My modest MFCD Panel + Poor Mans UFC

[Ashy Larry]

Has someone actually done the part of the mod that he has done with the genovation 682 u that cub has done. i did the same setup that he has done and i am having quite the troubles and could really use some help

[Ashy Larry]

Cub i sent you a pm. i hope you are still avialable to help i am needing some help.

[CubPilot]

PM sent!

 

 

 

:pilotfly:

[Ashy Larry]

Well here is my version of my pit. just thought i would share. as you can tell i copied some of the ideas from Cubpilot and the worked out great. he also helped out with the 682 issues i was having. eventually i will add more hehe! next addition will be some lilliputs and that will do. hope you guys like! Thanks again Cubpilot!!!

[Galwran]

How do you attach the joystick/pvc pipe to the chair?

[Ashy Larry]

How do you attach the joystick/pvc pipe to the chair?

The bottom part of my chair is mostly a metal frame. however in the front of it is a flat metal piece that is vertical. so i cut a piece of it think 3/8 or 5/8 plywood and fitted between two bolts that were on the frame. And pre drilled holes and mounted the plywood piece to it. This may help with the explanation.

[Mr_Burns]

Supposed to be getting aWarthog for my 40th on Tuesday,first mod is to use the pvc pipe to create a center Stick holder between my legs.

 

Any advice after your build!! Is there a PVC pip it sits straight in or best getting a cap and screwing it to that?

 

Is an extension better than mounting the stick higher or is that really for choppers?

Edited June 6, 2016 by Mr_Burns

[CubPilot]

Supposed to be getting aWarthog for my 40th on Tuesday,first mod is to use the pvc pipe to create a center Stick holder between my legs.

 

Any advice after your build!! Is there a PVC pip it sits straight in or best getting a cap and screwing it to that?

 

Is an extension better than mounting the stick higher or is that really for choppers?

 

There are a few things. I think that the earlier poster did a good job with his chair Joystick mount, but the joystick is a bit too tall for my tastes.

 

I designed my mount to be as sturdy as it could be using this material and mounting it on an office chair (still haven't done anything about locking the swivel).

 

First, I suggest using Schedule 40 PVC drain pipe, it has a thick wall. I used 2-3/8" to 2-1/2'' outside diameter pipe (whatever the standard size that fits the fittings). Also, I kept the pipe lengths as short as I could as shown below. The shorter the lengths of pipe the sturdier /less flexing there will be. I also used hardwood, about 3/4" thick, it holds the screws better than soft wood & you don't need much (be sure to pre-drill any holes needed for screws, etc.).

 

 

A lot of the info about what fittings I used I believe is still there back further in this thread. I found that a shower drain matched the diameter of the Warthog's joystick base perfectly, so that is what I used. It comes as a kit, the bottom drain, rubber gasket, and the top of the drain which you would see in use And screws into the bottom part of the drain. The top, what the Warthogs base is attached to, is threaded to fit into the drain base, the part of the drain that you don't see when using this stuff for its intended use. There are two flavors of shower drains, an offset style, which is what I used and one that is not offset. This gives you some choices about what works for you the best. The offset drain can be used as I have it or turned 180 degrees to take a little bit further away from you, more choices. Most of the details have been covered in the previous posts on this subject.

 

 

Notice how short the pipe is between the flange fitting and the 90 degree elbow, no flexing there. Also I looked for a fitting that had a thick flange (touching the wood), again thinking about strength, thicker is better. The vertical wood piece fits into a dado on the horizontal wood piece, it's a tight fit, glued and screwed. That is not moving either. To the right you can see a piece of 1/16" aluminum that attaches to the wood and then to the front bolts of the chair/base, the second attachment is not shown. To the left notice the small screw going up into the front of the chair, there three sheet rock screws holding the front of the bracket. This is the only pipe joint which I glued. The vertical joints are held in by three sheet metal screws (pre-drill the holes). Why do this? So i could experiment with different joystick heights with out making the whole joystick mount over again. I may just leave the screws in there, never know when I might change my mind about it. Also note that you can move the dado fore and aft if you plan ahead. This would allow you to keep the horizontal fittings/pipe as short as I have it, but there are limits, no more that about 1/2" from either end of the horizontal board.

 

Notice that I cut the flange flat so the round part of the horizontal fitting fits up against the wood, just some more insurance against flexing / movement. Originally the vertical wood piece was as wide as the top piece of wood. I trimmed the bottom of the vertical wood piece as shown so that I would not hit sharp edges with my legs if I were to tuck them under the chair.

 

Been thinking about how to lock the Joystick to the PVC so it doesn't turn. I think if I cut one side vertically through the threads in the bottom half of shower drain I can then attach two 90 degree brackets with which I can attach to the drain (on each side of the vertical cut) & tighten the thread up on the mating part with the joystick screwed to it using a screw through the 90 degree brackets.

 

Now about the second question you had about an extension. Raising the whole joystick higher will not do anything to alter the sensitivity of the joystick for helicopters, AA refueling, etc. Only a joystick extension between the joystick base & the joystick handle will do it. Keep in mind, the longer the joystick shaft the more leverage, and hence force, that you can very easily impart to the plastic gimbal parts in your Warthog base, to the point of breaking something in there.

 

Also, the longer the joystick shaft, the more movement you will get measured at the top of the joystick. It could come to the point that you would hit your body (or desk, instrument panel, etc.) before you had full travel in your joystick!

 

I know these examples are extreme cases, but just wanted to highlight them a bit to get you thinking about this stuff. I think Metalwood suggested to limit extensions to about 3 to 4 inches. If he is still around you might ask him what he thinks & maybe how longer ones held up.

 

Cheers

 

Edited June 10, 2016 by CubPilot

[hansangb]

well done!