechanical part is small enough for that. But there is also a small PCB inside what you'll have to find a new place for...

 

The more interesting question is: Is it worth to rape this stick and waste hours (and maybe money) to get nothing but an extemporized solution?

Meanwhile I don't think so. I encountered heavy problems to trim and fly unattended straight and level with the Spitfire. I blame it to low quality "indexers". Don't had a closer look on how it works. If there are Pots or Hall-Sensors (or anything comparable).

 

The Spit has no Autopilot. While flying the A-10 the problem isn't that important: Klick Autopilot and fly level or circles as long you'll need for fooling around with sensors or have a slash (or go for another beer).

 

Tweaking the X55 till it works as indended would cost at the end possibly more than a brandnew TM.

Looking backwards I regret my purchase. In the first days I was happy with that stick. Meanwhile - I don't know if it is worn out or if my claims are risen - I should have divert some money and should buy the "real" thing :)

 

But now I have to live with that. I think about, to clip stick's base to my chair's lower surface by means of a kind of support to bring it some deeper than seating and some forward of it. So the base is under my legs without making trouble there.

 

So is the intention - just thinking right now. :)

 

Fluctuating axes will stay anyway...

[Sokol1_br]

I blame it to low quality "indexers". Don't had a closer look on how it works. If there are Pots or Hall-Sensors (or anything comparable).

 

X-55 sensor for X, Y axis is the same Melexis 3D HALL sensor used in Warthog/T.1600M, and their gimbal follow the similar one spring "piston" design (and their characteristic "lock" in center position).

 

Make a PVC tube base for this gimbal is certainly viable, at least "for fun". :D

Edited February 24, 2017 by Sokol1_br

[Tekkx]

X-55 sensor for X, Y axis is the same Melexis 3D HALL sensor used in Warthog/T.1600M,...

 

Thank you for this valuable information.

It's maybe a little off topic: What's the presumptive source of my straight-flight-problem?

Edited February 25, 2017 by Tekkx