How To: Build a A-10 flight panel controller

[Tnt Snipes]

I am thinking of making a Custom Hotas(Just to bridge the Gap till i Buy my own TM WT) out of Saitek Cyborg EVO... Keeping MS Sidewinder as a Default Stick...

 

Test 1:Two Joysticks working simultaneously

I wanted to see if both of them work simultaneously... and it did... i configured Saitek's throttle as the common throttle and disabled the one on Sidewinder... Success!!

 

Test 2: Saitek Operation - Button Coversion to a Toggle Switch.

Have opened ou Saitek as you can see... From a laymans point of view i see a main card in the center and Left and Right Circuit card on both the sides which are connecting the buttons to the main card along with LEd's.

 

 

Risky Bit, TigerShark i need your help in guiding me what to do next. Aim is to Attach a Two Way Toggle switch replacing current buttons, as far as i understand the upper four wires coming out of left circuit are for LED's and the Lower four are catering the three buttons... In which the green is the Ground one.... Plan of Action is to Cut off two wires say Red and Yellow and attach them on the toggle Up and down Poles and attach the ground one in the Middle...

Is this the way to go about it...?

Pic as under

 

[TigersharkBAS]

From what I can see from the pics it seems it could be worth a try. But once again snipes, this is a thread dedicated to making your own game panel using the GroovyGameGear interface. I urge you to start a new thread entitles "Modifying a Joystick for use with toggle switches" or something so that someone else can use the thread in the future if they want to do what you are doing.

[Tnt Snipes]

From what I can see from the pics it seems it could be worth a try. But once again snipes, this is a thread dedicated to making your own game panel using the GroovyGameGear interface. I urge you to start a new thread entitles "Modifying a Joystick for use with toggle switches" or something so that someone else can use the thread in the future if they want to do what you are doing.

 

TigerShark,

 

Your thread titled "How To: Build a A-10 flight panel controller" and i am trying to make one based on your videos, instructions and then sharing my progress with you... I just made a new thread just that you could help me out... would really appreciate it....

 

Thanks

Edited March 20, 2011 by snipes
matter revised

[Mr_Burns]

Inspired by your thread I bought a GGG controller and Ive been playing DCS a bit learning the weapons systems, using the MFD's alot and I think I want bigger MFDs than the Thrustmaster 8" Screens so Im going to make my own MFDs (just the 20 OSBs though, no rotaries or rockers).

 

I will probably then use the remaining GGG contacts to do the weapons panel.

 

The other thing is the UFC and I like the thread on the POORMANS UFC?? Thing is those programmable USB pads are like $100 so its not quite poormans, maybe a touch screen option or panelbldr comes up good!

 

Of course, after I have mastered weapons, I suspect radio controlls will be the next most used interface and from there no doubt it will grow!

 

Anyway I have got really limited space so I am unsure how to build this 'dashboard' to sit on the desktop and not rock everytime I push a button, will have to have a play around.

 

My future thinking is to have the L and R consoles to slide out from under the desk.

[26-J39]

Many thanks to Tigershark, I too was inspired by this thread and thought i'd give it a go. Made with some scrap material and using some spare switches i had lying around the main cost was the GP Wiz Card and a few other switches I needed, came to around $50 USD. Some of the switching problems I solved by connecting the 3 pins of a switch to two joystick functions, some also by editing the LUA, now all the switch functionality is working 100% as it should. :D

 

Here's some pic's, Fuel panel left and Elec panel right. Notice on the left panel the red button for Gear Silence Horn! Had to add that one! :P Cheers

 

[TigersharkBAS]

Nice work J39! :-)

[DangerMouse]

Back about 12 years ago I built a pit using an "Epic Card," which was a card that actually went into the computer with a programming language to get the switches to do what you wanted. I recall being able to do upwards of 100 switches, more if you got an expansion module. That kind of thing still out there these days?

[Razi]

Hello, I'm going to follow this and attempt to create virtually an identical panel to start with and this is very helpful.

 

I would like to try and use the same sized, or as close to, switches as in the real cockpit. Does anyone have a rough estimation of the size of the switches on the electrical panel? I see that there are 2 larger ones and 4 smaller ones. The dimensions of the lever are what I think are most important. If no one really knows, I'm fine with just guessing myself. I'm thinking the big ones are 3/4" - 1" and the small ones around 1/2" - 3/4".

[159th_Falcon]

Any one here happens to know of some good (free) software to build

electrical schematics whit and test them?

 

I need to figure out how to do the following whit a series of push buttons;

Push A

Send signal to PC

Let LED A burn continuously (transistor is guess?, or was it a tyristor?)

 

Now for the difficult part,

Push B

Send signal to PC

Let LED A go out and B go on

 

Push H

Let LED B go out and H go on

 

etc etc etc for whatever number of push buttons im going to add.

[TigersharkBAS]

Design Spark PCB. Free. Good. Does schematics and PCB design.

 

Won't do testing though :-(

[159th_Falcon]

Thank's for the suggestion Tiger, though i need a testing ability cause my design skills arent that great. (none existing actually)

 

Anyway, im now trying out some Yenka software.

 

Can't come up whit a circuit as described in my previous post though.

Basically what i want it to do is the following

When i hit pushbutton A switch to Team Speak channel A and let LED A illuminate to indicate im in channel A

Now when i hit Pushbutton B switch to Team Speak channel B and let LED B illuminate to indicate im in channel B.

Can't be in 2 channels at the same time so LED A should go off.

 

And this for an X amount of pushbuttons where always only the LED of the last hit pushbutton will burn.

 

Anyone able to make such a circuit?

[Thermal]

I've just ordered a u-hid from these guys... http://www.u-hid.com/home/overview_board.php

 

The specs look suspiciously cougar like. But its a USB board that is a 32 button, 8 axis directx joystick. It can also drive LEDs apparently.

 

I'm thinking of shoving it inside my Cougar throttle and making it look like a hedgehog :)

[jwflowersii]

Thank you so much for your videos Tigershark, but I have a dumb question? When mounting the toggle switch to you panel is the nut flush against the switch? Basically, how do you get it flush against the panel without protruding?

 

Thanks,

John

[Razi]

Basically, how do you get it flush against the panel without protruding?

 

You need to counter sink the switch. He is using fairly thin ABS plastic so counter sinking it not possible, so his switches do rest on top of the abs. You could use thicker wood and counter sink the holes or you could build a layer underneath the top ABS layer which the switch is mounted to and then the top piece would fit over top. Hopefully some of this makes sense and is helpful.

 

Razi

[jwflowersii]

You need to counter sink the switch. He is using fairly thin ABS plastic so counter sinking it not possible, so his switches do rest on top of the abs. You could use thicker wood and counter sink the holes or you could build a layer underneath the top ABS layer which the switch is mounted to and then the top piece would fit over top. Hopefully some of this makes sense and is helpful.

 

Razi

 

That's what I figured, but just wanted to make sure. Thanks Razi!

[Mr_Burns]

Just got the GP Wiz 40 - is there any way to use the joy left / right as a switch controller, i tried to wire mine up last night, what I got was 32 buttons but DCS did not recognise (for example L1, L2, R2 etc.) as a valid command so whilst I though there would be enough buttons for my MFDs there arent!

[159th_Falcon]

Also got the WiZ and noticed the same, gladly before i soldered anything though.

 

Apparently there are some 3rd party apps that lets you configure quite a bit in the WiZ.

Look for it on the products page over at GGG.

Also, somewhere in this thread TigersharkBAS mentioned someone from GGG joined these forums and you could direct any questions towards him.

(dont remember the page of this thread though)

 

And for those who'd like to know, Team Speak 3 recognizes the joystick buttons of the WiZ, so i now use those instead of some wierd key commands that could produce conflicts. (TIR 5 software also recognizes it btw.)

 

***EDIT***

By the way....RandyT who has recently signed up here, is from Groovy Game Gear...if you have any technical quesions about the interface (like how do rotary switches connect to it) feel free to hit him up.

Edited April 3, 2011 by 159th_Falcon

[26-J39]

Just got the GP Wiz 40 - is there any way to use the joy left / right as a switch controller, i tried to wire mine up last night, what I got was 32 buttons but DCS did not recognise (for example L1, L2, R2 etc.) as a valid command so whilst I though there would be enough buttons for my MFDs there arent!

 

Thats weird, i've mapped 31 switch states that all work fine.

R1, L1, D1, U1, R2, L2, D2, U2 are used for potentiometers and cannot be used for switches, all the others should work as a switch, apart from 5v and ground obviously.

[TigersharkBAS]

Thats weird, i've mapped 31 switch states that all work fine.

R1, L1, D1, U1, R2, L2, D2, U2 are used for potentiometers and cannot be used for switches, all the others should work as a switch, apart from 5v and ground obviously.

 

 

Hey,

Not sure this is true as GGG calls these "digital inputs". However, having said that, I don't understand why they don't work as on/off switches.

 

Lemme get the name of the GGG guy.

 

Update: His forum name is RandyT

 

PM him and ask him to answer in this post so we all learn from it.

Edited April 4, 2011 by TigersharkBAS

[26-J39]

Hey,

Not sure this is true as GGG calls these "digital inputs".

 

I guess think of it more being digital input from the GP-Wiz to the PC.

 

Its advertised as a digital interface card. 32 button card w- 4 joystick axis, no mention in the fact sheet about using the joystick inputs as switches. Could be wrong tho. :P

Edited April 4, 2011 by 26-J39

[TigersharkBAS]

I guess think of it more being digital input from the GP-Wiz to the PC.

 

Its advertised as a digital interface card. 32 button card w- 4 joystick axis, no mention in the fact sheet about using the joystick inputs as switches. Could be wrong tho. :P

 

 

So could I mate...so could I! I could have a totally different understanding. I could experiment by adding a pot but curiously the documentation doesn't mention anything about which types to use, or even that it is possible.

 

Would be nice for RandyT to weigh in on this.

Edited April 4, 2011 by TigersharkBAS

[26-J39]

Silly me just thought of it, I think you can use the joystick axis for a switch with a bit of trickery. :P But I assume the GP Wiz will still send the signal to the PC as an Axis so alternate software may needed to function, ie- be able to be binded to a key.

 

Quite simple really, using a 3 pin switch connect a resistor ( specific value you will have to find for a desired deflection/axis movement ) across the NO & NC terminals, ground to COMM as usual. Also connect JUST the NC pin to the GGG.

 

This way when the switch is normally closed axis should be at zero, when u flick the switch power will flow through the resistor. :smilewink:

 

I might give this a try when i get home later, bought 2x GP cards just in case :D

 

Edit: Ok had to try this quickly before work.

 

First I tried to find the resistance required for a full axis deflection, this appears to be less than 10 ohms which is strange to me?

 

Tried my idea with the switch using a the 10 ohms resistor but it didn't work even tho testing the switch manually it did flick from 0 to 10 ohms... confused again :huh:

 

To cap it off I cut the resistor so it was wired basically as a switch and then it worked.. flicking the switch moved the axis from center to full.. more confused. :huh: :wacko:

 

Randy!! :music_whistling:

Edited April 5, 2011 by 26-J39

[RandyT]

So could I mate...so could I! I could have a totally different understanding. I could experiment by adding a pot but curiously the documentation doesn't mention anything about which types to use, or even that it is possible.

 

Would be nice for RandyT to weigh in on this.

 

Hi all,

 

No pots for the GP-Wiz. Theoretically you could use one, but it would act in a digital fashion.

 

You absolutely can use standard switches for the axis inputs, (that's what they are designed for) but there are a few limitations. You first must have software which can recognize the state of the axis in question, and act on it in a digital nature. Most which can, will view a 127, or middle point, as being at rest, or an open switch state. Likewise, a 0 will equal a closure of one switch and a 255 will equal a closure on a different switch. Each axis works like this, so the limitation in this type of configuration is that two switches on opposing ends of the same axis will not register separately. One will take precedence over the other when this occurs.

 

If the software cannot do this internally, it may be necessary to use software which can convert the activity on the axes to a key press.

 

RandyT

[26-J39]

Thanks for the clarification Randy.. I understand now, I think the confusion was the assumption an axis would use a pot. (axis being variable) So basically the 6 axis connections use a switch to get the on/off state and then can be assigned to an axis within game/A-10C etc. Sorted :thumbup:

[CubPilot]

Inspired by your thread I bought a GGG controller and Ive been playing DCS a bit learning the weapons systems, using the MFD's alot and I think I want bigger MFDs than the Thrustmaster 8" Screens so Im going to make my own MFDs (just the 20 OSBs though, no rotaries or rockers).

 

I will probably then use the remaining GGG contacts to do the weapons panel.

 

The other thing is the UFC and I like the thread on the POORMANS UFC?? Thing is those programmable USB pads are like $100 so its not quite poormans, maybe a touch screen option or panelbldr comes up good!

 

Of course, after I have mastered weapons, I suspect radio controlls will be the next most used interface and from there no doubt it will grow!

 

Anyway I have got really limited space so I am unsure how to build this 'dashboard' to sit on the desktop and not rock everytime I push a button, will have to have a play around.

 

My future thinking is to have the L and R consoles to slide out from under the desk.

 

First let me thank Tigershark for all the excellent work he has done in this thread. Writing instructions (making videos), if done well, takes more time than most would think (and it's well done IMHO!).

 

Guess I do need to qualify "the poorman's UFC" I put in my thread title. I was comparing it to the replica UFC that is being made in this thread by Boot910. He has done an excellent job replicating the UFC with only minor alterations due to the case design and minus back lighting. I think the last I knew cost was around $300+. So I guess the true poorman's UFC is really your mouse and clicking in the cockpit.

 

Anyways, this thread has resulted in me being bitten by the bug again (thanks a lot Tigershark ) and I'm going to add some of the AHCC switches to my modest desktop panel. The Master Arm, Gun/PAC Arm, Laser Arm, and TGP will be there. The rest probably not as I will run out of panel space, or may be included with some switch position rearranging.

 

Also I needed to light my UFC buttons for use in a darkened room so I got some green LEDs + a dimmer (this works very well with white letters on a dark background). However, the LEDs need to be mounted above the keyboard and away from the panel surface a bit to function properly.................. Soooo I'm in the process of making the top of the instrument panel that has the Fire handles and the Fire Exting Disch switch and the Red button that drops stores. The LEDs will hide under the ledge.

 

I plan on switches for the fire handles, Stores drop button, Fire Exting Disch switch, and adding a LDG Gear handle that is also switched. I figured I might as well get more use out of the PCB board from Leo that I use to convert my TM RCS rudders to USB.

 

Can you see how this panel building can very easily get out of control!

 

Mr Burns, good luck with your project. If you can use MDF material for the panel (I used 1/2 " thick MDF) it has enough weight to help with any tipping problems, and if the lower panel hangs over the edge of the desk it won't get pushed back in use.