avlolga Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Anyone cut this out yet and try it? I'm looking in more detail and it looks like the notch joints will have a lot of play in them, especially since the plywood I was going to get is actually .7 not .75 inches. Hope i writing it right: i have cut it and asked to band it, from 1.5 mm galvanized tin. will upload some pic later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadroc Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Flim indicated he used .02" tolerance for notches in his kits. I was resizing the notches to meet that. Not all ply is .7 there is true .75 but the birch Home Depot and Lowes sell is only .7 which is what I have easy access to. I'm not sure what real .75 ply costs either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
y2kiah Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 For the baseline CAD files, I'll get rid of the tolerances. 0.0625 built in tolerance plus .05 possible difference in thickness is too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frallzor Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Anyone using cnc milling having issue setting the last dxf up? Cant seem to get full cuts of the profiles with 3mm tool (1/8") Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
y2kiah Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 You may (and probably do) have to do a quality check of the dxf. I can't vouch for the quality of the Sketchup to DXF export plugin that I use. I have always had success with it in the past, after some tweaking to get all the correct polylines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frallzor Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 The lines are tip top, but the space for the tool to fit seems to be missing =/ mostly the simple long parts. EDIT Seems my software had a freak out and selected the biggest tool in my arsenal, so all is fine =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadroc Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 I got the plans cut out today. Using .02" tolerance on the notches worked perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
y2kiah Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 awesome it looks great, I'll use .02 also. Did you also reduce them to .7 to start? The right side is almost ready with the clearance fixed for .02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadroc Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Yes. The I reset the notches to .72 wide on the side struts and ribs. I forgot to resize the ones for the support that rests in the notches on top inside of the console and it's loose but I'll put some shims in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadroc Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Also what size angle did you spec out for the panel mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
y2kiah Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 (edited) most of the rail structure is 0.5" x 1.0" x .125" architectural type, in stock now here http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/alum2.phtml?page=aangle&LimAcc=%20&aident=. There are also a couple pieces of 1x1 and some .5" strips to finish the job. Here is a sketchup file of the rails, with some wireframe of the panel dimensions over it. This is the easiest way to explain it. The channels created on the outer edge of the rails slips over the rib that runs length-wise. I didn't see that piece in your cutouts yet, I'm guessing that's another piece you still have to cut? rails.7z Edited December 10, 2011 by y2kiah 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flim Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 I used .02 for most parts with my cnc and it does a good job of giving enough room. Good job guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
y2kiah Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 .02 sounds like the way to go for sure, thanks Flim. I'm redoing all of the gaps on my model and will post updated files. I used .02 for most parts with my cnc and it does a good job of giving enough room. Good job guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadroc Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 How does the throttle stand get attached? I see pre-drill holes on the rib it's at and the base of it, but I don't have a matching piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOP_TRIZZ Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 hears some aces 2 seat files i converted to dxf files hope this helps..:thumbup:aces seat files.rar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moby Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 That's not a simpit. THAT'S ART!!!! Smokin job there bro!!!! [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] www.beersims.freeforums.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avlolga Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 hears some aces 2 seat files i converted to dxf files hope this helps..:thumbup: Thanks HOP_TRIZZ :thumbup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOP_TRIZZ Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 (edited) if your going to a cutter then you don't need to do the tool path or the g-code my cnc guy said all they really need is the size as per the wood 4x8 sheet and the true dxf file if you check the file all lines are corrected as per the size and width in port to a cad program and do a measurement of the lines compared to the specks on the file 1 to 1 full size. maybe some one would like to do a little art work on the sidees of the seat and re-up the file.... Edited December 13, 2011 by HOP_TRIZZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadman Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 F-16 ACES II need a few adjustments :music_whistling: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOP_TRIZZ Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 (edited) Where? this is my first file, in the seat area this is the dim 14.1729 across the back any help is greatly appreciated..:lol: Edited December 14, 2011 by HOP_TRIZZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadman Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 I am not sure what your measuring at 14.1729 all of your measurements on the files are not in inches and 100th of an inch are these your originals or reworks of an old PDF file? https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
y2kiah Posted December 14, 2011 Author Share Posted December 14, 2011 (edited) Couple of previews of the front extension module that adds two feet to the front of the pit. This is an optional module that I would only recommend for people planning a projector setup. The extended front area allows the windscreen frame to be built, adding to the immersion of the pit. I think it adds a lot of personality to the pit and makes it start to resemble a hog. The canopy frame would take some real craftsmanship View from the business end Example with a 6ft radius, 180 degree screen centered at the pilots head, for three projectors. Would be a great setup, if you have the room. Edited December 14, 2011 by y2kiah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avlolga Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 i will consider replacing me home for that room :thumbup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadroc Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 Looks good. Unfortunately I don't have space for the projector setup, well not at least if I want to stay married. I already get complaints about how much of the basement I take up. How's the right side comming? Any chance of it getting posted this week? I'd love to be able to get it cut out while I'm on vacation the rest of the month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
y2kiah Posted December 14, 2011 Author Share Posted December 14, 2011 Yeah that won't be a problem, just a few more things to clean up and I can post the right, front, and base. You're on your own for the seat mount, I have no clue yet how I'll raise and lower the seat, may just go with fixed height. Looks good. Unfortunately I don't have space for the projector setup, well not at least if I want to stay married. I already get complaints about how much of the basement I take up. How's the right side comming? Any chance of it getting posted this week? I'd love to be able to get it cut out while I'm on vacation the rest of the month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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