Jump to content

Curves Used With The UH-1H Huey ?


Basco1

Recommended Posts

I am currently having another go at the UH-1H,after a long lay off,but I am curious at what,if any,curves the community are using with it.

 

Any set control curves set up help would be really appreciated.

Chillblast Fusion Cirrus 2 FS Pc/Intel Core i7-7700K Kaby Lake CPU/Gigabyte Nvidia GTX 1070 G1 8GB/Seagate 2TB FireCuda SSHD/16GB DDR4 2133MHz Memory/Asus STRIX Z270F Gaming Motherboard/Corsair Hydro Series H80i GT Liquid Cooler/TM Warthog with MFG 10cm Extension/WINWING Orion Rudder Pedals (With Damper Edition)/TrackiR5/Windows 11 Home

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried zero curves, zero saturation for a long time. Partly because it was recommended by others and partly because I have quite a good, sensitive joystick.

 

I did experiment setting curves zero and saturation to 75% or so and enjoyed that a lot, but since max speed requires stick full forward and resetting the trim is a nuisance, I dropped that. I like to calibrate trim for hover on take off and use it for landings during the mission rather than repeatedly re-trim.

 

However, recently I set curve to 10% and saturation back to 100%. I'm enjoying that. Can hover easily, maneuver easily and still get full range. The stick doesn't feel very curved, but the extra sensitivity near center is better for me.

 

I experimented with rudder (read tail rotor) positive and negative curves but find no curve is fine for rudder. The UH-1 rudder is not that powerful so I understand why some like negative curve for more power effect.

 

My personal recommendation for UH1 (other choppers really need different setting) is leave 100% saturation and then set lowest curve on X,Y as you need to hover / aim acceptably.

 

Or if you can use an extended stick, you won't need any of this but will enjoy much better control like real pilots.

 

EDIT:

Old discussion on Redit:

Chuck's Guide tends to set quite large curves. Strong curves change the 'feeling' and can affect trim use.


Edited by DimSim
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found when starting out a fairly high curve was good, 30...

 

As time went on I lowered it, because the movement required for a controlled reaction was too much. I still fly it with 20, for a desktop stick.

 

I always leave saturation at 100 so I have the full range.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea, I also started with high curves, 25% on all but the "rudder" and trimming a lot, gives really fine control for hovering. Then as I got more practice I started to incrementally lower the curves. Now Im at 15% with an old saitec cyborg evo desktop stick.

Huey. Intel X5660 4,2ghz, 24gb ddr3, gtx 1060 6gb

AJS37. Cyborg evo

Yak 52. Opentrack ir

KA-50

P-47

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys,I really appreciate your input here,there's some great information here thumbup.gif

Chillblast Fusion Cirrus 2 FS Pc/Intel Core i7-7700K Kaby Lake CPU/Gigabyte Nvidia GTX 1070 G1 8GB/Seagate 2TB FireCuda SSHD/16GB DDR4 2133MHz Memory/Asus STRIX Z270F Gaming Motherboard/Corsair Hydro Series H80i GT Liquid Cooler/TM Warthog with MFG 10cm Extension/WINWING Orion Rudder Pedals (With Damper Edition)/TrackiR5/Windows 11 Home

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi,

 

 

I read You got Warthog with 15 xcm extension, so You do not need any curve, just lineary. But try to change saturation to70-80% fot collective. I have noticed is more 1 to 1.

 

Interesting... I have a Warthog with a 20CM extension and while I had to invert because of how I mounted the base, it seems to work great. The collective is where I’m coming to an issue with using the left throttle as the throttle and the right throttle as the collective. I’ll use the saturation you recommend for the collective, now just got to figure out the throttle. I have to use the mouse to “twist” the throttle before I can use the left Warthog throttle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the Warthog with 20cm extension. I wouldn't recommend any deadzone or reduction or curvature on any axis. Reducing the travel could bring you into trouble where you need the travel range. E.g. collective, reduction here steals you travel range in an autorotation. I don't use ingame trim(release) in helicopters. Centering forces with the 20cm extension are neglectable.

But as with all here, do as you like.

 

Fox

Spoiler

PC Specs: Ryzen 9 5900X, 3080ti, 64GB RAM, Oculus Quest 3

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I´m not using any curves and I fly that thing damn stable. But I use Trim a lot. This is something people tend to underestimate. Some say they disable trim at all which they shouldn´t do.

 

My Axis settings

jKq0PqT.png

DCS-Tutorial-Collection       

BlackSharkDen - Helicopter only

Specs:: ASrock Z790 Pro RS; Intel i5-13600K @5,1Ghz; 64GB DDR5 RAM; RTX 3080 @10GB; Corsair RMX Serie 750; 2x SSD 850 EVO 1x860 EVO 500GB 1x nvme M.2 970 EVO 1TB; 1x nvme M.2 980 Pro 2TB+ 3 TB HDD

Hardware: Oculus Rift S; HOTAS Warthog; Saitek Rudder Pedals, K-51 Collective

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I´m not using any curves and I fly that thing damn stable. But I use Trim a lot. This is something people tend to underestimate. Some say they disable trim at all which they shouldn´t do.

 

My Axis settings

jKq0PqT.png

 

 

@ Basco1

If you use controls with a center spring, trim is an imported help.

 

If you like, send me a private message or come on DISCORD https://discord.gg/CXCA7rf . We may meet at the training server.

One hour supervision. eliminates many issues and opened up a safe fast way to learn further alone.

Always happy landings ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Long term it's best to use no curves if you want precision across the full range. Curves only help when your stick is centred yet they hurt when your stick is moved further. They also mess with your "muscle memory" and learning to fly by feel over time.

Pimax Crystal VR & Simpit User | Ryzen CPU & Nvidia RTX GPU | Some of my mods

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a TM:WH that I cut a loop out of the main spring in with a 4” extension. No curves or dead zone set. The centering action is light enough that I never use trim either. I also use a very balanced collective that make a big difference in precision control. I’m working on a set of pedals now because the Saitek ones are not great for heli flying.

John

Asus ROG C6H | AMD Ryzen 3600 @ 4.2Ghz | Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce WB 1080ti | 32Gb Crucial DDR4/3600 | 2Tb Intel NVMe drive | Samsung Odyssey+ VR | Thrustmaster Warthog | Saitek pedals | Custom geothermal cooling loop with a homemade 40' copper heat exchanger 35' in the ground

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the Warthog with 20cm extension. I wouldn't recommend any deadzone or reduction or curvature on any axis. Reducing the travel could bring you into trouble where you need the travel range. E.g. collective, reduction here steals you travel range in an autorotation. I don't use ingame trim(release) in helicopters. Centering forces with the 20cm extension are neglectable.

But as with all here, do as you like.

 

Fox

 

 

Hi

 

 

As I said before got 10 cm extension to warthog and use with no centering spring, just remove spring, so I don't use ingame trim, ofcourse I have to all time keep cyclic but my muscle memory is much better. In my opinion using ingame trim teach as bad habit. Now my cyclic is almost like "spon in butter" :), I feel much more the heli in all phases of flight.

 

 

I tried 20 cm extension but for me it was to long with original warthog base, maybe with Virpil base it will be OK.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...