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AV-8B N/A UFC - 3D Printed


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the lcd‘s is a real problem for that ufc. i am planing to get my own pcb design made for this though, and not do a prototyping board like you did.

 

the big display does indeed fitt pretty well with a 1x16 lcd, and you might be able to have the pcb go below the button next to it if you plan it well.

because if all that i am not starting any printing before i finished my design.

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On 6/17/2021 at 10:38 AM, Vakarian said:

image.png

 

 

Could you use tact switches with longer stems to bridge the gap you are experiencing?

 

Sorry for the late reply. The Idea which you have is not bad, but you have to think the other way around. You need switches with shorter stems.  When you look the "sandwich" there is a gap of about 2 mm. The printed buttons are already touching the push buttons in order to have no movement. If you longer the the stems now, it would push the back even further away, thats why I need a spacer between those two layers. Which is not printed yet as my friend is busy currently. 🙂

IMAG0841.jpg

IMAG0842.jpg


Edited by KonusVector
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On 6/17/2021 at 5:19 PM, Wisky said:

the lcd‘s is a real problem for that ufc. i am planing to get my own pcb design made for this though, and not do a prototyping board like you did.

 

the big display does indeed fitt pretty well with a 1x16 lcd, and you might be able to have the pcb go below the button next to it if you plan it well.

because if all that i am not starting any printing before i finished my design.

Can you link those LCD´s as I only find 1x16 lcds with a hight of 33mm which not fitting. Thx a lot!

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Amazing work!

 

Really apricated the will to release the files.

 

I am going to print this for VR purposes, to get it as front panel over head for proper position. Just requires some invention to get it come over head (so nothing is on the front section otherwise). 

 

 

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Just  a short update. For all who are interested in the spacer I have to print, here are the STL Files for appx. 2mm and 3mm with additional distance holders. With this that the spacer is always correctly adjust to the matrix and not moving around anymore while glueing it. Disadvantige of it, when ever you have to remove the PCB it will be blocked from the distance holders.

 

Greetings!

Spacer 3mm example.jpg

Matrix Spacer 2mm.stl Matrix Spacer 3mm.stl


Edited by KonusVector
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  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Got the 3D printed files laying on my table for 6+ months, so I figured it's time to try to get the electronics side fixed... 

I did look through the number of PJCR forum threads to regain as much knowledge as I can as I haven't done anything like this since high school... Could anyone take a look and see if the wiring diagram makes any sense? Main idea is to use 16 channel multiplexers to take care of the push buttons, and then wire everything else directly to teensy board

AV-8B UFC-Test KiCad.png

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Am 23.2.2022 um 14:40 schrieb mattjonesgr9:

I've got this far and really pleased with it so great work !!! 

Will you update the design / cad files as the hud control panel is the same width as the man ufc panel ?

20220220_160607.jpg

That looks nice. Did you cable it already? If y maybe give us an inside. I am planning currently all switches and pottis etc. with an array of shift registers to use at the end only a arduino nano or uno 🙂 But i am beginner in this stuff so might not end  like i want.

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  • 3 months later...

image.png

Oh man - all my text got deleted. So here’s another attempt:

 

 

im thinking about taking the plunge and will strive to get the same end result as above. Printing is “straight forward” my issue are the knobs / buttons / rotary switches and switches.  
what size are these ? What am I looking for specs wise? Is there a resource to study to find this out and not buy the wrong stuff? 
 

thanks

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Here's what i managed with normal tactile switches, made the pcb on the cnc and all wired up to an arduino

Edit: attached another pic of the switches and pcb to give a better idea of what i mean (ignore the messy wires haha)

IMG_4132.jpg

IMG_4149.jpg


Edited by n00dle
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  • 3 weeks later...

complete noob question ; the buttons have two prongs per side ; the switches have three ; are there any tutorials or guides on how to best solder them and make sure they function properly ? first time Im doing it 

 

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10 minutes ago, Thanatos31 said:

complete noob question ; the buttons have two prongs per side ; the switches have three ; are there any tutorials or guides on how to best solder them and make sure they function properly ? first time Im doing it 

 

As a basis, if you don't have any tool to check continuity, you are gonna have hard time figuring it all out.

Those tactile switches. There are 4 pins, and 2 on each side are shorted. For ease of use, let's say that one side of the shorted pins is "+" and other side of shorted pins is "-". That way when you press the button those two sides establish a connection. Hope this helps you in figuring out tactile switches.

For the toggle switches common configuration is that middle one is ground and two other are live. Then when you flick the switch on either side connection is established and should be wired accordingly.

 

The base of where you start is to look at the datasheet of the equipment you get and start laying out schematic on paper to get the general idea first and then do some testing on the breadboard. Do all this before you start doing any of the stuff "for real" because it will make your troubleshooting easy. Understand how each component needs to be wired and read on any microcontroller that you will use and just scale it up. That's how I started with mine. Got one button, one encoder, one potentiometer and wired it to breadboard in steps (button first, then added encoder and then added potentiometer). Each time I've built upon what I knew was working so it I got into trouble I could easily step back, find and fix the issue and continue.

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Thank you ! This helps a lot. 

 


plus I read up on the leobodnar joystick board I’m getting. 

 

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Team - getting to the point for screws and mounting decisions. 
 

how did everyone solve that? How did you combine the upper& lower ? 

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