Jump to content

FreeTrack (free TIR like software) hell yeah!


Recommended Posts

I read the data of the suggested IR LED (SFH485P) from here:

 

http://docs-sia.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0028/0900766b8002885f.pdf

 

In the characteristic forward voltage section, it says

 

I=100mA, tp=20ms, Vf=1.5V

 

I=1A, tp=100 micro-second, Vf=3.0V

 

so which one actually is the optimum current? And what is tp?

 

 

 

Zaelu > That's a very good nice design!!! I will certainly borrow your idea.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The setup is up and ready.

 

Here is the evolution of it as I posted back on Freetrack forums

 

I got my new Webcam Logitech Quickcam Connect (same as Urze), got the resistor(s) 220Ohms

 

Now I have 9V battery (new duracell)

Serial assembly 4 IR LEDs L53F3BTF01 1.2V and 20mA

220Ohms resiistor in front of the + of the LEDs

one piece of color film as IR filter (dark, unexposed)

Logitech QC Connect camera with all auto settings disabled and all sliders to minimum (left)

 

First live picture :D

 

first.jpg

 

Not too much but is a start.

 

Where do I need to go to improve my FOV... the LEDS are lost to quickly. Should I sandpaper the leds?, search for a IR filter in my webcam, give more power to the LEDs?

 

The FPS are realy low... in AmCap they look normal (arround 30) although I loose sight of the LEDs pretty quick also.

 

I will start by applying Urze settings first.

 

...

 

 

second attempt!

andsecond.jpg

 

Now the FPS seems to be fixed or in very good progress (tweaking still remain)

 

...

 

 

OK, I had succesfuly removed the IR filter with tremendeous succes! :pirate:

 

here is a very small video on youtube to see my asolute succes

 

 

Also here are some small pictures of the webcam in pieces to see the details in case someone else want to do the same.

 

The only truly delicate thing about it is to spot in time (before you destroy the camera) the small rubber cap on one side of the camera that is hiding a small sunk screw that once removed the camera come apart in two shells effortless. Also the camera orb can be poped out of its support with a firm but kind of gentle pull.

The IR filter is mounted on a small black plastic cover attached on to the CCD card by two other screws. Unscrew the 2... screws and after removing that plastic cover do what you have to do to take it out. I broke it with a screwdriver in gazillion pieces and cleaned up the place.

 

Then put back carefully all the bits back (remember the position of the support lock, the position of the rubber cable suport, the lens assembly etc)

 

DSC00061-1.jpg

 

DSC00059.jpg

 

DSC00058.jpg

 

DSC00056.jpg

 

DSC00057.jpg

 

DSC00063.jpg

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

I5 4670k, 32GB, GTX 1070, Thrustmaster TFRP, G940 Throttle extremely modded with Bodnar 0836X and Bu0836A,

Warthog Joystick with F-18 grip, Oculus Rift S - Almost all is made from gifts from friends, the most expensive parts at least

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got my new Webcam Logitech Quickcam Connect (same as Urze)

 

That's not correct.

Just of curiosity I opened my Logitech Quickcam Connect ...

-It has no Ir filter(maybe the Chinese worker who assembled the cam had a bad day?:P)!

 

That would explain why my cam works fine right out of the box, or Logitech changed the model.

 

Whatever!

I'm very happy that you have solved your problems.:thumbup:

(you should post this issue on the Webcam compatibility thread at FreeTrack)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

-It has no Ir filter(maybe the Chinese worker who assembled the cam had a bad day?:P)!

 

The IR filter should be in the lens assembly, to open it you need to use a small flat-head screwdriver to remove the back panel that is lightly glued in place. In my case I had to damage the rim of the back panel to remove it but this damage is only superficial.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...