TM TFlight pedals vs Apache rudder sensitivity/accuracy needed

[itarrow]

The Apache is my first DCS helo. I am slowly learning and getting used to it. Yesterday while free flying near Guam I was finally able to land on the carrier, and even being 53 I was happy as a 2 years old walking his first steps.

Said that, there is one thing I am realizing while learning, and before going to wife to beg to allow me spend some money, I would like some more experts feedback.

Seems to me that this module really test the quality of my controllers. I have a Warthog throttle/joystick and I think I am now able to fine tune cyclic and collective.

I have also Thrustmaster T Flight pedals, and there I am really struggling. Despite greasing and oiling, after a few minutes of flying they always get some resistance when trying to do some micro movements, so I need to apply more force to get it unstuck and as soon as it get unstuck it moves too much and then I need to overcompensate.

I find really hard to get the accuracy and “softness” needed to control the AH64 with this kind of behavior. This was never a problem with the jets I was used to fly in DCS, as with those I pretty much never had to so accurately dose my input. Here on the Apache I find it really frustrating.

Is anyone else using TM T Flight pedals with the Apache ? Are you having similar issues ? If not, which magic did you applied to get rid of the random resistance introduced by the pedal plastic slewing on the iron guides ?

And finally, any suggestion about some good rudders working well with the sensitivity needed on the Apache ?

[cow_art]

Cant speak for the TM T Flight pedals, but I recently upgraded from CH Pro Pedals to VKB T-Rudders for a similar reason. The VKBs are definitely an improvement over the cheaper CH pedals. Very precise and they feel very nice for helicopter flying. Other helos work very well for me now. 

The Apache remains pretty hard to control in the yaw-axis though.  What helps me a bit, is applying a curve to the axis (I currently use a custom curve which is equivalent to 70% Y-Saturation for the first 8 steps, then it cranks the sensitivity up to reach 100% on the final step). But even with that, I still find it hard to precisely control the Apache's yaw, especially in a hover.

That said, I am not sure how much the flight model should be considered finished at this early stage. I suspect things might improve when the missing hold modes are added.

Edited March 25, 2022 by cow_art

[Lazerhawk]

I also use Thrustmaster T Flight pedals and face the exact same difficulties even after greasing. In comparison it wasn't that much of a problem when I was flying the UH-H1 Huey.

What I'm experimenting with now is applying curves and decreasing saturation in DCS's axis tuning menu and see how that goes.

Edited March 27, 2022 by Lazerhawk

[MAXsenna]

Also have the T.Flight, and yes, they do get "sticky", I've never greased them though. Have some, (abundance actually), of Nyogel 767 lying around here somewhere. But I sort of got used to it. Waiting for my Slaws RH ROTORs now anyway. 

Did greasing help at all in other modules? I also feel the Apache is a little sensitive. 

Cheers! 

[sobe]

I have both the CH pedals and the cheaper TM pedals and I still use my old CH pedals.  However, no matter what I do, yaw control is very hard and uncertain.  I have flown other helios, but nothing like what I am experiencing with the Apache.  Someone prepared a custom curve which I am trying out. 

[ejhart]

What I did was map the 2 brake axis into one axis and use them as anti torque pedals. With slight curves added I'm able to make very precise adjustments. You can use a program like joystick gremlin to combine the axis then vJoy for a virtual device to map the new axis to. hth

[V2V]

Hi, It's possible to share, istructions how you done it or post the file please. I am trying to do it for TM Rudder pedals.

Getting "lost" Joystick Gremilin .. never use it before.

Many thanks in advance 

[V2V]

Hi ejhart

...No problem is done !!! 

[firefox121]

try my solution

 

[oldman2251]

I have the same pedals and had the hardest time trying to not keep helicopter on course. If you turn the pedals over there are two hatches, the small one on the bottom is the one you want to open and remove the spring. That has helped immensely with flying the AH64. If you don't like you can just put the spring back on. This also gets rid of the center detent.

Hope that helps.

[pii]

On 7/8/2022 at 8:35 PM, oldman2251 said:

I have the same pedals and had the hardest time trying to not keep helicopter on course. If you turn the pedals over there are two hatches, the small one on the bottom is the one you want to open and remove the spring. That has helped immensely with flying the AH64. If you don't like you can just put the spring back on. This also gets rid of the center detent.

Hope that helps.

This is the fix for the TM pedals , REMOVE THE CENTERING SPRING of the peddles. It's easy and makes a tremendous difference. If you have a warthog stick you may want to take the spring out of that also. I would suggest a "green" Spring though its needs some sort of centering IMO. 

Hopefully this advice isn't too late.

[H60MTI]

Yes, I'm bringing this back to life...

 

Just got the pedals today actually and jumped in the CrApache...I mean Apache Lol Those are some seriously sensitive pedals. Has anyone figued out a good solution to it yet? I can keep adding curve and desaturating them but I feel like they would still be super touchy.

[martinistripes]

3 hours ago, H60MTI said:

Yes, I'm bringing this back to life...

 

Just got the pedals today actually and jumped in the CrApache...I mean Apache Lol Those are some seriously sensitive pedals. Has anyone figued out a good solution to it yet? I can keep adding curve and desaturating them but I feel like they would still be super touchy.

Remove the spring from the compartment in the bottom, and select the "pedals without spring" in options.

I also find when you first give some rudder input when loading into a mission, they're overly sensitive. To fix this, I give each pedal full input (before increasing engine power obviously). They then seem to understand what there full range is better and are less touchy. It almost acts like a calibration.