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Improve your X52 precision with this MOD


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This MOD is hardly extensive, but whats your purpose for your comments?^^^^

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My PC specs below:

Case: Corsair 400C

PSU: SEASONIC SS-760XP2 760W Platinum

CPU: AMD RYZEN 3900X (12C/24T)

RAM: 32 GB 4266Mhz (two 2x8 kits) of trident Z RGB @3600Mhz CL 14 CR=1T

MOBO: ASUS CROSSHAIR HERO VI AM4

GFX: GTX 1080Ti MSI Gaming X

Cooler: NXZT Kraken X62 280mm AIO

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB M.2+6GB WD 6Gb red

HOTAS: Thrustmaster Warthog + CH pro pedals

Monitor: Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD Freesync HDR400 1440P

 

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This MOD is hardly extensive, but whats your purpose for your comments?

 

Well it seems odd that you'd have to really mod most things. Sure there's tweaks but overall joysticks should (at least Saitek maybe) need little work in order to be "right" you know? Nothings perfect, but having to add this, that, shouldn't really be necessary for a stick. But then again, the mod looks interesting, since I did what SuperKungFu did (sorta, used some old rolled up unit patches and tape) to add tension, which helped a little bit, but other than that, was still experiencing issues, so I had to go old skool.

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I would be forced to make a much bigger MOD for your stick, just look how many buttons it has :P

 

There isnt a perfect stick but if you want the best man/machine interface youll hardly be content with any stick or with what some other guys imagination materialized his ideas to it, you can improve using your imagination. I would be handicaped with anything less than a X52.

 

I flew LOMAC with a Thrustmaster Afterburner II's for 2 years...oh boy was I limited! It was C.R.A.P.

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My PC specs below:

Case: Corsair 400C

PSU: SEASONIC SS-760XP2 760W Platinum

CPU: AMD RYZEN 3900X (12C/24T)

RAM: 32 GB 4266Mhz (two 2x8 kits) of trident Z RGB @3600Mhz CL 14 CR=1T

MOBO: ASUS CROSSHAIR HERO VI AM4

GFX: GTX 1080Ti MSI Gaming X

Cooler: NXZT Kraken X62 280mm AIO

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB M.2+6GB WD 6Gb red

HOTAS: Thrustmaster Warthog + CH pro pedals

Monitor: Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD Freesync HDR400 1440P

 

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These photos are only for compare purpouses between X52 a Cyborg Evo (that have a lot of problems also).

 

f1a90fd1c895211dabd76f5c07165f450_large.jpg

 

5df4318084d76eae656179c19629821b0_large.jpg

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Well Pilot, nice MOD, but I don't get it.

 

What exactly in this MOD cuases the improvement? Is see the problem, and I see the result. But what is it that cuases the diferrence? In other words... What is the "most obvious design simplification" as you have mentioned first hand.

 

And why isn't Saitek just improving their drivers to compensate the "diamond but circle" issue. Could be easily done with teh driver IMHO...

Windows 10, I7 8700k@5,15GHz, 32GB Ram, GTX1080, HOTAS Warthog, Oculus Rift CV1, Obutto R3volution, Buttkicker



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Well Pilot, nice MOD, but I don't get it.

 

What exactly in this MOD cuases the improvement? Is see the problem, and I see the result. But what is it that cuases the diferrence? In other words... What is the "most obvious design simplification" as you have mentioned first hand.

 

And why isn't Saitek just improving their drivers to compensate the "diamond but circle" issue. Could be easily done with teh driver IMHO...

 

They could but they didnt.

 

The simplification consists in the removal of the magnets holder wich would move on the sprocket, from one side to the other of the sensor as you moved the stick. My MOD eleminates this and you simply put one magnet glued on the sproket. This alone is an advantage as you get less moving parts inside wearing out.

 

The result is when you add roll to pitch, you will get more controll authority than the stick in its original condition, i.e. the diamond on the picture VS the circle OF the MOD. Another way to look at it is, that the movment of your stick is more faithfully recreated by your stick's imput within the game.

 

HAve you ever felt that in a high AOA turn your roll is too slow? This MOD helps with this. Not because your bending your aircraft perfomance but because the stick impaired with the ammount of roll you could do with pitch+roll. You will feel more confort in controling your aircraft and the responses are more predictable.

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[sigpic]http://forums.eagle.ru/signaturepics/sigpic4448_29.gif[/sigpic]

My PC specs below:

Case: Corsair 400C

PSU: SEASONIC SS-760XP2 760W Platinum

CPU: AMD RYZEN 3900X (12C/24T)

RAM: 32 GB 4266Mhz (two 2x8 kits) of trident Z RGB @3600Mhz CL 14 CR=1T

MOBO: ASUS CROSSHAIR HERO VI AM4

GFX: GTX 1080Ti MSI Gaming X

Cooler: NXZT Kraken X62 280mm AIO

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB M.2+6GB WD 6Gb red

HOTAS: Thrustmaster Warthog + CH pro pedals

Monitor: Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD Freesync HDR400 1440P

 

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They could but they didnt.

 

The simplification consists in the removal of the magnets holder wich would move on the sprocket, from one side to the other of the sensor as you moved the stick. My MOD eleminates this and you simply put one magnet glued on the sproket. This alone is an advantage as you get less moving parts inside wearing out.

 

The result is when you add roll to pitch, you will get more controll authority than the stick in its original condition, i.e. the diamond on the picture VS the circle OF the MOD. Another way to look at it is, that the movment of your stick is more faithfully recreated by your stick's imput within the game.

 

HAve you ever felt that in a high AOA turn your roll is too slow? This MOD helps with this. Not because your bending your aircraft perfomance but because the stick impaired with the ammount of roll you could do with pitch+roll. You will feel more confort in controling your aircraft and the responses are more predictable.

 

Tnx, now I understand.


Edited by JaBoG32_Prinzartus

Windows 10, I7 8700k@5,15GHz, 32GB Ram, GTX1080, HOTAS Warthog, Oculus Rift CV1, Obutto R3volution, Buttkicker



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Thanks for sharing this tip, tried it and am very pleased with the results, it feels a lot more responsive to me, i used the double sided tape method and fitted the magnets wrong way round first try and had reversed axis's :doh:

 

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

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Does anyone know the exact dimension for the X-52 spring. I was looking to get a stronger replacement.

 

Use the fix I gave on page 2

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My PC specs below:

Case: Corsair 400C

PSU: SEASONIC SS-760XP2 760W Platinum

CPU: AMD RYZEN 3900X (12C/24T)

RAM: 32 GB 4266Mhz (two 2x8 kits) of trident Z RGB @3600Mhz CL 14 CR=1T

MOBO: ASUS CROSSHAIR HERO VI AM4

GFX: GTX 1080Ti MSI Gaming X

Cooler: NXZT Kraken X62 280mm AIO

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB M.2+6GB WD 6Gb red

HOTAS: Thrustmaster Warthog + CH pro pedals

Monitor: Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD Freesync HDR400 1440P

 

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Everytime I read through this I get more and more tempted to do it with my X52. And I'll do it eventually :pilotfly:

Rep inbound!

 

Do it only if you are certain you are handy with manual work. You will require to use double tape like AS and superkungfu did or you will have to work arround with the screw method. You need to find the right screws or widen the hole. Mine didnt quite fit at first and i had to apply a pressure on it to widen for the screws I had.

[sigpic]http://forums.eagle.ru/signaturepics/sigpic4448_29.gif[/sigpic]

My PC specs below:

Case: Corsair 400C

PSU: SEASONIC SS-760XP2 760W Platinum

CPU: AMD RYZEN 3900X (12C/24T)

RAM: 32 GB 4266Mhz (two 2x8 kits) of trident Z RGB @3600Mhz CL 14 CR=1T

MOBO: ASUS CROSSHAIR HERO VI AM4

GFX: GTX 1080Ti MSI Gaming X

Cooler: NXZT Kraken X62 280mm AIO

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB M.2+6GB WD 6Gb red

HOTAS: Thrustmaster Warthog + CH pro pedals

Monitor: Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD Freesync HDR400 1440P

 

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I have done it. Even without double sided tape or fitting screw or glue. I did it in MacGyver style, usingtwo paper clips.

:joystick::pilotfly:

 

Picture shows already attached paper clip (fixed with the sprocket's screw) and the attached magnets.

 

If your axis is inverted, just turn the araound. The magnets are not clued to anything, they are just held by magnetic force on the paper clip. So it is easy to adjust the magnet's position any time, very easily.

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Windows 10, I7 8700k@5,15GHz, 32GB Ram, GTX1080, HOTAS Warthog, Oculus Rift CV1, Obutto R3volution, Buttkicker



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I have done it. Even without double sided tape or fitting screw or glue. I did it in MacGyver style, usingtwo paper clips.

:joystick::pilotfly:

 

Picture shows already attached paper clip (fixed with the sprocket's screw) and the attached magnets.

 

If your axis is inverted, just turn the araound. The magnets are not clued to anything, they are just held by magnetic force on the paper clip. So it is easy to adjust the magnet's position any time, very easily.

LOL nice... ^^^^ USe glue to prevent them from falling off with G shock. If you can apply the glue on the clip only.

 

no i already did that a long time ago, but its still not good enough. I want a stronger stiffer stick, and going to replace the spring as a whole.

 

I advise you against it. The centering cup wasnt designed for the kind of stresses your aiming at. You will wear it off. The stuff I showed you was pretty conservative. Anything above might cripple your stick.

[sigpic]http://forums.eagle.ru/signaturepics/sigpic4448_29.gif[/sigpic]

My PC specs below:

Case: Corsair 400C

PSU: SEASONIC SS-760XP2 760W Platinum

CPU: AMD RYZEN 3900X (12C/24T)

RAM: 32 GB 4266Mhz (two 2x8 kits) of trident Z RGB @3600Mhz CL 14 CR=1T

MOBO: ASUS CROSSHAIR HERO VI AM4

GFX: GTX 1080Ti MSI Gaming X

Cooler: NXZT Kraken X62 280mm AIO

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB M.2+6GB WD 6Gb red

HOTAS: Thrustmaster Warthog + CH pro pedals

Monitor: Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD Freesync HDR400 1440P

 

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I have done it. Even without double sided tape or fitting screw or glue. I did it in MacGyver style, usingtwo paper clips.

:joystick::pilotfly:

 

Picture shows already attached paper clip (fixed with the sprocket's screw) and the attached magnets.

 

If your axis is inverted, just turn the araound. The magnets are not clued to anything, they are just held by magnetic force on the paper clip. So it is easy to adjust the magnet's position any time, very easily.

 

now this is really intelligent :smartass:

 

Ok guys after making LOoooooooooonG TESTs in gunzo and aerobatic i can say this:

 

Modding makes it really really precise and sensitive so it becomes hard to pull without banking by accident ( if u fly with no dead and no curve like me). If u are using curves for aerobatic it will be very nice for sure (frazer u should try it :) )

 

This mechanical not responding natural lag (like in non-fly by wire planes) of un-modded feels at the end better in all situations but the CLIPPING ONE BUTTON trick is still a must cuz it only brings the pitch working same precicsion as roll.

And if u still want to bank faster u can increase joyrange from 400 to 4000.

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has anyone did this mod and manage to take better pics? I would like to do it to but the original pics are not that clear.

 

It will become clear, if you open the X52, and just have a look at its guts. Then compare what you see with the pictures, it will likely become clear then.


Edited by JaBoG32_Prinzartus

Windows 10, I7 8700k@5,15GHz, 32GB Ram, GTX1080, HOTAS Warthog, Oculus Rift CV1, Obutto R3volution, Buttkicker



[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] ЯБоГ32_Принз





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Just a note here: If your stick is working properly, if your confortable with it, if its new, and you are not at home with this kind of manual work, better leave it alone. This is for experienced people who need every bit of controlobability to win in a dogfight. You wont benifit much in a BVR fight in a normal server Anyway.

 

I recommend this only to die hard Gun competitors who have experience in MOD'ing stuff.

 

In my case I did it because my stick started to have other problems that I solved partialy with this MOD.

[sigpic]http://forums.eagle.ru/signaturepics/sigpic4448_29.gif[/sigpic]

My PC specs below:

Case: Corsair 400C

PSU: SEASONIC SS-760XP2 760W Platinum

CPU: AMD RYZEN 3900X (12C/24T)

RAM: 32 GB 4266Mhz (two 2x8 kits) of trident Z RGB @3600Mhz CL 14 CR=1T

MOBO: ASUS CROSSHAIR HERO VI AM4

GFX: GTX 1080Ti MSI Gaming X

Cooler: NXZT Kraken X62 280mm AIO

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB M.2+6GB WD 6Gb red

HOTAS: Thrustmaster Warthog + CH pro pedals

Monitor: Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD Freesync HDR400 1440P

 

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yeah sometimes they use weaked out magnest so the bandwith is not in full funcition...maybe cuz of laying wrong around too much..

 

what also works pretty well, if u have 4 other equal magnets - u can clip them on the slider-bar outside the others...so u have 4 magnets per bar...

 

i did that and it is also nice thing

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where you get all those magnets from?

[sigpic]http://forums.eagle.ru/signaturepics/sigpic4448_29.gif[/sigpic]

My PC specs below:

Case: Corsair 400C

PSU: SEASONIC SS-760XP2 760W Platinum

CPU: AMD RYZEN 3900X (12C/24T)

RAM: 32 GB 4266Mhz (two 2x8 kits) of trident Z RGB @3600Mhz CL 14 CR=1T

MOBO: ASUS CROSSHAIR HERO VI AM4

GFX: GTX 1080Ti MSI Gaming X

Cooler: NXZT Kraken X62 280mm AIO

Storage: Samsung 960 EVO 1TB M.2+6GB WD 6Gb red

HOTAS: Thrustmaster Warthog + CH pro pedals

Monitor: Gigabyte AORUS AD27QD Freesync HDR400 1440P

 

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where you get all those magnets from?

 

from 2 other x52s i killed playing around like u ...hehe

 

ok another way is to fix a cent (mangnetic eurocent) with glue on ground and put and adjust the magnets on the cent...i tried and u have bout 0.5-1mm still to the sensor

 

the best way till yet to keep distance to sensor small but adjustability and stabillity high

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Welll those are very nice mod's!

But, is the X52PRO exactly the same in response as the (normal)X52?

They claim (Saitek) that it has a more real life feeling.

Has anyone tried it yet?

Intel Core i5-9600K, Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO, 16GB Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro, Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 WINDFORCE 8G

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Hi guys,

just did a quick readthrough and this seems to be a very good found :thumbup: I've opened the stick quite a few times to fix things but I never cameup with this idea, I guess you must be smart for this (I could be a Saitek Engeneer :D )

Gonna mod my Saitek this week and see how it works :joystick:

After that i'll post my comments.

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I was wondering if one of you boys could help me get to this stage

image134.jpg

I unscrewed a lot of things but right when i got down to the last part, the metal shaft is connected firmly to some plastic thing and i was wondering how to remove it. I want to get to the friction cup so i can make it more precise.

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