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Found A Way to Keep Engine at Maximum Power Without Damage


brucewhf

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Put these switches to OPEN all the way in flight. As long as you don't stall the P-51, engine will never quit. If you pay attention to the OIL temp gauge you will notice that it never exceeds green area. I don't  know whether it is true to life but it just works in DCS!!


Edited by brucewhf
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  • brucewhf changed the title to Found A Way to Keep Engine at Maximum Power Without Damage
37 minutes ago, brucewhf said:

image.png

Put these switches to OPEN all the way in flight. As long as you don't stall the P-51, engine will never quit. If you pay attention to the OIL temp gauge you will notice that it never exceeds green area. I don't  know whether it is true to life but it just works in DCS!!

 

It works only if You manage to keep speed above 200mph, lower there's no way that 3000rpm and 60+ manifold You temp not rise until venting.

Also with the rad open You top speed is a bit lower.

 

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5 hours ago, brucewhf said:

image.png

Put these switches to OPEN all the way in flight. As long as you don't stall the P-51, engine will never quit. If you pay attention to the OIL temp gauge you will notice that it never exceeds green area. I don't  know whether it is true to life but it just works in DCS!!

 

It is a bit better that way for the engine, but I have done some speed tests and found out that way you lose some 20 knots of speed. And speed is one of the advantages of Mustang, so I don't think it is a good idea to compromise it. Still, if you stall Mustang the engine will burn out. And if you fly horizontally the engine will never burn out anyways even on maximum power.

I have been testing this option in dogfights these days, and with both radiators open I couldn't zoom from an AI Spitfire, I was barely faster than the AI Spitfire.

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On 6/23/2022 at 1:01 AM, Silent Film said:

And if you fly horizontally the engine will never burn out anyways even on maximum power.

I've done some tests, it turns out that the engine temp  heavily depends on environment temp. If outside temp is 4 degrees celsius, engine nealy never quits with both switches on. If 30 degrees celsius, the engine will definitely burn out soon with maximum power setting, no matter how.

 

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12 hours ago, brucewhf said:

I've done some tests, it turns out that the engine temp  heavily depends on environment temp. If outside temp is 4 degrees celsius, engine nealy never quits with both switches on. If 30 degrees celsius, the engine will definitely burn out soon with maximum power setting, no matter how.

 

Ofc it is, when air goes through radiator it transfer heat from coolant in to air, transfer rate depends on mass air flow and difference between coolant temp and ambient air temp. Very high ambient temp will slower heat exchange, making radiator less effective.


Edited by grafspee

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/22/2022 at 12:54 PM, Doughguy said:

Someone didnt read the manual 😄

Unless you have to run, its not really much of a problem if you enter a dogfight.

During cruise with mp/rpm in the greens i have them in auto.

He isn't wrong.  In reality, the best gains between cooling and slickening the airframe are around 1/3rd open for the coolant shutter.  The coolant radiator doesn't just cool regular engine coolant, but thr aftercoolant for the supercharger as well (and this doesn't even have its own cockpit guage).  As coolant temp is hotter, aftercoolant temp will get hot as well, decreasing the air charge and your brake horsepower.  Roughly 1/3 open is that sweet spot.

However this isn't the case in DCS, as BHP-loss does not appear to be modeled.  As such, you are faster the more closed those radiators are, as your BHP will not change with the rise in temperature.

 

Regarding when to use it: I'm mostly fine leaving them in auto.  They only actuate when there's a +/-6C Delta, so they're a bit clunky, but work well enough.  When I want to go fast, and I mean <profanity>mahpants fast, it is worth closing those shutters manually until your temps are perhaps on the high end of the green.  However, if you find yourself in a turning dogfight, it is better to open the shutters wide.  Your slower airspeed means they won't drag your airframe nearly as much, plus you make gains in being able to firewall or WEP the Mustang for a good amount of tight low-speed turns.  


Edited by Magic Zach
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After racing the stang for a while I've just grown accustomed to manually running the coolant rad and I leave the oil rad open.

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Funny enough i cant seem to set the radiator flaps to a certain state anyway unless they do it on their own in auto. Open opens them wide. Close closes them totally and auto well you guessed it. Cant cancel them out either. The switches arent spring loaded as ive read here or elsewhere iirc so its just 3 values you can switch around anyway. 

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Last time I flew it, the switches are spring loaded, they work as supposed to, and it's only up to you how long you push them either for open or close positions. It couldn't be just fully open, or fully close, since it takes almost 30 seconds for the flaps to move from one extreme to the other, so if they do get fully opened, or fully closed, you pushed the switch that long to get them there.


Edited by Ala13_ManOWar

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As said. Since ive started flying the mustang i flick the switch by mouse. If i switch it by click from auto to either open or close it stays in the pos until i click it again to any other pos. It doesnt jump into a neutral postion if i depress the mouse button. Im on stable but thats how its been for since ive started last september. Hence im a bit confused that people say its springloaded.


Edited by Doughguy
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7 minutes ago, Doughguy said:

As said. Since ive started flying the mustang i flick the switch by mouse. If i switch it by click from auto to either open or close it stays in the pos until i click it again to any other pos. It doesnt jump into a neutral postion if i depress the mouse button. Im on stable but thats how its been for since ive started last september. Hence im a bit confused that people say its springloaded.

 

When activated by keyboard button yes, when used via mouse not, old bug i think

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Yeah, they're supposed to be and used to be springloaded when operated by keyboard or mouse, but the mouse mode got messed up along other controls back when DCS 2.7 was released and hasn't been fixed ever since.

I actually find this "stuck switches" bug useful when I'm on the ground and just want to open the flaps all the way, but I understand it might be annoying in the air.

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17 hours ago, grafspee said:

When activated by keyboard button yes, when used via mouse not, old bug i think

Yeah I can confirm this, I stumbled on it some 7-8 months ago but tbh, didn't report it

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