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My desktop A10 mini-pit


gardnerjr

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Back in like March, Amazon had the warthog hotas setup on sale. I've been interested in those for years for other stuff, and i knew that a new version of MS Flight Simulator was coming, so i jumped on that. When they came, i installed them and looked for things to play. I'm really embarassed to say i'd never even *heard* of DCS before that. I found it randomly on steam and OMG i've been hooked! I've played FS2020 some but i've put a lot of time into learning how to fly the A10C, going through the basic flight qualification and now the advanced one.

 

As i play more and more of these mission's i've wanted more and more things on my desk... I found the cougar MFD's randomly on ebay, and then saw the buddy fox UFC somewhere (youtube?) before finding the Warthog Project (RomeoKilo) and this forum!

 

So as with anything, it started off small...

50288321863_e5d047819c_c.jpgUntitled by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

the MFD's and the UFC on a piece of leftover 1/4" plywood...

 

Then i foundout you could export the screens from the real mfds to a real monitor, and found a monitor on amazon (interestingly, if you look up the mfd's on amazon, it suggests a monitor apparently a lot of us are using!) So i double sticked tape the MFD's and utc to the monitor and my simpit adventure began

50289145257_257c72a011_c.jpgUntitled by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

 

My general thought process...

  1. Has to fit on the desk, between me and the monitor. - i use this as my work from home (all the friggin time now) so it can't be a dedicated pit
  2. Have mfd's and as much instrumentation as possible
  3. Lots of cool switches/etc.
  4. Look semi-realistic

Ideally:

  • Can fly without a keyboard at all
  • Can get through startup with minimal mouse
  • Mostly functional/usable with FS2020 too, not just DCS

After that, i started looking up random things online, joystick boards, pre-built panels, and got a panel from pcflights.com, and mocked it up as cardboard:

50288321783_c452bfdfa6_c.jpgUntitled by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

Then i started building. had a bunch of leftover plywood/wood from other household project. Had an unused powered usb hub i can use inside, some ideas.

 

50289145047_e57bcc2663_c.jpgUntitled by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

some paint and some test fitting:

50289145507_ed57d28b8c_c.jpgUntitled by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

 

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And things began. Then i got some plexi to fill in the front panel and started mounting the MFD's and the panel i had:

50288321993_5bf28b44a6_c.jpgUntitled by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

i got a joystick board from desktop aviator to do all the switches and got all that working, and that other switch on the left side was for landing gear.

 

AND THEN I FOUND THIS FORUM and @romeokilo 's posts, and his youtube videos and omg i was just.... i literally can't even!

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I saw RK's landing gear panel setup, and that was my next project. I wish i had time (or space, and the knowledge required) to run a laser cutter setup, so i bought another pcflights panel for the landing gear, and stole his idea of using a RC car shock to make a landing gear lever:

 

50288321283_76ec98d41d_c.jpgUntitled by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

I laminated several layers of plexi together and cut it out to make a landing gear lever and knob, with a hole drilled through it to run wires and an LED. this is when i then learned how to use an Arduino and DCS-BIOS. I've been a programmer professionally for more than 20 years but had never done any real hardware projects, and was a little intimidated by the thought of this. but OMG, the people who set up DCS-BIOS did an amazing job. i had a panel set up with the flaps gauge, landing gear transit light, the landing gear status lights in like what, 5 lines of code?

 

50288997126_8fec7629fb_c.jpgUntitled by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

The landing gear panel and switches was then hooked up to the joystick board in the hud & armament panel and i had mostly working panel:

50288321878_9afd896b13_c.jpgUntitled by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

then i needed backlighting!

 

 

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I got a giant roll of 5v usb powered led strip lighting, and started playing with it

 

50407173876_399f104b96_c.jpgUntitled by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

Soldering is another one of those things i'd done *some* of, but i'm not very good at it. To this point, it's all just "wiring" things up, hooking things up to pins on various boards. But now for the backlighting i'm going to have to cut up the LED strips, and wire them back together, and figure out how to dim them (they're WAY too bright, it's amazing what even 5v can do!

 

Here's where i also dug into and used more of the stuff i learned from RomeoKilo's warthog project about making individual panels and using motherboard standoff's to layer things. in my original idea i just was going to put the strip lihts in the back of my "panel", but the light was very inconsistent.

 

50407326782_fa8b0f71aa_c.jpgUntitled by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

I found a usb dimmer circuit somewhere online (amazon? ebay?) and wired that into the panel so i can dim the backlighting:

50406470368_5ca58a9c2e_c.jpgUntitled by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

(you can see the dimmer knob right behind the UFC, and yes, the UFC isn't really in there straight. it's just double-stick taped to the panel there, i need to fix that. the pics make it seem WAY more off than it is?)

 

But man, look how empty the right side of the panel is. i have to do something about that!

 

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i wasn't sure what i wanted to put on the right side, but my first guess was the hydraulic + fuel gauge panel. My brother in law has a vinyl shop, so i had him print some stickers for me to try on that side and to fill in some of the blank spaces (again, by stealing more things that RK has posted:

 

50607554773_61e5e599e6_c.jpgMore panel stuff by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

i cut out various parts for the glare shield and fire pull handles and put them on too, and it really adds a little realism.

50607554783_0d2d4740b1_c.jpgMore panel stuff by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

But the fuel gauge takes up a LOT of space for how much i'd use it. so i decided to put the electrical panel there. So i got another panel from pclights and cut it down to fit (at this point, i *almost* should have just bought a laser cutter to start doing my own panels? aaaalmost)

 

Here's the partial fuel panel/partial electrical panel (and canopy controls)

50558211536_6dfd361c43_c.jpgDone with the mini simpit? by John Gardner, on Flickr

the joystick board for the left side of the panel is all used up (20 switches/buttons) so i had to buy another one to run the right side of the panel.

 

I also cut and drilled out a cylinder to make a jettison button, and then tried to figure out how to do the engine fire cutoff pull handles.

originally i wanted to mount some pull switches where the decals are, BUT, the top edge of the monitor for the MFD's is there, so there's literally no space there to do it.

 

So i randomly found some yellow LED ringed pushbutton toggle switches on ebay:

50558335482_20a18f7923_c.jpgengine fire lights on by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

The fire cutoff lights and buttons are wired up to the same Arduino as the landing gear setup, and now the nano is pretty much full on that side. When the fire light is on, the light ring lights up, and i can press the button to "pull" the handle, and press it again to "push" the handle back in.

 

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In action pic trying to AAR:

50607575883_b91018c847_c.jpgTrying to AAR with the A10 by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

What's next? since i have the fire switches elsewhere, the fake pull handles are taking up space. I'm thinking to remove those and make backlit sections for gun ready/nosewheel steering/canopy unlocked/etc in that spot as well.

 

Underneath the mfds, im thinking about doing pushbuttons+lights for the nmsp panel to have egi/tacan/ils buttons/etc. Not really shown in any of the pics is how i have the hotas now in monstertech knockoff mounts. i'm also thinking about making a fuel panel but also adding the SAS switches to that and mounting that with the throttle. I also have a mini keyboard mounte on the top of the throttle mount that has all the F keys and esc/pause so i can pretty much do all the startup+radio without having a real keyboard at all.

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What did I end up with?

  • Functional MFD's, with screens behind them
  • UFC
  • Landing gear panel with functional flaps gauge, gear and transit lights, with 2 mostly unused buttons repurposed to lamps test and takeoff trim
  • Armament/hud panel with all but 2 switches functional
  • Mini fire handles with lights, fire extinguisher, jettison, canopy buttons
  • Power + partial fuel panel, no gauges
  • Adjustable backlighting
  • I can do a LOT of the A10 startup on the panel and throttle.
    • Things missing: CDU/EGI switches, countermeasures panel, pitot heat, SAS switches, radios

If I were to start over, but stay desktop:

  • I'd make it one more "section" wider.
  • Each section would be ~1/2" wider
  • I'd make it another inch taller and deeper
  • If I had a little bit more room, I'd use a monitor a little big bigger, so I can have ADI, HSI gauges in-between the MFDs
  • A 10 port or more usb hub? the one i have is FULL and one of those ports appears to only supply power, no data (powers the monitor at least!)
  • Possibly build a right side mini panel that mounts to the desk like the thottle and stick, with countermeasures, cdu, ils, tacan?
  • A radio panel (possibly reusing an existing one, not building from scratch)

Parts list:

  • 7 Port powered USB hub, using all the ports (amazon, had for years and wasn't being used)
  • UFC (buddy fox)
  • Thrustmaster MFDs (ebay)
  • Monitor (amazon)
  • Landing gear, Armament, Power panels from pcflights
  • 2 2045 joystick cards from DesktopAviator
  • 1 Arduino Nano
  • Lots of On-Off, On-Off-On, (On)-Off-(On), On-Off-(On) toggle switches (pcflights?)
  • Lots of mini pushbutton switches (ebay?)
  • 2 micro roller switches (ebay)
  • 1 5 way rotary switch (pcflights?)
  • 1 RC car shock (amazon)
  • LED dimmer circuit (amazon)
  • 5v green LED strip lights (amazon)
  • 3 yellow LED toggle pushbuttons (ebay)
  • Lots of wire, dupont connectors (ebay/amazon)
  • Lots of brass motherboard standoffs, screws (ebay/amazon)
  • Lots of plexiglass (home depot/lowes?)
  • Leftover 1/2" plywood from other projects
  • Green, black spraypaint
  • Various size wood screws
  • Various M5 bolts/nuts/machine screws

Tools used:

  • Benchtop band saw for cutting small wood, plexi
  • Benchtop sander
  • Drill, driver
  • M5 tap
  • Wire cutter
  • Automatic wire stripper (got one of these before getting into the project, it is life changing!)
  • Dremel-like rotary tool
  • Jig saw
  • Lot of little tools, calipers, punch,

Things learned:

  • Programming / using an arduino - I thought this would be WAY harder than it was. I've been programming since junior high, so I wasn't intimidated, but man, DCS-BIOS made this so trivial it isn't even funny. Kudos to those guys, it is an amazing setup.
  • Soldering - I'd done some before, mostly soldering wires together, replaced some capacitors in an LCD TV, but this included soldering a lot of small things like small wires to the LED strips, and soldering a header onto one of the 2045 boards to power the LEDs
  • Crimping dupont connectors - ugh, even after doing like 100 I think I still have like a 50% success rate. Maybe I have a cheap kit, but I've gotten way better
  • It would be nice to have room for a laser cutter and 3d printer, then I'd just laser cut/print a ton of this stuff instead of cutting, sanding. - but that also would require a lot more upfront planning and layout. That's not how I usually build things :D

 

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oh i know. i've built other woodworking projects and projects and this is one that i enjoyed being out building stuff, and now using it. as i get more and more into dcs and the a10 i'm realizing how useful some of the things would be to have. i think a CDU is above my skill level given the circuit boards and things i see people making in othe threads, but i'm REALLY tempted to do that one too! i'd love to have space to do a more full center console and instruments, but that won't happen until kids here start going to college... and then i won't have the money to build that :D

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oh i know. i've built other woodworking projects and projects and this is one that i enjoyed being out building stuff, and now using it. as i get more and more into dcs and the a10 i'm realizing how useful some of the things would be to have. i think a CDU is above my skill level given the circuit boards and things i see people making in othe threads, but i'm REALLY tempted to do that one too! i'd love to have space to do a more full center console and instruments, but that won't happen until kids here start going to college... and then i won't have the money to build that :D

 

R

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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today i started making a little ejection handle thing to mount on the throttle. i'm not sure *how* i'm going to do that but we'll cross that bridge when we get to it. i started with Flim's plans for the ACES II seat, and resized the sizes down 75%. used a bunch of leftover 1/2" and 1/4" plywood scraps i have from other projects:

 

50654737458_82d470c56c_c.jpgUntitled by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

painted up and mostly assembled:

50655472761_cd001af1ae_c.jpgUntitled by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

i started trying to figure out what switches that i have that i can use for this (i really want to just hook up a switch to the ejection arming lever to get rid of one more thing i need to click with the mouse for startup!), not sure i'll actually hook up the ejection lever, but maybe?

 

the thing i've run into so far is that these wood levers are really light. WAY lighter than i thought they'd be, so they're light enough that they don't hold any of the switches i have "down". so i might have to find some lead weights or something to put into the handles so they have enough mass to hold down a switch? i also need to do a little more painting/etc to put stripes/info on them to make them look more realistic, and figure out how i'm going to mount this to the throttle. in a couple weeks i think i'm going to make that fuel panel that would be just forward of the throttle, maybe i'll encorporate this into that for mounting. otherwise, there's always double stick tape :D

 

 

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Maybe embed magnets in the two sides to hold them down?

 

oooh, magnets. that's a good idea! i could glue a little magnet on one side and probably just a screw into the other side. and it wouldn't be a lot of weight for no reason.

 

it is pretty much the exact right size, and is light enough to double stick tape to the throttle:

 

50659924527_d18c72e470_c.jpgUntitled by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

some more progress today, my wife had out hobby paints for something else, so i tried adding some details. i can't paint the white text small enough, so i ordered some white on black labelmaker tape for that.

 

50659830971_9b3afb3092_c.jpgUntitled by John Gardner, on Flickr

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

updates for the new year!  its taken a bunch of my vacation time, but i now also have a fuel panel set up with the throttle.

 

got a custom made fuel panel from pcflights.com that also includes the 4 SAS switches at the bottom of the panel.  made a wood frame for it out of leftover stuff i had, and some plexi sides and back, and backlighting for the panel from leftovers before.  the dial for the fuel lights is actually hooked up to an LED dimmer control that controls the lights inside the panel itself.  so the dial "works" in that it does *something* it just doesn't do what it is intended to do 🙂

 

 

50754232712_7c44547355_c.jpg

 

painted up, even though nobody will ever see inside:

 

50754232717_3f5736d9cb_c.jpg

 

opened up the throttle, took out the bottom plate and extra weights, and cut a piece of aluminum to fit the throttle and fuel panel.  drilled and tapped holes in it, and the throttle then screws down to the plate, and the wooden fuel panel is screwed down to the plate through the bottom of the aluminum plate, and the aluminum plate is drilled and tapped to mount on the original plate that came with the the desk mount.

 

50797483087_8822c4f2eb_c.jpg 

 

now that there's a panel there for switches, i also have the ejection arm level and ejection handle hooked up, and as @No1sonuk suggested, used magnets to hold down both handles.  there's also little ones in the tops of both that makes the lever "lock" to the ejection handle when disarmed as well.  the magnets are probably one size too big, as they both require a fair amount of force to get moving (good for the ejection handle i guess? 🙂 ).  the switch for the ejection handle was scavenged out of a dishwasher repair i did this break as well.  i also "repurposed" the top 3 switches to be CDU, EGI, and pitot heat, so that i can do pretty much all of startup (aside from radios and NMSP) without using the mouse.  i bought a logitech radio panel, but it arrived DOA, i'm thinking about sticking that to the left side of this panel, i still have one open usb spot inside the hub inside to plug something into.

 

Here's the full setup so far.  am tempted to do a right side one with the countermeasures, warning panel, cdu, but there's no way i'm building a CDU.  when one of you guys builds one for sale like the UFC, i'll totally buy it and do the rest of the right panel 😄

 

50797364871_efd9d14132_c.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

But wait, there's more!

 

The next thing i wanted to do was replace the fire pull stickers on my panel with indicator lights for gun ready, steering, canopy, etc.  those 4 lights would handle the left, right fire handle spots, so i had to think of something to put in the middle where the apu sticker is.  i decided on making a single missile launch light in a similar style to the other indicators. Then i decided to make something like the NMSP to fill in the blank space below the MFD's. i found some green backlit pushbutton switches that seemed like they'd work.

 

 as part of all this, i'd need to power a whole bunch more lights and switches, and the nano i was using to power existing things wouldn't have enough inputs.  at first i was going to use another nano or the uno i already had, but then also realized i don' t have any more usb spots in the hub inside the panel, and so the simplest solution would be replacing the nano with a mega.  So here's a sample of the incoming parts:

51015056947_43b2fa3c24_z.jpg 

 

First, i tried to manually etch some text with a dremel to make those things.  but i couldn't make anything small enough and consistent enough to meet my (arguably) low standards 😄

so I bought an el-cheapo laser cutter/etcher off amazon (like $150?)   I wanted something small and effectively throwaway if it didn't turn out to be useful. I don't have the time, energy or space to buy a good one  after experimenting a little bit i found some settings that worked reasonably on the plexi i had, as long as it was painted first.

 

indicator

 

here's the missile launch one test lit:

launch!

 

the scratches etc in the paint were entirely unintentional, but now i like that it has a weathered look.  unfortunately all of them are way too bright when lit, so i think i might wash them with a layer of thinned black paint to hopefully dim them a little.

 

The nmsp turned out to be a big pain.  making a mini panel with all the buttons wasn't super complicated:

nmsp

 

Height, and width wise, this will work where i want to put it.  you can see it mounted up to the mega, which i intended to mount on the back of the monitor stand inside the panel. i ended up using the laser etcher on super low power to cut the text and triangles out of black electrical tape, which i then taped on to the fronts of the buttons.  vinyl would be a much better and more long term solution, but for now the electrical tape seems to be fine?  you can also see some servos i was experimenting with to put in the fuel panel for the hydraulics gauges.  (i know they won't be perfect or even that correct, i was more just looking for something to fill in the space and be able to tell when the hydraulics are changing/dead.

 

But the problem came to be this:

51015056942_87cc377f5a_z.jpg

 

depth-wise, there's not a lot of room with the monitor there behind it, so there's no way for these deep buttons to fit.  my first inclination was to carve out some space in the "floor" of the panel.  After doing that, it wasn't enough.  the monitor stand was also in the way. so i planned on cutting the bottom of that out to make room.  but even then i was going to have to move the entire monitor stand back, which would mean the monitor would no longer be right up against the front where the mfds are.  

 

so then i thought, maybe there's a thick bezel on this monitor case, maybe if i take the front of the monitor case off, there will be more room.  When i took the monitor apart, i realized that the display size is a lot smaller than the monitor frame, and that the display was glued to the front side of the case.  i melted the glue to remove the lcd panel, and that lcd panel is almost exactly the size and shape of the mfds outer frames.  i could take the display and controller out of the frame, and glue the display directly to my plexi front, and not need the monitor frame OR the monitor stand taking up all that space inside the panel!  Somehow i have no pictures of this whole part of the process.

 

After removing the monitor stand from the equation, a LOT of things got simpler inside the panel.  it became a lot easier to wire things, i could mount the arduino (and now the lcd controller) on the back side of the frame instead of hidden behind the monitor stand.  the bottom nmsp buttons now had room and simpler wiring, and the new indicators that were mounted above the panel also had simpler wiring and room.

 

it also meant there was now also easier space and access to add switches to turn on/off the mfds as well.  i made little mounts to hold the switches, and mounted those as well.  if i had a 3d printer, i thin this would have been much simpler and had much better results.  the mounts i made are fine, but i might re-make these parts if/when i buy a printer.

 

Here's the newly upgraded panel, with the new additions (you can see how bright the steering engaged light is, it washes out entirely in the pic, and i need to get some fabric/somthing to fill in the slot for the landing gear lever so that doesn't bleed so much light from the backlighting of that panel)

51015057047_32737c090f_z.jpg

 

new features:

  • 5 indicator lights above the mfds
  • trivial servo based hydraulics gauges in a new mini panel etched on my cheapo laser etcher
  • nmsp panel with all functional and lit buttons and able/stow switch.  that mini panel has 2 more pushbuttons that i haven't figured out what to map to yet
  • power switches for the mfds
  • the arduino has a couple empty spots left 😄 

left to do:  

  • i need a whole bunch of switch covers/caps
  • some more cleanup

doing the math on the switch covers/etc i'd re do if i had a printer, its almost to the point that its cheaper to buy a lower end ender 3 or something than to keep buying other people's parts.  i'm also super tempted to print and build some of the authentikit stuff, just because i find that project awesome.  my kids also want a 3d printer for who knows what, so now i'm evaluating getting a reasonable one, not a cheapo like i did with the laser.

 

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  • 11 months later...

I can't believe its rolling up on a year since i last posted an update here in this thread!

Last time i said, "if i had a 3d printer..." so yeah, i got one of those, an Ender 3v2.  I've done tons of mods to that even, and have learned (a little bit!) of 3d modelling to draw out some custom things.  So now i thought i'd post a couple updates here!

A right side console!  As usual, i started with a cardboard prototype, to figure out how big it would be, and how i could mount it.  Then some panel parts from pcflights, a usb controller from desktop aviator, a couple of LCD panels and arduinos, and a cdu board and caution panel from TekCreations.

mockup

after figuring out the size and shape, i realized that a rolling stand might be the best way to do this side, with room inside/underneath to store the joystick and mount.  I also decided to add power and usb "pass through" that i can plug the jetseat into.

I built it into 2 parts, the "console" with all the electronics, wood frame of things i had around, and a mix of 3x printed and painted plexi for the sides/etc.

51396757143_8244bff9b0_c.jpg

an inside view of the stand:

51396757123_865eaf2b9a_c.jpg

(since that pic was taken i've also upgraded to a virpil base, and since THEN, i've had to re-print that extension.  (i broke that one while stress testing a 3d printed mount to attach the virpil to my desk mount).  the gray cable is the extension that connects out of this stand to the jetseat.

completed stand, from the other side.  

51901047324_2fcce27d01_c.jpg

i 3d printed ejection and parachute handles and mounts for them, though they're not hooked up to anything. i printed a little box to hold some kneeboard/manuals, bought some decals from various places, and painted the shark face on the side.  (i'm thinking about adding some fake panel lines and rivets but haven't found the time 😄

The whole setup (though this pic is before the yellow handles and manuals mount.

51396757148_dd680d7caf_c.jpg

 

 

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Amazing work! 👍

And it's always the same, it starts with something small and then thinking: "Ok, this is nice, but wouldn't it be cool to have this function also? But when I make this, I also wanted to have that....."

and suddenly you are in a big project 😄.

CockpitPC1: R9 5950X|64GB DDR4|512GB M2SSD|2TB M2SSD|RTX3090|ReverbG2|Win11Pro - PC2: PhnIIX6 1100T|32GB DDR2|2x2TB HDD|2x GTX660 SLI|Win7Pro64
ComUnitPC1: R9 3900XT|32GB DDR4|2x2TB HDD|RTX2070|Win11Pro - PC2: PhnIIX6 1100T|16GB DDR2|2x2TB HDD|GTX660|Win7Pro64
ComUnitPC3: AthlnIIX2 250|2GB DDR2|2TB HDD|5950Ultra|2xVoodooII SLI|WinXPPro32&WinME - PC4: K6-2+|768MB SDR|640GB HDD|Geforce256DDR|VoodooI|Win98SE

DCS - Modules - 1.jpg

DCS - Modules - 2.jpg

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17 hours ago, Viper1970 said:

Amazing work! 👍

And it's always the same, it starts with something small and then thinking: "Ok, this is nice, but wouldn't it be cool to have this function also? But when I make this, I also wanted to have that....."

and suddenly you are in a big project 😄.

yup!  and now i'm working on a multi function radio panel that LOOKS like an ARC-210 but actually is ALL the other radios (uhf, vhf am, vhf fm, ils and tacan) that attaches to the side of the left panel.  i'm not done with that yet but i'm close!  and this one i printed completely, used a cheapo laser to etch, etc.  just to see how it would turn out.  i might buy a real panel from somewhere, my laser etch is pretty inconsistent 😄 and i still have to paint a couple of the knobs.

 

 

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On 2/28/2022 at 6:44 AM, gardnerjr said:

yup!  and now i'm working on a multi function radio panel that LOOKS like an ARC-210 but actually is ALL the other radios (uhf, vhf am, vhf fm, ils and tacan) that attaches to the side of the left panel.  i'm not done with that yet but i'm close!  and this one i printed completely, used a cheapo laser to etch, etc.  just to see how it would turn out.  i might buy a real panel from somewhere, my laser etch is pretty inconsistent 😄 and i still have to paint a couple of the knobs.

NICE!
I'd be interested in that myself.
One suggestion, though, that I put in my simple 4x20 character display, is to put the radios in the top-down order they are fitted in the panel.
e.g
VHF AM
UHF FM
VHF FM
ILS
TACAN

That then preserves the fwd, dn, bk relationship of the PTT and radio position.

A10_radio_display.jpg


Edited by No1sonuk
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