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Post MotherBoard Specs Of Bricked TM Warthogs Here Please


twobells

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Little update from my side: just got the new board, in the end shipping from TM was pretty fast and not that expensive. I do live in the EU though. I pm'd BN880 but just read he isn't going to share anyting about his service overseas. Fair enough, albeit a bit of a bummer for a hobbiest like me. The cpu/chip seller also cancelled my order.

Just curious, I replaced my board in minutes (came in a regular envelope, think about that) and installed a so called "industry standard ESD Protection USB hub" from Amazon. Works, but does this help in any way? Or is it placebo?

Link: https://www.waveshare.com/usb-hub-4u.htm


Edited by Janssen
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  • 2 weeks later...

Update. Received a chip from @walmis. Added TVS diodes for ESD protection on the USB and power line. Swapped the chip and flashed.

ubuntu@ubuntu2004:/etc/psocdude$ sudo psocdude -C psocdude.conf -p CY8C24894 -c arduino -P /dev/ttyACM0 -b 115200 -U flash:w:TM_Warthog_Throttle_v23.bin:r

psocdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s

psocdude: Device signature = 0x001f
psocdude: NOTE: "flash" memory has been specified, an erase cycle will be performed
          To disable this feature, specify the -D option.
psocdude: erasing chip
psocdude: reading input file "TM_Warthog_Throttle_v23.bin"
psocdude: writing flash (16384 bytes):

Writing | ################################################## | 100% 20.27s

psocdude: 16384 bytes of flash written
psocdude: verifying flash memory against TM_Warthog_Throttle_v23.bin:
psocdude: load data flash data from input file TM_Warthog_Throttle_v23.bin:
psocdude: input file TM_Warthog_Throttle_v23.bin contains 16384 bytes
psocdude: reading on-chip flash data:

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 8.29s

psocdude: verifying ...
psocdude: 16384 bytes of flash verified

psocdude done.  Thank you.

Unfortunately, the chip behaves similar to the previous one - no voltage at the USB data pins. In addition, the flash memory can be easily read. I guess, I am missing something. Looks like there should be some fuse bits  programmed (not sure if PSoC1 have them at all) - has anyone an idea?

Upd. From all sources I could find, in order to program a PSoC1, a hex file is necessary. There are some example projects available from the Infineon website. I checked some of these (e.g. CY8CKIT_015_Example_Project) and found, that the file in addition to EEPROM contains some configuration sections. Presumably there are memory protection and other metadata. The later may contain CPU configuration. Some reading which seems to be relevant could be find in the links to the following thread: https://community.infineon.com/t5/USB-EZ-PD-Type-C/About-writing-HEX-file-to-the-internal-Flash-of-CY7C65219-40LQXI/td-p/217698 .

Now there are 2 problems: 1) Read or generate proper configuration 2) Write the configuration to the chip.

Upd2. PSoC1 ISSP Programming Specifications explain the format and content of the hex file. It basically contains the ROM and memory protection sections. No other information is necessary to program the device.

Created a LED Blink project with PSoC Designer, flashed the .hex file with psocdude. The project works as intended. Psocdude can write and read intel .hex files just fine. The security configuration functions are not implemented in arduino_hssp and possibly psocdude, therefore the ROM remains readable. Hence no need to convert a .rom file into .hex - the .rom firmware is fully operational, but the additional features of .hex are basically not implemented in my hardware.

Upd3. Implemented USB-UART bridge to see whether the USB lines are OK. They are. The device is recognized by the OS and is functional.


Edited by acidwise
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Ladies and gentlemen, I am proud to announce a great success in repairing the Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog throttle! Member #28658 is back in the ranks!

After successful experiments with a new PSoC1 chip (thank you, @walmis ), I finally determined the reason for my PCB "not working" with the reconstructed firmware. There was some misconfiguration in the arduino_hssp, which might play a role, as well as some hardware-specific feature, which I will discuss later. My throttle is now recognized by the system and fully functional.

In my case, the USB port seems to be damaged and required a replacement of the chip (CY8C24894-24LTXI). This is a QFN chip with a large GND pad, so it requires some hardware and skills to replace it. To provide an ESD protection, I have installed TVS diodes for USB data and power line. This is not mandatory, but hopefully prevents the device from getting damaged in the future.

In case of a firmware corruption, a bootloader method can be used to flash the device. If the bootloader is corrupted, this method may not be available. Provided the chip is electrically intact, the function of the throttle can be restored by reflashing it with an Arduino. This process will require some very basic soldering skills and is accessible to virtually everyone.

To reflash the Warthog throttle, some hardware and software is necessary.
Hardware:

  1. Soldering iron, solder, at best also some flux. Any, even the cheapest device and set from you local hardware store will do the job.
  2. Arduino Leonardo or Pro Micro
  3. Dupont cable, 5 pins, female to female (Pro Micro with male headers) or female to male (Leonardo with female headers), to connect your Arduino to the throttle PCB
  4. 5-pin header (at best - right-angled) for the throttle PCB

Optional: ESD protection. SP3400-02UTG (1x) and SMF4L5.0A-Q (1x) TVS diodes. The selection is dictated by the board tracing (D+/D- trace spacing and ESD6 pads). Placing the diodes on the PCB as well as replacing the CY8C24894-24LTXI chip will require high soldering skills and a hot air soldering station. In addition, replacing the PSoC without a board preheater cannot be recommended, since the entire lower side of the PCB is drawing heat away from the chip via its GND pad.

Software:

  1. Arduino IDE
  2. arduino_hssp (see attachment or Github). This is a firmware for the Arduino PSoC1 programmer. My version is a mixture of three versions by miracoli, trou and walmis, which is configured for Arduino Leonardo and the respective target chip.
  3. For windows users: VMWare Workstation Player
  4. For windows users: Some Linux image (Tested with Ubuntu 20.04.3)
  5. psocdude by walmis (it contains proper flash data for the target chip).

There are some instructions provided in the readme of the respective packages. This is already a long post, I will update it with more details on the programming later on.

If the PCB was removed from the throttle for repair, do not urge to connect it to your machine after flashing the firmware. The throttle will not start and there will be no USB connection at all, if the RH_H1X7 connector is not plugged into the board. In the same way, damaging the respective cable or breaking the right-side throttle off will render the throttle irresponsive. Restoring the connection should solve the problem. This is the hardware-specific feature I mentioned in the beginning, which rendered the chip "dead" and costed me 1 more evening experimenting with the chip and verifying its health status.

If the repair is successful and the necessary connections are done, there appear "HID-compliant game controller" and "USB Input Device" with VID 044F, DEV 0404, REV 0100 in the "Human Interface Devices" section of the Device Manager, as well as the "Throttle - HOTAS Warthog" in the "Game Controllers" panel.

Hopefully, these instructions will help someone to bring a beloved throttle back to life. I also hope, that Thrustmaster will not strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who would attempt to repair their own throttles and therefore poison and destroy the additional revenue of the company, but improve their products in the future. I would like to thank @Janssen and especially @walmis for their contribution.

Unfortunately, the chip is currently out of stock at major electronics distributors, but is available for back order. If there is an interest, we can try to order some and provide a hardware repair possibility in Europe.

arduino_hssp-master_acidwise_v3.zip TM_Warthog_Throttle_v23.bin psocdude-master_walmis.zip


Edited by acidwise
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  • 2 weeks later...

@acidwise

Thank you for your researching work!

I have some questions:

  1. Is it possible to reflash an existing CY8C24894-24LTXI chip or is it necessary to look for a replacement?
  2. How to determine that the chip is out of order and needs to be replaced? All 5 LEDs in the upper part of my HOTAS Throttle briefly light up when I connect the device to the USB.
  3. Is it possible to flash through the Arduino UNO or is it necessary to have a Leonardo or Pro Micro?

IMG_20220206_194116185_HDR.jpg

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Glad if that can help!

1. It is possible to reflash a chip even with a damaged USB part. However, in this case the joystick will not be recognized and a replacement will be necessary.
I have some chips at hand now.

2. If there appears a plug-and-play connection sound when you plug your device in, the USB connection is fine. It seems the firmware is damaged and the chip only needs to be reflashed. I would suggest the bootloader method first. 

3. It should be possible with most of the Arduino boards, just make sure to select proper pins or adjust the pin definitions in arduino_hssp/issp_defs.h accordingly. @walmis has a version optimized for STM32F103 "Blue pill", which in its turn has clones selling for 2$.

Be prepared for some hassle with Linux though, there were some issues installing the dependencies, but in the end it worked out for me. Unfortunately I did not document it well enough to share. Feel free to ask questions / show your way - it will be helpful for others.

HWarthog_Bootloader_Method.pdf


Edited by acidwise
grammar
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1 hour ago, acidwise said:

Glad if that can help!

1. It is possible to reflash a chip even with a damaged USB part. However, in this case the joystick will not be recognized and a replacement will be necessary.
I have some chips at hand now.

2. If there appears a plug-and-play connection sound when you plug your device in, the USB connection is fine. It seems the firmware is damaged and the chip only needs to be reflashed. I would suggest the bootloader method first. 

3. It should be possible with most of the Arduino boards, just make sure to select proper pins or adjust the pin definitions in arduino_hssp/issp_defs.h accordingly. @walmis has a version optimized for STM32F103 "Blue pill", which in its turn has clones selling for 2$.

Be prepared for some hassle with Linux though, there were some issues installing the dependencies, but in the end it worked out for me. Unfortunately I did not document it well enough to share. Feel free to ask questions / show your way - it will be helpful for others.

HWarthog_Bootloader_Method.pdf 1.57 MB · 0 downloads

 

@acidwise
Thank you for the answer!
Unfortunately I tried to use bootloader method many times on my PC with Windows 10 USB3.0 and USB2.0 ports as well as on my laptop with Win7.

This did not help, apparently the loader is also damaged.

It is strange that for this controller it is impossible to perform initial firmware flash via the USB port, but it is necessary to connect it with a cable to an external controller.

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Pity the bootloader method did not help. Does your PC recognize the device at all?

It is actually normal, that microcontrollers need a programmer. USB flashing with Arduino is a luxury, which is available to us due to a preinstalled bootloader and/or additional chips on the board.

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28 minutes ago, acidwise said:

Pity the bootloader method did not help. Does your PC recognize the device at all?

It is actually normal, that microcontrollers need a programmer. USB flashing with Arduino is a luxury, which is available to us due to a preinstalled bootloader and/or additional chips on the board.

Unfortunately no.

Windows Device Manager shows this device as:

Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)
Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43)
A request for the USB device descriptor failed.

I tried to connect this throttle to another PC with Win7 and USB2.0 ports, but got the same result with bootloader method.

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12 hours ago, acidwise said:

I would say, flashing is worth a try. If it does not work out, there is always an option to replace the chip.

@acidwise

I'll probably try the flashing, because still have nothing to lose.
I already have an Arduino Uno. If possible, please tell me the procedure (to which pins on the Arduino and PCB I need to connect cables, do I need to remove the PCB from the throttle, which Arduino libraries to use, etc.).

Thank you very much for your help!

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Allright, there should be instructions for an average user anyway, just hard to find time for it. I would suggest to remove the board completely for soldering and programming, but this is not really necessary. You can just solder the wires to the PCB as it is. The pinout is defined in arduino_hssp/issp_defs.h
With default settings, the connection should look like this:

Connection.png

The pinout for other arduinos will be basically same, unless you edit issp_defs.h. Using RAW instead of VCC pin for a USB-powered (not with 12V or so external supply attached) Arduino is OK. All you need regarding the Arduino software is discussed in one of the previous posts.

To flash the chip, you will need:

  1. Prepare the Arduino HSSP programmer: program your Arduino with the arduino_hssp sketch via Arduino IDE. This can be done under Windows.
  2. Prepare a Linux machine (e.g. VM) and copy psocdude and the firmware to it. I used a folder /etc/psocdude, but had to claim owner rights and allow executing scripts in it:
    sudo chown -R ubuntu:ubuntu /etc/psocdude
    sudo setfacl -R -m u:ubuntu:rwx /etc/psocdude
  3. Compile psocdude:
    cd /etc/psocdude
    ./bootstrap
    ./configure
    make
  4. Connect your Arduino to the Warthog PCB, then to your computer and then tunnel the USB device to your virtual machine.
  5. In the VM, open Terminal, go to your psocdude folder and make a backup first:
    sudo psocdude -C psocdude.conf -p CY8C24894 -c arduino -P /dev/ttyACM0 -b 115200 -U flash:r:backup.bin:r
  6. Optional: use a hex editor to replace the last 64 bytes in TM_Warthog_Throttle_v23.bin with the respective part of your backup.bin, since it seems to contain calibration data, as discussed here and here.
  7. Flash the chip:
    sudo psocdude -C psocdude.conf -p CY8C24894 -c arduino -P /dev/ttyACM0 -b 115200 -U flash:w:TM_Warthog_Throttle_v23.bin:r
  8. Disconnect the Arduino from PC and PCB, connect at least the RH_H1X7 and plug in the throttle for a test.
  9. If the throttle is recognized, congratulations! Proceed with calibrating it by using the TM software.

This is how successful programming looks like:

Flash OK.png

Usually the Arduino HSSP is connected as /dev/ttyACM0 (USB ACM device). You can check it by using:

dmesg | egrep --color 'serial|tty'

And here is my PCB with a swapped chip, added HSSP header and ESD protection for VCC and USB (marked):

IMG_20220118_220413 - Copy.jpg


Edited by acidwise
Added step: "compile psocdude"
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On 2/13/2022 at 12:10 AM, acidwise said:

Allright, there should be instructions for an average user anyway, just hard to find time for it. I would suggest to remove the board completely for soldering and programming, but this is not really necessary. You can just solder the wires to the PCB as it is. The pinout is defined in arduino_hssp/issp_defs.h
With default settings, the connection should look like this:

Connection.png

The pinout for other arduinos will be basically same, unless you edit issp_defs.h. Using RAW instead of VCC pin for a USB-powered (not with 12V or so external supply attached) Arduino is OK. All you need regarding the Arduino software is discussed in one of the previous posts.

To flash the chip, you will need:

  1. Prepare the Arduino HSSP programmer: program your Arduino with the arduino_hssp sketch via Arduino IDE. This can be done under Windows.
  2. Prepare a Linux machine (e.g. VM) and copy psocdude and the firmware to it. I used a folder /etc/psocdude, but had to claim owner rights and allow executing scripts in it:
    sudo chown -R ubuntu:ubuntu /etc/psocdude
    sudo setfacl -R -m u:ubuntu:rwx /etc/psocdude
  3. Connect your Arduino to the Warthog PCB, then to your computer and then tunnel the USB device to your virtual machine.
  4. In the VM, open Terminal, go to your psocdude folder and make a backup first:
    sudo psocdude -C psocdude.conf -p CY8C24894 -c arduino -P /dev/ttyACM0 -b 115200 -U flash:r:backup.bin:r
  5. Optional: use a hex editor to replace the last 64 bytes in TM_Warthog_Throttle_v23.bin with the respective part of your backup.bin, since it seems to contain calibration data, as discussed here and here.
  6. Flash the chip:
    sudo psocdude -C psocdude.conf -p CY8C24894 -c arduino -P /dev/ttyACM0 -b 115200 -U flash:w:TM_Warthog_Throttle_v23.bin:r
  7. Disconnect the Arduino from PC and PCB, connect at least the RH_H1X7 and plug in the throttle for a test.
  8. If the throttle is recognized, congratulations! Proceed with calibrating it by using the TM software.

This is how successful programming looks like:

Flash OK.png

Usually the Arduino HSSP is connected as /dev/ttyACM0 (USB ACM device). You can check it by using:

dmesg | egrep --color 'serial|tty'

And here is my PCB with a swapped chip, added HSSP header and ESD protection for VCC and USB (marked):

IMG_20220118_220413 - Copy.jpg

 

@acidwise

Yesterday I finally managed to try to reflash the PCB. I had an Arduino UNO controller and a Kali Linux laptop.
Pin VCC (PCB) was connected to pin PWR/5V (Arduino UNO) and GND to the Arduino's GND next to the 5V pin. Unfortunately, I got the error "psocdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding" when trying to backup, so I did not reflash.
The PCB was completely removed from the throttle case, only the USB cable remained. I connected PCB to the Arduino and Arduino to my laptop.

JST XH1.25 connectors turned out to be of poor quality and a couple fell apart when removing the cables, so I ordered new ones to replace. It's strange that Thrustmaster, with such thick metal of device, saves so much on conventional wiring...

 


Edited by Allan Stark
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Unfortunately Thrustmaster saved a lot on wrong things in this controller set, primarily the joystick gimbal.

Are you sure the Arduino is recognized as /dev/ttyACM0 or have you used the proper device? I guess I forgot one important step: after downloading psocdude, it should be compiled.

The psocdude/BUILD script downloads the wrong version of psocdude first, so comment the respective line or do a manual build:

./bootstrap
./configure
make

There are some dependencies, which should be installed first. Check psocdude/README.

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20 minutes ago, acidwise said:

Unfortunately Thrustmaster saved a lot on wrong things in this controller set, primarily the joystick gimbal.

Are you sure the Arduino is recognized as /dev/ttyACM0 or have you used the proper device? I guess I forgot one important step: after downloading psocdude, it should be compiled.

The psocdude/BUILD script downloads the wrong version of psocdude first, so comment the respective line or do a manual build:

./bootstrap
./configure
make

There are some dependencies, which should be installed first. Check psocdude/README.

Yes, I compiled psocdude and installed all dependencies and dev libs. /dev/ttyACM0 was present, when I connected Arduino to the USB.
TX/RX Arduino LEDs light up when I run the
psocdude, but then go out and I get this error.

Do I need to connect the PCB to the USB as well?

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11 hours ago, Allan Stark said:

Yes, I compiled psocdude and installed all dependencies and dev libs. /dev/ttyACM0 was present, when I connected Arduino to the USB.
TX/RX Arduino LEDs light up when I run the
psocdude, but then go out and I get this error.

Do I need to connect the PCB to the USB as well?

Most likely communication is not working with the arduino here. I think you will need to make sure the baudrates are correct here. Check the arduino code Serial.begin(baudrate) and psocdude baudrate flag ( which is -B as I recall)

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There is a problem with serial communication between psocdude and hssp. There are only a few possibilities:

  • wrong device used - double-check which device appears and disappears when you plug your arduino hssp in and out
  • device inaccessible to user - try running psocdude with sudo (or under root) or set proper rights for the device
  • wrong port settings - the hssp programmer is set to 115200, other settings (parity etc.) may apply
  • damaged arduino
  • wrong sketch

I would try to check the arduino first (e.g. load Blink sketch). You can check the serial communication (both in Windows and Linux) with a loopback test. A software loopback would actually check both points at once:

void setup() {
  Serial.begin(115200);
}

void loop() {
  if (Serial.available()) {
    Serial.write(Serial.read());
  }
}

Edited by acidwise
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  • 1 month later...
On 2/13/2022 at 7:10 AM, acidwise said:

Allright, there should be instructions for an average user anyway, just hard to find time for it. I would suggest to remove the board completely for soldering and programming, but this is not really necessary. You can just solder the wires to the PCB as it is. The pinout is defined in arduino_hssp/issp_defs.h
With default settings, the connection should look like this:

Connection.png

The pinout for other arduinos will be basically same, unless you edit issp_defs.h. Using RAW instead of VCC pin for a USB-powered (not with 12V or so external supply attached) Arduino is OK. All you need regarding the Arduino software is discussed in one of the previous posts.

To flash the chip, you will need:

  1. Prepare the Arduino HSSP programmer: program your Arduino with the arduino_hssp sketch via Arduino IDE. This can be done under Windows.
  2. Prepare a Linux machine (e.g. VM) and copy psocdude and the firmware to it. I used a folder /etc/psocdude, but had to claim owner rights and allow executing scripts in it:
    sudo chown -R ubuntu:ubuntu /etc/psocdude
    sudo setfacl -R -m u:ubuntu:rwx /etc/psocdude
  3. Compile psocdude:
    cd /etc/psocdude
    ./bootstrap
    ./configure
    make
  4. Connect your Arduino to the Warthog PCB, then to your computer and then tunnel the USB device to your virtual machine.
  5. In the VM, open Terminal, go to your psocdude folder and make a backup first:
    sudo psocdude -C psocdude.conf -p CY8C24894 -c arduino -P /dev/ttyACM0 -b 115200 -U flash:r:backup.bin:r
  6. Optional: use a hex editor to replace the last 64 bytes in TM_Warthog_Throttle_v23.bin with the respective part of your backup.bin, since it seems to contain calibration data, as discussed here and here.
  7. Flash the chip:
    sudo psocdude -C psocdude.conf -p CY8C24894 -c arduino -P /dev/ttyACM0 -b 115200 -U flash:w:TM_Warthog_Throttle_v23.bin:r
  8. Disconnect the Arduino from PC and PCB, connect at least the RH_H1X7 and plug in the throttle for a test.
  9. If the throttle is recognized, congratulations! Proceed with calibrating it by using the TM software.

This is how successful programming looks like:

Flash OK.png

Usually the Arduino HSSP is connected as /dev/ttyACM0 (USB ACM device). You can check it by using:

dmesg | egrep --color 'serial|tty'

And here is my PCB with a swapped chip, added HSSP header and ESD protection for VCC and USB (marked):

IMG_20220118_220413 - Copy.jpg

 

Hi aciewise

I'm interested in your mod about ESD protection for VCC and USB part. 

I'm not a techie, so I like to ask you following ESD protection devices that I find on the net are useful for Warthog throttle or not. (especially, 829999STICK)

https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/usb-2-0-and-3-0-emc-sticks/68205

If 829999STICK protects Warthog throttle from ESD, do you think it is worth for Warthog stick as well?

thanks,

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  • 3 weeks later...

I just had the same "bricked" issue occur to me on a Thrustmaster Warthog throttle purchased in 2018.  I ordered a replacement mainboard from Thrustmaster for about $70 US including shipping, and it shipped from France.  It came pretty quickly.  I think I had the order in by Monday, and it was here today (Friday).  Here's a picture of the replacement board, which is identical to the failed board except the size of the PCB was slightly smaller.  My original has 1808 printed on the silkscreen instead of the 2113 printed on this one.  I also highlighted 7 ESD pads that are not populated.  I saw on this thread that some people have populated ESD6, but what about ESD 1-5 and ESD 7?  

ThrustmasterThrottle20220506_161637-ESD.jpg

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On 4/19/2022 at 9:12 AM, Golgo11 said:

If 829999STICK protects Warthog throttle from ESD, do you think it is worth for Warthog stick as well?

According to the datasheet, this is primarily an EMC filter with ESD protection at the data lines. EMC is not an issue for a joystick, but ESD protection would definitely be good for Warthog. Unfortunately it is a bit overpriced and out of stock.

On 5/7/2022 at 12:05 AM, Xpendable said:

I saw on this thread that some people have populated ESD6, but what about ESD 1-5 and ESD 7?

ESD6 is an ESD protection on the USB power line of the chip (U1). I am not sure what the others do (too lazy to open the throttle and trace it), but it is definitely not at the USB data lines, which is the largest concern after the firmware suicide so far.

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On 5/9/2022 at 4:02 AM, acidwise said:

According to the datasheet, this is primarily an EMC filter with ESD protection at the data lines. EMC is not an issue for a joystick, but ESD protection would definitely be good for Warthog. Unfortunately it is a bit overpriced and out of stock.

ESD6 is an ESD protection on the USB power line of the chip (U1). I am not sure what the others do (too lazy to open the throttle and trace it), but it is definitely not at the USB data lines, which is the largest concern after the firmware suicide so far.

Hi, thanks much for your input.  The devices (829999STICK) only works as data line noise filter, so it would be a good ESD protection on USB power line of U1 to add some chip(s) on ESD6 base.

Would you let us know what kind of chips did you use on the circuit?

 

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On 5/14/2022 at 6:03 AM, Golgo11 said:

Would you let us know what kind of chips did you use on the circuit?

Check the older message for repair instructions:

On 1/21/2022 at 1:23 AM, acidwise said:

Optional: ESD protection. SP3400-02UTG (1x) and SMF4L5.0A-Q (1x) TVS diodes. The selection is dictated by the board tracing (D+/D- trace spacing and ESD6 pads). Placing the diodes on the PCB as well as replacing the CY8C24894-24LTXI chip will require high soldering skills and a hot air soldering station. In addition, replacing the PSoC without a board preheater cannot be recommended, since the entire lower side of the PCB is drawing heat away from the chip via its GND pad.

The ESD6 and similar diodes in SOD-123FL package can be mounted with a soldering iron without preheating the board. To mount the other one (uDFN-6), a hot air soldering station is necessary. The diodes I used are designed for ESD protection of USB 2.0 interfaces. One could also try to use other "basic" TVS diodes with low capacitance (about 1 pF or less) for the data lines as well, adding them to the respective R11 and R12 pads. I just wanted a more elegant solution and had no problems with soldering equipment.


Edited by acidwise
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  • 5 months later...

Hi, My Throttle is bricked now as well.
Reading through for the causes and fixes, both temporary and permanent.

Question - is the replacement board an exact replacement (i.e. some part so will brick again at some point)
Or does it have the USB voltage fixed on the replacement board (i.e. new version won't brick again)

I know nothing is guaranteed, as other things can brick it. But don't want to swap a part with known issues for a part that has the same known issues 😞  

Cheers

Stuntie

 

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

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  • 4 months later...

Hi, Serial number 118 bricked. Was in storage for a couple of years because of a chafed wire under the inboard throttle lever. I already ordered the correct 7-pin JST 1.25 cable from China - then noticed the throttle is bricked🤦‍♂️... was ok when I stopped using it so I had no idea.

Idk what to do really. Is there any alternative to buying a new board from TM? I can solder and I like to fix things. ~70 EUR for a new board is a lot for me right now as I have to pay my VPForce Rhino very soon. Been waiting in line for that one since September. I have another throttle but it's not very good. I have flown only choppers for the last two years and I've got a collective for that.

FWIW my current MB is Gigabyte X570 I Aorus. I tried to get the fw back in using 3 different computers.

Edit: I browsed this thread after posting and turns out there is something I can try and I only need to buy a microcontroller. Thank you @acidwise and @walmis!

Edit2: @bn880 fixed my PCB (recommended) and I fixed chafed throttle wiring myself. Hint: if you order 7-wire (for right throttle) or 5-wire (left) JST 1.25mm cables, ask for a flipped connector at one end. Just look at the original connectors closely, they only go in one way.


Edited by LeLv30_Superbus
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