Jump to content

T16000M RZ Axis Jumping to right


keithBud

Recommended Posts

My Thrustmaster T16000M RZ axis is pulling to the right. In DCS, you can see the rudder jumping over to the right side. This is not specific to DCS. I went in to the device manager and could see the bar for the RZ axis popping up and then going down and popping up again. I cannot turn it to the left. Any thoughts on fixing this?

 

Thanks in advance,

Keith

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you have the pedals plugged in to the throttle, right?

 

in windows, "type here to search", "set up USB game controllers." If the same stuff is happening without windows running, try a different USB port. If that doesn't work, update drivers and mobo bios. If that doesn't work, I'd suspect a hardware problem.

 

If it works in windows without DCS running, unplug any other controllers, if you have a game controller plugged in, lose it. Go into DCS and make sure you don't have two things mapped to the same axis (which is probably the problem).

Ryzen 5600X (stock), GBX570, 32Gb RAM, AMD 6900XT (reference), G2, WInwing Orion HOTAS, T-flight rudder

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went in to the device manager and could see the bar for the RZ axis popping up and then going down and popping up again.

 

This symptoms suggest a bad potentiometer "spiking", a common issue in T.16000M "twist rudder".

 

If re-calibrate - use Tm software or DView, and set deadzones don't mitigate the problem. :joystick:

 

Option 1 - Open the grip, remove the potentiometer from "twist" mechanism, open pot case - caution or end destroing then, clean the resistive trail with Isopropyl Alcohol (liquid or spray), reassemble - caution with wires, or grip shelves can smash some wires. This is a palliative, soon or latter the problem return, is inherent of potentiometer.

 

Example of how is done this inside cleanup:

Spray the outside of pot case outside cleanup spray is placebo.

 

 

Option 2 - Replace the potentiometer, the model used is CTS 251B12T104A2NB, is need weld three wires.

 

Option 3 - Replace the pot with Hall sensor - DIY, require tools, skill and patience.

 

Option 4 - Buy a dedicated rudder pedal :D or sell this stick as is and buy Gladiator Mk.II their twist axis use contacless sensor, free of spiking issues.


Edited by Sokol1_br
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...