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F18 radar elevation


FoxDelta

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Printed everyting. Turned out pretty well.

You did glue in the tactile switches, correct?

 

Best regards

 

they fit quite well, u re right to keep em in place i added a drop of ca glue

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looks great!

 

I would personally swap out the two buttons for a potentiometer.

 

i thought about using a poti but than the recentering would be pretty useless and it won t operate close to the real thing

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I have a question and a request. I plan to do this mod, but I'll be wiring it to an ardunio.

 

Question: What size tactile switches were used? Anyone got an amazon link or something?

 

Request: Can you make the same type of mod for the left throttle side? It would be super useful to have two of these types of wheels: 1) for radar elevation and 2) zoom view (I dont like to use the slider/dial for that)


Edited by Guppy
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Just fyi. I have the 6x6x4.3 switches and they did not seem to make contact with the adjustment lever. Just ordered a set of the 6x6x5 and will see how those work.

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Just fyi. I have the 6x6x4.3 switches and they did not seem to make contact with the adjustment lever. Just ordered a set of the 6x6x5 and will see how those work.

 

hi DERacing, what stops your wheel from pushing the switches?

I used the switches laying around in my electronics box so it might be 4.5 or 5 switches but that should not matter.

I will check the files, in the meantime u can trim the federschieber. stl a bit or sand the noses on the wheel if those are blocking.

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  • 3 weeks later...
STL files for download

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dctsac67egwlzzk/AADQRie7ggOyvsE54mQnepWda?dl=0

 

DISCLAIMER: appplying this MOD will definately VOID your WARRANTY, be aware!

 

.

 

First of all thanks again for this new mod for the WH Throttle!! I already printed it and now waiting for the 2 micro buttons to arrive.

 

I was thinking on a way to avoid voiding the warranty, and the only way I can see is by printing the whole right lever sidecover with the lower body of the radar elevation merged into it, but for this to work you have to replicate very precisely the side cover and that is way over my actual 3D design capabilities. So if anybody have the skills and willings to do it, it would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Pablo

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I finally got around to getting the parts printed up and they work really well. I made a slight alteration and added a bearing onto the pivot and it works amazingly smoothly now. Thanks for taking the time to make these parts available.

 

Andy

u re welcome, good idea regarding the bearing i will consider this when revisiting the design

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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys,

 

First, fantastic work fox!

My 3d printer just arrived and - as soon as I am able to print with it :D - I would like to create this mod.

 

I already created several components in Fusion360 but this is the first time I import something and the scale is waaaaay off - If I put it into Cura, it shows me 60cm in the Z-Axis.

 

Do I have to scale the model?

Did I mess up the import?

I just clicked on "File - Open" and opened your *.STLs

 

Thanks!

 

BR,

kreisch

 

Edit: Nevermind, this is, as it seems, a bug in Fusion 360.

At least I finally found this one: https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-360-design-validate/why-are-fusion-dimensions-10x-greater-on-imported-stl-files/td-p/5439722


Edited by kreisch
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You need to define the right measurement system within fusion 360.

How to change Units in Fusion 360

 

Doesnt your 3d Printer come with a software? If you dont want to change anything, you don't need fusion 360 at all. Just drop the STL into your 3d Printer software and generate the g-code.

 

Btw. When you are done changing the model, right click on the body --> Save as .STL ;)

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Hey guys,

 

First, fantastic work fox!

My 3d printer just arrived and - as soon as I am able to print with it :D - I would like to create this mod.

 

I already created several components in Fusion360 but this is the first time I import something and the scale is waaaaay off - If I put it into Cura, it shows me 60cm in the Z-Axis.

 

Do I have to scale the model?

Did I mess up the import?

I just clicked on "File - Open" and opened your *.STLs

 

Thanks!

 

BR,

kreisch

 

Edit: Nevermind, this is, as it seems, a bug in Fusion 360.

At least I finally found this one: https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-360-design-validate/why-are-fusion-dimensions-10x-greater-on-imported-stl-files/td-p/5439722

 

congrats to buying a printer giving u endless possibilities

 

As far as i remember you will have to import STLs as mesh. give it a google. beside that Gruman is right, just import the STLs in your prefered SLICER eg CURA and slice it to GCODE

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Thanks for your help, after trying to leveling my printer correct, the first case is almost done :D

 

Could please someone give me photos of the wiring? Currently I try to figure out where to lead the cables out of the case to my arduinos.:smartass:

 

Edit: Nevermind - I updated the models and modified it.

 

As soon as I see it working properly (not before this weekend) I will keep you updated and upload my files as well - all credits remain to FoxDelta, very good idea! :)


Edited by kreisch
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  • 1 month later...

Hey,

 

Sorry for the push but since this is something "new" and I promised to deliver something - new post:

 

I made some changes to the original files:

I added space for cables, bearings, an additional button (Don't ask me why, did not found a usage yet ;) ).

 

The main reason was to "get used to 3D Modeling".

 

Feel free to use it or...basically ignore it ;)

 

BR,

kreisch

RDR_ELEV_V1.zip

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new post:

 

I made some changes to the original files:

I added space for cables, bearings, an additional button (Don't ask me why, did not found a usage yet ;) ).

 

The main reason was to "get used to 3D Modeling".

kreisch

a pic would be nice

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  • 3 weeks later...

question to all interested in this MOD

 

presently i am considering doing a redesign of this MOD

features:

 

-non invasive (no drilling needed)

-housing a leo bodnar nano board, so this will need its own USB port

-because of limited space it will only provide radar elevation up and down nothing further

 

 

Would you be interested in such a MOD, or is this something worth the effort?

What do u think?


Edited by FoxDelta
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I would be interested in such a mod, especially in the non invasive part of it.

 

But I'm not really into housing an external board to control the I guess posible analog axis. This is probably also what makes the non invasive a viable thing. Probably a lot of people will like this feature since it opens the door for a lot of new possibilities for adding more switches/butttons/axis and controlling them from this new board.

 

I'm fine in using buttons for the radar elevation and connecting them to the diagonal positions on the 8 way hat, in order to have them mapped within the warthog controller and not to a separate device (leo bodnar, arduino or other new board).

 

thanks for you work, great mods!

 

Pablo

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I like the idea. How would you route the usb cable?

Would like the idea even more, if the buttons would be replaced by a centered analog axis (Hall Sensor and a Magnet).

The firmware for the nano board could be setup to output the axis plus two buttons, which are activated at >50% of axis travel. :smartass:

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I am all in for non invasive!!!

Intel i7 9700k, 64GB DDR4 (Corsair), Gigabyte Z390 Master, RTX 2080 Ti AMP 11gb, 500GB Sabrent Rocket (System), 1TB XPG Gammix S11 Pro M.2 (DCS), Windows 11 64-bit Pro, Samsung 49" 4K CRG9 Monitor (5120x1440), Samsung Odyssey Plus, TrackIR 5, Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas, Various streamdecks, button boxes, Logitech Pro Rudder Pedals, Corsair K95 Platinum, Iron Claw mouse.

DCS OB, F-14B Tomcat, F-18C Hornet, F-16C Viper, A-10C Warthog, F-5 Tiger II, AV-8B Harrier, P-51D Mustang, FC3, Super Carrier
 

Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas, (3) Cougar MFD's, Logitech Pro Rudder Pedals, (2) Stream Decks, (1) Stream Deck XL, (1) Stream Deck Mini, Misc Button Boxes

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Like all your designs. Will be ordering the finger lifts when back in stock.

Have you a wiring diagram to wire diagonal positions on the 8 way hat.

 

simply wire each button yellow on one contact and two nearby coloured ones to the other contact. the cooliehat itself consists of 4 single buttons, 45degrees are registered when two nearby ones are pressed at the same time eg orange+black, red+brown

IMG_20200128_113055.thumb.jpg.5ea58bb9bde7cbc4e524bc54682049d5.jpg


Edited by FoxDelta
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Do you need to completely disassemble to throttle to take off the side of the throttle to mount the casing to it?

 

no u don t, on the innerside upper part:loose the 3 screws, lift the lever to its maximum and loose the 2 sxrews at the very lower part, they are hard to reach but its doable. as far as i remember there is an additional small screw on the outer side of the upper part as well. thats it

 

then u can remove the inner cover

 

for a noninvasive version all those wont be needed

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  • 3 months later...

Hi, I'm interested in purchasing that mod when you make the kits available, as it is something that I've been missing in the Warthog throttle since day one. Especially since the old Suncom F15 throttle had it...

Which made me think: on the F15/Suncom throttle, the antenna elevation is on the left throttle. Would such a mod be easier to design/manufacture/install ? Or is the right throttle easier to open/modify anyway in your opinion?

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