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F-14 Cockpit and instrument dimensions


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Can anyone crayon out how to wire up one of these piano switches for a non electrical engineer? This sucker has 12 pins per switch, 6 per side. I'm guessing it's designed to allow for different connector types, or to daisy chain across. I have an old arcade controller USB encoder I was going to use to at least start learning how this all works. The wires are the JST 2-pin on one end and flat blades on the other, but the blades are too wide to work with the terminals on the switches so I will probably have to remove the existing blades and replace with a single pin style connector, but I figured I'd ask so I can at least goof around with this 5-button piano switch until I can get a 3d printer and make buttons to go with it.

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VF-11 and VF-31 1988 [WIP]

VF-201 & VF-202 [WIP]

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2 hours ago, LanceCriminal86 said:

Can anyone crayon out how to wire up one of these piano switches for a non electrical engineer? This sucker has 12 pins per switch, 6 per side. I'm guessing it's designed to allow for different connector types, or to daisy chain across. I have an old arcade controller USB encoder I was going to use to at least start learning how this all works. The wires are the JST 2-pin on one end and flat blades on the other, but the blades are too wide to work with the terminals on the switches so I will probably have to remove the existing blades and replace with a single pin style connector, but I figured I'd ask so I can at least goof around with this 5-button piano switch until I can get a 3d printer and make buttons to go with it.

Sorry, don't have editing software on this machine, you should just need to use 1 row, the side by side poles should be pos and neg.  If you want a single button to do more than 1 thing, use a different row for each action. Easiest way in my limited opinion. No electrician magician here, just a Joe.

Punk

 

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17 hours ago, LanceCriminal86 said:

Can anyone crayon out how to wire up one of these piano switches for a non electrical engineer? This sucker has 12 pins per switch, 6 per side. I'm guessing it's designed to allow for different connector types, or to daisy chain across. I have an old arcade controller USB encoder I was going to use to at least start learning how this all works. The wires are the JST 2-pin on one end and flat blades on the other, but the blades are too wide to work with the terminals on the switches so I will probably have to remove the existing blades and replace with a single pin style connector, but I figured I'd ask so I can at least goof around with this 5-button piano switch until I can get a 3d printer and make buttons to go with it.


image.png
The pins are electrically connected as represented by the colors.
Center pins are ground.
Down switch connects green to ground.
Up switch connects blue to ground.

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vf31-cat.jpg

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1 hour ago, VF2 Subsonic said:


image.png
The pins are electrically connected as represented by the colors.
Center pins are ground.
Down switch connects green to ground.
Up switch connects blue to ground.

 

Ahhh, the little USB board I have is only a 2-pin cable per slot so I'm guessing it's set up for on/off push buttons. Looks like it will have to be relegated to simple push buttons instead, maybe some Jester commands or something. Or is it that each switch position basically needs to use two of the button ports on the controller board, one for "on" and the other for "off"? So one set of blue white on the top and middle of the left bank, and a set on the middle and bottom on the right bank?

 

What boards would you guys suggest for getting this going that can support on-off-on switches, piano switches, momentaries, etc?

Heatblur Rivet Counting Squad™

 

VF-11 and VF-31 1988 [WIP]

VF-201 & VF-202 [WIP]

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On 6/23/2021 at 12:23 PM, LanceCriminal86 said:

 

Ahhh, the little USB board I have is only a 2-pin cable per slot so I'm guessing it's set up for on/off push buttons. Looks like it will have to be relegated to simple push buttons instead, maybe some Jester commands or something. Or is it that each switch position basically needs to use two of the button ports on the controller board, one for "on" and the other for "off"? So one set of blue white on the top and middle of the left bank, and a set on the middle and bottom on the right bank?

 

What boards would you guys suggest for getting this going that can support on-off-on switches, piano switches, momentaries, etc?

recommend bodnar boards

VF-31 Tomcatters

vf31-cat.jpg

http://www.csg-1.com/ | Discord

 

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Bodnar look better for plug and play or if you want some of their proprietary switches like the dual rotary. Arduino if you don't mind programming or want to do matrices for lots of controls.

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On 6/17/2021 at 4:22 AM, Uxi said:

Was able to score a TACAN panel for not TOO expensive of evilbay so gotta add that to the list. 

 

Screenshot_20210616-202017_eBay.jpg

Ahhhh! now that's something special! I have tacans in my notification list on evilbay but so far i've not seen the ARN 84. There was one from a harrier that i was watching, but it was £75 and i couldnt really justify it. i'd have been to pay that if it was the right one though.

      Looks like you're making good progress with the switches too gents. took me absolutely ages to find those interlocks! Cant remember if i mentioned that the laser cutter arrived, i've tinkered and it now has air assist. just need to get the garden finished then the loft room tidied and i might be able to start playing again!

kind regards

james

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 6/22/2021 at 10:45 PM, LanceCriminal86 said:

Can anyone crayon out how to wire up one of these piano switches for a non electrical engineer? This sucker has 12 pins per switch, 6 per side. I'm guessing it's designed to allow for different connector types, or to daisy chain across. I have an old arcade controller USB encoder I was going to use to at least start learning how this all works. The wires are the JST 2-pin on one end and flat blades on the other, but the blades are too wide to work with the terminals on the switches so I will probably have to remove the existing blades and replace with a single pin style connector, but I figured I'd ask so I can at least goof around with this 5-button piano switch until I can get a 3d printer and make buttons to go with it.

I put a multimeter on the ones I got and found that the pins weren't wired as above. The rows of pins were connected one above the other so I'll be connecting the bottom left and the one above it. It's worth getting a cheap multimeter to check things out. 

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Morning/afternoon Gents. 

   Does anyone have any ideas about making the ACM switch work in the cockpit the way it should in the SIM? I'm assuming that it would involve at least a relay and possibly an arduino. I've been searching on YouTube for ideas but so far came up with nothing. Will probably ask the father in law for some advice as he was an electrician, but I'm not sure if that extends to electronics.... If I do find anything I'll be sure to stick in here, in the meantime if anyone else has any ideas they'd be appreciated. Not anywhere near starting a build yet, but it was something I was pondering. 

Regards

James

 

 

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39 minutes ago, Woody81 said:

Morning/afternoon Gents. 

   Does anyone have any ideas about making the ACM switch work in the cockpit the way it should in the SIM? I'm assuming that it would involve at least a relay and possibly an arduino. I've been searching on YouTube for ideas but so far came up with nothing. Will probably ask the father in law for some advice as he was an electrician, but I'm not sure if that extends to electronics.... If I do find anything I'll be sure to stick in here, in the meantime if anyone else has any ideas they'd be appreciated. Not anywhere near starting a build yet, but it was something I was pondering. 

Regards

James

 

 

G'day mate, do you mean that when you flick it up it flicks up in SIM? I can show you how I did mine, though she's a bit of an ad hoc. 

"I'm just a dude, playing a dude, disguised as another dude."

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I did mine by using a spring return dual pole switch and setting it up so when the cover is down the switch is held in the odd position and when the cover is lifted up it springs up into the on position, then I put a push button below it to act as the acm jet button

Tomcat, Tomcat über allen

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On 7/30/2021 at 3:20 PM, Gunslinger22 said:

G'day mate, do you mean that when you flick it up it flicks up in SIM? I can show you how I did mine, though she's a bit of an ad hoc. 

 

 

Good evening from England!

It wasn't so much the switch itself, more that when you flick the ACM switch it changes the Gun Rate to high, Missile prep to on and S/W cool to on all at the same time. I was just thinking that a relay might be able to be used to activate the 3 other switches when flicking the ACM to on. 

 

 

23 hours ago, PSYKOnz said:

I did mine by using a spring return dual pole switch and setting it up so when the cover is down the switch is held in the odd position and when the cover is lifted up it springs up into the on position, then I put a push button below it to act as the acm jet button

 

Yes, this is a similar idea to what I was thinking. To have an on/off/momentary on switch so that the cover holds it down when not in use, then lifting the cover would register as a button press in DCS, and then flicking the switch up would activate the ACM mode. I might be thinking of it the wrong way, it's been a little while since I was in the F-14. Currently very uncomfortable sitting on the floor with the flight stick between my legs! Must get a move on with the loft! 

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 I have not gotten around to any of this yet myself either, but some of the ideas I have come across for switch types include the use of the momentary switch as mentioned, Using a push button (think refrigerator light switch) so when the cover is lifted the switch activates, and the use of reed switches with magnets embedded in the switch cover. How many you fit into the area might limit how many functions. An Arduino and DCS Bios might be used, not sure how much of the software has been worked out though for the F-14. I have not used switch programs like RS Mapper in a while and unsure whether or not those programs are flexible enough to do what you are looking to do. Perhaps? Best of luck and please share what you learn.

 

Salute,

Punk

 

Punk

 

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Gents,

 

Sorry this has taken so long to upload, life as always is keeping me busy.

 

I'll probably expand this post later with some more details on how to build to CNC/Jigsaw the parts as I get further along with my own pit.

 

It's great to see the progress everyone is making on their own pits. They are all awesome.  

 

Cheers,

Mumbles

F-14A-B Plans Aug 21.png

F-14A-B GRU-7A Aug 21 Plans Draft.zip

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On 8/8/2021 at 1:43 PM, AusMumbles said:

Gents,

 

Sorry this has taken so long to upload, life as always is keeping me busy.

 

I'll probably expand this post later with some more details on how to build to CNC/Jigsaw the parts as I get further along with my own pit.

 

It's great to see the progress everyone is making on their own pits. They are all awesome.  

 

Cheers,

Mumbles

F-14A-B Plans Aug 21.png

F-14A-B GRU-7A Aug 21 Plans Draft.zip 2.27 MB · 11 downloads

 

Ah mate that's amazing! The work you lads have put into this is unreal.

     I've just ordered some acrylic sheets to make my first panels.  They're turning up tomorrow, but I'm away for work so will have to wait until the weekend to play! I've designed my AFCS panel so that will probably be the first one I make. I'll post some pictures once it's complete. Hope everyone is well. Cheers 

James

 

 

 

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That looks amazing. Gotta paint your throttles white, though. 😄

 

Seriously though how are you making these? Laser cutter? Looks too smooth to be 3d printed...

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1 hour ago, Uxi said:

That looks amazing. Gotta paint your throttles white, though. 😄

 

Seriously though how are you making these? Laser cutter? Looks too smooth to be 3d printed...

I must admit seeing all these 3D printed and laser cut panels it’s making want to entirely re-do my pit to get to the quality of these guys, seems like the hammer and saw just isn’t up to it anymore haha! 

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"I'm just a dude, playing a dude, disguised as another dude."

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8 hours ago, Uxi said:

That looks amazing. Gotta paint your throttles white, though. 😄

 

Seriously though how are you making these? Laser cutter? Looks too smooth to be 3d printed...

Lol! I’ve actually cut some white sticker vinyl to wrap them when I get a chance. Yeah I’m using a K40 laser cutter with black on white two color acrylic. I also have a Ender V2 3D printer for some stuff.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Good Evening Gents,

 

HitmanAlpha1, love the pannels and setup so far mate. Looks amazing. 

I'd love to get my hands on some of your panel design files later.

 

Figured I should chuck an update as it's been a while.

My mates got a fairly large 3d printer and has been helping me out over the last few weeks testing and printing parts.

The front instrument uppers have been modelled and the right printed, really happy with the part. 

I've been working on models for the instrument bezels, VDI and I'll probably start the HSD next weekend. 

At this stage the parts are going to be static only as the pit should primary run VR. However all of the of parts are being designed with ample room if someone wants to try and cram electronics in to make them work.

 

Once I've got the parts printed and idiot checked I'll post them up here for abuse.

 

Cheers,

Mumbles. 

Inst Bezels.jpg

20210907_111748.jpg

VDI.jpg


Edited by AusMumbles
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13 hours ago, AusMumbles said:

Evening,

 

Couple of more WIP pics of 3d printed bits and bobs. 

 

I've pretty much committed to buying a laser cutter as I want to back light these the panels now. 

 

Cheers,

Mumbles

 

 

Right Inst Frame Test.jpg

reworked R-Inst Shell.jpg

Looks bloody unreal mate, I’m really starting to feel obsolete with my attempts, certainly can’t compete against a computer when it comes to this accuracy! 

"I'm just a dude, playing a dude, disguised as another dude."

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