New hardware?

[rattler]

Hi guy's:

 

Been out of touch on hardware for a while so I thought I would ask if this would be a decent change for FC and future for a while.

Planned changes:

Mb= Asus p6t7ws

Cpu= intel core i7-975 or 930 will be 2.8ghz or above

mem.= corsair 6gb dominator gt pc3-16000-20000 mhz 240 pin 3 channel ddr3

New case= type unknown at this time.

 

Keeping

500gb sata 7200rpm wd hdd, asus geforce 9600gt oc gpu, gpu cooler(arctic ice),2x120mm case fans, 500 watt psu, 21" lg 226wt monitor, x52 + rudder pedals, Logitech wireless keyboard and mouse, xonar ds 7.1 sound card. logitech wireless headset. lantec 160gb external hdd, lg dvd r/rw,c-r/rw, logitech web cam with Carl Zeiss lens, + the usual other stuff, printers etc.

 

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Want this to be future proof for a little while.LOL.:D Thanks.

[EtherealN]

Personally I don't feel the 975 is worth the dollars. A 930 overclocked will get you pretty much the same performance (I fail to remember if it has the same memory interface clock, tho, but that's a very very minor detail in this case).

 

On case, what are you looking for? I like my HAF case due to the awesome airflow, accessbile MB rear plate and integrated liquid cooling support, but it does leave the case entirely open for sound to escape it.

 

Oh, and there's no such thing as "future proof". :P The one thing to do to be future-proof is to have a very good PSU with modular connectors and make sure you have one of the newer sockets (which you do). Individual components can always end up supplanted aside from that power/mobo backbone.

[rattler]

Personally I don't feel the 975 is worth the dollars. A 930 overclocked will get you pretty much the same performance (I fail to remember if it has the same memory interface clock, tho, but that's a very very minor detail in this case).

 

On case, what are you looking for? I like my HAF case due to the awesome airflow, accessbile MB rear plate and integrated liquid cooling support, but it does leave the case entirely open for sound to escape it.

 

Oh, and there's no such thing as "future proof". :P The one thing to do to be future-proof is to have a very good PSU with modular connectors and make sure you have one of the newer sockets (which you do). Individual components can always end up supplanted aside from that power/mobo backbone.

 

I get My computers built for me. I have given them some specs. to look for and they will pick a suitable case. The case may come with its own PSU.

 

They know what I need this for and have always built a good matching system. They will match the Cpu to a mother board etc. They seem to like Asus, western digital , Coursair, Mainly the big brand names that give very little problems. I already have a very large Gpu cooler for the present graphics card which I think is still good.( I like nvidia cards),I do believe I asked them to look at the i7-930 instead of the 975. Ya, I know nothing is future proof, that's why I laughed when I said it. Basically one that will hang in there for a while. the main drain on the computer is Lockon. Everything else could actualy run on much less. I love Lockon to much.LOL. So would you go up to a 1000 watt PSU?

 

Oh, I asked for the Evga geforce gtx285 2048mb ddr3 pic=e if they figure my GPU is going to be taxed too much.

Edited May 17, 2010 by rattler

[EtherealN]

Asus, WD and Corsair are good names. I've got plans to use an ASUS ROG motherboard for my next build personally. On PSU I'd say it's not so much the wattage but the rail quality you want to look for - at least if you are going for overclocks on CPU and GPU. Though for DCS you'll be mainly looking at CPU overclocks and overvoltages - a good CPU overclock might go as far as doubling the wattage of it and this makes it extremely important that your PSU can supply "clean" wattage since any variability may cause the gate voltage rises to not fit with the clock and cause you to get unstable earlier than necessary.

 

I myself use a 630Watt PSU and don't really see a reason to go higher - my computer only uses around 500 watt when fully overclocked and in full use. However, a higher wattage PSU does offer a better wear-and-tear protection, since their output will degrade with time and a higher-wattage PSU gives you better margins there.

[zakobi]

In the case section, if you want a mid-sized case it seems the Cooler Master 690 II advanced is the best atm.

[jpm1]

if i had the money i would tend for a i5 750 i've read things about it seems "nearly" impossible to saturate the proc and it is quite cheap comparing to the perfs . i think i'm gonna upgrade my museum rig for a HP fitted in serie with a i3 530 soon then if needed i'll upgrade with a i5 750 . the case you can get very good things for cheap too example .

the psu isn't a matter of power but more likely a matter of quality , noname 650W psu won't do what a brand (Corsair,Antec..) 400W will do .

coming back shortly to the proc for me a good proc is not necessary the most powerful or the most recent but the one that has the best price/performance ratio very good test (french) you'll see that the little i3 530 has better performances than the excellent (old) Q6600

[rattler]

In the case section, if you want a mid-sized case it seems the Cooler Master 690 II advanced is the best atm.[/QUOT

 

I will look this up thanks!

[rattler]

Asus, WD and Corsair are good names. I've got plans to use an ASUS ROG motherboard for my next build personally. On PSU I'd say it's not so much the wattage but the rail quality you want to look for - at least if you are going for overclocks on CPU and GPU. Though for DCS you'll be mainly looking at CPU overclocks and overvoltages - a good CPU overclock might go as far as doubling the wattage of it and this makes it extremely important that your PSU can supply "clean" wattage since any variability may cause the gate voltage rises to not fit with the clock and cause you to get unstable earlier than necessary.

 

I myself use a 630Watt PSU and don't really see a reason to go higher - my computer only uses around 500 watt when fully overclocked and in full use. However, a higher wattage PSU does offer a better wear-and-tear protection, since their output will degrade with time and a higher-wattage PSU gives you better margins there.

 

I don't OC the GPU is a factory overclock. I think I should be safe . You make a good point on the less ware and tear , that,s a good idea, thanks..

 

I should know tomorow exactly what they intend to put together for me, so I will keep an eye on the PSU. Will let you know what they think will work for me when I find out.. Thank god I can do all this without putting money down first. Cheers.:thumbup:

[rattler]

Ok this is the result of the techs input.

I7-930,p6tmb, antec 600 case, kingston 4gb kit ddr3 kvr series.

 

The rest will come from my current computer with windows 7x64.

gpu cooler , extra 120mm fans(2), PSU 500watt (considered top quality),

 

Leaving a case, 4gb ddr2(corsair)ram, 3.5 floppy, intel e4500 core2duo, asus p5kmb.. any suggestions if anything should be changed.Thanks

Edited May 18, 2010 by rattler

[Slayer]

I think the guy is telling you wrong, an I7 930 will require triple channel memory so you would have a choice of 3g, 6g or 12g of memory.

[rattler]

I think the guy is telling you wrong, an I7 930 will require triple channel memory so you would have a choice of 3g, 6g or 12g of memory.

 

It is ddr3 and it is 4gb as far as I know. I will check but I think I looked at it on the web but will make sure. Thanks.:thumbup:

 

Just checked

KVR1066D3N7K2/4G cl7 240pin dimm.

 

You can get as much ram as you want. Kingston comes in a lot of flavors. 1gb, 1x3, 2,4,6 ,8 and everything between and higher. The board allows me to add lots of memory so I started with a 2x2 kit. Hyper-x series also has a variety of ram to meet you needs. All available in CL9 or CL7. I preferred the latency 7.

 

Thanks for bring this up as it sure does'nt hurt to check and make sure.

 

 

Edited May 27, 2010 by rattler

[Slayer]

You can get whatever ram you want but you are getting 2 dimms instead of 3. It's different on the I7 compared to your Core 2 system. To take advantage of the three ram channels you will need to populate at least 3 DIMM slots not 2. Core 2 systems can only use dual channel...in otherwords it can access both memory sticks at the same time to boost performance. In I7 it can access all 3 at once. On your old board it probably had 4 or 8 memory slots and you put them in in pairs, on the I7 boards you put them in in multiples of three, so your new board will have 3 6 9 or 12 slots for the memory chips. Understand?

 

In your first post you even refrence the dominator 3 channel memory kit (2gig x 3 sticks, 6 gig kit)

Edited May 28, 2010 by Slayer

[rattler]

You can get whatever ram you want but you are getting 2 dimms instead of 3. It's different on the I7 compared to your Core 2 system. To take advantage of the three ram channels you will need to populate at least 3 DIMM slots not 2. Core 2 systems can only use dual channel...in otherwords it can access both memory sticks at the same time to boost performance. In I7 it can access all 3 at once. On your old board it probably had 4 or 8 memory slots and you put them in in pairs, on the I7 boards you put them in in multiples of three, so your new board will have 3 6 9 or 12 slots for the memory chips. Understand?

 

In your first post you even refrence the dominator 3 channel memory kit (2gig x 3 sticks, 6 gig kit)

 

The dominator 3 channel kit is not available at this time. However the dd3 kingston in 2x2 is available now. All I have to do to get triple is to add one more 1x2 for 6gb to activate the tri channel which is detected automatically.It is suggested however to add another 2x2 for a total of 8gb and that will still activate the tri channel. There may be an instability issue with 1x2 but it should work. Too avoid that slim possibiltiy 2x2 would be a better move. So do I understand? If what I have said is not true, then I do not understand and you would suggest to start, a 1x3 kit. Am I correct. I really need to understand this and I do appreciate your time. So keep the info going. I am trying to learn.:)

Edited May 28, 2010 by rattler

[thereminqblank]

Rattler, you might be better of waiting until you can get a 3 stick kit of RAM. Or, first look into (google) the implications of using two different kits of RAM to fill up 3 RAM slots.

 

I know I was advised a few years ago that you are better off buying a matched pair of RAM (2 sticks in 1 kit) to utilise dual channel, rather than mixing the RAM.

 

The RAM manufacturers will probaly advise that you get a triple stick kit of RAM, but whether or not you believe them depends on how cynical you are!

[rattler]

Rattler, you might be better of waiting until you can get a 3 stick kit of RAM. Or, first look into (google) the implications of using two different kits of RAM to fill up 3 RAM slots.

 

I know I was advised a few years ago that you are better off buying a matched pair of RAM (2 sticks in 1 kit) to utilise dual channel, rather than mixing the RAM.

 

The RAM manufacturers will probaly advise that you get a triple stick kit of RAM, but whether or not you believe them depends on how cynical you are!

 

I just purchase another 2gb stick so now I have 3 sticks matched and are 2gb each. this should do the trick. all 3 sticks are identical but 2gb instead of 1 gb each and they are CL7 compared to CL9 for the 1gb sticks.:)

[Slayer]

The problem with adding later is even if you buy the same part number you may not get the exact same sticks and it can cause instability. Most BIOS only allow you to set the ram timings for all sticks at once, so if there are variations you are forced to turn off all the auto settings, look up all the timings and compare to find the slowest settings, then manually set your memory timings to the lowest common denominator.

 

I learned this the hard way a long time ago....it lends to a system where you have instability and it's really hard to nail down.

 

I hope I don't come off wrong , just trying to pass on info so you have a nice fast and stable system for gaming :)

[rattler]

The problem with adding later is even if you buy the same part number you may not get the exact same sticks and it can cause instability. Most BIOS only allow you to set the ram timings for all sticks at once, so if there are variations you are forced to turn off all the auto settings, look up all the timings and compare to find the slowest settings, then manually set your memory timings to the lowest common denominator.

 

I learned this the hard way a long time ago....it lends to a system where you have instability and it's really hard to nail down.

 

 

 

I hope I don't come off wrong , just trying to pass on info so you have a nice fast and stable system for gaming :)[/QUOT

 

I really appreciate all your advise. right now the only thing I can do is let them build the system , which is going to be ready tomorrow and see if the ram is working as it should be. If not, they will make it right at no cost to me.

Appreciate all you have to say and i am taking all your advise in the intent it was given. Now it is a wait and see and now thanks to you I have a valid point to make if there is a problem. Thanks very much for the info, I do take it into account and will be watching very carefully on what they deliver. Thanks again for your valued input.:thumbup::thumbup: