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Anyone connected a potentiometer to A-10C yet?


TigersharkBAS

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Has anyone had any luck using a card like Leo Bodnars BU0836A to control a dial in the A-10C cockpit. Something like a panel lighting dial or formation lights, or a volume knob?

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Pilot avatars for DCS Logbook

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I remember someone was experimenting with it, but i don t know how succefull they were.

If i remember well they were Russian or the like, cirylic all over.

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Has anyone had any luck using a card like Leo Bodnars BU0836A to control a dial in the A-10C cockpit. Something like a panel lighting dial or formation lights, or a volume knob?

 

I have potentiometer for zoom.

 

But i can do some experiments and report back if im succesful.

A-10C Warthog | AJS-37 Viggen | F-5E Tiger II | Mig-15bis | MiG-19P Farmer

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Look forward to it!

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Creator of:

 

F-18C VFA-195 "Dambusters" 1998 CAG Livery

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=213788

 

F-18C VFA-195 "Dambusters" July 2001 CAG Livery

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=215950

 

Pilot avatars for DCS Logbook

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=221160

 

How to make a DCS A-10C Panel

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=65998

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I have potentiometer for zoom.

 

But i can do some experiments and report back if im succesful.

 

Well, no luck. Its beyond me atleast as Im not so skilled with this. If somebody has some good ideas I can try them out as i have the setup ready.

A-10C Warthog | AJS-37 Viggen | F-5E Tiger II | Mig-15bis | MiG-19P Farmer

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Has anyone had any luck using a card like Leo Bodnars BU0836A to control a dial in the A-10C cockpit. Something like a panel lighting dial or formation lights, or a volume knob?

Hi,

 

This card allows you up to 8 analog axes which is very nice. However, in BS at least, we cannot connect analog axes to simple pot inputs like the Abris brightness. We have to send data to lua over TCP for that.

 

Cheers,

Colin

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I've bought a U-HID card which is similar. Rotary encoders, where you end up pulsing commands via a directx button or HID keyboard keypress would work, but there would not be absolute physical stops. There is also an sdk for it.

 

Isnt the issue though getting the sim to understand the input? i.e having the incremental up/down in the sim translated to a range of values that DCSW understands?

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I've bought a U-HID card which is similar. Rotary encoders, where you end up pulsing commands via a directx button or HID keyboard keypress would work, but there would not be absolute physical stops.

This could work without lua if the board can send the keypress for up when you turn the encoder right and the keypress for down when you turn the encoder left. There are no stops with an encoder and no way to poll for position, say at startup.

 

Cheers,

Colin

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Guys....let's try to stay on topic. I meant specifically pots and not rotary switches.

 

I agree with posts above that it seems more a problem of getting dcs to understand the values rather than hooking it up.

 

The BS solution seems to be a step in the right direction. Seems like lua programming will be required.

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Creator of:

 

F-18C VFA-195 "Dambusters" 1998 CAG Livery

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=213788

 

F-18C VFA-195 "Dambusters" July 2001 CAG Livery

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=215950

 

Pilot avatars for DCS Logbook

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=221160

 

How to make a DCS A-10C Panel

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=65998

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Aww....crap, sorry guys. I think I made a mistake, I've actually done it some time ago. The programming I said previously, it's already achieved in Helios thanks to Gadroc's great work.

 

Just add two "interfaces": A-10C as output, and your BU0836 as input.

 

Keep the BU0836 tab active.

 

Go to the output menu and choose A-10C from all those interfaces, unfold "Light System".

 

Find the light you want, say Engine Instrument Panel light. If you wanna control it with your slider 0, then just do some drag n' drop work to bind them together.

 

There might be some minor script adjustment required because you might need to fit the ranges of the two, can't recall exactly, but it's do-able. Look into it and good luck.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guys....let's try to stay on topic. I meant specifically pots and not rotary switches.

 

I agree with posts above that it seems more a problem of getting dcs to understand the values rather than hooking it up.

 

The BS solution seems to be a step in the right direction. Seems like lua programming will be required.

 

This is the only pot-to-keystroke solution ( ie no lua) I know of:

 

http://www.hagstromelectronics.com/products/kead6.html

 

Cheers,

Colin

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  • 1 month later...

so I was trying to connect pots to my old joystick's interface and noticed that only a small portion of the rotation affects the slider axis. I thought it was the pot that i used, but i tried the original pots, and for some reason it also works like that. except a little bit less buggy than my pot, but still.

 

so, I was wondering, does it have anything to do with my pot?

when I go to the store buy potentiometers, they always ask me how many Ks, and I have no clue what it would affect in the axis, anyone knows?

 

thanks

Rafael

 

Ryzen 7 1800x @ 4ghz | MSI GTX 980ti | 32gb DDR4 Ballistix 2400Mhz | Asus ROG Crosshair VII Hero (wi-fi) | 480Gb Kingston NVMe ssd | Western Digital 1TB x2 | EVGA 850w PSU | Noctua NH-D14 | NZXT S240 | Windows 10 Pro 64bit | 4k 50" Philips android TV | Dell P2418D | Oculus Rift S | Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas

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so I was trying to connect pots to my old joystick's interface and noticed that only a small portion of the rotation affects the slider axis. I thought it was the pot that i used, but i tried the original pots, and for some reason it also works like that. except a little bit less buggy than my pot, but still.

 

so, I was wondering, does it have anything to do with my pot?

when I go to the store buy potentiometers, they always ask me how many Ks, and I have no clue what it would affect in the axis, anyone knows?

 

thanks

 

Hi,

Most joysticks interfaces uses 100k Ohm pots. thats almost a standard. in fact it is for the old gameport devices.

 

There are two main ways vendors connects their pots to the interface.

1. all three leads are connected - more stable and precise. in some systems - allows auto calibration.

2.only two leads are used - "noisy" output. simple connection. allows to chain connections.

 

for the upper case you may use a wide range of pots. I assume any value of 10K - 100K Ohm will do the trick.

pay attention that you must connect the signal wire to the "wiper" leg of the pot(a mistake might result in damage). and negative and positive to the other legs (switching polarities swithces the direction of the AXIS)

 

for the lower case youll need to know the value of the pots you need. (simply measure the pots of the original circuit)

Same here I advice you to use the wiper (mostly the middle) leg for the signal (AD/C) but you dont have to.

 

Make sure you get LINEAR pots and not LOGARITHMIC.

 

I hope it wasn't too informative...:smartass:

and I wish you success.

 

Nir

Nir Bar

"Schredder"

 

"In the warrior code there's no surrender,

though his body says stop,his spirit cries...

NEVER !!!"

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wow, thanks! and no, not at all, information is never too much

 

I'll get a linear 100k pt and see how it goes.

 

but since you seem to understand about this subject, let me ask you one last thing

 

I used a dual pot to hook up a 5v supply to my leds, and control its brightness, and in the second pole I connected the pot to the axis input in my usb board. however, that way, my leds are always on, so I bought a pot with a switch. unfortunately I didn't find a dual pot with a switch, so I was wondering if hooking both 5v and axis input to the same pole on the pot will damage it?

 

cheers

Rafael

 

Ryzen 7 1800x @ 4ghz | MSI GTX 980ti | 32gb DDR4 Ballistix 2400Mhz | Asus ROG Crosshair VII Hero (wi-fi) | 480Gb Kingston NVMe ssd | Western Digital 1TB x2 | EVGA 850w PSU | Noctua NH-D14 | NZXT S240 | Windows 10 Pro 64bit | 4k 50" Philips android TV | Dell P2418D | Oculus Rift S | Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas

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wow, thanks! and no, not at all, information is never too much

 

I'll get a linear 100k pt and see how it goes.

 

but since you seem to understand about this subject, let me ask you one last thing

 

I used a dual pot to hook up a 5v supply to my leds, and control its brightness, and in the second pole I connected the pot to the axis input in my usb board. however, that way, my leds are always on, so I bought a pot with a switch. unfortunately I didn't find a dual pot with a switch, so I was wondering if hooking both 5v and axis input to the same pole on the pot will damage it?

 

cheers

 

Let me see if I get you straight,

You are trying to dimm the leds while using the axis. (I guess its a throttle...)

 

A nice though. yet, I think you need some adjustment circuit to come between the pot (a 100k "stereo pot" - its basically two pots with one common pin) make sure you get the right sepreration between the circuits as the A/Dc level of the stick circuit will not tolarate high currents. and by high I mean more than a few milliamps.

 

Regarding the leds operation. I advise you to use a circuit that consists of transistor and some passive components to get the job done. a current limiter will also function well and if probably desinged will allow a longer leds life.

Using only the pot will probably provide poor scale of lighting. (youll have some serious "deal zone")

 

I wish I had some extra time to sketch something, Yet I'm pretty sure youll find some circuits online.

 

I'll also look for something when I'll have the time.

 

Have success !

 

Nir

 

edit:

Here's a simple circuit that may get it done:

 

http://www.instructables.com/id/Power-LED-s---simplest-light-with-constant-current/#step1


Edited by Schredder
Found a circuit

Nir Bar

"Schredder"

 

"In the warrior code there's no surrender,

though his body says stop,his spirit cries...

NEVER !!!"

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Nir, that's awesome, thanks!

 

but that's what I was afraid of, that I was going to need a dual pot. problem is that I just can't find a linear 100k dual pot with switch... lol

 

about the led operations, I will try that if I ever find that pot

 

cheers!

Rafael

 

Ryzen 7 1800x @ 4ghz | MSI GTX 980ti | 32gb DDR4 Ballistix 2400Mhz | Asus ROG Crosshair VII Hero (wi-fi) | 480Gb Kingston NVMe ssd | Western Digital 1TB x2 | EVGA 850w PSU | Noctua NH-D14 | NZXT S240 | Windows 10 Pro 64bit | 4k 50" Philips android TV | Dell P2418D | Oculus Rift S | Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas

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anyone has an idea where i can find that? dual pot with switch, linear 100k? going crazy here... lol

Rafael

 

Ryzen 7 1800x @ 4ghz | MSI GTX 980ti | 32gb DDR4 Ballistix 2400Mhz | Asus ROG Crosshair VII Hero (wi-fi) | 480Gb Kingston NVMe ssd | Western Digital 1TB x2 | EVGA 850w PSU | Noctua NH-D14 | NZXT S240 | Windows 10 Pro 64bit | 4k 50" Philips android TV | Dell P2418D | Oculus Rift S | Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas

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You can't use a potentiometer to dim LED directly because the luminosity is not linear in relation with the current through the LED. The only way do dim correctly some LED is to use PWM.

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