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CH Product Owners? Need Question answered!


iVVChewy9141VVi

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I've never used the CH software and am currently using Win10.

Until recently was flying with a Fighterstick, Throttle and Pedals. All worked fine in Win10 with DCS.

System: 9700, 64GB DDR4, 2070S, NVME2, Rift S, Jetseat, Thrustmaster F18 grip, VPC T50 stick base and throttle, CH Throttle, MFG crosswinds, custom button box, Logitech G502 and Marble mouse.

Server: i5 2500@3.9Ghz, 1080, 24GB DDR3, SSD.

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No problems here.

 

Win 10 Version 1803 OSBuild 17134.48,

Updated a few days ago.

Mainboard: ASUS Maximus X Hero Intel Z 370

CPU: Intel Core i7-8086K @ 4.0 GHz

Memory: 32GB Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4-3000

Graphics Card: ASUS NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 10GB

Monitor ASUS PA 329 32" @ 4K

1 SSD Samsung 860 PRO 256 GB

1 SSD Samsung 860 PRO 4 TB

Windows 10 - 64 V. 2004

CH Pro combatstick, throttle and pedals

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The CH Software does work with Windows 10.

 

That said, I have also experienced issues that others have had.

 

In my case, the cause was that the Control Manager creates virtual devices each with their own USB IDs. In certain cases (re-installs?) too many virtual devices get created causing conflicts. The solution was to simply clear all previously created virtual devices before doing a clean reinstall of the CH Control Manger.

 

What I believe many may not be aware of is that included within the CH software suite is a program called CMDelete.exe made for this exact purpose. If you run into this issue and do clean up, be sure to reboot before reinstalling.

 

I have recovered from the non-responsive issue using this method and my CH gear has worked flawlessly since.

 

If you do not need the advantages of Mapped Mode that the CH Control Manger software provides, you can skip the installation of the software altogether as others have mentioned.

 

However, the CM software is well designed and very powerful - especially if you are (or willing to become) comfortable with custom scripting. You can add a lot of extra functionality (e.g. add short/long presses to buttons, remove axis jitter, add extra virtual controls, etc.)

3570K w/ 16GB, 1070 w/ 8GB @ 1440p, VKB Gunfighter/MCG-Pro & T-Rudder Mk.IV, CH ProThrottle, TrackIR 5, HTC Vive, UniversRadio, VoiceAttack, TacView Pro, DCS Menu Nav

F/A-18C, F-5E, F-86F, A-10C, AV-8B, AJS-37, MiG-21bis, MiG-15bis, UH-1H, Mi-8MTV2, Ka-50, SA342, P-51D, Spitfire Mk.IX, Bf109, Fw190, FC3, CA, Persian Gulf, NTTR, Normandy, WW2 Assets

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Hello there

 

I have looked at getting CH HOTAS but the let down for me here is the lack rudder on the flightstick and the jittering I have read plagues the hotas because it is not 16-bit precision design.

 

Kindly share how you get how you get around the rudder thing if you are not using pedal control and your general experience with it.

 

Planning to use it for the forthcoming FA-18C

 

Thanks in anticipation

Windows 10 Pro 64bit|Ryzen 5600 @3.8Ghz|EVGA RTX 3070 XC3 Ultra|Corair vengence 32G DDR4 @3200mhz|MSI B550|Thrustmaster Flightstick| Virpil CM3 Throttle| Thrustmaster TFRP Rudder Pedal /Samsung Odyssey Plus Headset

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Hello there

 

I have looked at getting CH HOTAS but the let down for me here is the lack rudder on the flightstick and the jittering I have read plagues the hotas because it is not 16-bit precision design.

 

You do not need a 16-bit HOTAS. In some test applications you can draw with stick little better compared to 8-bit, but in flight you don't really get that difference.

 

The possible jittering in CH products is not their 8-bit boards but your USB lacking power.

Get a good powered USB hub and your jittery likely goes away. Or open the bottom and check the cable connections as there might be some play when you move HOTAS axis. That is sad thing to try fixing if you are still under warranty.

i7-8700k, 32GB 2666Mhz DDR4, 2x 2080S SLI 8GB, Oculus Rift S.

i7-8700k, 16GB 2666Mhz DDR4, 1080Ti 11GB, 27" 4K, 65" HDR 4K.

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Still very much working, no disconnection problems in a very long time and I still use this very good profile (Modified) for FC3 with every key that FC3 has setup ready to bind, word document with hotas pictures. I learnt a lot about CH manager and what it could do using this profile.

i7-7700K OC @ 5Ghz | ASUS IX Hero MB | ASUS GTX 1080 Ti STRIX | 32GB Corsair 3000Mhz | Corsair H100i V2 Radiator | Samsung 960 EVO M.2 NVMe 500G SSD | Samsung 850 EVO 500G SSD | Corsair HX850i Platinum 850W | Oculus Rift | ASUS PG278Q 27-inch, 2560 x 1440, G-SYNC, 144Hz, 1ms | VKB Gunfighter Pro

Chuck's DCS Tutorial Library

Download PDF Tutorial guides to help get up to speed with aircraft quickly and also great for taking a good look at the aircraft available for DCS before purchasing. Link

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You do not need a 16-bit HOTAS. In some test applications you can draw with stick little better compared to 8-bit, but in flight you don't really get that difference.

 

The possible jittering in CH products is not their 8-bit boards but your USB lacking power.

Get a good powered USB hub and your jittery likely goes away. Or open the bottom and check the cable connections as there might be some play when you move HOTAS axis. That is sad thing to try fixing if you are still under warranty.

 

 

Thank you.

I would look out for a good deal. I want to believe the only way out for the lack of rudder on the stick is to get a pedal control setup.

Windows 10 Pro 64bit|Ryzen 5600 @3.8Ghz|EVGA RTX 3070 XC3 Ultra|Corair vengence 32G DDR4 @3200mhz|MSI B550|Thrustmaster Flightstick| Virpil CM3 Throttle| Thrustmaster TFRP Rudder Pedal /Samsung Odyssey Plus Headset

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You do not need a 16-bit HOTAS. In some test applications you can draw with stick little better compared to 8-bit, but in flight you don't really get that difference.

 

Yes, really is not need a 16 bit controller (despite manufacurers marketing), but and a 10/12 bits?

 

People tend justify - for themself, their new (and expensive) "toys", but all people who bough Warthog, VKB, VPC swear that they have more "precision"* e.g. than their previous (8 bit) CH, specially for fly DCS helicopters.

 

* Of course, gimbal mechanic (feature in what CH is far from bright), sensor quality play in the equation. E.g. X-52 use contacless sensor, but mediocre implement in a bad gimbal mechanics.

 

And what mater if a real F-16 use only 4 bits in their fly-by-wire? We are not flying in real F-16, but in computer programs. :)

 

After all no one keep using using Pentium III, Geforce2 GTS, Windows 98SE - all contemporaneous of CH '1999 tech' controllers.


Edited by Sokol1_br
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  • 4 months later...

In my case, the cause was that the Control Manager creates virtual devices each with their own USB IDs. In certain cases (re-installs?) too many virtual devices get created causing conflicts. The solution was to simply clear all previously created virtual devices before doing a clean reinstall of the CH Control Manger.

 

What I believe many may not be aware of is that included within the CH software suite is a program called CMDelete.exe made for this exact purpose. If you run into this issue and do clean up, be sure to reboot before reinstalling.

 

What are the steps?

 

 

My CH Holy Trinity is plugged in right now. Do I run CMDelete.exe right now, then unplug them, then restart, then reinstall CH Control Manager, then replug the devices back in?

 

 

Or at what point do I unplug/replug them?

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I personally consider CH to be best in class . No glitz , but the axes and switches have a great feel , and they last forever . After getting a Pro fighterstick , I passed on my 8 year-old CH to my son-in-law (along with a copy of BoB) . That stick was still working as new....I just needed more switches for jets . As for Control Manager , never used it . DCS bindings do all I need .


Edited by Svsmokey

9700k @ stock , Aorus Pro Z390 wifi , 32gb 3200 mhz CL16 , 1tb EVO 970 , MSI RX 6800XT Gaming X TRIO , Seasonic Prime 850w Gold , Coolermaster H500m , Noctua NH-D15S , CH Pro throttle and T50CM2/WarBrD base on Foxxmounts , CH pedals , Reverb G2v2

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In my opinion CH Manager is the best software in his class.

And CMPrint is a very useful tool.

 

 

 

What is the CMPrint?

pXLeZpx.png

 

 

A software which creates schematics like this one:

 

 

 

3lEQASD.jpg

Here with 3 modes. Green= NAV/ Red=A-A/ Blue A-G

 

 

 

If you do not want to use CHManager profiles, you only need to fill the field "Comments" in the CH profile

 

 

I downloaded from http://www.ch-hangar.com/ as far I remember.

:megalol:

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What are the steps?

 

 

My CH Holy Trinity is plugged in right now. Do I run CMDelete.exe right now, then unplug them, then restart, then reinstall CH Control Manager, then replug the devices back in?

 

 

Or at what point do I unplug/replug them?

 

It's been a while since I've had the issue but, from what I recall:

 

1) Unplug the devices

2) Run CMDelete and remove everything.

3) Reboot computer

4) Plug devices back in (should auto-detect)

5) Load any saved map files etc.

3570K w/ 16GB, 1070 w/ 8GB @ 1440p, VKB Gunfighter/MCG-Pro & T-Rudder Mk.IV, CH ProThrottle, TrackIR 5, HTC Vive, UniversRadio, VoiceAttack, TacView Pro, DCS Menu Nav

F/A-18C, F-5E, F-86F, A-10C, AV-8B, AJS-37, MiG-21bis, MiG-15bis, UH-1H, Mi-8MTV2, Ka-50, SA342, P-51D, Spitfire Mk.IX, Bf109, Fw190, FC3, CA, Persian Gulf, NTTR, Normandy, WW2 Assets

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___________________________________________________

Windows 10 64 Bit - Asus 990FX Sabertooth MB - AMD FX8150 Black 8 Core CPU - Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 16 Gigabyte - Samsung 860 EVO 500GB HD - EVGA GEFORCE GTX-1070 - Corsair 1050 Gold PS - Vizio 43" 4K UHD Monitor - CH Fighter Stick - CH Pro Rudder Pedals - CH Pro Throttle

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  • 2 weeks later...

I know this is an older OP topic but thought I’d give my two cents anyways. I’ve had he same CH Combatstick and CH rudder pedals for God knows how long. Since they don’t require drivers knock on wood, I’ve never ever had a problem using either and that’s going through 3 custom rig builds I’ve done and I don’t remember how many Windows versions. The rudder pedals to this day are smooth as silk and the Combatstick was an upgrade to the original stick they came out with. Have never had other one apart for any reason. Never have needed to. I fly DCS, IL2 and XPlane 11 exclusively with them both and have never had an issue. Granted, some of the axis needed to be reversed but big deal. The only thing I shyed away from was the CH Products Control Manager software. It always seemed to give me more problems than it was worth. Many will disagree with me on that but that’s just been my experience with it.

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  • 4 months later...
The only thing I shyed away from was the CH Products Control Manager software. It always seemed to give me more problems than it was worth. Many will disagree with me on that but that’s just been my experience with it.

 

I've found mapping software in general to not be worth the effort. Especially since most flight (and driving) sims have such good mapping options built in. Now, for the Steam Controller the mapping software is virtually mandatory to make it even remotely useful with any game.

Windows 10 64-bit | Ryzen 9 3900X 4.00GHz (OC) | Asus Strix B450-F | 64GB Corsair Vengeance @ 3000MHz | two Asus GeForce 1070 Founders Edition (second card used for CUDA only) | two Silicon Power 1TB NVMe in RAID-0 | Samsung 32" 1440p Monitor | two ASUS 23" 1080p monitors | ASUS Mixed Reality VR | Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS | MFG Crosswind

 

A-10C Warthog | AV-8B Harrier (N/A) | F/A-18C Hornet | F-16C Viper | F-14B Tomcat | UH-1H Huey | P-51D Mustang | F-86F Saber | Persian Gulf | NTTR

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  • 3 weeks later...
You do not need a 16-bit HOTAS. In some test applications you can draw with stick little better compared to 8-bit, but in flight you don't really get that difference.

 

The possible jittering in CH products is not their 8-bit boards but your USB lacking power.

Get a good powered USB hub and your jittery likely goes away. Or open the bottom and check the cable connections as there might be some play when you move HOTAS axis. That is sad thing to try fixing if you are still under warranty.

 

Thanks for the tips! :)

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The possible jittering in CH products is not their 8-bit boards but your USB lacking power.

 

Other causes of jitter is bad contact is potentiometer tabs - that is not soldered, and with cumulative use, is dirt inside pot - on resistive tracks, used pot's are not sealed.

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My pedals got jittery after I tore my desk down and rebuilt it. Originally I blamed rooskies (you have to say it with a Slim Pickens accent), because I was flying out of Maikop in an F-5, and that was a more likely culprit than a dirty potentiometer.

 

 

Historically all my problems with CH, and I used them for decades, was worn potentiometers. Analog pots gets twitchy after a while; just the nature of the beast. My old fighterstick looked like it was having an electronic grand mal, just sitting on the desk.

 

 

I'm a huge fan of CH, but I moved to Warthog (and just ordered Crosswind rudders). That's partly because of the electronic issues, and partly because there are more control options on the new (grossly more expensive) options.

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