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F18 radar elevation


FoxDelta

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Hi, I'm interested in purchasing that mod when you make the kits available, as it is something that I've been missing in the Warthog throttle since day one. Especially since the old Suncom F15 throttle had it...

Which made me think: on the F15/Suncom throttle, the antenna elevation is on the left throttle. Would such a mod be easier to design/manufacture/install ? Or is the right throttle easier to open/modify anyway in your opinion?

 

right is easier in regard of mounting(screw holes) , but the most important thing was that i didn t want to add any usb board or similar, so the right side offered more possibly connections for those 2 buttons needed

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  • 4 weeks later...

If anyone wants to get this working with the coolie hat diagonals you will need a couple diodes between the hat switches.

Without this trying to wire it as suggested by FoxDelta would leave the hat unable to work in the four main directions, you'll always get a diagonal no matter what you press.

 

As for the Microswitches for the elevation rocker, i used Omron B3F-1022 which require only 1.47N of force to press so you don't need a lot of pressure to hold it depressed but still get a nice little click.

There is an even lighter 0.98N variant in the B3F-1020, but i imagine you lose even more tactility at that point.

 

Lastly i suggest to not use the cheapest print service you can find, my parts didn't turn out terribly great and the manufacturer hid the defect side of the rocker part in the photos i had to sign off on before shipping, luckily ABS is easy to rework :music_whistling:

jx7juGKh.thumb.jpg.f21047da849b2c654f4dc720750e1346.jpg


Edited by Nopileus
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If anyone wants to get this working with the coolie hat diagonals you will need a couple diodes between the hat switches.

Without this trying to wire it as suggested by FoxDelta would leave the hat unable to work in the four main directions, you'll always get a diagonal no matter what you press.

 

As for the Microswitches for the elevation rocker, i used Omron B3F-1022 which require only 1.47N of force to press so you don't need a lot of pressure to hold it depressed but still get a nice little click.

There is an even lighter 0.98N variant in the B3F-1020, but i imagine you lose even more tactility at that point.

 

Lastly i suggest to not use the cheapest print service you can find, my parts didn't turn out terribly great and the manufacturer hid the defect side of the rocker part in the photos i had to sign off on before shipping, luckily ABS is easy to rework :music_whistling:

 

many thanks for your help on this, as i wired it at up and down only, myself, the 45° idea was brought up and i couldn t mention why this wont work the same way as on the coolie hat. many thanks for your solution again.

 

print services are nearly useless for this parts, i tried to get those parts to provide it in the shop printed by professionals but wasn t able to get workable prints.

 

At the end i had to print the parts for the radar elevation set that i offer on my home printer. medium quality, but not that bad. the design is refined as well, for a better look, will update the thingiverse files as soon as i find some time

 

just being curios, how much did the print service take for your parts?

IMG_20200529_194659.thumb.jpg.1c5c2a5084a3196e45f4b88bad00104b.jpg


Edited by FoxDelta
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I went through a website called treatstock, paid a rather amusingly low €13 including shipping so i'm not all complaining, got what i paid for. (printed on a prusa i3mk2 in ABS)

They effectively broker you to enthusiasts with home printers like yourself.

 

The problematic part was the rocker, the housing parts fit well.

You can see how the rocker cross section is scalloped when the STL file showed it flat

nZ4aYnjh.thumb.jpg.64b2938b0c2bb944aa5505b986a74e04.jpg

mf8lP1R.thumb.jpg.6f79a3c952e2e08e3d0b6ebbb4a509d8.jpg


Edited by Nopileus
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I went through a website called treatstock, paid a rather amusingly low €13 including shipping so i'm not all complaining, got what i paid for. (printed on a prusa i3mk2 in ABS)

They effectively broker you to enthusiasts with home printers like yourself.

 

The problematic part was the rocker, the housing parts fit well.

You can see how the rocker cross section is scalloped when the STL file showed it flat

 

Thats really cheap!!!

i guess unbeatable at the end, mine is much more expensive. considering time needed and shipping/paypal costs.

 

the grey part is easy to print, no clue why yours got that worse.

best would be to order the grey wheel in natural grey MJF, that would provide best grip, but sets u back at least 5€+shipping at all services i know, but u may find a better offer as u did with the other parts

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Printer must have had a bad day, the manufacturer i chose had hundreds of reviews that all include pictures of the parts which looked pretty good.

I'll use the rocker as is for now anyway, after some sanding to enhance the ridges it's fairly grippy.

 

My only real worry with the design is the lid, it get's awfully thin where the groove for the rocker is and once screwed down flexes a little in that area.

Maybe ABS is just a little soft for that purpose, if i remember right PLA is a bit more stiff and brittle.

Should i run into issues i'll go ahead and order your parts, it's too good a feature not to have.

 

I also flung one of the sliders across the room which prompty disappeared into another dimension, i rebuilt my own from sheet styrene :thumbup:


Edited by Nopileus
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Printer must have had a bad day, the manufacturer i chose had hundreds of reviews that all include pictures of the parts which looked pretty good.

I'll use the rocker as is for now anyway, after some sanding to enhance the ridges it's fairly grippy.

 

My only real worry with the design is the lid, it get's awfully thin where the groove for the rocker is and once screwed down flexes a little in that area.

Maybe ABS is just a little soft for that purpose, if i remember right PLA is a bit more stiff and brittle.

 

the cover is slightly changed in the new version, but what u describe is most likely related to slicer settings, the thinner the layer heights the more layers there and more stiffnes at the end.

at the picture few posts above u can see that i shrinked the cover and enlarged the main housing to make i fitting better.

 

many thanks for your feedback and pictures, always like to see others doing the mod

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  • 2 months later...
If anyone wants to get this working with the coolie hat diagonals you will need a couple diodes between the hat switches.

Without this trying to wire it as suggested by FoxDelta would leave the hat unable to work in the four main directions, you'll always get a diagonal no matter what you press.

 

As for the Microswitches for the elevation rocker, i used Omron B3F-1022 which require only 1.47N of force to press so you don't need a lot of pressure to hold it depressed but still get a nice little click.

There is an even lighter 0.98N variant in the B3F-1020, but i imagine you lose even more tactility at that point.

 

Lastly i suggest to not use the cheapest print service you can find, my parts didn't turn out terribly great and the manufacturer hid the defect side of the rocker part in the photos i had to sign off on before shipping, luckily ABS is easy to rework :music_whistling:

 

Which type of diodes did you use?

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  • 2 months later...
If anyone wants to get this working with the coolie hat diagonals you will need a couple diodes between the hat switches.

Without this trying to wire it as suggested by FoxDelta would leave the hat unable to work in the four main directions, you'll always get a diagonal no matter what you press.

 

 

When I press the coolie hat in a diagonal position, and then release, I cannot avoid that a non-diagonal signal is sent upon release (e.g. if I press Up-Right, the Warthog correctly sends the Up-Right signal, but when I release, there will always be either a Right or Up signal sent before it goes back to neutral). Isn't that a problem for you when you assign a diagonal signal in DCS ? I mean, don't you always get an unwanted non-diagonal signal when you release the wheel ? Or is it too quick (too brief) to be detected ?


Edited by Pyker
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When I press the coolie hat in a diagonal position, and then release, I cannot avoid that a non-diagonal signal is sent upon release (e.g. if I press Up-Right, the Warthog correctly sends the Up-Right signal, but when I release, there will always be either a Right or Up signal sent before it goes back to neutral). Isn't that a problem for you when you assign a diagonal signal in DCS ? I mean, don't you always get an unwanted non-diagonal signal when you release the wheel ? Or is it too quick (too brief) to be detected ?

 

Nope, i have not seen that happen with this solution.

 

Since you're activating both inputs with the same physical switch there shouldn't be any difference in time between them, thus you only get the diagonal.

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  • 2 months later...

Hi!
I see your mod and really apreciate that.

Can i ask you if you can share the fusion file?

I would like to print it but attaching it to the other side of the gap (always between the throttle)
The aim is to use the 2 position of that ugly lever switch on the far left of the throttle (since i did not use it)

 

Thank you very much for your work and your sharing ideas!

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  • 2 years later...
On 5/29/2020 at 6:16 PM, Nopileus said:

If anyone wants to get this working with the coolie hat diagonals you will need a couple diodes between the hat switches.

Without this trying to wire it as suggested by FoxDelta would leave the hat unable to work in the four main directions, you'll always get a diagonal no matter what you press.

 

As for the Microswitches for the elevation rocker, i used Omron B3F-1022 which require only 1.47N of force to press so you don't need a lot of pressure to hold it depressed but still get a nice little click.

There is an even lighter 0.98N variant in the B3F-1020, but i imagine you lose even more tactility at that point.

 

Lastly i suggest to not use the cheapest print service you can find, my parts didn't turn out terribly great and the manufacturer hid the defect side of the rocker part in the photos i had to sign off on before shipping, luckily ABS is easy to rework :music_whistling:

jx7juGKh.thumb.jpg.f21047da849b2c654f4dc720750e1346.jpg

 

Nopileus is there any chance you could share how you wired everything up. I can solder but I am not sure what to connect and what not. A detailed picture or a plan would be nice. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/29/2022 at 6:36 PM, Jackalger said:

Nopileus is there any chance you could share how you wired everything up. I can solder but I am not sure what to connect and what not. A detailed picture or a plan would be nice. 

You actually aren't the first person who asked, i'll just copy what i sent the last one, they figured it out.

Quote

One side of both elevation switches is connected together and goes to ground (yellow on the hat), the other side you connect to two diodes as shown and connect the ends of the diodes to the signal pins of two neighboring switches on the hat, just do this twice.
I think the picture i posted before should be enough to work it out, the thicker orange and blue wires (and the striped one on ground) are the ones i added. Make sure the diodes are the same way around as shown.

514730019_Screenshot2021-08-31214630.jpg.c065e304c3be3fc22234c5002478b7e6.jpg

 

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  • 4 months later...
On 1/20/2020 at 6:06 PM, FoxDelta said:

question to all interested in this MOD

 

presently i am considering doing a redesign of this MOD

features:

 

-non invasive (no drilling needed)

-housing a leo bodnar nano board, so this will need its own USB port

-because of limited space it will only provide radar elevation up and down nothing further

 

 

Would you be interested in such a MOD, or is this something worth the effort?

What do u think?

 

Heya - did you ever end up making that non invasive design? 

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