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My modest MFCD Panel + Poor Mans UFC


CubPilot

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Nice pit CubPilot!

 

A question.

 

I see that you use 2 small monitors for MFCD.

I am gone do the same, but! I cant figure it out how to get the MFCD to show in the monitors...

I tried to read the guide to multi monitor set up, but I cant make it work in my .lua file.

I use 3 monitors as screens and 2, 8" vga for my MFCD.

If you can give me a look at your .lua for the MFCD I would be glad.

Or any other help would be nice.

 

I am using Win7 64bit and ATI/AMD video cards with my setup. My best vid card runs the main monitor, my older card runs the MFCD's (you don't need a high power card for the MFCD's), NOT in crossfire mode. I guess you only need one video card if you have three or more monitor connections on it and I have heard that you may get better frame rates with this configuration if your card has enough HP. All my monitors are VGA and my MFCD monitors are 8", 4:3 aspect ratio like yours.

 

For the DCS A-10C lua file I'm doing it the old fashioned way, as it was in the Beta builds. The new way of doing this had quite a few scratching their heads on how to use it. It may be a better way, but the old way still works for me. I did need to tweak the lua file a bit to fine tune MFCD display vid output positioning with some of the early non beta patches but lately this has not been a problem.

 

I would suggest that Notepad++ be used to make any changes to lua files, notepad/Word may add unwanted items to the file when saving and then the lua file might not work correctly.

 

My monitors are: Main 1600x1200, MFCD's each at 800x600 (you don't need higher resolution for MFCD's). If your monitors are a different resolution all these numbers will be different and dependent on your monitor resolutions.

 

Here's my MFCD lua file:

 

_ = function(p) return p; end;

name = _('Cubbys');

Description = 'name= above can be changed to your name if you wish. Then in DCS System/Graphics UI screen select "Cubbys" (or "your name") in the Monitors drop down list box.;

Description = 'Left MFCD on left monitor,Right MFCD on right monitor,Camera center configuration';

Description = 'Setup for Main monitor at 1600x1200, Left/Right MFCDs (8",4:3 ratio) each at 800x600, set in video card driver directly below Main monitor in extended screen mode';

Description = 'NOTE: type in 1600x1800 (Main height 1200+MFCD height 600=1800) in DCS A-10C Options/Systems Graphics UI screen for this configuration';

Description = 'Aspect Ratio= width/height, example as below 1600/1200= 1.33333333. But aspect ratio setting in sim is different, example 1600/1800= 0.88888888888889';

Description = 'Different screen resolutions will use different numbers';

Description = 'MFCD X and Y settings move MFCD displays on monitor. X=0 Y=0 is in upper lefthand corner of Main monitor. Width and Height refers to MFCD screen graphics size.';

Viewports =

{

Center =

{

x = 0;

y = 0;

width = 1600;

height = 1200;

viewDx = 0;

viewDy = 0;

aspect = 1.33333333;

}

}

 

LEFT_MFCD =

{

x = 120;

y = 1225;

width = 550;

height = 550;

}

 

RIGHT_MFCD =

{

x = 915;

y = 1225;

width = 550;

height = 550;

}

 

UIMainView = Viewports.Center

 

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

:pilotfly:


Edited by CubPilot

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Thx!

 

Will try it to.

Only difference is that I use 3 main screens! I have the whole view from left to right monitor.

And the 8" is below the center main screen.

I have 2, 19" left and right and a 27" as center. A total of 4480x1680 resolution.

I would post a pic, but I cant :mad:

Look here, I started a new tread about it......:helpsmilie:

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=1373893#post1373893

Win 10 64. GTX1080 ti 11 Gb, Intel i-5, 16 Gb ram, SSD 1,5 Tb, 2 Terrabyte HD, Monitor ASUS XG32V 144Hz, Slaw Milans Rudder Pedals BF109F :thumbup:, Joystick - HOTAS Warthog, Throttle - HOTAS Warthog, TrackIR V5. Pimax 5.

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More screens there than I have. So I might not be of much help.

 

I would try to only change the x value first to see if you can get the left MFCD to display on your middle monitor, maybe try 1500 to account for the monitor bezels. If that works change the y value next.

 

Do you get the MFCD output to display on any of your monitors?

 

 

 

:pilotfly:

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I got it now after re-install A-10C!

But only on my 3 main screens! For the first time I saw the left and right MFCD on the left and right screen!!

 

With this lua file:

 

_ = function(p) return p; end;

name = _('MFCD');

Description = 'Left MFCD on the left monitor,Right MFCD on the right and camera on the center'

Viewports =

{

Center =

{

x = screen.width / 3;

y = 0;

width = screen.width / 3;

height = screen.height;

viewDx = 0;

viewDy = 0;

aspect = screen.aspect / 3;

}

}

 

LEFT_MFCD =

{

x = 0;

y = 0;

width = screen.width / 3;

height = screen.height;

}

 

RIGHT_MFCD =

{

x = screen.width *(2 / 3);

y = 0;

width = screen.width / 3;

height = screen.height;

}

 

UIMainView = Viewports.Center

 

At least its a progress :)

Win 10 64. GTX1080 ti 11 Gb, Intel i-5, 16 Gb ram, SSD 1,5 Tb, 2 Terrabyte HD, Monitor ASUS XG32V 144Hz, Slaw Milans Rudder Pedals BF109F :thumbup:, Joystick - HOTAS Warthog, Throttle - HOTAS Warthog, TrackIR V5. Pimax 5.

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Could it be as easy as moving your MFCD's in the vid driver so they are under the left & right monitor instead of under the middle monitor & increase the height of L&R monitors to account for the small monitors? Probably not, but worth thinking about.

 

I'm afraid you are in waters that I have never been in.

 

 

 

:pilotfly:

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And I am out of air....

 

Will try.

Thx

Win 10 64. GTX1080 ti 11 Gb, Intel i-5, 16 Gb ram, SSD 1,5 Tb, 2 Terrabyte HD, Monitor ASUS XG32V 144Hz, Slaw Milans Rudder Pedals BF109F :thumbup:, Joystick - HOTAS Warthog, Throttle - HOTAS Warthog, TrackIR V5. Pimax 5.

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Got it solved by Slayer in the other tread!!

 

It was all up to the lua file!

 

_ = function(p) return p; end;

name = _('3 Screen + 2 MFCD');

Description = '3 Monitors + 2 MFCD'

Viewports =

{

Left =

{

x = 0;

y = 0;

width = 1280;

height = 1024;

viewDx = -1;

viewDy = 0;

aspect = 1.25;

},

 

Center =

{

x = 1280;

y = 0;

width = 1920;

height = 1080;

viewDx = 0;

viewDy = 0;

aspect = 1.5;

},

 

Right =

{

x = 3200;

y = 0;

width = 1280;

height = 1024;

viewDx = 1;

viewDy = 0;

aspect = 1.25;

}

}

LEFT_MFCD =

{

x = 1280;

y = 1080;

width = 600;

height = 600;

}

 

RIGHT_MFCD =

{

x = 2600;

y = 1080;

width = 600;

height = 600;

}

 

 

 

UIMainView = Viewports.Center

 

Now I got the left MFCD in the left 8" screen :clap:

Only need to move it a bit so it center in screen.

 

So the only thing I was needing was a good lua file.

 

Its my own fault that I cant do it right from beginning, I have really difficult to learn me those things, I am a big noob when it comes to read and understand things like that.

It is so simple if you understand how you do it, but for me its like a travel to the moon....

 

THX for all help!!

Win 10 64. GTX1080 ti 11 Gb, Intel i-5, 16 Gb ram, SSD 1,5 Tb, 2 Terrabyte HD, Monitor ASUS XG32V 144Hz, Slaw Milans Rudder Pedals BF109F :thumbup:, Joystick - HOTAS Warthog, Throttle - HOTAS Warthog, TrackIR V5. Pimax 5.

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  • 1 month later...

Cubpilot:

 

Awsome job on putting your pit together. Looks fantastic.

 

I sent you a PM, but wasn't sure if it went through, so figured I would post in the topic as well.

 

I'm working on setting up my very simplistic simpit and liked the Genovation 682 idea for the UFC. Purchased one on e-bay yesterday and am looking forward to getting it set-up.

 

I was wondering if you had a template of your button graphics that you would be willing to share and upload for those following in your footsteps?

Would save those of us who are trying to copy your ideas a lot of work.

 

Here is my current set up. 30in 2560x1600 main monitor with trackir, 12" 800x600 side display for MFCDs. I'm running a Radeon 7970 to power the bunch and a core i7 860 for the processor. 8GB of RAM and about 500GB of SSD storage (broken up into 4 separate drives).

 

Flight controls are CH Products mounted to a rodger dodger aviation floor frame. Just got that built and set up a week or so ago.

 

Thanks again in advance for the inspiration and any help you may be able to offer.

 

24c2fe3d.jpg

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PM sent a short time ago igluck.

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  • 1 month later...

A little more progress / improvements

 

Due to some personal issues needing all of my attention I haven't had very much time to spend on my "pit lite-not to real A-10C dimensions" project. Things are getting back to a more normal state and I have made some modest progress.

 

I have refined my UFC key markings and added some more items to the second layer of the keypad that I use for the UFC.

 

P1010285.jpg

Above is my original version with very few second layer keys programmed.

 

 

a-10c_ufc_key_labels-1.jpg

a-10c_ufc_key_lables-2.jpg

New Key Templates shown above

 

I made my own key template using PagePlus using Arial Narrow Bold for the font to allow the maximum point size to be used with the narrow keys. I wanted to go with black key backgrounds because some of the colored keys did not show up well under the green LED flood lighting that I am using and white lettering and a black background adds maximum contrast, which makes things easier to see. I did this because the key templates supplied from the keyboard manufacturer had black key outlines for cutting, it's pretty hard to see where to cut the keys out when the keys & cut lines are the same color. These templates are printed on my photo inkjet printer on 4x6 Epson Glossy Photo Paper, as opposed to using 24lb Bright White writing paper I used for the first version. The white letters really pop out on the glossy photo paper and using the publishing program makes my lettering much sharper (as opposed to using a photo program to letter using the .jpg template from the keyboard manufacturer). After I'm satisfied with the labeling I save the file as a .png and then print in on my inkjet photo printer. When cutting I use a Carl Rotary Trimmer and just cut off the white trim lines. Sometimes a bit of additional trimming is needed with an Exacto knife to fine tune the label.

 

 

a-10c_ufc_key_lables_installed.jpg

 

Above are the new key markings cut and installed.

 

So here's my logic as to key markings:

 

FIRST KEYPAD LAYER

 

1- Any key with a BLACK background and WHITE letters is an UFC key.

 

2- One exception to #1 above is the FUNC key (more about that later).

 

3- The Functions are marked with BLACK letters on a YELLOW background.

 

4- The Function key "FUNC" is Black letters on a YELLOW background with a primary background of BLACK. This is a reminder that to activate a function you need to first push the FUNC key and then choose the function you desire.

 

5- Keys with a RED background are on the first keypad layer and are not A-10C controls, these include the Keypad Layer Toggle Key & the Active Pause key. One exception is the ESC key, which has a white background with black letters. These I consider to be system control keys.

 

6- Keys with a BLUE background and WHITE lettering are on the first keypad layer and are additional A-10C controls not associated with the UFC keys.

 

7- The Master Caution & Eject keys have been combined on one "double" key. The Master Caution is on the first keypad layer.

 

8- On any non-UFC key with dual markings, the upper key marking is always on the first keypad layer, the bottom key marking is always on the second keypad layer.

 

 

ON THE SECOND KEYPAD LAYER

 

1- The EJECT key is activated when on the second keypad layer. This offers some safety from accidentally Ejecting as the most time will be spent using the first keypad layer keys.

 

2- Excluding the UFC keys and the Master Caution/Eject keys, second keypad layer key markings will have a white background with black lettering and be located on the bottom half of the key.

 

3- When the second keypad layer is active the KEYPAD LAYER key will have a LED activated inside a white box on the key. There is a "2" in black lettering inside the white box to remind you that white background and black lettering indicates second keypad keys, (Excluding the UFC keys and the Master Caution/Eject keys).

 

a-10c_ufc_layer_key_led_on.jpg

 

Second keypad layer activated shown above. The white dot is actually blue, but the camera cannot expose properly for the darkest and lightest parts of the photo at the same time. I did not make a cutout for the LED in the key label, it is very bright and when covered with the photo paper it is dimmer, but quite usable.

 

OTHER SECOND LAYER KEYS WITH NO MARKING

 

I wanted to eliminate the use of my normal keyboard if possible. With these keys added to the second keypad layer I think I have achieved my goal. The normal keyboard may still be needed for some other commands, like Video FPS and other such things, but those will probably be in the little used category.

 

LAYER 1 KEY = on LAYER 2 KEY

 

1 ==============> F1

2 ==============> F2

3 ==============> F3

4 ==============> F4

5 ==============> F5

6 ==============> F6

7 ==============> F7

8 ==============> F8

9 ==============> F9

0 ==============> F10

Continuing across the row to finish the "F" keys,

LTR =============> F11

MK ==============> F12

 

HACK ============> Weapon to Target View

ENT =============> Comms Menu ( \ )

FUNC ============> Look Back View

SPC =============> Map View-Current Point

Active Pause =======> Pause/Break

Canopy ===========> ESC

Master Caution =====> Eject

Labels ===========> Night Goggle *

- Hud Inten ========> Gain Night Goggles DOWN

+ Hud Inten ========> Gain Night Goggles UP

 

* The Night Goggle button as shown in the photos above will be moved to the the second keypad layer of the Labels Toggle key. It makes more sense to put the Night Goggle Toggle on the same layer as the Night Goggle Gain controls.

 

Now I have to find a function for the key vacated by the Night Goggle move to the Labels Toggle key, Hmmmmmmm.

 

The second layer keys are pretty easy to remember without key markings. The "F" keys can be used for views and comms just like on the keyboard and the same keys on the main keyboard are still functional. I do use VAC (Voice Activated Commands) but sometimes I don't want to use the headset mic and this also serves as a backup to VAC in case there is a problem with it mid game... errr sim.

 

This is still subject to "tweaking" as you can see, but it's getting very close to being done I think.

 

UPDATED: Second Layer Keys with A-10C / Options menu key binding assignments here . The zip file also contains the key markings and the keypad profile.

 

I can now do without my keyboard completely, for the most part. :D

 

a-10c_ufc_under_led_flood_lights.jpg

 

Above, The keypad under the green LED Flood Lighting. It does look better with your MkII eyeballs than the photo suggests.

 

 

 

:pilotfly:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

a-10c_ufc_key_labels-1

 

 

a-10c_ufc_key_labels_#1.jpg


Edited by CubPilot
correct error

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Joystick chair Mount continued

 

I took a few moments to fix my Warthog Joystick to my chair. It wasn't hard as it involved marking and drilling the holes for the joystick base and a few more for the PVC drain pipe (not gluing the PVC yet so I can determine the ideal joystick height).

 

I started with these parts and it shows my progress at that time here.

 

 

Continuing on from that point......

 

I decided to abandon the metal plate attachment mentioned in the previous post about this and give the screw in drain screen a try.

 

 

joystick_to_chair_mounting-5.jpg

 

I started by taking the base plate off the Warthog joystick and using it for a template to drill the holes in the offset shower drain. The outline of the round joystick base is used to center the drain to locate the holes.

 

 

joystick_to_chair_mounting-6.jpg

 

After getting the drain properly placed on the base plate I taped it down being careful not to move the drain.

 

 

joystick_to_chair_mounting-7.jpg

 

Flip both pieces over and mark the hole locations with a magic marker. Make sure that the marker blackens the full circumference of the holes from edge to edge and all around the hole. I had already drilled my holes so you don't see the black marks in this photo.

 

joystick_to_chair_mounting-8.jpg

 

This is what you have after drilling the holes being careful to drill centered inside the black hole locating circles made previously. The black "X" (barely visible at the top of the drain screen) marks the position of the USB cable exiting from the front of the joystick.

 

NOTE: It is important to screw this piece into the drain to find where the "X" has to be before marking and drilling the four mounting holes. It needs to be marked in a location where the threads are screwed in tightly enough so the joystick will not twist easily during use and the joystick is pointing in the correct position (straight ahead). This will avoid the joystick twisting during normal use.

 

 

joystick_to_chair_mounting-9.jpg

 

If you are careful this is the view of the other side after drilling the four holes.

 

 

 

joystick_to_chair_mounting-10.jpg

 

At each hole, the ridge at the bottom of the threads needs trimming to allow room for the joystick base screws. I used a small hand saw to do this, x4.

 

 

joystick_to_chair_mounting-11.jpg

 

Line up the "X" with the joystick USB cable outlet from the joystick base and install the screws. I used 4mm Socket Head Cap Screws. The largest diameter of the PVC drain strainer is a perfect match to the Warthog joystick base!

 

 

joystick_to_chair_mounting-12.jpg

 

Another view of the assembled parts.

 

 

joystick_to_chair_mounting-14.jpg

 

Volla! The Joystick is screwed into the PVC offset drain. I turned the offset drain 180 degrees from the position shown in post #87. It is just about perfect for me as far as how far aft it is located. I didn't want nor need to cut the leather seat. I used screws to fasten the vertical pipe because I may want to alter the height. I will glue it later. I'm toying with making a short joystick extension with a 15 degree twist of the handle dialed into it.

 

 

joystick_to_chair_mounting-15.jpg

 

A slightly closer view. The schedule 40 PVC pipe is pretty stable with very little wiggle. I could add a PVC Conduit clamp attached to the chair cushion base to steady it some more if needed.

 

The throttle is temporarily resting on a board clamped to the bottom of the keyboard tray. Not the best location, but OK for now.

 

I must say that having the joystick mounted in the center position is........ what can I say.............. A JOY! Sure beats having it on a desk and having to reach up to use it. :D

 

Getting out of the chair isn't hard. As it is now I simply stand up and move forward. As I pass over the joystick it barely brushes the family jewels. Of course I move slowly so as not to break something on the joystick, one has to have their priorities in the proper order! :lol:

 

 

 

 

 

:pilotfly:


Edited by CubPilot

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Win7 Pro 64 | Asus Rampage III Extreme |Swiftech H2O cooled: CPU, Video, N. Bridge | i7 980X EE @4.5GHz | 16 GB DDR3 @1726 MHZ | AMD R9 290X 4GB DDR5 +EK H2O block+Backplate | BenQ XL2730Z 2560x1440 @144Hz | Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500GB | 2 - Samsung HD 1TB | Pinoeer BD-RW | ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 PCIe Audio | CoolerMaster Haf-X case | PC Power & Cooling Silencer 760W PS | HOTAS Cougar w/Evenstrain Mod | HOTAS Warthog | TM RCS Rudders + Mods | TM MFD's w/monitors | TrackIR5

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  • 4 weeks later...
Very nice:thumbup:

 

Thanks. I keep plugging along when I have the time.

 

 

 

:pilotfly:

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Win7 Pro 64 | Asus Rampage III Extreme |Swiftech H2O cooled: CPU, Video, N. Bridge | i7 980X EE @4.5GHz | 16 GB DDR3 @1726 MHZ | AMD R9 290X 4GB DDR5 +EK H2O block+Backplate | BenQ XL2730Z 2560x1440 @144Hz | Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500GB | 2 - Samsung HD 1TB | Pinoeer BD-RW | ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 PCIe Audio | CoolerMaster Haf-X case | PC Power & Cooling Silencer 760W PS | HOTAS Cougar w/Evenstrain Mod | HOTAS Warthog | TM RCS Rudders + Mods | TM MFD's w/monitors | TrackIR5

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Updated Genovation 682, 35 key programmable keypad profile & Key markings for DCS A-10C UFC

Updated 5/19/2012

 

 

OTHER SECOND LAYER KEYS & KEYS WITH NO MARKINGS

 

I wanted to eliminate the use of my normal keyboard if possible. With these keys added to the second keypad layer I think I have achieved my goal. The normal keyboard may still be needed for some other commands, like Video FPS and other such things, but those will probably be in the little used category.

 

LAYER 1 KEY => on LAYER 2 KEY ( Key Stroke assignment on keyboard & DCS A-10C Options )

 

1 ==============> F1 ( F1 thru F12 keystroke are default DCS Options View assignments )

2 ==============> F2

3 ==============> F3

4 ==============> F4

5 ==============> F5

6 ==============> F6

7 ==============> F7

8 ==============> F8

9 ==============> F9

0 ==============> F10

LTR ============> F11

MK ============> F12

HACK ==========> Weapon to Target View ( F6+LCtrl )

ENT ============> Comms Menu ( \ )

FUNC ==========> Look Back View ( F4+LShift )

SPC ============> Map View-Current Point ( F10+LCtrl )

Active Pause ======> Pause/Break ( s )

Canopy ==========> ESC ( ESC )

Master Caution ====> Eject ( e+LCtrl )

Labels ===========> Night Goggle Toggle ( h+RShift )

+ Hud Inten =======> Gain Night Goggles UP ( h+LShift )

- Hud Inten =======> Gain Night Goggles DOWN ( h+LCtrl )

+ Steer ==========> Seat UP ( 8 Keypad+LCtrl ) [Keypad software has problems with Right modifiers]

- Steer ==========> Seat DOWN ( 2 Keypad+LCtrl ) [same as above]

+ Depr ==========> Auto Startup ( o ) [ I know, this is sacrilege, but it gives you a choice]

- Depr ==========> Auto Shutdown ( y )

 

 

Check the key assignments in blue with those in the DCS A-10C Options Menu, some of the above key assignments are not the same as the default DCS key assignments. If I deviated from the default DCS key assignments it was done to get it to work or just the choice I made for keys not assigned by DCS.

Now I have to find a function for the key vacated by the Night Goggle move to the Labels Toggle key, Hmmmmmmm. UPDATE: Changed the old Night Goggle Toggle key to BRIEFING TOGGLE, but this may change. If the briefing is long & needs scrolling to see it all, you can't scroll while on a mission,etc., the briefing works normally prior to starting the mission. I will probably put something else here but I don't know what it will be yet.

 

The second layer keys are pretty easy to remember without key markings. The "F" keys can be used for views and Comms just like on the keyboard and the same keys on the main keyboard are still functional. I do use VAC (Voice Activated Commands) but sometimes I don't want to use the headset mic and this also serves as a backup to VAC in case there is a problem with it mid game... errr sim.

 

This is still subject to "tweaking" as you can see, but it's getting very close to being done I think.

 

The keyboard label templates have some keys unmarked, but with various backgrounds. Use these to add your own "custom" keys. I think you can add lettering using a photo editing program.

 

I can now do without my keyboard completely, for the most part. :D

 

5/31/2012: A updated zip file is attached to correct some errors with the previous file. It includes the Genovation keypad markings and the profile for DCS A-10C.

 

 

 

 

P.S. If you have TrackIR or are using VAC (Voice Activated Control) I have two AutoHotKey scripts on the forum that might be useful to you.

 

By using AutoHotKey, if you have a HOTAS Warthog, you can still retain the plug & play of DCS A-10C with the Warthog. No need to re-invent DCS/HOTAS Warthog functionality using T.A.R.G.E.T. The AutoHotKey files will not impact game performance. I use a .bat file to load the two AutoHotKey files and VAC with one click (VAC automatically loads the proper profile & turns on), then click to open DCS A-10C.

 

For TrackIR, I mapped my joystick Pinky Switch to CENTER or PAUSE TrackIR. Center is a short press, PAUSE is a long press. It goes along with how the other buttons are programmed on the HOTAS nicely. PAUSE is very nice to have when using the clickable cockpit.

 

For VAC I mapped the COMM button UP to act as VAC's PTA switch. I was thinking that would leave the COMMS button IN position open for Teamspeak or similar programs.

 

These scripts could be easily modified for other HOTAS buttons.

 

More info and downloads at http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=87543 .

 

 

 

 

 

:pilotfly:

a-10c_ufc_genovation_keypad_053112.zip


Edited by CubPilot

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Hi Cubby nice work there, im with you on trying to eliminate the keyboard, hadnt thought of it until now but I could use the pinky on my X52 to be a modifier on my mini keyboard and not just on the hotas buttons....thanks!

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  • 2 weeks later...
Hi Cubby nice work there, im with you on trying to eliminate the keyboard, hadnt thought of it until now but I could use the pinky on my X52 to be a modifier on my mini keyboard and not just on the hotas buttons....thanks!

 

 

Cool! :thumbup:

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Win7 Pro 64 | Asus Rampage III Extreme |Swiftech H2O cooled: CPU, Video, N. Bridge | i7 980X EE @4.5GHz | 16 GB DDR3 @1726 MHZ | AMD R9 290X 4GB DDR5 +EK H2O block+Backplate | BenQ XL2730Z 2560x1440 @144Hz | Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500GB | 2 - Samsung HD 1TB | Pinoeer BD-RW | ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 PCIe Audio | CoolerMaster Haf-X case | PC Power & Cooling Silencer 760W PS | HOTAS Cougar w/Evenstrain Mod | HOTAS Warthog | TM RCS Rudders + Mods | TM MFD's w/monitors | TrackIR5

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  • 7 months later...

Hey mate, how is the pit going, surely you have modified it or added to it over the last 9 months!

 

Quick question, what did you use for the undercarriage selector switch handle, did you turn something on your lathe? I know there is a thread where other parts are for sale but Im trying to make a Eurofighter UCSS:

 

1253163890.jpg

 

So far I have cut up a ceiling rose, a hair spray lid and a door stop....

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Haven't been doing much lately to the "pit". :( Other matters have needed my attention and taken me away from it.

 

The newest addition is modest. I added a switch just below the LDG Panel for the seat height adjustment. I just bent up some aluminum to mount the switch to (it's angled similar to the real switch), but I plan to use some MDF or something to cover the back side where the wires attach to the switch. It's open right now. It comes in quite handy when some info on the HUD "falls off" the HUD. I just raise or lower the seat until everything is shown on the HUD again. :D

 

Been thinking about a CDU, well the functions of the CDU, it might not look like the real thing. But, it's winter and I don't have the extra $$ to do much with it.

 

I need to do something with my temporary throttle mounting because it isn't in the ideal position, it's too far in towards the middle and makes me have my chair off center. I think I will mount it to the bottom of my table & move it further to the left so I can sit centered with the instrument panel.

 

The LDG knob I made myself. It's made of aluminum that I had on hand (yes I turned it on my lathe), so it won't light up (I don't have a input PCB to do that anyways). The handle is 1" x 0.25" aluminum bar stock. I think there are some pics of it in this thread somewhere.

 

 

:pilotfly:


Edited by CubPilot

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Win7 Pro 64 | Asus Rampage III Extreme |Swiftech H2O cooled: CPU, Video, N. Bridge | i7 980X EE @4.5GHz | 16 GB DDR3 @1726 MHZ | AMD R9 290X 4GB DDR5 +EK H2O block+Backplate | BenQ XL2730Z 2560x1440 @144Hz | Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500GB | 2 - Samsung HD 1TB | Pinoeer BD-RW | ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 PCIe Audio | CoolerMaster Haf-X case | PC Power & Cooling Silencer 760W PS | HOTAS Cougar w/Evenstrain Mod | HOTAS Warthog | TM RCS Rudders + Mods | TM MFD's w/monitors | TrackIR5

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  • 1 year later...

New additions

 

Well, it isn't a lot, but it is progress. I finally got around to doing something about my throttle placement. having it clamped to my keyboard tray sucked.

 

 

DCS_A-10C_pit-01.jpg

 

So, pictured above is the slide out shelf idea that I came up with (I doubt I'm the only one who did something similar). The slides are heavy duty, 100 lb If I remember correctly, when clamped there is very little wobble. The only thing left to do is come up with a locking mechanism at the open position, using clamps at the moment.

 

 

DCS_A-10C_pit-02.jpg

 

This is the side view and also shows the base for the Fuel Panel. Had room for it so just had to make it. This is not to actual scale, nor are the switches as on the real panels, I used mini switches. I left a small space between the Warthog throttle and the Fuel Panel so I can still use the Warthog cover I got from Deadman. Also the Fuel Panel base has been cut down in height after this picture was taken so its front edge matches the throttle base height.

 

 

DCS_A-10C_pit-03.jpg

 

The beginnings of the Fuel Panel. The metal shafts of the Fuel Disable Push/Pull Switches can bee seen on the right side of the panel. The countersunk screws hold a small sub-panel for the Push/Pull Switches.

 

 

DCS_A-10C_pit-04.jpg

 

The back side of the Fuel panel shows the Push/Pull Switches mounted on the sub-panel. They are positioned so that when the switch is pulled only the plastic knob is seen, the metal shaft isn't.

 

 

DCS_A-10C_pit-05.jpg

 

Added the rest of the switches. Yes, these are SPDT ON/OFFswitches, but, they were ~$1 less for each switch as opposed to SPST ON/OFFswitches (Digikey).

 

 

DCS_A-10C_pit-06.jpg

 

The right side of the Fuel panel base showing the RCVR Door lever. The black UHMW tape has been applied to the MDF and the back side of the gold color washer. It has adhesive on one side, the other side is very slick. This results in a very smooth movement of the lever. It is as smooth as using a ball bearing! The two silver screws are the lever stops. The lever is longer than it needs to be at this point.

 

 

DCS_A-10C_pit-07.jpg

 

Throw the lever the opposite way and the microswitch is activated & the RCVR Door opens.

 

 

DCS_A-10C_pit-08.jpg

 

A good view of the bolt, lever, flat washer, spring, cupped washer, and the nyloc nut (from right to left). What may look like threads between the washers is the spring, which is tightened so that the coils bind (touch each other), this adjusts the friction. I used the same method on my LDG lever. It is very smooth and yet stays put.

 

 

DCS_A-10C_pit-09.jpg

 

This is the back of the Fuel Panel (top left, bottom right) showing how I attached the GP-Wiz40 USB card. The white spacers provide the needed room between the card and the aluminum bracket to prevent electrical shorts.

 

 

DCS_A-10C_pit-10.jpg

 

The Fuel Panel base is back together, all wiring is done (w/a common GND for all switches). The DB15 cable is for the RCVR LT pot. It connects to my Leo Bodnar USB card on the main instrument panel that has spare axes available. The DB15 connector (upper right) is used for connecting switches from other switch panels (ELEC PWR panel). The other panel wiring wasn't done at this DB15 connector when this pic was taken.

 

 

DCS_A-10C_pit-11.jpg

 

Here's the almost finished Fuel Panel after applying the switch markings (printed on glossy photo paper). This is topped with some plexiglass from Home Depot that has one "matte" side to it to reduce glare.

 

I still need to paint the RCVR LT knob and the base. The knobs (except for the Fuel disable knobs) were purchased from Deadman, all top drawer stuff at reasonable prices!! I used the original knobs that came with the Push/Pull switches only because I was afraid that the knobs supplied by Deadman were a bit small diameter wise for the shafts/threads on these switches.

 

I have a switch for the Line Check instead of a button. I don't think it is modeled in the sim and I plan on using the switch to turn ON/OFF joystick decreased sensitivity in LUA script for use when refueling. Figured that would be a good place for it.

 

 

DCS_A-10C_pit-12.jpg

 

The other item I made is the ELEC PWR Panel. It's not even close to being the same size as the original. It is crunched up to fit the space where I wanted to put it on my main panel.

 

 

DCS_A-10C_pit-13.jpg

 

Back side of ELEC PWR panel prior to wiring.

 

 

DCS_A-10C_pit-14.jpg

 

ELEC PWR spacer attached to gray removeable "wing". The hole near the middle is for the wires, there is an angle secured at the right side of the hole on the back side to secure the wiring so it can't be pulled off the switch terminals (my cat would love to do that).

 

 

DCS_A-10C_pit-15.jpg

 

Installing the switch plate and the last screw. The screws are coated black and are really used for drywall, but the course thread is ideal for MDF if you size the hole correctly to prevent the MDF from cracking.

 

 

DCS_A-10C_pit-16.jpg

 

I added a DB15 connectors bracket to the back of the main instrument panel for the Fuel Panel RCVR LT pot and the ELEC PWR panel wiring.

 

 

DCS_A-10C_pit-17.jpg

 

I have had the canopy switch done for quite some time.

 

 

DCS_A-10C_pit-18.jpg

 

I also did the seat height switch. You might be wondering why the seat height switch, what good does that do? I find it useful if info on the HUD is "falling" off the HUD (at least in vertical directions), if it is I simply adjust my seat a bit.

 

I'm using Helios this time to bind all my switches and the RCVR LT pot to DCSW. Getting tired doing switches in the LUA files (& I don't know how to do pots in LUA). We will see how Helios gets along with new versions of DCSW in the future.

 

That's about it at the moment!

 

 

 

:pilotfly:


Edited by CubPilot

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Looking great CubPilot :thumbup: Like the way you have mounted the push-pull switches for the filling disable. I mgiht have to borrow that idea :music_whistling:

 

Looking forward for more pictures on your progress

 

Cheers

Hans

 

Good to see that you are still around! If you need any questions answered about the disable switch mounting I will be happy to elaborate.

 

Cheers,

 

:pilotfly:

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Win7 Pro 64 | Asus Rampage III Extreme |Swiftech H2O cooled: CPU, Video, N. Bridge | i7 980X EE @4.5GHz | 16 GB DDR3 @1726 MHZ | AMD R9 290X 4GB DDR5 +EK H2O block+Backplate | BenQ XL2730Z 2560x1440 @144Hz | Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500GB | 2 - Samsung HD 1TB | Pinoeer BD-RW | ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 PCIe Audio | CoolerMaster Haf-X case | PC Power & Cooling Silencer 760W PS | HOTAS Cougar w/Evenstrain Mod | HOTAS Warthog | TM RCS Rudders + Mods | TM MFD's w/monitors | TrackIR5

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Cubby, this reminds me of my Falcon mini console I built for use with my Obutto (though I don't have a router and I think you did a better wood/mdf working job)

 

2014-04-15%2021.59.36.jpg

 

It's attached to my left rotating acrylic tabletop arm (no table attached to that arm), so that I can rotate it out of the way when it's not in use.

 

The ICP is an old Aimsworth one. The screens are Lilliput UM80s removed from their casings, and the MISC panel switches are hooked up to a Bodnar BBI-32 card. Most of the structure is 1/2" plywood except the front. The grey part is 1/4" MDF. The backplate for the MISC Panel switches is the thinnest underlayment I could find at Lowe's (don't remember the thickness), and the frontplate is 1/4" MDF. The labels were printed out with a Brother labelmaker that does white labels on black background. After placing the labels, I did a spraypaint clearcoat, both to keep them on and to reduce visibility of the edges of said labels.

 

When I can afford to do so, I plan on getting a third UM80 to serve as a CPD. I really try to go with the less is more approach... I don't have the time, patience, or cash to go with a full-bore cockpit that'll take years to build. :joystick:

 

Building an A-10C UFC might be an option down the road also... if I make it small enough to fit where the F-16 ICP is now. Of course, I can use the ICP in DCS A-10C, but the non-number keys wouldn't have proper labels... I'd find it hard to do in the thick of things. :doh:

 

Glad to see you back around. I'm getting lots and lots of good use out of the throttle HS kit, and by the way, it works perfectly with Realsimulator's TUSBA.

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Systems: Falcon NW Talon: Ryzen 9 5950X @4.9GHz, 64GB DDR4, RTX 3090 FE; Falcon NW Mach V: Core i7 3930K @3.2GHz, 32GB DDR3, GTX 1080 FE

Cockpit: MonsterTech MTX F, 42" 4K TV, HP Reverb G2, Oculus Rift S, PointCTRL

Controls: RS F16SGRH CE, RS F18CGRH, VPC T-50CM2, VFX, WarBRD (Grips); VPC T-50CM2, RS FSSB R3L (Bases); Winwing F/A-18C, VPC T-50CM3, VPC T-50CM, TM Warthog, Cougar (Throttles); VPC ACE2 (Rudders)

 

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That's a pretty cool panel that you made there RogueSqdn.

 

I can't do a full cockpit either, hence my strange mix of very non-lifelike switch panels and some concessions made to actual copies of the real thing (Fuel knobs). I do try to copy the general layout of the switch panels if I can.

 

Glad the throttle kit is still working for you. I think it will outlast all of us. :smilewink:

 

 

 

:pilotfly:

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Win7 Pro 64 | Asus Rampage III Extreme |Swiftech H2O cooled: CPU, Video, N. Bridge | i7 980X EE @4.5GHz | 16 GB DDR3 @1726 MHZ | AMD R9 290X 4GB DDR5 +EK H2O block+Backplate | BenQ XL2730Z 2560x1440 @144Hz | Samsung 850 EVO SSD 500GB | 2 - Samsung HD 1TB | Pinoeer BD-RW | ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 PCIe Audio | CoolerMaster Haf-X case | PC Power & Cooling Silencer 760W PS | HOTAS Cougar w/Evenstrain Mod | HOTAS Warthog | TM RCS Rudders + Mods | TM MFD's w/monitors | TrackIR5

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That looks great Cubby, I love the simple drawer slide with the fuel panel. I also like RogieSqdn of the move away pit, I tried to do that with my EFA attempt but it ended up on a trolley!

 

And to think I threw away 2 of those old monitor stands which were fully rotatable and moved in and out, the ones you clamped to your desk....this is why I horde stuff - you never know when it may find a use in your pit!

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