X52 Pro ministick replacement?

[digitaljjd]

Has anyone that ever disassembled an X52 throttle remember how many contacts come from the ministick before I crack it open? I'm hoping it's 4. I may have found an easy replacement in the form of a Sony PSP thumb stick.

[digitaljjd]

I did the unthinkable and disassembled my X52 Pro throttle. I also fixed my mouse stick! The X52 is very complex and not for those without patience. I was reaching the limit of mine. The mouse stick is actually just a 4-way D-pad pressing device. What I think happens over time is the rubber starts to slip in a rotation axis up over the buttons making it drift as it begins to press down on the buttons. I noticed this when I reseated mine just the slightest bit. The prongs of the stick also had burrs on the ends so I filed those off, then I took a sec to snap a pic as proof. Word to the wise, just live without it and disable it in the device manager if yours is drifting too. I popped one of the many wires and had to do a quick solder job, but no biggie.

 

 

 

Edited May 21, 2011 by digitaljjd

[BTTW-DratsaB]

Nice job, I had no idea the way the mouse stick worked was a simple as a D pad :). I wonder if it is the same in the non Pro x52, I guess it probably is.

[shu77]

Thanks for the pics of this. Its not something I would have ever tried without knowing what I was going to find in there

[digitaljjd]

Here is some inside info. The wire bundles are hot glued in places, and in order to get to that last screw in the back and bottom of the throttle handle to open it up...which is the only place I wanted to get to,(without dismounting the handle from the axle) I had to open it from bottom of the base by carefully remove two rubber pads to reveal 2 hidden screws in the corners,(total of 8 ) unseat the throttle,(pulling out axle yokes (2 more screws), tension knob (watch for rubber pad it will fall off), white lithium grease will get everywhere and I pulled out thee connectors on main PCB) so I could get the MFD out, but to do that you have to pull out the rotary PCB below the MFD which also seats and holds the two buttons, knobs and their 2 axle hubs in, so 2 knobs, 2 buttons, (reset goes on bottom) and 2 clear angled, orientation specific(take note of which end the rotary knob inserts into also, as they can be reversed incorrectly) plastic pieces fall out(axle hubs). Then you can pull the ribbon connector to the MFD out from the main PCB, and that comes apart in several pieces. The rear screen, LCD, and glass will separate. All that to have access to the the rear screw through the MFD hole, and it's still hard to get it out. If there is a next time I'll just pull it all apart completely. (some of the other PCB's are hot glued in place, easily removable, but I didn't want to have to break out the hot glue gun at the time) It would be easier then letting stuff hang off by wires. I didn't want to have to separate the throttle shaft from the axle, it just looked like a pain in the ass, but considering what I already had went through, it probably wouldn't have hurt anymore anyway. Also take note there are several different types of screws, so I would recommend when pulling apart to label duct tape and stick the screws on it in groups and fold over slightly, it'll be an extra step, but you will thank yourself come time for assembly. I couple notes, the axle hub screws for the throttle can't be too tight or it won't move freely, the same thing goes for the MFD rotaries, the 6 screws have to be loose enough to allow the click function, but tight enough to keep the 2 buttons high enough. Last bit of advice to those brave and stupid enough like me to go inside. The wires are very very very thin. Like super small gauge. If too much pressure is applied they will break from their solder points. I pulled the ground from the power on LED, or perhaps it was just barley on to begin with. Lastly, start on this in the morning, when you have plenty of time and excellent lighting. Do it at a table so you can sit, take pictures and label stuff. If you start to get aggravated, or when you start thinking why the hell did I do this? Take a break. You have the pictures to fall back on. It's better to take your time. One other thing I forgot to mention, the slider is attached to the mouse PCB, so you have to remove 2 screws to separate that from the mouse PCB, then 3 screws to remove the shroud holding the stick in place to get to the D-pad, and while doing that the smaller rotary wants to dislodge, it has cogs and gears that I didn't want to face really looking at at that point. Final bit of advice, make sure to seat the slider back into the slider knob before you close up and take note of where the wire bundles are so they are clear from slider operation. If I can think of anything else I'll make notes. I may need to refer to this myself later down the road. Also feel free to hit my rep up a point or two, if you found this info useful...I just noticed I got my first negative point last week from Wags of all people, claiming I had a lame post. :) I guess he was right, but now I still feel like I got in trouble and lost a gold star, and have to go sit in the corner or something. Too funny. Thanks Wags. Yes, that post was lame, but I hope this one can be considered anti-lame and they will cancel each other out.

Edited May 21, 2011 by digitaljjd

[digitaljjd]

Just another quick note you'll need a small watchmaker sized screwdriver set, and possibly a solder iron and maybe a glue gun. I also was wise enough to leave the unreachable screw at the bottom base of the throttle handle out. 5 are plenty, and the next time I have to get into the mouse again,( I have a feeling the rubber pad will creep over again) I can just take out the five screws which are reachable with the smaller watch sized phillips, (#1 I think) without having to mess with taking the entire base apart again. Also for those who have not taken the throttle detent out, (very simple) don't forget to while it's open. I removed mine like 3 years ago?... and that is why I didn't mention it for those who are wondering, it's just a spring and a small plastic piece that you remove. Also, you might want to consider that your mouse has a different problem from mine, and what I did might not fix yours, which is very possible, however I think there is a good chance they all suffer from the same problem. The rubber pads are not held in place very well and will move/stretch out of place IMHO. Good luck.

[Dudikoff]

I have a problem with the ministick getting some inputs at random or just gets locked into pulling in one direction. This lock is usually solved by replugging the whole thing. But, disassembling this thing sounds like more trouble than it's worth if it will come back again. Did you consider gluing that rubber thing?

[digitaljjd]

I have a problem with the ministick getting some inputs at random or just gets locked into pulling in one direction. This lock is usually solved by replugging the whole thing. But, disassembling this thing sounds like more trouble than it's worth if it will come back again. Did you consider gluing that rubber thing?

 

I think unplugging it only recalibrates it, or is that only on a reboot? I used to be able to do that, but I'm afraid I was past that point, it had to be disabled all of the time. As for glue it might be possible but I doubt it, you'd have to put glue directly over the pathways, which is probably not a good idea. It has four nipples? that go through the mouse PCB (you can see two in the pic) that are supposed to keep it in place. My guess is it'll last a year or so before it moves again. It all depends on how much pressure you put on it. Now that the bastard rear screw is out, opening the top section alone is no problem now. I guess if you cut a short phillips or had a flex shaft screwdriver to fit the low clearence in the rear of the throttle handle, it would be really easy to check yours and/or correct it.

 

Edited May 22, 2011 by digitaljjd

[Dudikoff]

Oh, so if I have a very short screwdriver, I can just remove the 6 philips screws on the bottom of the throttle handle and open the handle, right? Then there's no need to open the whole thing which sounds much more acceptable. I might just do that, but the problem isn't critical yet as I found some temp solution. My problem was that when I move the ministick in one of the directions (to the right usually), the indicator in the SST would start going round through all directions (and in reality it might get stuck and pull to the right or down which can be solved with unplugging the stick and replugging - which is either solved by recalibration or by resetting some software lock which results from ministick behaving like pressing all directions at all times). But, I've divided the both axis into 5 bands now and programmed the keyboard input to happen in the 2. and 4. band only so now when this lock happens, it stops itself after a second.

 

BTW, my LCD light is somewhat unstable as it flickers a bit sometimes (which might point to a bad soldering that you experienced), but I don't really use it anyway so I can just turn the thing off.

 

I'm still on the fence on getting TM WH or X65F, though. I can get the X65 for about 2/3rds of the WH price and FS sounds like smth I'd like to try (as I used to consider getting it for my unused Cougar), although it seems to need much more effort to maintain straight flight without trimming the thing. So, WH stick seems to be more universal, but the same might go for the X65 throttle though. I'm just worried if the X65 comes with the same design/quality control issues like this mini stick and the LCD problem?

[digitaljjd]

I'm just worried if the X65 comes with the same design/quality control issues like this mini stick and the LCD problem?

Me too. I'll keep my Saitek Pro Rudder and 52 Pro until they die, but I think I'm going to go with CH products next time around. Hotas Warthog would be nice, but I have better things to put $400 toward.

[Dudikoff]

Me too. I'll keep my Saitek Pro Rudder and 52 Pro until they die, but I think I'm going to go with CH products next time around. Hotas Warthog would be nice, but I have better things to put $400 toward.

 

CH is out of consideration for me unless they put out some more modern stick because (strictly IMHO) I find their HOTAS looks appalling (like a cheap "chinese" knockoff of the F-16 controls).

[digitaljjd]

LOL! Very true, but they work very well, have a good rep for service, you can get parts if you need to, and CH has excellent programming software from what I here. It's like the A-10, everybody says it's ugly, but I've always thought it was a very beautiful design, I've never seen the supposed "ugly" in it. CH may be a bit blan, but it's designed to be purely functional...that, and I don't want to have a closet full of HOTAS's that don't work for this or that reason.

 

edit: Just read that HOTAS Warthog has a really crappy ministick. Why the hell is it so hard to get a solid ministick? I'd rather just have a 4-way hat that works.

Edited May 23, 2011 by digitaljjd

[Dudikoff]

edit: Just read that HOTAS Warthog has a really crappy ministick. Why the hell is it so hard to get a solid ministick? I'd rather just have a 4-way hat that works.

 

Can you point me to what's crappy about it exactly as I'm still on the fence about it? I mean, I've read that it's a bit too sensitive, but you can fix that in the A-10 UFC (not sure about other sims, though). Also, the position seems terrible (at least compared to me having been used to using my thumb on the Saitek designs) - on the front left side of the throttle (or back, depends how you look at it). I can imagine it being rather awkward for precise movement.

 

BTW, I'm thinking about bending a screwdriver so I can check this damn ministick. I just did the magnet mod today and that was a piece of cake (at least until the BlueTack/Patafix keeps holding).

[digitaljjd]

Sure, I saw it here: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=74071

 

From what I've heard the slew switch on the TM Warthog is, to put it lightly, a completely inept pathetic pile of useless shit. A friend of mine has one and he says that it's hard if not impossible to slew smoothly and that it constantly seems to 'lose it', like it'll just stop slewing altogether in some directions...

 

That is correct. Its the worst microstick I've ever used.

[Dudikoff]

Sure, I saw it here: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=74071

 

It seems that it can be tuned in the Axis menu for other sims so maybe it's not THAT useless (at least if it works as expected and not like on the Saitek X52Pro where it works like shit). Also, the rotaries are often erratic, but sometimes even exibit some latency in the control window - you move it and you see an obvious delay in its response and what's worse, if you move it to the center, the response would stop moving, meaning it will not move to 50% but will stop where ever it was?? Maybe I should update the drivers, but this seems like cheap components rather than a software problem.

[Dudikoff]

BTW, how the hell did you unscrew the mid screw? Not only is it so deep that none of my philips screwdrivers can reach it (all too wide), it seems to be so tight that all my regular screwdrivers are taking it apart rather then unscrewing it.

[digitaljjd]

Just another quick note you'll need a small watchmaker sized screwdriver set, and possibly a solder iron and maybe a glue gun.... I can just take out the five screws which are reachable with the smaller watch sized phillips, (#1 I think)

 

I used a Stanley (66-052) 6-Piece Precision Screwdriver Set.

 

Edited May 24, 2011 by digitaljjd

[Dudikoff]

Oh, yeah, but you took the whole thing apart. I'm trying to dismantle the handle without taking apart the base itself..

[ilikepie]

IIRC there are 4 screws that hold the top of the throttle handle in place that can only be reached once the base has been removed. i think it holds the handle to the base as well as the top to the bottom.

 

it was a few years ago that i cracked my 52 throttle open so i cant be more specific

[digitaljjd]

Oh, yeah, but you took the whole thing apart. I'm trying to dismantle the handle without taking apart the base itself..

 

You'll probably have to cut one to be short, or find a flex shaft screwdriver small enough to fit. I'd buy a set like above, maybe two (pretty cheap) and cut one set's handles in half, or to their desired length. Then it's up to how much finger strength you have. Also be sure to make them short enough to allow room for the screws to back out. Last tip, one of my six screws liked to hang in the hole, there is nothing holding the top of the throttle together except the screws. It you think you have them all out and are unable to get it open, then you still have a screw hung. It will open very easy once they are all out.

[Dudikoff]

You'll probably have to cut one to be short, or find a flex shaft screwdriver small enough to fit. I'd buy a set like above, maybe two (pretty cheap) and cut one set's handles in half, or to their desired length. Then it's up to how much finger strength you have. Also be sure to make them short enough to allow room for the screws to back out. Last tip, one of my six screws liked to hang in the hole, there is nothing holding the top of the throttle together except the screws. It you think you have them all out and are unable to get it open, then you still have a screw hung. It will open very easy once they are all out.

 

OK, thanks for the tips. I got 5 of them out and it's still not opening at all as the center one is 'dug in like the Alabama tick'. I thought of cutting a screwdriver short (or bend it perhaps), but I don't have any suitable philips ones and the small regular ones are falling apart rather then unscrewing. It's like it's glued. Will go to the store and search for a suitable one (or a cheap one to cut down).

 

BTW, just plugged in the old X36 to see if it still works and it is. The ministick is of a different design it seems, but I didn't test it a lot because I don't have suitable software for it. I'd have to check if Dhauzimmer's drivers work in the Windows 7 x64. Those 5.x RC2 xHotas drivers from sourceforge don't want to install, but since they asked me about the PS/2 keyboard, I guess they're for the gameport version anyway. I noticed that the 6.0.0 lite version is referenced there but it's not available. Anybody got that version (perhaps it was payware)?.