-Ice Posted May 8, 2011 Posted May 8, 2011 No worries mate! Need the time to save up the money anyway. Damn stupid "real-life priorities!" Who needs to pay "rent" anyway? - Ice
pitbldr Posted May 11, 2011 Author Posted May 11, 2011 UFC kit dimensions A few people have asked for the dimensions of my UFC, so I wanted to post for everyone to see. You may have to open the image outside of the forum or download it for it to be readable.
fael097 Posted May 11, 2011 Posted May 11, 2011 questions: -what did you use to cut the aluminium? -did you paint the aluminium black? -what acrylic is that? i can only find transparent ones, but with it, the writings would look awful. did you paint transparent acrylic with white paint? -what are the spessures of the aluminium and the acrylic? thanks in advance Rafael Ryzen 7 1800x @ 4ghz | MSI GTX 980ti | 32gb DDR4 Ballistix 2400Mhz | Asus ROG Crosshair VII Hero (wi-fi) | 480Gb Kingston NVMe ssd | Western Digital 1TB x2 | EVGA 850w PSU | Noctua NH-D14 | NZXT S240 | Windows 10 Pro 64bit | 4k 50" Philips android TV | Dell P2418D | Oculus Rift S | Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas
pitbldr Posted May 11, 2011 Author Posted May 11, 2011 questions: -what did you use to cut the aluminium? -did you paint the aluminium black? -what acrylic is that? i can only find transparent ones, but with it, the writings would look awful. did you paint transparent acrylic with white paint? -what are the spessures of the aluminium and the acrylic? thanks in advance There's no aluminum in this kit. I have cut aluminum before with my CNC, but this is made entirely from acrylic. Yes, I painted the text plate white before painting it black. You can also use 7328 acrylic which is white, but can still allow light to pass through. The contrast is not as good as when painting the acrylic, but less work is involved and it's definitely usable. spessures?? not sure what you meant here. If you're asking about the acrylic thickness, I used .125" for everything except the "light plate". That's made from .25".
fael097 Posted May 12, 2011 Posted May 12, 2011 great, thanks. so how did you cut the acrylic? with cnc aswell? also how did you paint the panels? Rafael Ryzen 7 1800x @ 4ghz | MSI GTX 980ti | 32gb DDR4 Ballistix 2400Mhz | Asus ROG Crosshair VII Hero (wi-fi) | 480Gb Kingston NVMe ssd | Western Digital 1TB x2 | EVGA 850w PSU | Noctua NH-D14 | NZXT S240 | Windows 10 Pro 64bit | 4k 50" Philips android TV | Dell P2418D | Oculus Rift S | Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas
pitbldr Posted May 12, 2011 Author Posted May 12, 2011 I cut the acrylic with a laser. However, acrylic could be cut with some basic tools if needed (at least basic shapes could be done without too much trouble). I believe there are saw blades made especially for acrylic. I used krylon spray paint - couples coats of white, then one nice, even coat of black. I also put on a couple clear coats after the panels are engraved.
fael097 Posted May 12, 2011 Posted May 12, 2011 great, decided the material, acrylic it is! just a few more questions, if you dont mind! -I thought that painting white would make a thick layer and thus, make it harder for the led lights to pass through, but i guess i was wrong? will only a black layer above, except on the writings, do the trick and stop the light, showing only on the white paint? or you use another material to block the light? -how did you engrave the panels? -how are your plate layers set up? is the "light plate" the top one? I just caught your thread, and it seems that all pics have been removed. thanks a lot mate Rafael Ryzen 7 1800x @ 4ghz | MSI GTX 980ti | 32gb DDR4 Ballistix 2400Mhz | Asus ROG Crosshair VII Hero (wi-fi) | 480Gb Kingston NVMe ssd | Western Digital 1TB x2 | EVGA 850w PSU | Noctua NH-D14 | NZXT S240 | Windows 10 Pro 64bit | 4k 50" Philips android TV | Dell P2418D | Oculus Rift S | Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas
pitbldr Posted May 13, 2011 Author Posted May 13, 2011 great, decided the material, acrylic it is! just a few more questions, if you dont mind! -I thought that painting white would make a thick layer and thus, make it harder for the led lights to pass through, but i guess i was wrong? will only a black layer above, except on the writings, do the trick and stop the light, showing only on the white paint? or you use another material to block the light? -how did you engrave the panels? -how are your plate layers set up? is the "light plate" the top one? I just caught your thread, and it seems that all pics have been removed. thanks a lot mate I actually put on two coats of white and light comes through fine. Some people are using white acrylic and that works well too. If you get a nice even coat of black, then one coat of that should do the trick. My panels are done completely on the laser. I cut them and then engrave with it. The panels themselves have two layers and how I label them is by calling the top plate (with the text engraved on it) the "text plate" and the bottom plate the "light plate". Then you have the "back plate" or "switch plate" as I call them which all the switches are mounted in. Sorry the pictures aren't there. I was running out of space and had to remove them to free some up.
Deadman Posted May 13, 2011 Posted May 13, 2011 Photo bucket for picture works wonders I though you were using a cnc router to cut your light plates https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.
pitbldr Posted May 13, 2011 Author Posted May 13, 2011 Yeah, I set up a photobucket account so that I could start putting my pictures there. I was using my CNC originally and then after getting my laser, I started using that. Oddly enough, I did not purchase the CNC or the laser for my project, but they certainly help! :D
fael097 Posted May 14, 2011 Posted May 14, 2011 let me know when you upload your pics, would like to take a look! Rafael Ryzen 7 1800x @ 4ghz | MSI GTX 980ti | 32gb DDR4 Ballistix 2400Mhz | Asus ROG Crosshair VII Hero (wi-fi) | 480Gb Kingston NVMe ssd | Western Digital 1TB x2 | EVGA 850w PSU | Noctua NH-D14 | NZXT S240 | Windows 10 Pro 64bit | 4k 50" Philips android TV | Dell P2418D | Oculus Rift S | Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas
PanelBuilder Posted June 6, 2011 Posted June 6, 2011 Hey Pitbldr, what are you using for wire? Looks like you took it out of your wall :-) Cheers, Colin
pitbldr Posted June 6, 2011 Author Posted June 6, 2011 Hey Pitbldr, what are you using for wire? Looks like you took it out of your wall :-) Cheers, Colin :lol: Nah, I had a spool of 22 wire from Radio Shack lying around so I used that. When I do my other panels, I'll definitely be using a smaller guage wire.
PanelBuilder Posted June 7, 2011 Posted June 7, 2011 :lol: Nah, I had a spool of 22 wire from Radio Shack lying around so I used that. When I do my other panels, I'll definitely be using a smaller guage wire. Oh wait, it's 2-conductor; I didn't see that. And maybe extra heavy insulation. 22 ga should be a OK. No smaller than 24. Looks like it's solid wire so that's a good thing for connections on the same panel. You *could* daisy chain the grounds but with Leo's board having a ground per input, I'd be tempted to do it just the way you did it. Cheers, Colin 1
pitbldr Posted June 7, 2011 Author Posted June 7, 2011 Oh wait, it's 2-conductor; I didn't see that. And maybe extra heavy insulation. 22 ga should be a OK. No smaller than 24. Looks like it's solid wire so that's a good thing for connections on the same panel. You *could* daisy chain the grounds but with Leo's board having a ground per input, I'd be tempted to do it just the way you did it. Cheers, Colin Yeah, the insulation is really thick on these for some reason. Being VERY new to electronics, the fact that I could daisy chain the ground wires did not hit me until after I was done! :doh: When I wire up the rest of my panels, I'll definitely be daisy chaining to reduce the amount wiring.
pitbldr Posted August 10, 2011 Author Posted August 10, 2011 Just finished up my prototypes for the Landing Gear and AHCP panels. Obviously I've not cut out a spot for the flaps indicator yet. I need to wait and see exactly how I will implement that. Nice thing about the laser though is I can just go back and cut it right out of this panel. :D
juankeiko Posted August 10, 2011 Posted August 10, 2011 like always you are doing a very good job. Nice man. Go on. Cheers ---=ONLY ANGELS FLY HIGHER=----[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Cuando llegues al final de tu cuerda, haz un nudo y aguanta. Franklin Delano Roosevelt When you reach the end of your rope, tie a knot and hang on. Franklin Delano Roosevelt :pilotfly::thumbup: Buenos Vuelos-Good flights
hog_driver111th Posted August 11, 2011 Posted August 11, 2011 I definitely would buy a full set! A-10C - FC3 - CA - L-39 - UH1 - P-51 - Hawk - BS2 - F-86 - Gazelle - F-5E - AV8B - F/A-18C i5-4590 - GTX 1060 - Oculus CV1 - TM:Warthog [sIGPIC]http://forums.eagle.ru/signaturepics/sigpic9979_1.gif[/sIGPIC]
HitchHikingFlatlander Posted August 11, 2011 Posted August 11, 2011 Awesome man. Do you do the lettering on the CNC too? I thought I read a post by you where you mentioned an engraver just curious in any case. http://dcs-mercenaries.com/ USA Squad
y2kiah Posted August 11, 2011 Posted August 11, 2011 Nice! The yellow turned out really well, can I ask how you did it?
pitbldr Posted August 11, 2011 Author Posted August 11, 2011 Awesome man. Do you do the lettering on the CNC too? I thought I read a post by you where you mentioned an engraver just curious in any case. It's all done on the laser, not the CNC. Way back when I started experimenting in making the panels, I tried the CNC and it worked, but even as precise as the CNC was, it doesn't compare to the laser. And engraving on the CNC was very difficult. Nice! The yellow turned out really well, can I ask how you did it? Sure. After the panel was completely painted, I used tape (masking tape basically) that is 6" wide to cover the entire panel. Then I just laser cut through the tape and removed those sections. After that, I use yellow spray paint and lightly built up several coats. I found that if I put in on to heavy, it can bleed through the tape. After I finished this panel though I had a though of trying to put on a clear coat before the yellow. That may help seal the "stencil" before applying the yellow paint.
PanelBuilder Posted August 11, 2011 Posted August 11, 2011 Just finished up my prototypes for the Landing Gear and AHCP panels. Obviously I've not cut out a spot for the flaps indicator yet. I need to wait and see exactly how I will implement that. Nice thing about the laser though is I can just go back and cut it right out of this panel. :D Very nice indeed. These are the exact two panels I was going to ask you about, except I know you've been swamped. On the AHCP, can I suggest that the bottom layers extend down past the HARS fast erect? Then the top layer for that could be a separate small piece. Cheers, Colin
pitbldr Posted August 11, 2011 Author Posted August 11, 2011 Very nice indeed. These are the exact two panels I was going to ask you about, except I know you've been swamped. Yeah, things have finally let up some for the last week or so and I've been able to get some real work done! :D On the AHCP, can I suggest that the bottom layers extend down past the HARS fast erect? Then the top layer for that could be a separate small piece. I could easily make the switchplate for the AHCP panel longer so that the HARS fast erect panel could be mounted to it as well.
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