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T. HOTAS Warthog Throttle not Recognize by the PC


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Hello all,

 

I have a problem with my HOTAS Warthog throttle.

 

Yesterday, during a regular day of flying I surprised to see that my throttle was not recognized by the PC. I didn't disconnect it before, so it's a bit weird.

 

I have all the drivers for the throttle located on your website installed on the PC.

 

I checked if maybe the TARGET System recognizes it but it didn't.

 

I don't know why but I have 5 Green LEDs turning on, also when my PC is off.

 

See Photo at https://prnt.sc/s35x3x

 

It's a bit weird because when the throttle connected to any USB device all the 5 Green LEDs turning on but the throttle itself is not recognized by the PC.

 

It does not seem that there is an issue with the throttle's USB because it gets power from the PC.

 

I searched a lot on Google for any solution but unfortunately, nothing helped.

 

I tried to solve it via Thrustmaster's Manual "How to wake your HOTAS Warthog if it is no longer recognized on PC" it didn't work.

 

I have the latest Windows version, the latest driver for the throttle. The joystick and T. Rudder are working right now.

 

I sent an email to Thrustmaster's support.

 

Does somebody know what to do?

 

Thanks

 

Itay Levi

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Try a different usb port, if that does not work reboot the system.

Motherboard ASUSTek TUF Z390-PLUS GAMING (WI-FI)

Processor Intel i5 9400

Memory VENGENCE PRO RGB 32GB

Video Card # 1 GIGABYTE NVIDIA GEFORCE GTX1660 6GB GDDR6

Power Supply Thermaltake GOLD 850 RGB

Sound Card NVIDIA HIGH DEFINITION AUDIO

Monitor 1. Vizio 32" 2. Samsung 32" 3. Samsung 32"

Operating System Windows 10 64 Bit build 19035.1

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I would poke around in Windows Device Manager and see what i could see . If it doesn't show up at all , I would try "scan for new devices" . If it does , i would click on it and poke around some more . I would also double-check the bindings in DCS , (prolly first) and try uninstalling Target . If none of that works , i would assume a hardware problem .


Edited by Svsmokey

9700k @ stock , Aorus Pro Z390 wifi , 32gb 3200 mhz CL16 , 1tb EVO 970 , MSI RX 6800XT Gaming X TRIO , Seasonic Prime 850w Gold , Coolermaster H500m , Noctua NH-D15S , CH Pro throttle and T50CM2/WarBrD base on Foxxmounts , CH pedals , Reverb G2v2

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Unfortunately some Warthog throttles have been known to brick.

Hopefully that is not your case but could be a possibility. I had the original one I bought shortly after it was released brick on my about 3 years ago.

Don B

EVGA Z390 Dark MB | i9 9900k CPU @ 5.1 GHz | Gigabyte 4090 OC | 64 GB Corsair Vengeance 3200 MHz CL16 | Corsair H150i Pro Cooler |Virpil CM3 Stick w/ Alpha Prime Grip 200mm ext| Virpil CM3 Throttle | VPC Rotor TCS Base w/ Alpha-L Grip| Point Control V2|Varjo Aero|

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  • 9 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

hi all,I also have this problem. I contacted thrustmaster,and have learnt this is a hardware problem, and a unit inside the throttle will need to be replaced. The driver update will NOT  sort out this problem. You have a number of options..1 send the unit for repair to the recommended engineer either in Europe or the usa..$90 is the cost. But if you need to replace the defective board inside, this will add more costs. I dont know how expensive this will be. Also the cost to send the throttle will cost me around $70..so I personaly find this not viable due to the cost..so I am replacing my throttle with another, hopefully a better maybe the VIRPIL..good luck to you all.

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Not to beat a dead horse but I bought a broken thrustmaster throttle with the purpose of gutting and rebuilding with another controller. Plugged throttle in 5 lights solid green at top doesn't recognize in the USB. I ran across the bootloader trick reloading firmware I guess. So for 50bucks broken throttle bought off ebay. Used the "Boot Loader Method" brought back to life the throttle. Just a thought if you have not tried it.


Edited by Brewnix
  • Like 1

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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My problem was solved after contacting support and sending a new PCB. Replacement is not complicated, however, the sealed original connectors gave a bit of careful work. But I managed it too and the whole operation took me 5 minutes. And the lever is like new. Please do not unplug the USB cable while the PC is on and do not use USB hubs.

 

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I had both my throttle and stick brick on me about 4 years ago when I tried a firmware upgrade via the Thrustmaster site. After much gnashing of teeth and research I found a suggestion that using an old PC might allow an install of the old firmware drivers via the bootloader method. After more gnashing of teeth and a little wailing I found on old PC in a storeroom at work. I flashed it up plugged in the Warthog Throttle and Stick and installed the old firmware drivers. It worked!! Something to do with USB versions IIRC.

 

Suffice to say, I have since stayed well away from any firmware updates and my Warthog is still giving me sterling service!

 

I hope this info may help some of you out there before you go to the expense of returning parts to TM or indeed buy a new setup altogether.

 

Regards,

 

WB.


Edited by Whiskeybravo
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  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

I have tested my TMWH HOTAS and T Rudder setup Using control Panel/Devices & Printers, ( R click on either Hotas unit select Game controller settings, and then item to test or calibrate then follow instructions displayed. All good so far, TMWH is talking to my computer. However, once I start DCS, only Pitch, Roll and Yaw respond. I have mapped and remapped the keys but nothing seems to work. Track IR is fine and happily mapped, When moving Throttle and RPM settings they appear to be moving the rudder pedals and no other Axes or key mapping works, I have spent the last 3 days trying to resolve this and am lost as to what to try, I have  swapped USBs into different slots with no change, and re booted more times than enough. (just realized I have not tried swapping into my USB hub. Wait out, I will try, and come back to this regardless of what happens

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  • 11 months later...

Heya. Had issues with both joystick and HOTAS over the course of ownership (even replaced some buttons myself!).

But what you are describing sounds like the firmware is lost. Good news is, it's a simple fix!

Check this doc here: https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/pc/hotas/manual/HOTAS_Warthog/HWarthog_Bootloader_Method.pdf

Now, I will say, for SOME reason I can't explain, some USB ports on my PC WOULD NOT get the HOTAS enough power to function or be fully recognised by Windows. I opted for a Powered USB hub, which gave the unit enough juice. But for both events of where the Joystick or the HOTAS wouldn't be recognised I did the firmware bootloader method. 

1. install latest driver pack, don't plug anything in, restart

2. as per instruction, depending on your device, hold down the 2 buttons indicated in the doc, and plug in your device. And hey presto! it flashes the firmware back to the stick or hotas and windows is happy again!

3. you for sure should not think your USB ports are all working "ok"!! From a providing power to the device stand point (those LED's clearly need juice...). So before you bin your lovely setup, just get a power USB extender and try that.

Hope this helps chaps! So fed up with the constant fixing of things and not getting to PLAY, but it's a necessary evil it seems :)

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  • 1 year later...
On 3/4/2021 at 7:06 PM, Brewnix said:

Not to beat a dead horse but I bought a broken thrustmaster throttle with the purpose of gutting and rebuilding with another controller. Plugged throttle in 5 lights solid green at top doesn't recognize in the USB. I ran across the bootloader trick reloading firmware I guess. So for 50bucks broken throttle bought off ebay. Used the "Boot Loader Method" brought back to life the throttle. Just a thought if you have not tried it.

 

I also just bought one on eBay as a bargain, which was sold as defective (device is not recognized). But all attempts to reload the firmware (bootloader method) failed. I have tried 3 different computers, different USB hubs, tested the Cable etc. 
What was noticeable, however, was that it was recognized at least with an unpowered USB HUB, but with the error message that windows could not start the device and it didn't appear in the Firmware Loader.

What finally brought the throttle back to life was to soak the pins of the Chip and the USB section (resistors and capacitors next to where the usb-cable is soldered to the board) in soldering grease and then simply heat them up with an SMD rework station (250°C) for about 3-4 minutes. Now it runs again without any problems. The rework station is a cheap china one (858D) for about 35€ from Amazon. 

 

Hope this helps. 


Edited by Cornelius
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