Building a new MonsterTech rig

[RogueSqdn]

Short version is in my signature.

 

I also just got a shipping notice for my Reverb G2, it will be here on Monday.

 

 

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[DerSchattenJager]

I assembled my rig last night. Took longer than I expected, but finally completed around midnight!

 

I need to work on cable management. I am in awe of how you can’t see a single cable for your HOTAS and pedals. How did you hide those?

[RogueSqdn]

Lots of Velcro straps and zip ties. Cables are mostly between the cockpit and the floor.

 

But then again, I’m used to hiding cables. In a past career I worked for Time Warner Cable. :thumbup:

 

 

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[DerSchattenJager]

It’s impressive how you can’t even see the cables coming out of the devices themselves. That’s some black magic!

[RogueSqdn]

Well, I just got my first few flights in instant action with the new system. This is still with the Rift S, the G2 will be here Monday.

 

I can turn settings way up, use OTT to force ASW off, and rarely get below 60 fps, and most of the time peg 80. This is with 1.5 supersampling in OTT and none in DCS, the IC shaders mod, and visibility range to ultra. Before I averaged around 30 fps in the air and 15 on the ground, with most settings turned down.

 

So the FPS and increased settings are the good thing. The bad thing is resolution is still limited since it's the Rift S, and there won't be anything I can do about that for a few days. :)

 

I'll see in the morning how it does with a mission with a lot of objects in it.

[Der SchattenJager]

I finally found time to post pictures of my rig. Check it out: 

 

[RogueSqdn]

Over Christmas I decided to rearrange things a bit.  The impetus was twofold:
 
1) Get the computer away from the wall, allowing better cooling.
2) Make it easier to unplug the Reverb G2 when not using it.
 

 
 
 
I now have some benefits here.
 
1) The computer being further away from me and from the wall reduces the amount of noise I hear from it when in VR.  The right side panel of the computer is aluminum with sound dampening foam installed.  I had been using aluminum on both sides to reduce the noise, but now I can use the glass panel on the left side, allowing the interior and the lighting to show.
 
2) When the computer was back near the wall, if I needed to unplug/replug the Reverb G2, I had to pull the whole computer towards me to reach behind it (the computer is on a small board with wheels attached).  Now, I can just lean forward in my seat and unplug the USB C cable from the USB A adapter.  This also prevents WMR from opening at startup.
 
3) I've been able to eliminate one of my two USB hubs from the equation.  I use a 13-port Anker hub with a power switch (only 8 ports are being used).  I've now been able to mount it on the right side of the cockpit behind the armrest mount, on the chair mount rail.  I can now simply reach down and hit the power switch to shut everything off, instead of reaching forward for the front hub, and stretching behind the cockpit for the rear hub.
 
4) I've been able to further reduce visiblity of wires and cabling.  I now have only one cable sleeve stretching from the rear of the cockpit to the power strip at the wall, containing only four wires:  the Reverb G2, two power cords (one for the computer itself, another three prong one for the speakers, TV, and Reverb G2, and a CAT5 cable going to the wall).
 
5) I've been able to move the trash can to the other side of the cockpit, reducing clutter.
 
6) I've been able to reduce the amount of wires run all the way from the front to the back of the cockpit to just five:  the four mentioned above, and a USB 3 cable going from my hub at the seat to the back of the computer.  This will more easily allow me to slide a small floor mat under the foot area of the cockpit if I so choose later on.
 
 
 
You may also note the lack of the Tartarus Pro.  I keep that in one of the plastic drawers behind me now, unless I want to play an FPS (which I haven't in months).  The reason is that with Razer's current drivers, if I plug it in with all of my other controllers plugged in, it will cause a few of my other controllers to disconnect, making it practically useless in DCS.  I've had to come up with other ways to do what I was using it for.  I've run a small USB extension cable from the hub over to the left side, allowing me to quickly plug the Tartarus in if I need to.

 

The only other thing at this point that I think I may do is find a power strip with a long enough cable to reach from the front of the cockpit all the way to the outlet.  That would allow me to move the power to the front of the cockpit, under the rudder pedals, and further reduce wiring.  Any suggestions on that?  (I would need a cable from power strip to wall of between 12-15 feet).

Edited December 27, 2020 by RogueSqdn

[Voodoo_One]

On 8/8/2020 at 8:55 PM, RogueSqdn said:

Lastly, at least for now, a photo of my other stick grips, mounted on display posts that I found on Thingiverse and printed.

 

 

You got maybe a link? Could be useful for me too, but I cant find anything on Thingiverse - Maybe even deleted by now...

[RogueSqdn]

Try this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3780737


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[Voodoo_One]

14 hours ago, RogueSqdn said:

Try this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3780737


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Thanks. The Search on thingiverse is quite... broken it seems. Depending if you are logged in or not you get different results. And even when I was logged in I couldnt find that thing when searching for thrustmaster warthog, hotas, etc.

[DutchCoolHand]

I like your setup Rogue! it is compact and functional. I have been designing a similar setup in recent day with 80/20 design software. I was wondering, your pedals seem relatively high in relation to your seat. I got a playseat and had it in the floor, my legs were knees high and caused cramps in my hips. I have gone back to my office chair for now until I build my 80/20 setup. I have been working on different designs using different sizes of 80/20. Using 40/80 and 80/80 makes it quiet expensive.

Edited December 29, 2020 by DutchCoolHand

[RogueSqdn]

Thanks.  I try to keep things as simplified as possible.

 

The pedals are high up for one reason:  to get my arm to be able to rest on my thigh when using the center stick grip.  I found that when the pedals were lower, there would be a large gap and my arm would get tired.

 

Real cockpits with center sticks are generally set so the arm can rest that way.

[DutchCoolHand]

That makes sense, I don’t use an extension so I don’t have the issue.what are your thoughts on using 30mm frame parts instead of 40mm. I would think they are strong and rigid enough. You have your TV on 40 frame right?

[RogueSqdn]

Yes, the Monstertech display stand is made of 40x40mm tubes.  The cockpit has 40x40, 40x80, and 80x80 pieces depending on the strength needed.

 

I'm not sure if making an entire cockpit out of 40x40 would work out.

[DutchCoolHand]

Do you see your tubing flex? I just wonder as this tubing is designed with the different internal structures that it would now flex. Just trying to make it less expensive.

[RogueSqdn]

I have not seen any of my profiles flex at all.  Keep in mind they aren't completely hollow, there is supporting aluminum on the insides as well.

[DutchCoolHand]

Because of the internal structure I think I can go to a smaller size.

 

thanks

 

 

[Der SchattenJager]

I noticed you have what appears to be velcro straps around some of the profiles to keep the cables in the channels. Have you considered using the t-slot covers that 8020.net provides, such as these: https://8020.net/40-2110.html?

 

I remember you mentioning that you have most of the peripheral cables going under the base frame. How are you securing those? I don't see any straps around it.

[RogueSqdn]

I actually started looking at slot covers this morning, coincidentally. The cables on the floor aren’t secured at all, just hidden.

Ordering straight from 8020 seems the most cost effective so far but I’m going to look around a bit more. I also need the make an educated guess on the amount needed.

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[Der SchattenJager]

On 1/5/2021 at 10:19 AM, RogueSqdn said:

I actually started looking at slot covers this morning, coincidentally. The cables on the floor aren’t secured at all, just hidden.

Ordering straight from 8020 seems the most cost effective so far but I’m going to look around a bit more. I also need the make an educated guess on the amount needed.

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I'm in the same boat and doing the exact same thing. I'm just going to order them from 8020.net. Looks like the stock length is about 72", so I'm going to order a handful and cut them where needed.

[Zerostar]

How did you physically mount the wingwing throttle to the 8020?  I'm currently building a similar flight rig.

[RogueSqdn]

3 hours ago, Zerostar said:

How did you physically mount the wingwing throttle to the 8020?  I'm currently building a similar flight rig.

 

Monstertech has a mount available for it.

[RogueSqdn]

First new photo in quite a while... I'm made some changes over the last few months and thought I'd highlight them:

 

 

First, a few months back I got the Razer Blackwidow v3 Mini Hyperspeed keyboard.  This seems to be the sweet spot for me, a 65% board.  I get to keep my arrow keys and the board is small enough to not be a pain to pick up and put in my lap to type.  Thankfully, the pain I was experiencing in my left elbow has largely subsided over the last 6-8 months.  Last week I ordered the new Phantom keycaps for it (a pudding type set that Razer put out).  Also on the Razer front, I've added some of their grip tape to my Naga Pro.  The docking station sits atop the vertical post on the left side, but has to be plugged straight into my powerstrip instead of the computer (as is the keyboard charging cable).  I find that 1-2 joysticks will disconnect from Windows if more than two Razer devices are plugged in at a time.  I use the same wireless dongle for both the keyboard and mouse, and the Tartarus Pro is the second device plugged in.

 

Second, on the right side, I've gotten a Razer Goliathus XXL mousepad and cut it down to match the right tabletop.  Looks like time to clean some dirt off it!

 

Third, underneath that tabletop, I've mounted my old VPC T-50CM throttle in order to use the switches and knobs.  I don't use the throttle handle, it's pushed all the way forward, though I do occasionally use the toggle switch on the left throttle.  I use the two axis knobs for rudder trim and HMCS brightness, and use the encoders for stuff like SAI uncage and radar altimeter knobs.  I use the guarded toggle for ejection seat arming.

 

Fourth, just yesterday, I had the Simshaker Jetseat arrive.  I've tested it in 2D briefly to ensure it works, but haven't flown it in VR yet.  The very first thing I did after pulling it out of the box was to use a seam ripper to take the patch off the seat back. Originally it wasn't supposed to arrive until Monday, but I'm glad it came on Friday.  Give me the whole weekend to use it!

 

Fifth, I've gotten a replacement set of TPR rudders and adjusted my rudder platform to be perfectly horizontal.  I've also gotten an old unused piece of 1/2" thick black plastic sheet from work and cut it down to be a new rudder platform.  It's bolted to the 8020 profiles under it, and the pedals are screwed into the plastic with lag bolts and washers.

 

Sixth, I got a pair of wall speaker mounts from Amazon and mounted them to the TV stand posts to get them off the floor.

 

Seventh, I've added a small 9-key Koolerton keypad in front of my center stick.  I use this for the ESC menu, briefing, pause, time acceleration, and ejection seat handle.  I'll come up with other uses over time.

 

Eighth, I've added a small USB volume control knob behind the throttle on the left side.

 

Lastly, I've mounted the Monstertech wheel set underneath the cockpit frame.  This allows me to shift the frame around a bit, which is handy in VR.  I find my natural seating position doesn't always keep my view centered in VR.

 

 

I think that about covers it!

 

 

 

 

Edited August 21, 2021 by RogueSqdn

[The LT]

Nice, looks pretty similar to what I came up with, thanks for the advice and for the measurements. Are you mounting the winwing panels with their stock mounts? Recently got mine and came up with the same idea of offsetting the keyboard a bit to the left with a small extension profile.

[RogueSqdn]

Thanks.  Yes, the Winwing panels are using their default mounts.  The vertical post is mounted to the side of the base instead of the top as Monstertech's directions state.  I originally did that to provide more leg room for wide rudder pedals.  After getting the Winwing panels, I had to extend the keyboard tray out to the side to clear them.

 

I've also moved my Koolertron panel today from the center post to a spot right behind the side stick, so I can drop my hand off the stick and quickly tap the buttons.