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Warthog mod - Harrier Nozzle lever


Terry Dactil

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I have been using the Warthog throttle slider to set the Harrier's nozzle angle.

 

Adjusting the axis curve to set the 82° hover setting at the weak detent at 50% travel kinda worked, but gave vastly different sensitivity on each side which I did not like.

I wanted a tactile indication to make it easy to set the hover nozzle angle. I considered using one of the throttle levers, but thought it would be too difficult to modify the afterburner detent to work on one side only and accurately set the position, so it was back to using the slider.

323.thumb.jpg.6b425cfef26cf8feb29be396527f0b6f.jpg511486135_Nozzlelever.JPG.c5512c702c5821555de0b29f5c44f8b3.JPG

1005165535_Clampv3.JPG.f31539a81dc774268c33249c5eb2269d.JPG668622875_Detentpin.JPG.26d6da37028cbae84369fcdb10597482.JPG

On my theory that any important control in the cockpit should have a big and important lever, I have made (3D printed) an extension lever and adjustable detent to get a nozzle control more like the real thing.

 

The detent is not really a detent. It just slightly increases the resistance to movement and also causes the lever to wriggle slightly outboard just like the real thing. This makes it easy to feel when at the hover position. The side clamp is accurately positioned by a small projection which engages in the aft end of the slot on the Warthog unit.

Nothing on the Warthog throttle unit has been changed in any way. This mod just fits over the existing components and can be removed easily. The 'detent' is adjustable and is clamped in position (as is the lever and clamp body) with M5x0.8 grubscrews just because I had some handy. Some tape or a spot of glue would work just as well.

 

*** Update: ***

Noticed that the lever hit the aft stop just before reaching full travel of the pot. This could be easily fixed by adjusting the axis trim, but I wanted to avoid that so I have modified the files so the lever now goes full travel.

 

The images have been updated and the modified STL files are here for anyone who wants to make their own.

Nozzle lever.zip


Edited by Terry Dactil
Modified to get full travel
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looking good. Currently I use the left throttle but your solution sounds better.

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Saw this post from a squadron mate. We are currently flying the Harrier exclusively as a squadron. I know myself and a few of my fellow pilots would be interested in this mod.

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Or even better, upload somewhere that 3D printing ignorant people like myself could just order one to be made and shipped, like Shapeways?

Is that attitude necessary? Shapeways allows you to upload files yourself without requiring a vendor to do it for you. Unless you are willing to pay $400 mark up price for the part, in which case I and I'm sure many others would be more than happy to upload it for you. :P


Edited by 98abaile
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  • 5 weeks later...

Just wanted to post back here that yes, it is indeed quite easy to upload to Shapeways the STL file(s) that OP posted. And now for $25 I've got a matte black plastic Harrier nozzle lever heading my way in about two weeks.


Edited by GregP
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Hi Terry,

 

 

Just wanted to say a quick thankyou for this. I read the thread this morning and promptly ordered through an online service the parts to be made. ( Can't the internet be a great place sometimes!!!).

 

 

Hopefully I will have them delivered sometime in the next week.

 

 

Do you have any way of excepting payments/donations? As I would like to show my support for those, like you, who help make my hobby so much more enjoyable by creating things like this.

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Do you have any way of excepting payments/donations?
Thanks for the kind thought, but that is not necessary.

Like you I have been helped a lot by this forum, and I just want to contribute something in return.

Also, it is quite satisfying for me to design something , then make it and find out that it actually works. :smilewink:

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  • 4 months later...

Thank you so much!. After ordering all three components to be printed through Shapeways, they wrote me back saying that the side clamp was too thin and had a 0% success rate to print. Should I be worried or should I have them printed anyways? This is on versatile plastic.

Btw, this would be the first 3d print I ever ordered!

 

Again, thanks so much Terry Dactil!

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Thank you so much!. After ordering all three components to be printed through Shapeways, they wrote me back saying that the side clamp was too thin and had a 0% success rate to print. Should I be worried or should I have them printed anyways? This is on versatile plastic.

Btw, this would be the first 3d print I ever ordered!

 

Again, thanks so much Terry Dactil!

That doesn't sound right, it should be possible to print tiny models, way thinner than this model.

I've just uploaded it to shapeways and it didn't seem to have any problems for me. If you're still having no luck, I've edited his model to remove the recessed area on the side; try that.

side clamp edited.zip

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Where can I find this on shapeways?

New hotness: I7 9700k 4.8ghz, 32gb ddr4, 2080ti, :joystick: TM Warthog. TrackIR, HP Reverb (formermly CV1)

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That doesn't sound right, it should be possible to print tiny models, way thinner than this model.

I've just uploaded it to shapeways and it didn't seem to have any problems for me. If you're still having no luck, I've edited his model to remove the recessed area on the side; try that.

 

Thank you so much! You guys are awesome

Intel i7-8700k @ 4.8Ghz

H100i v2

MSI Z370 Gaming M5

Corsair Dominator DDR4 64GB (4x16GB) 2400MHz

EVGA 1080TI FTW3

ADATA XPG SX8200 240GB (Win10)

SAMSUNG 850 SSD (DCS & Saved Games Folder)

EVGA SuperNOVA 1200 P2, 80+ PLATINUM 1200W

Phanteks Enthoo Pro

HOTAS Warthog

CH Pedals

TrackIR 5 w/Delan Clip Fusion

Logitech FSP

Gametrix Jetseat kw-908/Buttkicker 2

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That doesn't sound right, it should be possible to print tiny models, way thinner than this model.

I've just uploaded it to shapeways and it didn't seem to have any problems for me. If you're still having no luck, I've edited his model to remove the recessed area on the side; try that.

 

It worked. Thanks again!

Intel i7-8700k @ 4.8Ghz

H100i v2

MSI Z370 Gaming M5

Corsair Dominator DDR4 64GB (4x16GB) 2400MHz

EVGA 1080TI FTW3

ADATA XPG SX8200 240GB (Win10)

SAMSUNG 850 SSD (DCS & Saved Games Folder)

EVGA SuperNOVA 1200 P2, 80+ PLATINUM 1200W

Phanteks Enthoo Pro

HOTAS Warthog

CH Pedals

TrackIR 5 w/Delan Clip Fusion

Logitech FSP

Gametrix Jetseat kw-908/Buttkicker 2

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  • 11 months later...
I have been using the Warthog throttle slider to set the Harrier's nozzle angle.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=191078&thumb=1&d=1533023705

 

*** Update: ***

Noticed that the lever hit the aft stop just before reaching full travel of the pot. This could be easily fixed by adjusting the axis trim, but I wanted to avoid that so I have modified the files so the lever now goes full travel.

 

That doesn't sound right, it should be possible to print tiny models, way thinner than this model.

I've just uploaded it to shapeways and it didn't seem to have any problems for me. If you're still having no luck, I've edited his model to remove the recessed area on the side; try that.

 

Hi guys,

 

I just would like to thank you two for the files. I tried to get something different from Debolestis, but he didn't have any and I decided to find a local 3D print service here.

 

I paid around 10USD for the three parts, but I loved the lever itself. I am not even going to install the other two. I will use that lever not only for the nozzle lever in the harrier, but also as the collective in all chopters. I just tested and it works fine bringing some more precision for the flight.

 

I will post a picture of it tomorrow.

 

Once again, thank you very much. All the best,

 

Sydy

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  • 10 months later...

Sorry for the necro post  but I order from Shapeways using the "edited" file for the side clamp and Gray MJF Plastic PA12. Got this message from them:

Quote

Rejection issue: Thin Walls
Rejection description: The highlighted areas in the attached picture are at risk of breaking. The walls in your model are too thin for the current geometry and cannot withstand our manufacturing process without breaking. The design may be more successful if the thin areas are thickened. We encourage you to alter your design to ensure a successful print. Please consider these options: 1. For Gray and Black MJF Plastic PA12, thicken the minimum supported walls to be greater than or equal to 0.4 mm. 2. For Gray and Black MJF Plastic PA12, thicken the minimum unsupported walls to be greater than or equal to 0.5 mm. 3. For Black Smooth MJF Plastic PA12, thicken the minimum supported and unsupported walls to be greater than or equal to 1.5 mm. 

image.png

 

Any recommendations? 

 

And, thanks a lot for these models!

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Sorry to see that you have a problem with Shapeways.

Perhaps it has something to go with the type of material requested.

I printed mine in PLA and it has been working for more than 2 years with no problems.

I used Cura to produce the g-code for the printer and it had a default wall thickness of 1.2mm.

It looks like they got a decimal place wrong somewhere.

Try specifying production in PLA.

If you still have problems , PM me and I will see if I can find and modify the old design files for you.


Edited by Terry Dactil
added comment about decimal place error
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 10 months later...

Hi Terry,

I'd like to use your neat little add-on for the TMWH throttle but my cockpit setup has my throttle mounted on a Monstertech desk clamp/plate; as a result the clamping height from the top of the throttle box to the bottom of the mounting plate is 60.6 mm instead of the 50 mm I measure for the throttle box itself. As I lack the skills to edit your file for the mounting clamp, could I impose on you to edit your clamp file to make the clamp height 61 mm? Or if it is easy to do, instructions on how?

Cheers,

Vulture

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When I looked at the screen shots of the set up I realized I'm in the same boat as Kirk66, my throttle is on a Monstertech Table mount. I guess I could shim (Thin washers) the mounting screws for the throttle and mounting plate enough to lift it up and slide in your part.  Thanks for the file, I need to call my buddy with the 3D printer and see if he can make it for me or upload it to Shapeways or similar 3D printing site.  

Sempre Fortis

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Kirk66:

I managed to find the old files.

These show the distance between the upper and lower faces as 53.2 mm, but I guess the grub screw takes up the difference from your 50mm measurement.

Anyway, from your measurements, it looks like yo want an extra 11 mm and that is easily done.

image.pngimage.png

Here are the modified files. Note: Fusion360 file is now 3mf format instead of stl. It is much the same but now includes graphics.

Includes a gcode file. These are both for the side clamp only as there are no changes to the other bits. Your buddy should be able to print this.

Side clamp-mod61.zip

*****************************************************************************************

For anyone who knows their way around in Fusion360 wants to try modifying the original designfiles - here they are. Good luck!

Side clamp v8.zip


Edited by Terry Dactil
Added more stuff
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