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Universal military aircraft homecockpit project


Viper1970

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A little further today. 😅

I mounted two printed turbine wheels on the motor to cool the engine better and to blow away the chips from the milling process. I reworked the turbines a bit on my lathe to have a clean rotation without any vibrations. There will also be added a turbine shell at the bottom one.

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Had some trouble with the 3D-printer, respectively with broken cables again. Now I've had enough and changed every single wire, even the ones for the sensor and the stepper, to 230V flexible electric wires 😅.

There are 12 wire which go to my head, and as 1.5mm² wires are a bit bigger as the original ones, I splitted them in three sets of four wires each at the bend radius. Now I hope the constant cable breaks are history.

I also added a 12pol plug a while ago to be able to easily remove the head from the printer. I did the same for the print bed cables with a 4pol plug.

Now the work at the little CNC continues. I'm just making the housing for the mill-bed with an closable lid. This should prevent all those chips from flying arround all over my workspace while milling PCB's. After this the drag-chain system has to be done. Then the mill is also ready and I can finally do my HOTAS parts, I hope 🤔.

While the HOTAS parts are printing, I will do some learning in CNC milling and how to use the software for it. I want to make all my further circuits for the HOTAS with "self-milled" PCB's 😁.

P.S:

I'm also able to print with my favorite high temperatures for PLA again. I had to adjust many settings to be able to get good results after I switched to a new hotend and the direct drive. But now everything works fine again with the high temperature. I'm printing ordinary PLA with a temp of 235°. This way the parts, respectively their layers look much cleaner and the parts are also much stronger. The first layer is also much better to do with 235° nozzle temp and a bed temp of 60°, cause the filament applicates perfect to the print bed.

 

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CNC 1610 - Housing.jpg

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Edited by Viper1970
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The work on the CNC continues after my project for it on TinkerCAD get lost 🤬.

It was the first time a project was really completely lost. Never had that before. It was still in my catalog of projects, but if I want to open it nothing happens, but an endless loading screen. As it's only the CNC I did not made a backup of all the parts before, like I did for all my HOTAS parts. And bingo, the most worst case happened. I should have known it 😅.

I was able to restore some earlier designs out of my recycler and with a programm that searches the HD for deleted files, so that I don't have to do all the work from scratch again. Now all needed parts are back again and the last missing ones I'm still printing. After this I will print all my HOTAS parts finally and nothing else!

Have already lost a lot of time with all those troubles with my printer and now this BS again. I hope I'm able to print all HOTAS until the summer arrives, so I can do the paintwork.

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They really tried to help and recreated the project, but it still could not be loaded. I took the rest of what I was able to find somewhere in the nirvana of my HD and started again. At the end this was the quicker way as to wait if the project could be really restored.

Now all parts are ready. I just have to put all together. I used my resin printer for a second set of turbine wheels (the one that cool the mills motor and blow chips away) to have some more detail here and also more balancing, but uhh, this little machines makes fumes 🤢🤮.

I'm really a tough guy if it comes to solvent vapors, cause I worked for years in a restoration workshop for italian and british classic cars and old VW beetles, but this resin is really brutal. I couldn't stay even 5 minutes in my workshop while printing with resin, without getting headache.

Unfortunately, I have nowhere else to put the printer in the workshop where I could make an outlet out of the window. Another reason besides the complex cleaning of resin parts and the printer, why I don't like resin printing that much. Of course the parts are really smoother, but since my rework the FDM makes also really good prints. If I use 0.12mm layer heigth they aren't so far away from what my resin printer does, but they cost much less and I will anyway spray paint my HOTAS. So the difference is only a layer more of filler 😄.

 

 
 
     

Edited by Viper1970

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I use water washable resin from Eleegoo or Eryone, but both do really smell very bad. Not in the bottle, but as soon as I start the printer it begins to smell like hell and after arround 10 minutes later you really can't stay in the workshop anymore, even with the window opened.

I have just started to build a simple filter for the inner fan (the one in the print chamber). I only used ordinary foam for it, cause the activated carbon filters you can get are to expensive over a long time period in my opinion. And it really works! It's not perfect and probably not as good as those carbon filters, but the odor is drastically reduced, compared to the original state.

Probably the reason is reduced airflow at the fan due to the foam rather than actual filtration, but I don't care about that for now. It works and so it is ok for me 😅. Some guys deactivate this inner fan but the foam trick is also not bad, I think. I don't want to use any kind of filter at the back fan, cause here are the electronics placed, which need cooling inside the printers housing.

The print chamber fan is the one that sucks the odor out of the print chamber and makes the printer smell like hell, so no need to block the other fans. I don't think this fan is really needed to prevent anything from overheating and the "vacuum" effect that is needed for the print results, some guys at print-forums have mentioned, is also very questionable with this little 40mm fan 😄.  I could not notice any difference in print quality so far.

As I want to start printing my HOTAS parts now, I really need the resin printer for all those small parts like the replica POV's and their mechanics, or buttons and switches you did not get anywhere. I have printed some of them with FDM and the results were really good, but for those small parts a resin printer is much quicker and makes nicer parts.


Edited by Viper1970

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The little CNC so far. All parts are printed with FDM and they are really dimensionally stable and very strong. You need a lot of force to break them. The trick is to print at very high temperatures. I used 245° for the first layer and 70° bed temp and for the rest 230° and 60° bedtemp. All those parts are only printed with a 0.2mm layer height.

I also never have any problems with the first layer if I use such high temperatures. The adhesion is perfect. The first layer is printed with only 20mm/s and after this layer is perfect the rest can go up to 65mm/s without any problems. More is not really advisable, cause of the weight of my direct drive.

I also never have any problems with stringing or blops anymore, since I have changed to a direct drive. I print on ordinary magnetical built tek mats. I also have a magnetical FR4 print bed and another one out of spring steel, but I really prefer the built tek. The FR4 tends to have a bimetal effect at higher bed temps, even it is only 0.6mm thick and the spring metall hasn't that adhesion as the built tek has.

The drag chain was printed before the direct drive and is not the nicest part, but the rest is really good. And this is by far not the best quality thats possible. Those are only mechanical parts for the CNC. The HOTAS should look much better than, with the reduced layer height to 0.12mm. Only thing that is resin printed on the CNC at the moment is the little wheel on top of the Z-axis stepper, cause I wanted to test some parts after I made the "odor-filter" 😄.

 

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Edited by Viper1970

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All parts for the little CNC are done now. I added a holding device for a "victim plate", which then gets holes for the profile nuts and bolts to clamp things on the bed. I made it to the sides of the bed to be able to really use the full size of the bed for working and not to waste space for holding down this "victim plate". The nuts are made in a way that they could put from the top inside the furrow, so there is no need to slip them in from the sides. I will also make some holding frames which can be screwed to this side mounts for fixing the blank pcb's I want to use.

I also added an extra frame arround the original motor mount which my fan duct with the two super white LED's is mounted to. I wanted to have something similar at my mill as I have it on my printers head to be able to exactly see what happend at the cutters head. If all works like it should the second fan in the duct blows away the chips from the milling process and you can exactly see the progress in the process, cause of those two LED's.

All parts except the drag chain itself are constructed by myself with the use of TinkerCAD. 😄 The big front-lid which should prevent chips from blowing out to the front is still missing and I'm not sure if I will mount it, cause it's a nother big part for printing and I want to see if it's necesarry at all. There is also a second fan inside the upper duct on top of the motor. Both fans should cool down the motor sucking air through it.

The cable that goes from the front mounted display is misplaced inside the right frame on top of the Plexiglas plate. It has a special tunnel for this. To prevent the cable from slipping out, I put ducted tape on it an painted it black. To have both sides similar and let the hole machine look a bit better I made the same at the other side and on the cable chain guide also. The back plate of the machine ( a rest piece of a cabinet back wall I had lying arround) has still to be painted in satin black.

The complete electrical parts has still to be done, but I can now use my printer to start printing all my HOTAS parts. 🙂
 

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Edited by Viper1970

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Second part of my Apache top grip of the collective. The first part I did back a few weeks with the old bowden system. This time I need no more brim arround, thanks to my convertion to direct drive and a few other optimations I have made. This saves the annoying remove of a brim and the deburring of the parts after the print. Since my rework I never had to use a brim anymore, even at larger parts, cause I can use higher nozzle temps as with the normal drive without drops or any kind of stringing, also if a part has very long travels at some points of the print.

Nonetheless I think about buying a bigger resin printer. I really prever FDM, cause of the greater effort printing with resin makes and the horrible smell it produces, but the print-times with FDM are sometimes ridiculous for the HOTAS parts. This part alone needs 26 hours to get finished with a 0.12mm layer heigth and the quality settings I want to have.

Only thing that keeps me away from it at the moment is the cost of a new resin printer (my original Anycubic Photon is much too small for this) and the cost of resin compared to FDM filament. The results aren't bad with my FDM now and I want to have all my HOTAS spraypainted anyway, so after printing with 0.12mm layer height and the paintwork there isn't anything to see of the FDM production process the parts was made with, but the time is really a big deal for so much parts I want to make.

With resin this part would only take 12 hours and I even could do two parts at once without expanding the printing time, cause for a resin printer it makes no difference how wide or deep the part you print is, only thing that really counts is the z-height (ok not quite but almost). I could for sure print also a second part with my FDM in parallel but this nearly doubles the time as oppossed to the same if you do it on a resin printer. That's really the only reason I want to have a second resin printer now. The quality of resin is nicer, but if you rework a FDM part and paint the part after the print anyway it makes no more difference.

 

 

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3 and a half hours later. And I already increased the print speed to 125% on my Ender now. But this is really the max speed I can run. Must be arround 70mm/s.

 

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6 hours later

 

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16 hours later

 

 

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Edited by Viper1970

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Thanks again for the AH-64 files Viper. I am really sorry to see you have to go through all the hastles you have been experiencing. Hopefully it will go a bit smoother from now on.

I have printed out the cyclic and collective files you sent me. I printed them in ABS @ 0.12mm. I have sanded, filled, sanded and primed the collective. Im just getting ready to sand the cyclic. I am printing the hat switches etc in resin.

I have pretty much every button I need. i just cant figure out what button to use on the lower trigger. I have some 12x12x7.3 mm Tactile Push Buttons, for the top trigger. But the other one, I cant find anything that fits. Do you know what button is intended for this?

I am trying to source some shift registers, that are compatible with MMJOY2. I think they are going to hold everything up on me.

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Hi Tehrawk,

this is looking amazing! 🤩

You did it with ABS, wow! I don't dare to use ABS. I only use ordinary PLA or sometimes PETG. But I prefer to make the HOTAS with PLA, because I get along better with it. ABS is much better to sand as PLA, thats a big advantage over it and also much stronger.

 

I planed to use the lower trigger with the small buttons I bought and print a cap-frame for its top to put an 6x6x4,3 micro switch on top that all. Looks ugly but I've tested it and it really does function very well. All my dualstage triggers in all of my HOTAS Parts are made like this.

I've thought about the way TM did it in their old grips, using two 12x12x4.3 microswitches in parallel and activating the first stage via a spring and the second stage with a piece of foam between the trigger and the switches, but this needs much more space to integrate it inside the HOTAS part. For me this was the better and easier solution. Drawback are the little wires from the microswitch that are unguided and "free hanging". I use very small lacquered wires, like they are used in headphones sometimes, for this. They are very flexible and do not break very fast.

Here is a pic of my TC layout where you can see how I want to make it. The trigger-guard shown on this layout is history 😅. I decided to do all my grips without them, cause it's much easier.

 

 

AH-64D Collective - Lower Trigger .jpg


Edited by Viper1970
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Top right grip is ready now and bottom left is in the production. 😅

 

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Thanks! 🙂

the work on the Apache parts is progressing, at least as far as printing is concerned. In about an hour I can start to print the last part. After that I will print the Kiowa HOCAS and the collective of the Blackhawk. For the Blackhawk, I'm using a modified Thrustmaster X-Fighter grip from my inventory as the cyclic.

At the CNC there is also further work to do, because I still have to make all the wiring and all my stock solid cables are of course a bit too short, because of the used drag chain. Therefore, I have to extend some, which I really hate.

Soldering without being able to rest my arms somewhere has become a real torture due to my health restrictions and as much as I used to like doing this fine work, it's even harder for me now. Unfortunately the table is full when the CNC is on it and so I can put my arms nowhere. Working lying on the floor is probably also not a solution. The workshop is simply too small for an old, battered man 😂.

 

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Edited by Viper1970

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Small update for anyone who prints my Apache collective. I've made a construction mistake at the bottom trigger section! This is really not good for FDM printing, cause it's a pain to remove the support at this particular place of the part. I used a Dremel and did some "corrections" to it 😂. Sorry for this!

Maybe block supports at this little section (the hole is small enough to print it without support or reconstruct this part a bit. I will make an update to my parts at this section at a later time, cause I have still so much other work to do, but as strong as the whole print is, I think it will never break and it's very unlikely to need a spare part somewhwere in future. 😅

 

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Edited by Viper1970

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Finished printing the parts and been rushing about trying to get my list of given chores completed today, so I can start prepping and building tomorrow.

The collective base I made is ready and waiting 😀

Thanks for the heads up on the trigger section and your support in getting my project going.

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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Hey Rockeys,

thats great! 👍 Post some pics if possible. I'm very interested in it 🙂.

My new little love is ready now 😍. Ok, just seen I still missed some small screws to fix the frame arround the motor mount and two at the drag chain holder 😬. But's that's done within minutes, the holes are already there. The ER11 milling chuck can still easily be removed. I only must unscrew the frame arround the motor mount to do this. But I will very rarely have a reason to do this an change this chuck with anything else, cause this machine is mainly meant for PCB making. I also corrected the z-height 25mm up, to be able to use the full z-travel. Don't now if I ever need it, but I want to have it 😅. I used a printed frame part for this.

Now I have to construct a small housing for the PSU with a lighted 230V main switch on it. I don't want to have the PSU always attached to the 230V power network. The little microswitch on the mainboard will always stay in the on-position and the CNC 's power will only be switched with a big switch on the PSU, which is placed to the right side of the mill then.

The first picture is what i got and the rest what i made from it 😄:

 

CNC 1610 - original.jpg

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Edited by Viper1970

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The new little love is on it's place and working 😍! Homing also works like a charme with the three endstop switches, even with the offline controller only. The projects will saved to an SD-card and then transfered to the CNC, which runs independently from a PC. I wanted to have it this way (and make it the same with all my 3d-printers), because i didn't want the computer to have to run all the time when producing a part.

I made some addons for the power supply with a lighted power switch, an external reset button and integrated an cinch-plug for a removeable probe system.

Now the work at some PCB's for my HOTAS could also begin, provided I learn the creation of circuits and how to mill them properly, also. 😅

The print of the Apache collective is finished (some of the supports where really hard to remove - sorry again to all others that made it also - but those are my first selfconstructed HOTAS 😬) and I've started with the first part of my OH-58D Kiowa cyclic.

 

IMAG0802.jpg

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The last part of the Apache collective shell and the first part of the Kiowa cyclic during print. 🙂

 

IMAG0804.jpg

 

IMAG0805.jpg

 

and all grip parts I did so far (without all the extensions that are already done)

 

IMAG0807.jpg

 

IMAG0808.jpg


Edited by Viper1970
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CockpitPC1: R9 5950X|64GB DDR4|512GB M2SSD|2TB M2SSD|RTX3090|ReverbG2|Win11Pro - PC2: PhnIIX6 1100T|32GB DDR2|2x2TB HDD|2x GTX660 SLI|Win7Pro64
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First two parts of the Kiowa HOCAS are ready. The back-cover of the cyclic is still missing.

 

IMAG0810.jpg

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CockpitPC1: R9 5950X|64GB DDR4|512GB M2SSD|2TB M2SSD|RTX3090|ReverbG2|Win11Pro - PC2: PhnIIX6 1100T|32GB DDR2|2x2TB HDD|2x GTX660 SLI|Win7Pro64
ComUnitPC1: R9 3900XT|32GB DDR4|2x2TB HDD|RTX2070|Win11Pro - PC2: PhnIIX6 1100T|16GB DDR2|2x2TB HDD|GTX660|Win7Pro64
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Amazing work. Keep it coming 👍.

Here is the collective as from today. I will attempt the lower half tomorrow. Must admit I would be lost without a Dremel and a hot glue gun.

Screenshot 2022-04-20 at 17.18.55.png


Edited by Rockeyes
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Looking good! 👍

Yes, I know some things are far away from perfect 😬.

I never thought that so much guys wanna have my HOTAS parts. I really did them for myself and tried to keep things relatively simple. The hats and buttons were really meant to hot glue them at most positions. At first I had a more professional mounting in my mind, but I very soon changed this, because of the mass of parts I wanted to make for my universal pit and the time it had cost to do this also. It's much easier to glue the parts with hot glue and even Virpil or TM do this very often.

If something hot glued is broken it's totally easy to remove it. Just take a little brush, a bottle of spirit and brush the place where the hot glue is full with spirit. After this it's a trifle to remove the broken part. Not nice or professional but an easy DIY solution 😅.

The supports are sometimes really hard to remove and I have also cursed a lot to myself while removing them 🤣, but on the other hand I don't really know how to get a good solution on this, as to reconstruct all the parts to more pieces. That's something I really don't want, cause this also makes new connections necesarry and the parts again more complex.

For the buttons, pov's and switches all holes should have the right size. I posted somewhere in the thread which parts I want to use and made the holes for.


Edited by Viper1970

CockpitPC1: R9 5950X|64GB DDR4|512GB M2SSD|2TB M2SSD|RTX3090|ReverbG2|Win11Pro - PC2: PhnIIX6 1100T|32GB DDR2|2x2TB HDD|2x GTX660 SLI|Win7Pro64
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