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Thrustmaster Warthog noob


callum112233

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For the A-10C the warthog is plug and play. You don't need target or anything. The only thing you will want to change is the trim on the stick instead of view... In the in game settings.

PC Specs / Hardware: MSI z370 Gaming Plus Mainboard, Intel 8700k @ 5GHz, MSI Sea Hawk 2080 Ti @ 2100MHz, 32GB 3200 MHz DDR4 RAM

Displays: Philips BDM4065UC 60Hz 4K UHD Screen, Pimax 8KX

Controllers / Peripherals: VPC MongoosT-50, Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS, modded MS FFB2/CH Combatstick, MFG Crosswind Pedals, Gametrix JetSeat

OS: Windows 10 Home Creator's Update

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Hey Callum,

 

Hope you enjoy the HOTAS Warthog, its truly an amazing piece of equipment. Let me know by PM or other contact if you need help or have questions. :)

Come join a passionate community of flight simmers everyday, live at

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Callum, a good purchase or gift you have there; makes the SIM so much more enjoyable and realistic.

 

As Boris mentioned, you will want to to use the joystick HAT for Trim. If you have a TrackIR no need to use the keyboard for your views. If you have a TrackIR here's a couple other things you may want to consider;

 

a) I use the Joystick Paddle Switch (big pinky switch) for centering the TrackIR

b) use the Throttle Friction Control on the right side next to the APU On/Off as a Zoom view in the Game Settings.

 

I'm certainly no pro at this but I've basically eliminated all regular keyboard input by using the HOTAS combined with a Razer Orbweaver 20key keypad.

 

Enjoy

Asus B85 Pro Gamer - 32GB - Intel® Core i5-4460 CPU - SanDisk SDSSDXPS480G -Windows 10 Pro 64-bit - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070

TrackIR5 - TM Warthog HOTAS Stick & Throttle - TM Cougar MFCDs - TM TPR Rudder Pedals - Razer Orbweaver - SoundBlasterX G5 DAC

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hey man,

im using tm warthog and tflight rudder pedals. One thing you need to check out is the axis commands section inside controls. i dont know if its only happened to me but after i plugged in my equipment dcs tried to assign pitch roll rudder and throttle axises to every equipment. so when i put in some right rudder at the same time it input right roll and right throttle. just check them out if u experience something weird.

 

Edit: im not sure if you are aware of it or not but i wasnt until someone said it to me. you can lift up your throttle and pull them back for shutting down the engine and u can lift them up push them forward for starting the engine.


Edited by kylekatarn720
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Thanks everyone for the kind replies.

 

I haven't got trackIR yet so not sure what I will use to control my views.

 

I'll re-play an A10 tutorial mission today and see how I get on with all the buttons on the thrustmaster. Fingers crossed, everything will be fine.

 

It's kinda blowing my mind, the amount of buttons on this thing.

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For the A-10C the warthog is plug and play. You don't need target or anything. The only thing you will want to change is the trim on the stick instead of view... In the in game settings.

I don't have TrackIR either so what I do is use trimmer on stick for views and add trimming function with a modifier(keybd right control) since you look around more often than trim.

 

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Does anyone have any curves or nullzones set up with this stick?

 

Innocent questions like that are known to have started religious wars that lasted weeks if not months on this forum, so let me try to choose my words wisely. :D

 

With my Warthog, I see no need for a center deadzone. I perceive no unwanted inputs around the center at all. Some people suggest a very small deadzone; if you feel like the slightest touch on the stick gives unwanted input, such a deadzone might be the way to go.

 

Positive curves will make the stick less sensitive near the center and more sensitive near the outer positions. Many players argue that curves will make you get used to an artificial feeling and will make it very difficult to fine control any aircraft.

Then again, most real aircraft have a stick that extends into the floor and is thus much easier to fine control than the Warthog.

 

Personally, I found the Ka-50 and the A-10C to be almost uncontrollable without a curve, and started with pretty high values for both pitch and roll. Over time, I reduced the curves until I found a value that I felt very comfortable with. I now use the same curve value for all modules. And I won't say what value that is (but you'll find me talk about it elsewhere if you absolutely want to know) - if you want to use a curve, find a value that suits your needs. :)

 

The ultimate solution is to extend the stick. I haven't done that yet, but if I do, I'm certain I'll set the curves to 0 because the stick will feel like a real one at that point, and so I won't need the curves any longer. Extensions can be purchased from various manufacturers, or can be built with relatively cheap materials from a do-it-yourself-store and an extension cable. There's tons of info and inspiration in the hardware subforum.

 

Ultimately, though, there's no right or wrong here. If it feels good for you and you think you have good control over your aircraft, then that setting is good. :thumbup:

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Innocent questions like that are known to have started religious wars that lasted weeks if not months on this forum, so let me try to choose my words wisely. :D

 

With my Warthog, I see no need for a center deadzone. I perceive no unwanted inputs around the center at all. Some people suggest a very small deadzone; if you feel like the slightest touch on the stick gives unwanted input, such a deadzone might be the way to go.

 

Positive curves will make the stick less sensitive near the center and more sensitive near the outer positions. Many players argue that curves will make you get used to an artificial feeling and will make it very difficult to fine control any aircraft.

Then again, most real aircraft have a stick that extends into the floor and is thus much easier to fine control than the Warthog.

 

Personally, I found the Ka-50 and the A-10C to be almost uncontrollable without a curve, and started with pretty high values for both pitch and roll. Over time, I reduced the curves until I found a value that I felt very comfortable with. I now use the same curve value for all modules. And I won't say what value that is (but you'll find me talk about it elsewhere if you absolutely want to know) - if you want to use a curve, find a value that suits your needs. :)

 

The ultimate solution is to extend the stick. I haven't done that yet, but if I do, I'm certain I'll set the curves to 0 because the stick will feel like a real one at that point, and so I won't need the curves any longer. Extensions can be purchased from various manufacturers, or can be built with relatively cheap materials from a do-it-yourself-store and an extension cable. There's tons of info and inspiration in the hardware subforum.

 

Ultimately, though, there's no right or wrong here. If it feels good for you and you think you have good control over your aircraft, then that setting is good. :thumbup:

 

Thanks for the reply.

 

Yeh, I get quite a bit of movement when I move the stick slightly away from the center so a bit of a curve might be good for me.

 

The stick extension sounds interesting. I'll have a search on google.

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Callum, a good purchase or gift you have there; makes the SIM so much more enjoyable and realistic.

 

As Boris mentioned, you will want to to use the joystick HAT for Trim. If you have a TrackIR no need to use the keyboard for your views. If you have a TrackIR here's a couple other things you may want to consider;

 

a) I use the Joystick Paddle Switch (big pinky switch) for centering the TrackIR

b) use the Throttle Friction Control on the right side next to the APU On/Off as a Zoom view in the Game Settings.

 

I'm certainly no pro at this but I've basically eliminated all regular keyboard input by using the HOTAS combined with a Razer Orbweaver 20key keypad.

 

Enjoy

 

I use that paddle lever for zoom view where ever and when ever I can. It's great

I9 9900k @ 5ghz water cooled, 32gb ram, GTX 2080ti, 1tb M.2, 2tb hdd, 1000 watt psu TrackIR 5, TM Warthog Stick and Throttle, CH Pedals

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  • 5 months later...
Hi all. Anyone point me in the right direction of where to 'import' a good HOTAS profile for the A10C

 

It should all work as in the real A-10 by default, with no need for profiles or the Target software. All you need to do is make sure all the control axis are bound properly and set the curves to how you want them. Then maybe set the Vr zoom to the joystick paddle.

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It should all work as in the real A-10 by default, with no need for profiles or the Target software. All you need to do is make sure all the control axis are bound properly and set the curves to how you want them. Then maybe set the Vr zoom to the joystick paddle.

 

 

 

ummm..

 

VR zoom??

 

 

Please share which default key that is so I can map it?!

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ummm..

 

VR zoom??

 

 

Please share which default key that is so I can map it?!

 

Not sure what the default is, but go to controls, then open the aircraft menu on the top left and scroll down to UI Layer, and you'll find the VR UI Zoom option in there. I've mapped it to the paddle on the stick.

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Simple AB Mod

 

Hey guys if you are like me and use your warthog stick for jets other than the a-10 the AB mod really makes it more realistic. The afterburner detent requires lifting up the throttle and pushing it into the AB, not a lot of fun when you need that boost NOW. From what i understand, with enough force you are able to push your way into the AB in most real fighters. I did the AB push through mod by filing away a small amount from the back of the AB detent, creating a smooth slope. This gives me MIL power when im right against the block and with a bit more force 'bumps' me nicely into the juicy afterburner. I have heard a lot of people having problems with getting the AB to synchronize correctly with the throttle position but i have been lucky... mine work quite precisely and always gives me AB just as i bump over the detent. hope you guys try it out.

AB.jpg.e0fb854f0f58a687bac897c5c01b00d3.jpg

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