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Modular Panel WIP


Blue73

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Thank you Gotwake. Yes I will be releasing the files but they all will need some level of tweaking. I've learnt new techniques along the way and want to retroactively apply to my earlier designs. Also I need to supply build instructions, this in itself is a project. I expect once they're released to be flooded with questions so I'll need free time to answer and if necessary tweak the STLs.

 

At the moment and for the next few months I'm focused on getting it all done. For the past 9 months I've spent all my free time on this project and somehow continue to hold down a technical day job. I can now start to see the finish line!

 

cheers

 

John

 

 

Seriously guys, he has said that he will likely release the stls when they are ready, he is putting an immense amount of work into this, the time and effort alone just on the initial models let alone any post print adjustments that he is making would easily push into the multiple thousands of dollars if anyone were to hire it out. Let's all show him the respect that he deserves and quit asking for him to hand it over for free.

 

I have watched this thread since the start of this project and envied his work because I know that my design/3d modeling abilities will never even come close to this. If he decides to release the STL files I will forever appreciate it. If he makes the choice to keep them to himself then I will respect that.

 

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

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Hey a fellow DCS'er from Geraldton! I buy all my filament from 3DFillies. But I bought my last batch from Amazon. Since I have Prime got it shipped expedited for free rather than pay $10 and wait 2 weeks.

 

Good luck with your printer, I hear allot of people on this board getting Ender Pro 3 printers, must be some good reviews going around for them.

 

cheers

 

John

 

nice to see another west ozzie on this side of dcs world. im up gero way and have a ender 3 arriving tomorrow. do you buy your filament locally or online, cheers.
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Ender 3s are great because they are dirt cheap and have tons of support. They work well enough out of the box for PLA and with only a bit of TLC they can produce fantastic quality prints (I have it's bigger brother the CR-10S). Supposedly though they're not suitable for printing ABS out of the box due to the hot end design (poor cooling causing heat creep) and the PTFE used (it melts and releases toxic fumes). To get them printing ABS, it's advisable to at least upgrade the PTFE to capricorn tubing or better yet a V6 hot end (ideally all metal).

For cheap beginner printers though, they are ideal and very moddable.

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Was just hoping you would share the throttle plate dimensions/file as clearly you have that down correct. I'm not all that great at precise measurements so getting the screw holes exact in fusion is proving tough.

 

But no worries I guess after enough prints and trial and error I'll get them lined up.

 

I want to do this project as my own thing, not just print your STLs for the boxes when you release them. I was just hoping to get a little help on the fundamental pieces.

 

Good luck with your project and thanks for all the inspiration!

Intel i7-4770k @ 4.4ghz, 32gb ram, GTX 1080ti, Oculus Rift S

 

Advanced apologies if my post contains typos or missing letters. Many of my posts are typed on a laptop with an old keyboard that has a personality all its own.

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I agree!

Got mine last week, couple of hours of work to set it up, including cutting a glass to cover the stock bed that was bent and now it's printing very well.

Need some tweaking and tune up the profile in Cura but "as is" it's already good!

 

Ender 3s are great because they are dirt cheap and have tons of support. They work well enough out of the box for PLA and with only a bit of TLC they can produce fantastic quality prints (I have it's bigger brother the CR-10S). Supposedly though they're not suitable for printing ABS out of the box due to the hot end design (poor cooling causing heat creep) and the PTFE used (it melts and releases toxic fumes). To get them printing ABS, it's advisable to at least upgrade the PTFE to capricorn tubing or better yet a V6 hot end (ideally all metal).

For cheap beginner printers though, they are ideal and very moddable.

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  • 1 month later...

Impressive work!

Hi, The text has been raised 0.4mm then I've brush painted on white. Very easy to do with decent results.

I wonder if one could print it in white, paint it black and run it over a sanding block to expose the white plastic on the text to make it back-lit ;)

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Hi Guys, all good here just been real busy with work. I usually get an email when I receive a Discord message but for some reason I didn't, sorry Gotwake.

 

Anyways I've completed all the electronics and after trialing the front section in the correct position I realised it sat way too high on my desk. So for practical reasons I've moved the mounting around to drop it below the correct cockpit position. If I decide to do a full pit then I'll move it back up again. Muscle memory is coming along quickly, after an hour I'm already able to find the button, I play in VR.

 

The bus design has been altered to use all 10 lines, interleaving ground and +5V between the signals. Seems to perform allot more stable now for the longer run. I started using tantalums liberally which has helped eliminate the noise I'd sometimes see on the analog pins. I also VRef the ADC off a 3.3V source which has helped. The new slave cct is now standardized and is used for all five front modules you see here. There's still three more to complete.

 

I like the idea from Hyperion I can see that working, could even print in clear that comes out as white/smoked.

 

 

7zcuxyc.jpg

 

cheers

 

John


Edited by Blue73
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That is so bloody impressive :)

I ended up going down the 3D printing rabbit hole shortly after I asked your advice on printer choice...it's all your fault

---------------------------------------------------------

PC specs:- Intel 386DX, 2mb memory, onboard graphics, 14" 640x480 monitor

Modules owned:- Bachem Natter, Cessna 150, Project Pluto, Sopwith Snipe

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[quote snip

John

 

u never fail to impress, amazing work as usual :) . got plans to add screens and lcd just to make it fully complete? (even tho i know your in vr)

 

Casper

59th | Casper



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Cheers :)

 

So many possibilities with a 3D printer, you made a great choice.

 

That is so bloody impressive :)

I ended up going down the 3D printing rabbit hole shortly after I asked your advice on printer choice...it's all your fault

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Thanks Casper!

 

I designed the MFD with that in mind, the tough part will be sourcing a display with the correct dimensions.

 

[quote snip

John

 

u never fail to impress, amazing work as usual :) . got plans to add screens and lcd just to make it fully complete? (even tho i know your in vr)

 

Casper

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Cheers :)

 

So many possibilities with a 3D printer, you made a great choice.

 

See my thread on this sub forum about the 3D printed joystick to see my first major project...

 

How are you getting along with printing indented text on your panels ? I just can't get mine quite good enough to be happy with it

---------------------------------------------------------

PC specs:- Intel 386DX, 2mb memory, onboard graphics, 14" 640x480 monitor

Modules owned:- Bachem Natter, Cessna 150, Project Pluto, Sopwith Snipe

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Please send them through, I'll model it in to see how I can get it to fit.

 

Thanks.

 

Blue I recently bought screens with plans to use them behind mfds, when I get home from vacation I'll take some measurements and get you a link

 

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

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That was impressive, great job!!

 

I've switched to raised 0.4mm lettering then paint the tops white. Works much better than indented.

 

See my thread on this sub forum about the 3D printed joystick to see my first major project...

 

How are you getting along with printing indented text on your panels ? I just can't get mine quite good enough to be happy with it

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That was impressive, great job!!

 

I've switched to raised 0.4mm lettering then paint the tops white. Works much better than indented.

 

 

Thanks :)

 

 

I have come to a very similar conclusion on the lettering :)

I'm going to try printing in white though, painting, and then removing the paint from the letters - I'll see if that allows illumination. I expect it will, whether it looks right though is another thing entirely ;)

---------------------------------------------------------

PC specs:- Intel 386DX, 2mb memory, onboard graphics, 14" 640x480 monitor

Modules owned:- Bachem Natter, Cessna 150, Project Pluto, Sopwith Snipe

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Looking at making the ins / flir panel now, what rotary did u use there mate? Preferably I want an 8 switch rotary that snaps to position for the ins dial.

 

Thanks in advance

59th | Casper



[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]



Our Website | Our Facebook Page | YouTube Channel | Our Discord

 

System : 9900k 5ghz, 32GB 4166mhz Ram, 2080Ti, Hotas Warthog, Virpil WarBRD base, MFG Crosswinds, VR + TrackIR, All Modules For DCS

 

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Hi, I bought this one and a short axial version from Mouser, A12505RNZQ.

 

I had a few issues with this panel, the pull to position three for the radar has no DCS-BIOS message and until recently the flir and ltd toggles aren't recognised by the sim. I'd be very happy if you can find a solution.

 

cheers

 

John

 

Looking at making the ins / flir panel now, what rotary did u use there mate? Preferably I want an 8 switch rotary that snaps to position for the ins dial.

 

Thanks in advance


Edited by Blue73
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Hi, I bought this one and a short axial version from Mouser, A12505RNZQ.

 

I had a few issues with this panel, the pull to position three for the radar has no DCS-BIOS message and until recently the flir and ltd toggles aren't recognised by the sim. I'd be very happy if you can find a solution.

 

cheers

 

John

 

Thanks for the advice buddy , this is mostly all new to me , luckily I can code to an extent so learning the syntax will be the only hard part, is your rotary switch click to position or does it just rotate? Also your 3 position switch is that on off on or on x 3? I’m home on sat and have ordered a few arduinos and breadboards etc to play with and test. Then I’ll take a look at the code in the dcs bios f18 library.

59th | Casper



[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]



Our Website | Our Facebook Page | YouTube Channel | Our Discord

 

System : 9900k 5ghz, 32GB 4166mhz Ram, 2080Ti, Hotas Warthog, Virpil WarBRD base, MFG Crosswinds, VR + TrackIR, All Modules For DCS

 

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Happy to help mate. It's a standard 8 click position rotary switch. It does have a washer/selector so you can set the max number of steps you want. All my 3pos switches are on-off-on.

 

Good to get started with this, it's actually really simple to use DCS-BIOS. Took me 15mins to get a switch operating in the sim, the original dev has done a good job. I expected master/slave to be a hassle, but that turned out to be simple as well.

 

Thanks for the advice buddy , this is mostly all new to me , luckily I can code to an extent so learning the syntax will be the only hard part, is your rotary switch click to position or does it just rotate? Also your 3 position switch is that on off on or on x 3? I’m home on sat and have ordered a few arduinos and breadboards etc to play with and test. Then I’ll take a look at the code in the dcs bios f18 library.
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