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AV-8B N/A UFC - 3D Printed

obious

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Vakarian

Vakarian

Posted
Posted (edited)

Here's how I've done it. Red brackets were 3D printed, second image is test fit to make sure it all works together and third is final fit.

Through those holes in the brackets M4 screw goes through and screws in the metal inserts placed in MDF board.

UFC is being held by screws going in from back side into the inserts in the UFC bottom plate while MFDs are screwed directly into MDF using wood screws.

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Edited by Vakarian
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KonusVector
KonusVector

Hi all,    I am following this topic already some weeks and I am first of all thanks for the template of the UFC of the Harrier and going to donate some bucks for your work. So here is my

mattjonesgr9
mattjonesgr9

I've got this far and really pleased with it so great work !!!  Will you update the design / cad files as the hud control panel is the same width as the man ufc panel ?

obious
obious

Hi All,   Long story short, after buying a 3D printer over Christmas I thought I'd get to grips with how to generally design things and how to print them. I've learnt over the past 3-4 weeks that my

Thanatos31

Thanatos31

Posted
Posted

Team- im getting somewhere.  Just the mini switches to solder and I can mount. 
 

here’s another question for best practices though -

I‘ve been using m3x12 for the „button“ matrix - but they don’t really „bite“ into the plastic. 
many advice or ways you solved this? 
 

 

 

E4854056-74B1-4889-91E3-B3DA855BBF85.jpeg

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raus

raus

Posted
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On 10/11/2022 at 7:10 AM, Thanatos31 said:

I‘ve been using m3x12 for the „button“ matrix - but they don’t really „bite“ into the plastic. 
many advice or ways you solved this? 

Use threaded inserts, and pres them in with a solder iron: https://www.ruthex.de/collections/gewindeeinsatze/products/ruthex-gewindeeinsatz-m3-100-stuck-rx-m3x5-7-messing-gewindebuchsen

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n00dle

n00dle

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Posted

I use brass standoffs and m3 nuts&bolts. Requires some forward planning to build them in without causing spacing issues but they work well.

Random ODU mockup to show what i mean. The brass standoffs sit between the pcbs and the other bits, then i just put a screw through the whole lot and it secures them togther. Then a nut on the other side if needs be, like in this image the nut would be on the back side of the pcb where the standoffs stick through. Hopefully that makes sense!

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Main_Build_2022-Oct-17_08-42-36PM-000_CustomizedView34178548481.png

 

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obious

obious

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For those still following this thread/project, I thought I'd turn my attention to putting together a custom PCB after spending the last few weeks learning how to design them for my F-18 build. I'm yet to send them for manufacturing as I have a few things still left to tidy up but I'm getting pretty close.

I've designed these to fit within the UFC housing that I've made available right at the top of this thread and will expect the PCBs alone to cost around £20-£30 in case anyone is thinking of buying any (low volume manufacturing means I'll have a fair few spare 😞 ).

I'll also be producing a LED-less version that uses purely 6x6mm tactile switches to save on the complexity of soldering and overall cost. Note that both version won't have space/be designed for any segmented displays (I primarily fly in VR). 

Edit: In case anyone is wondering, these are designed to be plugged directly into a Leo Bodnar USB interface board (or equivalent breakout board) and will share a common ground connection

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obious

obious

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3 hours ago, Thanatos31 said:

That’s awesome ! Keep us in the loop !!

Will do. I sent them for manufacturing last week and the UPS tracking says they’ll be delivered this week at some point. Once they arrive I’ll wire one up and report back. 

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obious

obious

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Small update. I found some time to dry-wire the non-LED version of the PCB (images below). All the switches etc fit perfectly. 

As I said a few posts ago, I've got a bunch of these going spare so if anyone wants one of these (or the LED version), just shoot me a message! 

 

image0.jpeg

image1.jpeg

image2.jpeg

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opassac

opassac

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Hi guys. I built a F16 UFC a year ago and been using it with almost all of my modules. I recently found this thread and though it would be feasible to also build a Harrier UFC. But i find the ODU almost indispensable to use in conjunction with the UFC. Anybody knows of a 3d model of a ODU? thanks...

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Thanatos31

Thanatos31

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Posted
On 3/17/2023 at 4:37 PM, opassac said:

Hi guys. I built a F16 UFC a year ago and been using it with almost all of my modules. I recently found this thread and though it would be feasible to also build a Harrier UFC. But i find the ODU almost indispensable to use in conjunction with the UFC. Anybody knows of a 3d model of a ODU? thanks...

Try this, I’m redoing this design, but should work. 
it’s made for buttons with 12mm diameter threads

 

ODU VR.stl

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opassac

opassac

Posted
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Thanatos31 said:

Try this, I’m redoing this design, but should work. 
it’s made for buttons with 12mm diameter threads

 

ODU VR.stl 1.04 MB · 4 downloads

Thanks thanatos. Meanwhile i started designing my own in fusion, using Obius matrix as a base. When it is finished, printed and tested i will upload here also...

image.png


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opassac

opassac

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Posted

Ok mates, here are my stl files for a ODU. I used Obius matrix and Erl work for the button, ( https://www.printables.com/model/44175-av8b-na-harrier-ufc-buttons ). My initial plan was to bolt the m3 screws directly to the plastic, but i didn't liked the final product, so i used some nuts on the top.

Hope it helps and feel free to change any thing...

Av8B ODU.rar

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obious

obious

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For those still following along, I've started to update/redesign the housing STLs to accomodate the PCBs (early renders below) and to make it slightly more accurate. I've hit a bit of a snag though; after selling my Chiron in the summer I now no longer have a printer big enough to print the main housing body. I was hoping the new Prusa MK4 would manage it but it looks like it the build plate is too small.

Does anyone know of any '3D printers for hire'-type of services here in the UK? I remember a good few years ago that I had an STL printed via some website that in effect connected my with someone who was willing to print STLs via their printer at home for a small fee but I can no longer find it. 

Failing that, I'm happy to partener with someone who has a printer big enough to do some PoCing!

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IMG_5750.JPEG

 

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Paladin71

Paladin71

Posted
Posted

I have a question on the button matrix. I'm really new to making something like this. My question is are diodes required when wiring up the button matrix to prevent ghosting? If so, what type of diodes should I use? What value should they be? I also remember seeing somewhere that resisters could be used, but I wouldn't know what value resisters to use either. 

 

I currently have all of my printing done except for the knobs, which I'll print after my electronics arrive this weekend. I'm really looking forward to getting this up and running. 

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obious

obious

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On 6/16/2023 at 11:49 PM, Paladin71 said:

I have a question on the button matrix. I'm really new to making something like this. My question is are diodes required when wiring up the button matrix to prevent ghosting? If so, what type of diodes should I use? What value should they be? I also remember seeing somewhere that resisters could be used, but I wouldn't know what value resisters to use either. 

 

I currently have all of my printing done except for the knobs, which I'll print after my electronics arrive this weekend. I'm really looking forward to getting this up and running. 

I use Leo Bodnar interface boards so there’s no need for resistors/diodes etc except for the LEDs 

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No1sonuk

No1sonuk

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40 minutes ago, obious said:

I use Leo Bodnar interface boards so there’s no need for resistors/diodes etc except for the LEDs 

The BU0836A needs diodes for its matrix. If you buy the matrix breakout board, it has the diodes built in.

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Paladin71

Paladin71

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Sorry for the late reply. Life getting in the way. First, Thank you guys for the quick response. I have some Arduino Pro Micro boards on hand that I was going to use. That's  why I asked. I did a little more digging and found I could use 1N4148 diodes. It wasn't real easy to find. Hope this helps others out.

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labyrinthum

labyrinthum

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On 6/1/2023 at 5:11 AM, obious said:

So I think I’m finally getting around to finishing this project. Here’s the latest design changes, I’ve modelled as closely as I can based upon reference images.

Reading though the forum and I've got to say, you've done some amazing work here! I am considering buying one of the PCBs to make this project a bit easier, would it be possible for you to upload your updated files?

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HR-Crumble

HR-Crumble

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Hey all, firstly what a great thread thank you to the OP and others for keeping it going.
 

I’m new to this so I’m starting small - I’m looking at just doing a ‘half UFC’ at first - essentially just the Harrier key pad within a 3d printed frame and box and two rotaries on the bottom. 
 

Would someone mind pointing me in the right direction as to how I create/purchase the key pad board circuitry underneath? I’ve used the STLs in this thread to print the keys them selves. 
 

KR,

 

Matt

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Sierra99

Sierra99

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Posted

OK...

Two Questions...

Which Leo Bodnar Board is Plug and Play?

Second can ya post a parts list for the Lighted Switches, Resistors etc?

I am VERY impressed with how this is going together! I don't think I have ever received a "Hobby" Board this well thought out and clean...



 

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