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Total Controls Button Box small review


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Hi everyone.
Got a package to the door 😄

UPS had not treated the package nicely, not visible on the outside but the supports inside had given causing the box to move around.
No damage to the box or function but anyway not nice. I got info from TotalControls that they have revised the packing to prevent this in the future.

 

First impressions, beautiful finish and a very nice tactile feedback in the buttons. No way to miss a input.
Nice feel to the potentiometers as well with just the right amount of force needed to turn them.
The layout is perfect for VR, easy to find and identify with headset on.
 

The footprint is (not measured exactly) as the Warthog throttle as far as I can determine.

Lighting is the same green colour aswell, perhaps a bit brighter and not adjustable.

 

One heads up! In windows game controller program all buttons (33 an up to 44) wont show but they work just fine in DCS and IL-2.
Got me confused for a while before I started DCS and tested the controller there.

 

Not the cheapest box out there (hey what's cheap in our hobby right 😉 ) but the quality is superb, very pleased with how it feels and looks.

 

Inside the package you'll find a mini-stick for the 4 way hat (a firm but gentle press to mount it is required) together with the handles for "Gear" and "Hook" aswell as a USB cable and documentation.

 

https://totalcontrols.eu/

 

IMG_20210629_142401_6.jpg

IMG_20210629_143455_9.jpg

 


Edited by hakjar
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Reserved for future comments.

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Very nice, looking forward to receiving mine!

 

You say buttons 33-44 don't show in Windows - what do they correspond to on the device? I'm assuming that means they won't work in some other sims?

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3 minutes ago, jalfrezi said:

Very nice, looking forward to receiving mine!

 

You say buttons 33-44 don't show in Windows - what do they correspond to on the device? I'm assuming that means they won't work in some other sims?

 

This is a Windows restriction. If you use i.e. Joystick Gremlin you will see all 44 buttons. It does not affect any games (I've tried most of them). I am not sure about Falcon, since I've never tried it.


Edited by JackFlash
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My latest project, the Multi Function Button Box can be found at Kickstarter.

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@jalfrezi

Hi,

Buttons 33-44 is the buttonrow above the potentiometers and also gear, hook and Jettison.

Even though they don't show in windows game controller function I have mapped them in DCS and IL-2 with no problems.

 

I'm convinced that there won't be any problems in other games aswell and that You'll be as satisfied as I am 😄


Edited by hakjar

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7 minutes ago, hakjar said:

@jalfrezi

Hi,

Buttons 33-44 is the buttonrow above the potentiometers and also gear, hook and Jettison.

Even though they don't show in windows game controller function I have mapped them in DCS and IL-2 with no problems.

 

I'm convinced that there won't be any problems in other games aswell and that You'll be as satisfied as I am 😄

 

 

IL-2 has 64 button limit and DCS has 128 button limit.

Don B

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25 minutes ago, dburne said:

 

IL-2 has 64 button limit and DCS has 128 button limit.

How does this limit affect the controllers?

In regards to IL-2 it also has a limit in the number of USB peripherals that can be connected and used.

8 units can be used and I'm pretty sure that I'm way above 64 buttons on my 7 controllers connected.


Edited by hakjar

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6 minutes ago, hakjar said:

How does this limit affect the controllers?

In regards to IL-2 it also has a limit in the number of USB peripherals that can be connected and used.

8 units can be used and I'm pretty sure that I'm way above 64 buttons on my 7 controllers connected.

 

 

IL-2 - any button numbers above 64 will not be recognized by the game.

DCS - any button numbers above 128 will not be recognized by the game.

 

This is per controller obviously.

In my case with my Virpil CM3 throttle I have some logical button numbers assigned in the 70's, these are not seen in IL-2 but are in DCS as an example.


Edited by dburne

Don B

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Ah, I see. Started to count my buttons per controller and in total I'm way above 64 but if it is per controller then I get it 😄

Havn't had any problems assigning all inputs so far but I'm not above more than 64 inputs per controller.


Edited by hakjar

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1 minute ago, hakjar said:

Ah, I see. Started to count my buttons per controller and in total I'm way above 64 but if it is per controller then I get it 😄

 

 

Yeah - don't think it as total number of buttons per controller, but actual button numbers that are being used.

 


Edited by dburne

Don B

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  • 3 weeks later...

Finally got my hands on the Total Controls panel - what a lovely product!
As you see from the pic, I installed it on Virpil's V3 mount (with the TM plate, which is sold separately) and it fit perfectly. DCS recognised the devise and it was a matter of time to assign functions to it. Nice and easy.
My only comments would be that both gear and hook switches are "rolling" a little loosely and I also found that HDG and CRS are the opposite - a little too stiff to press.
Great job otherwise!

total controls.jpg

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The reason the gear and hook switches are "rolling" is because they are using mismatched threads.  The brass insert nuts in the handles are M8X1.25 threads, while the actual switches are another thread size.  The two switches are NKK brand, S-2AL, but none of their online specifications state the plastic cap thread size.  I have a complete set of thread gauges, and the switches do not match up with any standard metric or imperial thread size.  Using some printable pages from boltdepot.com, I'm guessing the switches use a very atypical M7X0.8 or M7X0.75 thread.  There are M7X0.75 tap & dies, so I will order one and see if it confirms the size.

 

Everyone knows you're not supposed to mix nut/bolt thread sizes because they're not going to seat properly, and in the long run you're going to damage the threads on one or both of the fasteners.  The fact that the Total Control guys didn't approach this correctly is mind-boggling.  It's Mechanical Fasteners 101.  I mean, I could tell the threads were wrong as soon as I screwed on one of the handles, it's that obvious.  So now with this button box, if you choose to regularly put on and take off the handles for whatever reason, you're going to damage something.  Crazy.

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I just ordered the box this week.  As I have the Winwing combat and takeoff panels, I don't plan on using those handles.  If that's the case, will the switches be ok as regular locking toggles?

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5 hours ago, RogueSqdn said:

I just ordered the box this week.  As I have the Winwing combat and takeoff panels, I don't plan on using those handles.  If that's the case, will the switches be ok as regular locking toggles?

Yes. If you do not fit the handles it will be regular switches. 

My latest project, the Multi Function Button Box can be found at Kickstarter.

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15 hours ago, Krunch1701 said:

The reason the gear and hook switches are "rolling" is because they are using mismatched threads.  The brass insert nuts in the handles are M8X1.25 threads, while the actual switches are another thread size.  The two switches are NKK brand, S-2AL, but none of their online specifications state the plastic cap thread size.  I have a complete set of thread gauges, and the switches do not match up with any standard metric or imperial thread size.  Using some printable pages from boltdepot.com, I'm guessing the switches use a very atypical M7X0.8 or M7X0.75 thread.  There are M7X0.75 tap & dies, so I will order one and see if it confirms the size.

 

Everyone knows you're not supposed to mix nut/bolt thread sizes because they're not going to seat properly, and in the long run you're going to damage the threads on one or both of the fasteners.  The fact that the Total Control guys didn't approach this correctly is mind-boggling.  It's Mechanical Fasteners 101.  I mean, I could tell the threads were wrong as soon as I screwed on one of the handles, it's that obvious.  So now with this button box, if you choose to regularly put on and take off the handles for whatever reason, you're going to damage something.  Crazy.


You are right, but the jiggle in the switches is due to the design of the S-2AL rather than the thread size being off. The switch itself is a high quality switch and actually the most expensive part on the whole box. But if you find that we are wrong I would be thrilled if you give us the exact thread size. 😊
However we will look in to this in future revisions of the MFBB to see if this is something that can be adjusted. 
 

I am a but curious on your thoughts on the box other than the handles. Does it do it’s job for you?


Edited by JackFlash

My latest project, the Multi Function Button Box can be found at Kickstarter.

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15 hours ago, Krunch1701 said:

The reason the gear and hook switches are "rolling" is because they are using mismatched threads.  The brass insert nuts in the handles are M8X1.25 threads, while the actual switches are another thread size.  The two switches are NKK brand, S-2AL, but none of their online specifications state the plastic cap thread size.  I have a complete set of thread gauges, and the switches do not match up with any standard metric or imperial thread size.  Using some printable pages from boltdepot.com, I'm guessing the switches use a very atypical M7X0.8 or M7X0.75 thread.  There are M7X0.75 tap & dies, so I will order one and see if it confirms the size.

 

Everyone knows you're not supposed to mix nut/bolt thread sizes because they're not going to seat properly, and in the long run you're going to damage the threads on one or both of the fasteners.  The fact that the Total Control guys didn't approach this correctly is mind-boggling.  It's Mechanical Fasteners 101.  I mean, I could tell the threads were wrong as soon as I screwed on one of the handles, it's that obvious.  So now with this button box, if you choose to regularly put on and take off the handles for whatever reason, you're going to damage something.  Crazy.

Since I have the box I have to disagree in one regard.

The wiggle is not caused by the threads but the design of the switch as stated by JackFlash. It wiggles with the ordinary caps on as well.

HOWEVER, after reading Your post I examined the threads in the printed part by eye and I do believe You are correct in regards of the thread.

The original cap has fine threads and the printed part inserts have a coarser thread so there seem to be a slight mismatch here.

Will have to go out in the garage and get my interpreter and see if it's small enough to go into the caps to test properly.

I will post this to the developer directly.

 

Regards

//

 

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You're right, I misread the post about the movement of the switches, but it doesn't change the fact that the switch thread and handle nut are different sizes.  And I've confirmed this today: I ordered a set of M7 X 0.75 X 2mm nuts from Amazon, and they fit the NKK S2AL switch perfectly fine.  No binding or cross-threading.  I suggest you do your own research to confirm; the nuts I bought are so short that I don't know if a longer M7X0.75 nut would still bind a bit, or if an M7 X 0.8 nut would be better.

 

Like I said above, I could tell the threads were incorrect *the first time* I screwed one of the handles onto the switch.  Additionally, after I had screwed the handle on, then attempted to remove it, the plastic handle came off but the brass nut stayed on the switch - I had to get a pair of pliers to take it off!  I'm surprised you guys didn't observe any of this yourselves during development.

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5 hours ago, Krunch1701 said:

You're right, I misread the post about the movement of the switches, but it doesn't change the fact that the switch thread and handle nut are different sizes.  And I've confirmed this today: I ordered a set of M7 X 0.75 X 2mm nuts from Amazon, and they fit the NKK S2AL switch perfectly fine.  No binding or cross-threading.  I suggest you do your own research to confirm; the nuts I bought are so short that I don't know if a longer M7X0.75 nut would still bind a bit, or if an M7 X 0.8 nut would be better.

 

Like I said above, I could tell the threads were incorrect *the first time* I screwed one of the handles onto the switch.  Additionally, after I had screwed the handle on, then attempted to remove it, the plastic handle came off but the brass nut stayed on the switch - I had to get a pair of pliers to take it off!  I'm surprised you guys didn't observe any of this yourselves during development.

Yes, I agree on the threads.

I confirmed it with my tools and I have reported it to the company.

Thought I measured a M8x0.75 thread though and not an M7? Have to check again 🙂 (the 0.75 fine thread is right as per my tools).

 

Can't say why the company missed it but it is possible that wrong inserets have entered the line after preproduction trials.


I'm not afiliated with them and are just an ordinary customer and I didn't notice this immediately since I use the box without them (space limitations 😄 )
However, this aside I'm still very pleased with the box and the switch itself is a very nice switch that should last a long time.
But as You said it should have been spotted in the QC.

 

Regards

//


Edited by hakjar
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  • 11 months later...

Hi all,

I know this is an old thread, but have any of you MFBB owners had any issues with MFBB mapped axes (dials) throwing other axes off center? For me, when I map an axis to an MFBB dial and turn the dial, my WinWing stick axes are thrown off-center... If the mapped MFBB dial(s) are all centered, the WW stick axes go back to center again. Even with the WW stick and throttle axes showing as being off-center, it only effects a few DCS modules in flight (the Viggen is the worst).

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  • 2 months later...

That's an *odd* bug. One USB controller should not upset the signal from another.

Are the rotary buttons labelled 'lights' all analogue axes? The radio buttons are encoders, right?

I just caved and ordered one. It has everything I need: radio controls, a numpad, a dobber, crs and hdg switches and a landing gear handle. Just as the rest of my pit is not built to simulate one machine perfectly, but allow use of a lot of different machines, so does this box. I hope it won't take too long to get built and sent. 


Edited by schurem

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11 hours ago, schurem said:

That's an *odd* bug. One USB controller should not upset the signal from another.

Are the rotary buttons labelled 'lights' all analogue axes? The radio buttons are encoders, right?

I just caved and ordered one. It has everything I need: radio controls, a numpad, a dobber, crs and hdg switches and a landing gear handle. Just as the rest of my pit is not built to simulate one machine perfectly, but allow use of a lot of different machines, so does this box. I hope it won't take too long to get built and sent. 

 

You are right. All light knives are analog inputs. The radios are encoders with push function. We will start shipping the new batch today. 

My latest project, the Multi Function Button Box can be found at Kickstarter.

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