Jump to content

VKB MK IV T-Rudder New Owners and Veterans Q&A


Weedwacker

Recommended Posts

Hello, new owner of the Mark IV pedals and just hoping to see a up to date FAQ or Official thread on this site for the English speaking users.

 

It's the first pair of rudder pedals I've owned, bought on impulse. I'll start with a mini first impression and share with you the steps I have taken since I've first plugged them in.

 

Hardware itself is really nice and great quality. The default tension is a little too soft, I plan on increasing the tension, but I like the default detent.

Instructions for tension increase is in this video:

 

Next I simply followed the included instructions which is also online here.

https://vkbcontrollers.com/?product=t-rudder-quick-guide

Setup is simple, very simple.

 

Next was the software side.

 

I've read "horror" stories about using windows calibration and how that can mess with the firmware on different devices so I avoided that.

 

I downloaded the Wizzo as the directions said to calibrate first but that isn't working for the pedals or they just were not recognized. Assuming that is a WIP. So far that is only for the Gladiator. The pictures in the quick guide did relate that perhaps it was for the Joystick more so.

 

So I downloaded the VKB Device Config Software

Version:VKBDevCfg-C_v0_83_9_6 Latest as of Jan 12th 2018

Here is the FTP of all VKB Software

http://ftp.vkb-sim.pro/Programms/

 

I started it up and clicked on the only device recognized, I see the picture of the Black Box pop up in the top right corner. I didn't see a option for calibration and the software itself is intimidating. So I just closed it, far to eager and excited to try them. I boot up dcs and xplane. It seems to work fine and have no problems. Both Sims recognized them and I got them assigned to their rudder/yaw/torque axis.

 

So, it would seem I got abit of research ahead of me now, the VKB Config manual is super advanced. I read about check the AC (Auto Calibrate) box, perhaps I can find that in the Config software. Will see how and if its needed. Also to learn abit about this will hopefully prevent any issues in the future.

 

I just wanted to get this thread started before I dive back in to the game and software and report back if I learn anything of value to share.

______________________________________________________________

 

Update: I figured out how to calibrate the pedals in the Config. It was actually very easy once I gave it a look over.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=180584&stc=1&d=1520660261

 

Ey853QW

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

Any other owners out there with advice, mods, tips?

vkbruddercalibration.thumb.jpg.262388b578ef5c263fcb46b1d49e026c.jpg


Edited by Weedwacker
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine are amazing with all helicopters and the Spitfire. The precision and control of the tail rotor pitch is worth the money alone. The lack of an easy toe brake makes it a bit awkward in other sims with general aviation type stuff. The Spit has the brake and rudder connected in such a way that it doesn't have a left and right brake as such, so they work fine.

i7-7700K/Gigabyte RTX2080/Win10 64bit/32Gb RAM/Asus Xonar DX+Sennheiser HD380pro headphones/LG 34" UM65 @2560x1080/TM Warthog+VKB MkIV Rudder pedals/Rift CV1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The lack of an easy toe brake makes it a bit awkward in other sims with general aviation type stuff. The Spit has the brake and rudder connected in such a way that it doesn't have a left and right brake as such, so they work fine.

 

With the - easy t use - T-Link software this way to brake you describe (Spitfire) work in any plane in any sim, leaving hardware "toe brakes" (and their associated cost) superfluous (of course they are more "comfortable"). ;)

 

Opera resume: T-Link emulate "differential brakes" (Spitfire, Mig-21... brakes) for planes that use "toe brakes" (P-51D, F-5...). ;)

 

@ Weedwacker

 

I did some "tuning" in spring (or Mk.II) to muffle their "kiiiick, kiiiick" sound. :D

 


Edited by Sokol1_br
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Best pedals for the money I have the Saitek pro flight pedals, the vkb pedals and the pedals on my puma I much prefer the vkb over the other two.

BlackeyCole 20years usaf

XP-11. Dcs 2.5OB

Acer predator laptop/ i7 7720, 2.4ghz, 32 gb ddr4 ram, 500gb ssd,1tb hdd,nvidia 1080 8gb vram

 

 

New FlightSim Blog at https://blackeysblog.wordpress.com. Go visit it and leave me feedback and or comments so I can make it better. A new post every Friday.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine did squeak really badly when I got them, but soon fixed with a bit of silicone spray.

 

Same here. Was fixed by disassembly and reassembly, however :)

AMD R7 5800X3D | Aorus B550 Pro | 32GB DDR4-3600 | RTX 4080 | VKB MGC Pro Gunfighter Mk III + Thustmaster TWCS + VKB T-Rudder Mk4 | HP Reverb G2

FC3 | A-10C II | Ка-50 | P-51 | UH-1 | Ми-8 | F-86F | МиГ-21 | FW-190 | МиГ-15 | Л-39 | Bf 109 | M-2000C | F-5 | Spitfire | AJS-37 | AV-8B | F/A-18C | Як-52 | F-14 | F-16 | Ми-24 | AH-64

NTTR | Normandy | Gulf | Syria | Supercarrier |

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve had my pedals for over a year and as far as I remember never loaded wiz so or and dev config software I use windows or the Mac ot sim configuration usually the only software would be to activate the toe brakes if I ever need that option.

 

Have you heard of the saying if it’s not broken don’t mess with it? If it’s working for you leave we’ll enough alone.

BlackeyCole 20years usaf

XP-11. Dcs 2.5OB

Acer predator laptop/ i7 7720, 2.4ghz, 32 gb ddr4 ram, 500gb ssd,1tb hdd,nvidia 1080 8gb vram

 

 

New FlightSim Blog at https://blackeysblog.wordpress.com. Go visit it and leave me feedback and or comments so I can make it better. A new post every Friday.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve had my pedals for over a year and as far as I remember never loaded wiz so or and dev config software I use windows or the Mac ot sim configuration usually the only software would be to activate the toe brakes if I ever need that option.

 

Have you heard of the saying if it’s not broken don’t mess with it? If it’s working for you leave we’ll enough alone.

 

I was the kid who took apart everything.

 

Believe it or not the calibration actually was needed according to the test software. Before I ever fully pressed them down, they were already reading max depression but I still had probably a quarter inch of space left to press.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am don't make calibration one time, but update firmware some times to be able to use T-Link (since my model is Mk.II).

 

Recently I hidden in DevCfg the two extras axes showed in DevCfg test or Windows Games controllers - that axes are used for T-Link "differential brakes" emulation, because that axis, set in 0 are seem be ARMA3 as pressed for left and every attempt to map/remap commands in this game pick an T-Rudder Axis first.

 

The only planes for what I need T-Link "differential brakes" emulation is Bf 109 K-4 and Fw 190 D-9, but my "15 minutes" interest in then faded away at long time. Anyway show that axes again take just few clicks (tested). TL/DR.


Edited by Sokol1_br
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I got a few days ago the MK4s. They are worth every cent. But I struggle to set up the virtual toe brakes. Went through the manual by vbk. T-Link recognizes the assigned button on my hotas. But the virtual axis are not enabled.

 

Anyone had similar issues?

 

OS: Win10

FW: 1.923

Blackbox in use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In T-Link interface when you press the joystick button you assign for "Brakes", the two LED columns in AUX interface goes up?

 

Your T-Link is set as standalone pedal or share a BlackBox with joystick - in this case may require load a specif profile in BlackBox.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If anyone still has trouble setting up virtual toe brakes, use Joystick Gremlin and Vjoy, it was very simple to split the axis into two virtual axis for binding in DCS with a modifier.

Virpil WarBRD | Thrustmaster Hornet Grip | Foxx Mount | Thrustmaster TWCS Throttle | Logitech G Throttle Quadrant | VKB T-Rudder IV | TrackIR 5

 

 

AMD Ryzen 5 3600 | Nvidia GTX 1060 6GB | 32GB DDR4 3200 | SSD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
In T-Link interface when you press the joystick button you assign for "Brakes", the two LED columns in AUX interface goes up?

 

Your T-Link is set as standalone pedal or share a BlackBox with joystick - in this case may require load a specif profile in BlackBox.

 

The button is recognized in the t-link SW. Red LEDs in the left panel are on. But virtual axis are not activated.

In AUX interface only green RUDDER LED is on. LEFT/RIGHT BRK are off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seems that virtual (logical) axes for l/r brakes are not on.

 

Since firmware is newer (FW: 1.923) download latest version of T-link (0.72), from there:

 

https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=%21ANlV11a4z3ce38g&id=570450F29CE7DF25%21108&cid=570450F29CE7DF25

 

Test again, - don't forget click in Start/Stop button for set STATUS: SENDING DATA.

 

 

 

T-Link2.jpgirish gaelic names female

 

If STATUS is DEACTIVATED the virtual (logical) axes L/R don't work, but rudder axis (physical) work.

 

 

 

 

If still don't working download VKBDevCfg-C_v0.90.13 (from same link), run, select T-Rudder and in Profile > Action tab > Logical axes

 

Look if Y and Z axes (2 and 3) have left boxes En (enabled) and Vs (visible) ticked.

 

If don't work, follow this instructions: http://forum.vkb-sim.pro/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=2762


Edited by Sokol1_br
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Virtual Brakes

 

I found easy instruction "How to make virtual brakes".

Tested on DCS, I used 1 of the buttons on Kosmosima, also good for KG-12 pilots.

MCG owners will probably combine Metal Brake with T-Rudder.

(Nothing new just refreshed the memory)

001.thumb.jpg.44fcf1b9e6e679391b1a0c40805e687e.jpg

003.thumb.jpg.10e1f6f0fe42d9ed82d30e15ac539ff0.jpg

004.thumb.jpg.2de09ed81bdbbe0902e624387b237a75.jpg

004a.thumb.jpg.b610a67b07cf37c8f39a2d69afeb9c23.jpg

005.thumb.jpg.02c6b64bdceca5d5fa0d7d07e668cbff.jpg


Edited by absolut79

i7 8700K | Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB| Gigabyte Z370 AORUS Gaming 7 | MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti GAMING X TRIO | Samsung 960 PRO Series - 512GB PCIe NVMe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The button is recognized in the t-link SW. Red LEDs in the left panel are on. But virtual axis are not activated.

In AUX interface only green RUDDER LED is on. LEFT/RIGHT BRK are off.

Same problem here.

:megalol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can someone help me figure out how to get the damn cam assembly out of the t-rudders? I'm following the VKB video. After unscrewing all the various bolts, the cam assembly feels loose, but won't budge. Can't see what else could be holding it in.

i7 6700k @ 4.6, Gigabyte Z170X-UD3, 32GB DDR4 2666, GTX 1070, Rift S | MS Sidewinder FFB2 w/ TM F-22 Pro Grip, TM TWCS Throttle, VKB T-Rudder Mk. IV

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Same problem here.

 

I had the T-Link issue as well. Looks like to make it work you have to load the right profile. I found this one on the VKB forums that works for me:

 

http://ftp.vkb-sim.pro/Firmware/BlackBox/BB_v1_81_6.zip

 

I don't think the firmware matters since I'm on a newer one. Just go to the Profiles/T-Link directory, and load the BB_T-Link_v1_81_6.cfg file in the T-Link software (press the Aux button to reveal the aux panel with the load button). Once I loaded the profile, the virtual brakes started working.

i7 6700k @ 4.6, Gigabyte Z170X-UD3, 32GB DDR4 2666, GTX 1070, Rift S | MS Sidewinder FFB2 w/ TM F-22 Pro Grip, TM TWCS Throttle, VKB T-Rudder Mk. IV

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After unscrewing all the various bolts, the cam assembly feels loose, but won't budge.

 

Seems that CAM bearing are pressed against bolt.

 

Try applying WD-40 or similar in the contact of bolt and bearing, await some time, then hold the CAM an hit top of bolt with a wooden or hard plastic piece - don't use metal hammer direct in bolt, can deform their tip and prevents fit the nut after.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seems that CAM bearing are pressed against bolt.

 

Try applying WD-40 or similar in the contact of bolt and bearing, await some time, then hold the CAM an hit top of bolt with a wooden or hard plastic piece - don't use metal hammer direct in bolt, can deform their tip and prevents fit the nut after.

 

Ok, I got it out. WD-40 helped a bit. So did flipping it over and pressing on the base to apply a bit more pressure to the cam posts. I saw this technique used in the video for the Mk. III and seemed to work here as well. After putting wd-40 on the cam bolt and on the outside of the bearing, I put it back together. Worked fine.

 

Then I decided to take it apart once more to try another spring force setting, and while it was easier, it was still quite difficult (remember it is lubed now). The bearing was so difficult to take off the cam bolt. Had to use a screwdriver as a lever to slowly get it off, whereas in the video it just slides off smoothly. Same with putting the bearing back in the casing. It took so much force to get it back in. Is this normal? Maybe the video is just deceiving about how gentle (or not) the process is? :D

i7 6700k @ 4.6, Gigabyte Z170X-UD3, 32GB DDR4 2666, GTX 1070, Rift S | MS Sidewinder FFB2 w/ TM F-22 Pro Grip, TM TWCS Throttle, VKB T-Rudder Mk. IV

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

After owning a while the Mk.IV pedals, I can't say anything else than that any other with twisting axis doesn't come close.

 

The smooth, high accuracy and "office chair design" is just amazing. After years of the orthodox pedal designs with separate toe brakes, I don't miss either one.

 

Now the pedaling is easy, effortless and it is like "If you think it, you are doing too much" with helicopters and fighters. I have a low altitude flight chair (not an office chair) and the default pedals angle was just great.

 

I don't wear shoes (who would?) so it was initial question in first minutes, but quickly it turn to be false. It is easy to rest feets on the pedals.

 

What comes to toe brakes, I don't use them. Not on any modern fighter when taxiing etc. Nose wheel steering all the way or then the Soviet style break leveler etc (if wanted to turn, full pedal press on that direction and control breaking amount with the stick lever).

 

A friend has the one other white ones that is made from composite material (the handmade etc) and I just can't anymore fly with any pedals that requires to move feets forward/backward and twist the knees/hip.

 

Everytime I look at the VKB pedals, I am still amazed by their small size, the clever design and just pure functionality and its simplicity.

 

If something I would change even today, is to offer a official way to get the RJ45 cable come out from back, by getting it go through the pedals neatly.

 

The VKB design is great because they realize that not everything that is in the real aircraft, can be implemented to the simulator in a room. As there are no same forces and controls in play like in real aircraft, so the controls needs to be more accurate, smoother, support finer controls and maintain a relaxed sitting in multiple kind chairs.

i7-8700k, 32GB 2666Mhz DDR4, 2x 2080S SLI 8GB, Oculus Rift S.

i7-8700k, 16GB 2666Mhz DDR4, 1080Ti 11GB, 27" 4K, 65" HDR 4K.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...