goslin23 Posted December 19, 2018 Share Posted December 19, 2018 Here's my 1st test at 3-D printing panels for a Warthog pit. As you can see, it's kind of rough but I believe it will be functional enough for a VR pit. I have a long road ahead with learning and building, but that's the fun part, right? -=gos=- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javelina1 Posted December 19, 2018 Share Posted December 19, 2018 Here's my 1st test at 3-D printing panels for a Warthog pit. As you can see, it's kind of rough but I believe it will be functional enough for a VR pit. I have a long road ahead with learning and building, but that's the fun part, right? -=gos=- Indeed it will! you'll learn more over time. Watch out though, 3D printing is another "rabbit hole", just like simming.... :music_whistling:;):) MSI MAG Z790 Carbon, i9-13900k, NH-D15 cooler, 64 GB CL40 6000mhz RAM, MSI RTX4090, Yamaha 5.1 A/V Receiver, 4x 2TB Samsung 980 Pro NVMe, 1x 2TB Samsung 870 EVO SSD, Win 11 Pro, TM Warthog, Virpil WarBRD, MFG Crosswinds, 43" Samsung 4K TV, 21.5 Acer VT touchscreen, TrackIR, Varjo Aero, Wheel Stand Pro Super Warthog, Phanteks Enthoo Pro2 Full Tower Case, Seasonic GX-1200 ATX3 PSU, PointCTRL, Buttkicker 2, K-51 Helicopter Collective Control Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goslin23 Posted December 19, 2018 Author Share Posted December 19, 2018 Indeed it will! you'll learn more over time. Watch out though, 3D printing is another "rabbit hole", just like simming.... :music_whistling:;):) I bought a cheap CNC machine too just to try both out. Now I just need to figure out how to cut a panel instead of printing it.. Baby steps. -=gos=- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted December 19, 2018 Share Posted December 19, 2018 Your first test looks great. Can I ask which font you used? Also is that sanding dust that's whitened the lettering? cheers John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RightStuff Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 (edited) Can I ask which font you used? Also is that sanding dust that's whitened the lettering? Looks like the MS33558 font: http://www.fontsaddict.com/font/MilSpec33558.html Even if not: That‘s a famous font used for panels. I like it. Edited December 21, 2018 by RightStuff Dead link exchanged Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killin Duck Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 Nice job ! I wonder what software you used to create the panel, I'm using Fusion 360 but the MS-33558 is not recognized... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 I was just about to respond to RightStuff with that, the font is not recognised in Fusion360, I had to go with another font for my embossed panels. Nice job ! I wonder what software you used to create the panel, I'm using Fusion 360 but the MS-33558 is not recognized... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RightStuff Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 (edited) Sorry for creating unwanted expectations by my info: The MS-Font - as TTF - ist only usuable in Windows itself. Installed as usual, you can use it any (graphics) program. Though, it's not a font which can be used directly in F360. To be honest: So far I have not tried any experiments with fonts in there... :cry: Edit: There seems to be a workaround with that kind of fonts. Looks tedious... https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-360-design-validate/installed-font-not-showing-in-fusion/m-p/6366009#M59284 Edit2: Was able to make it visible in F360 by converting it with https://www.fontconverter.org/ to OTF, but extrude failed. If anyone likes to pick up here? Edited December 21, 2018 by RightStuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goslin23 Posted December 22, 2018 Author Share Posted December 22, 2018 Sorry for creating unwanted expectations by my info: The MS-Font - as TTF - ist only usuable in Windows itself. Installed as usual, you can use it any (graphics) program. Though, it's not a font which can be used directly in F360. To be honest: So far I have not tried any experiments with fonts in there... :cry: Edit: There seems to be a workaround with that kind of fonts. Looks tedious... https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-360-design-validate/installed-font-not-showing-in-fusion/m-p/6366009#M59284 Edit2: Was able to make it visible in F360 by converting it with https://www.fontconverter.org/ to OTF, but extrude failed. If anyone likes to pick up here? Actually, the font I used was just plain old Arial in Fusion 360. I tried to DL that font too and couldn't get it to work either. -=gos=- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goslin23 Posted December 22, 2018 Author Share Posted December 22, 2018 Your first test looks great. Can I ask which font you used? Also is that sanding dust that's whitened the lettering? cheers John It was some craft paint I stole from my wife :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewnix Posted December 22, 2018 Share Posted December 22, 2018 (edited) I found this in a forum post to be able to see all fonts in Fusion360. Its third post down. Basically you place the command "Sketch.TextWritingSystem /any" In the text command box down below bottom left hit enter. And after restart you have to reinsert the command. https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-360-design-validate/can-t-add-ttf-font/td-p/6917516 Edited December 22, 2018 by Brewnix [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted December 22, 2018 Share Posted December 22, 2018 Thanks for the link RightStuff, I've used the SVG Inkspace method to do wrap around text so this will also work for this font. I'll be using a CNC for my font engraving anyway and this is all in Inkspace. Sorry for creating unwanted expectations by my info: The MS-Font - as TTF - ist only usuable in Windows itself. Installed as usual, you can use it any (graphics) program. Though, it's not a font which can be used directly in F360. To be honest: So far I have not tried any experiments with fonts in there... :cry: Edit: There seems to be a workaround with that kind of fonts. Looks tedious... https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-360-design-validate/installed-font-not-showing-in-fusion/m-p/6366009#M59284 Edit2: Was able to make it visible in F360 by converting it with https://www.fontconverter.org/ to OTF, but extrude failed. If anyone likes to pick up here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted December 22, 2018 Share Posted December 22, 2018 Thank you Brewnix, that works! I found this in a forum post to be able to see all fonts in Fusion360. Its third post down. Basically you place the command "Sketch.TextWritingSystem /any" In the text command box down below bottom left hit enter. And after restart you have to reinsert the command. https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-360-design-validate/can-t-add-ttf-font/td-p/6917516 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustBelt Posted December 23, 2018 Share Posted December 23, 2018 I found for making panels just cutting acrylic with a laser cutter did a better job. You can even back light it if you use clear acrylic. Big flat sheets of stuff aren't a 3d printers strong suit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted December 23, 2018 Share Posted December 23, 2018 (edited) I'm planning on heading down this route. How many watts is your laser to cut the outside perimeter? Do you use Inkspace to generate the paths and G-code? Apologies goslin23 for hijacking your thread. I found for making panels just cutting acrylic with a laser cutter did a better job. You can even back light it if you use clear acrylic. Big flat sheets of stuff aren't a 3d printers strong suit. Edited December 23, 2018 by Blue73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goslin23 Posted December 23, 2018 Author Share Posted December 23, 2018 I'm planning on heading down this route. How watts is your laser to cut the outside perimeter? Do you use Inkspace to generate the paths and G-code? Apologies goslin23 for hijacking your thread. No worries, if I can learn more about what I'm trying to do, hijack away! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted December 23, 2018 Share Posted December 23, 2018 Cheers :) I used white modelers putty for my Hook lettering, it works well as it's water based so clean up is easy. When I used white paint it found it's way into the 3D printed crevices. I'll try the putty technique again for the Buno plate. The top surface can be sanded smooth with a filler/primer applied to give you that smooth look. 3D printing allows for surface features not possible with an acrylic sheet. Ideally I'd like to combine laser engraving with a 3D printed plate. I haven't even began experimenting with it yet, if all else fails I'll go the acrylic route. No worries, if I can learn more about what I'm trying to do, hijack away! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustBelt Posted December 28, 2018 Share Posted December 28, 2018 I'm planning on heading down this route. How many watts is your laser to cut the outside perimeter? Do you use Inkspace to generate the paths and G-code? Apologies goslin23 for hijacking your thread. My Library has a 65W which is way overkill for Acrylic sheet. But, basically you adjust the speed for the material so it's more about how FAST you want to cut, and how fine a line you want to make. Slower is wider. I do the layup in Inkscape then save it as a .SVG then finish it off at the Library by pushing it through Adobe Illustrator in order to print. From there the Printer's Software does all the work once you set the print for the material. Almost Circuit easy, but with a 65W CO2 laser! So I cut the panel blank. Then paint it with an opaque Gloss White Enamel. Then top that with a flat top coat in the color I want. Then take it back in, set the power way WAY down and engrave just past the paint. Drill holes half way through in the back and stick LED's in and there ya go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 Thanks RustBelt for explaining the process, my laser is 2.5W LED laser so only good for engraving. My Library has a 65W which is way overkill for Acrylic sheet. But, basically you adjust the speed for the material so it's more about how FAST you want to cut, and how fine a line you want to make. Slower is wider. I do the layup in Inkscape then save it as a .SVG then finish it off at the Library by pushing it through Adobe Illustrator in order to print. From there the Printer's Software does all the work once you set the print for the material. Almost Circuit easy, but with a 65W CO2 laser! So I cut the panel blank. Then paint it with an opaque Gloss White Enamel. Then top that with a flat top coat in the color I want. Then take it back in, set the power way WAY down and engrave just past the paint. Drill holes half way through in the back and stick LED's in and there ya go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustBelt Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 It's still doable with enough patience https://jtechphotonics.com/?p=1648 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 Awesome Rustbelt, thanks for the link! It's still doable with enough patience https://jtechphotonics.com/?p=1648 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewnix Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 (edited) Thank you Brewnix, that works! NP Blue73. Sorry late reply! EDIT-Actually Blue73 how did you get it to pocket the text? Edited December 31, 2018 by Brewnix [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 Just select the text and extrude into the plate, it should auto switch to a cutting action. Cheers John. NP Blue73. Sorry late reply! EDIT-Actually Blue73 how did you get it to pocket the text? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue73 Posted January 1, 2019 Share Posted January 1, 2019 Hi Rustbelt, Does the laser cut the lettering at the correct thickness or do you need to generate a path that fills in the letters? Thanks. My Library has a 65W which is way overkill for Acrylic sheet. But, basically you adjust the speed for the material so it's more about how FAST you want to cut, and how fine a line you want to make. Slower is wider. I do the layup in Inkscape then save it as a .SVG then finish it off at the Library by pushing it through Adobe Illustrator in order to print. From there the Printer's Software does all the work once you set the print for the material. Almost Circuit easy, but with a 65W CO2 laser! So I cut the panel blank. Then paint it with an opaque Gloss White Enamel. Then top that with a flat top coat in the color I want. Then take it back in, set the power way WAY down and engrave just past the paint. Drill holes half way through in the back and stick LED's in and there ya go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustBelt Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 The laser I use treats cutting and engraving as diffrent things, for cutting you make a 1px wide line and set the print output to cut. For engraving it fills in everything filled in a scan line pattern. You do two separate operations, either etch first then cut, or cut then etch. I cut then etch since I take it home and paint it up first then etch as a separate operation. I'm assuming it's all being done by the print driver as I'm sure the actual printer just gets x,y,z and laser intensity data fed to it from the software. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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