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Few little quirks


leroy1964

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Hi guys, well it has been a day or two of flying and have found a few 'problems' maybe. Is anyone able to shed any light of these couple of noticable quirks.

 

1) Comms don't work?

2)Nose wheel steering doesn't work or the key the tutourial mentions does something else (in my case brings up a closer view of the cockpit)? says to use "insert" under 50knots and rudders above that speed. I only ask as i have twice now been unable to steer below 50 knots, wound up on the grass and can't go anywhere.:cry:

3) The pitch ladders/thingys, even though someone explained they don't stay central, it is bloody annoying as they catch your eye with regards "am I straight and level"

4)Major one this one...the game doesn't keep the "game" setting once you have set all the parameters/options?:huh:

5)Lastly, game not updating pilots log, as in I have flown many hours yet only showns 2 minutes?????

 

Also if someone can shed some light on how to calibrate the joystick in game as I have watched a few videos of people playing this sim and there A/C doesn't bounce around all over the place at a single touch. I think this is why the pitch ladders at least don't sit centre at any point. I know forum members have helped with an understanding of the pitch ladders thingy, but my gut feeling tells me it could be a trim problem, like I used to have in DCS Blackshark. Appreciate any help, I would hate to stop playing this because of the same reasons as DCS BS. On a funny note, never laughed so hard at the video some guy made about being to dumb to fly this sim, well to give you some idea, if he is dumb well I am worse when uit comes to this sim. Why don't they include some sort of joystick auto recognise and setup (for most joysticks anyways). I also believe the switch I have on my joystick (used for scrolling around in most flight sims) can be used as switches??? HOTAS something, am I right???

 

Lastly (again LOL) should I give the "game" setting away and try to play this sim on "realistic"?

 

Cheers all

 

p.s. I know there is alot of questions and I will play the tuts, read the 700 page manual but sometimes help is needed, welcome to my steep learning curve. Should I buy a better joystick? I do have a quite expensive one as it is, but from what I am reading there is a joystick that works well with A10C, aparently similar to the real thing?

 

Again cheers :thumbup:

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1) They work. However, note that if you are using standard ("real") communcations, you must set the right frequencies AND activate the correct radio. If I have 150 for the Tanker on my VHF FM, I must hit the switch for the VHF FM. Hitting VHF AM won't help me there. Note that the training missions use real comms.

 

2) It's a latched key. Press it once and you should see the NWS light on the front panel light up green. You can verify it's binding through checking HOTAS commands in the options screens.

 

Have you mapped for Game mode but not Sim mode? A mission that forces Sim presets will then not have your mappings.

 

3) You need to think about them through considering that they show how you are flying through the air - not the ground. You're not flying to the ground after all. Just like the TVV, their drift due to wind helps you correlate your actual flight track to the ground quickly and easily without mental arithmetic. (Doing that calculation manually is, btw, tonnes of fun. :P )

 

4) Can you clarify what you mean? The "Game" setting is a preset made up of those sub-options, just like "Simulation". Those buttons are presets for the tickboxes (the radio assist etcetera boxes), not a separate entity.

 

5) Sounds like an access rights issue? Not sure though.

 

Regarding joystick calibration, there's a guide in the FAQ. For smaller adjustments I find that the easiest thing is to just select the axis tune and set a curvature of 10-15. Depending on stick you might also want to set a few degrees of deadzone.

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Why don't they include some sort of joystick auto recognise and setup (for most joysticks anyways). I also believe the switch I have on my joystick (used for scrolling around in most flight sims) can be used as switches??? HOTAS something, am I right???

 

Sounds like a hatswitch. Maps like a button for each direction.

Regarding automapping, the reason is that there's about 5 billion different joysticks out there and mapping all of them is quite simply impossible without breaking the bank. And it would be useless anyhow, since 99% of users would change those mappings to their own preferences anyhow. The exception is HOTAS Warthog which is easy to map automatically into a configuration most will like since, well, it's a replica. :P

 

Lastly (again LOL) should I give the "game" setting away and try to play this sim on "realistic"?

 

Yes. My personal opinion is that flying with tonnes of those assists and simplifications on is like purchasing a Koenigsegg CCX - and then only use it's 800 horsepowers to shop for groceries...

EDIT: There's also a point to be made that if you do have aspirations to fly in full realism at any point you might as well start right away, since the simplifications can cause what's called "negative learning" - that is, you learn bad habits or procedures that don't apply or apply opposite when flying "real", so when you eventually do the switch you'd not only have to learn something new; you'd have to start by un-learning things. When I switched from just flying sims (with twist-stick) to flying real aircraft I had huge issues with gripping the stick too hard - I was used to having such a grip to be able to operate the Z-axis, and it caused way spastic controls in a real plane with greater rudder authority than the sim planes.

 

Should I buy a better joystick? I do have a quite expensive one as it is, but from what I am reading there is a joystick that works well with A10C, aparently similar to the real thing?

 

Impossible to say without knowing what it is you have. ;)

 

As for the "similar" one, yes, it's the TM HOTAS Warthog. It's essentially a replica of the real A-10C stdick and throttle quadrant (plus LASTE panel).

http://www.thrustmaster.com/product.aspx?ProductID=221&PlatformID=5


Edited by EtherealN

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As usual you are helpful

 

Many thanks for taking the time to answer all questions, I will see about getting that joystick you suggested. I can see your a Mod so i guess you see alot of these simialr type questions, so thanks again for not being ro harsh and for trying to help.:thumbup:

 

 

Sounds like a hatswitch. Maps like a button for each direction.

Regarding automapping, the reason is that there's about 5 billion different joysticks out there and mapping all of them is quite simply impossible without breaking the bank. And it would be useless anyhow, since 99% of users would change those mappings to their own preferences anyhow. The exception is HOTAS Warthog which is easy to map automatically into a configuration most will like since, well, it's a replica. :P

 

 

 

Yes. My personal opinion is that flying with tonnes of those assists and simplifications on is like purchasing a Koenigsegg CCX - and then only use it's 800 horsepowers to shop for groceries...

EDIT: There's also a point to be made that if you do have aspirations to fly in full realism at any point you might as well start right away, since the simplifications can cause what's called "negative learning" - that is, you learn bad habits or procedures that don't apply or apply opposite when flying "real", so when you eventually do the switch you'd not only have to learn something new; you'd have to start by un-learning things. When I switched from just flying sims (with twist-stick) to flying real aircraft I had huge issues with gripping the stick too hard - I was used to having such a grip to be able to operate the Z-axis, and it caused way spastic controls in a real plane with greater rudder authority than the sim planes.

 

 

 

Impossible to say without knowing what it is you have. ;)

 

As for the "similar" one, yes, it's the TM HOTAS Warthog. It's essentially a replica of the real A-10C stdick and throttle quadrant (plus LASTE panel).

http://www.thrustmaster.com/product.aspx?ProductID=221&PlatformID=5

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4 and 5

 

4) in options you can set either as "game" or "simulation" and you can also tick "use these settings all the time (or something like that). As you may have guessed I am trying to play in "Game settings but it doesn't keep them. I think you may have already answered by saying the tuts use "sim" settings.

 

5) not sure what you mean by access issues, I bought the game online and key has been activated and accepted, is that what you mean by access issues? I might try deleting and making a new pilot, see if that fixes it.

 

Re-nose steering issue, I will just "tap" the insert key and see what happens, as i said it changes the view, maybe the key needs to be checked in settings?

 

Again thanks:thumbup:

 

 

 

 

1) They work. However, note that if you are using standard ("real") communcations, you must set the right frequencies AND activate the correct radio. If I have 150 for the Tanker on my VHF FM, I must hit the switch for the VHF FM. Hitting VHF AM won't help me there. Note that the training missions use real comms.

 

2) It's a latched key. Press it once and you should see the NWS light on the front panel light up green. You can verify it's binding through checking HOTAS commands in the options screens.

 

Have you mapped for Game mode but not Sim mode? A mission that forces Sim presets will then not have your mappings.

 

3) You need to think about them through considering that they show how you are flying through the air - not the ground. You're not flying to the ground after all. Just like the TVV, their drift due to wind helps you correlate your actual flight track to the ground quickly and easily without mental arithmetic. (Doing that calculation manually is, btw, tonnes of fun. :P )

 

4) Can you clarify what you mean? The "Game" setting is a preset made up of those sub-options, just like "Simulation". Those buttons are presets for the tickboxes (the radio assist etcetera boxes), not a separate entity.

 

5) Sounds like an access rights issue? Not sure though.

 

Regarding joystick calibration, there's a guide in the FAQ. For smaller adjustments I find that the easiest thing is to just select the axis tune and set a curvature of 10-15. Depending on stick you might also want to set a few degrees of deadzone.

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No worries mate. It's what I'm here for. :)

 

Which stick is it you have? I could look at it and see if I can explain the differences you'd experience through switching to a different stick - might make it easier for you to judge if it's worth the expense. The HOTAS Warthog stick is definitely not cheap, and while it is an absolutely awesome piece of kit in my opinion it's pricetag might make it "not worth it" for some or possibly even many users.

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4) in options you can set either as "game" or "simulation" and you can also tick "use these settings all the time (or something like that). As you may have guessed I am trying to play in "Game settings but it doesn't keep them. I think you may have already answered by saying the tuts use "sim" settings.

 

Well, a couple notes there:

 

First off, using the "Game" mode button will not do anything on it's own - rather it changes the tickboxes to a "default". However, there's another quirk to it - missions can "force" specific settings, and for multiplayer the server will force the settings. So in those cases, even if you have selected Game or just a particular set of tickboxes, you'll end up using what the mission or server forced.

 

The training missions require a certain set of settings to work, so they force "full" radio, for example. Easy radio wouldn't work without making a completely separate training mission for them.

 

5) not sure what you mean by access issues, I bought the game online and key has been activated and accepted, is that what you mean by access issues? I might try deleting and making a new pilot, see if that fixes it.

 

No, I meant access to the logbook file on the computer. Depending on your OS and how it is configured the operating system might be denying the simulator the right to edit that file, and if this is the case it won't be able to log things.

 

It's also possible that it's a bug. :)

 

Re-nose steering issue, I will just "tap" the insert key and see what happens, as i said it changes the view, maybe the key needs to be checked in settings?

 

I'll dive into the settings page and see if I can figure out what's happening to you here, I'll let you know shortly. I haven't personally used Game mode much at all so I'm a bit unsure about what might happen in this regard.

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Ahah!

 

By insert, are you pressing the Numpad 0 key? It also has an Ins marking and acts as Insert if Numlock is off, but if Numlock is on it'll be Num0, which is view control.

 

You are looking for the dedicated Insert key, just right of backspace. (Below PrintScreen/SysRQ, above Delete, left of Home, un the "sixpack" above the arrow keys.)

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Numpad 0

 

Yep, your correct, thats the little sucker the tut tells you to press in the take off tut, unless I have the wrong key LOL:pilotfly:

 

Ah, my computer by default always has num lock "on" I might try to assign a different key for engaging/disengaging nose steering as at the moment I cant steer A/C.

 

Ahah!

 

By insert, are you pressing the Numpad 0 key? It also has an Ins marking and acts as Insert if Numlock is off, but if Numlock is on it'll be Num0, which is view control.

 

You are looking for the dedicated Insert key, just right of backspace. (Below PrintScreen/SysRQ, above Delete, left of Home, un the "sixpack" above the arrow keys.)

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Ah. TM HOTAS Warthog will be very very different to that.

 

First of all you have a separate throttle quadrant instead of that tiny little throttle lever, and it's split throttle meaning you can control each engine separately. Another difference is that the trigger for the gun on the TM HOTAS is "two-stage": you press it down a little and it's in Stage 1, which activates the GUN/PAC stage 1 which is essentialyl a stabilization mode: the plane locks it's aim on the ground, making aiming easier for a gun-run. Press it further and you enter stage 2 where it actually fires.

 

Aside from this there is of course the obvious difference that the TM HOTAS warthog has a LOT more buttons and switches, so you won't have to bother with keyboards for things that "should" be on the stick or throttle. (In all it's 6 of the "hats", one axial "microstick" slew control, and a few 2-way switches as well.)

 

The drawback is that it'll cost somewhere around 10 times as much as what you currently have. :P

 

A possible middleway that is cheaper would be a Saitek x52. It doesn't have the split throttle so you can't individually control the engines, nor does it have the idle-off detent for turning on or turning off the engines that the Warthog HOTAS has. And it's a lot more plasticky and has fewer hats and buttons. But it costs a lot less than the TM Warthog HOTAS. I used an x52 before switching to the Hog. The x52 are in two versions, one normal and one "pro". The Pro has basically the same functions but is built with sturdier material, but costs a bit more.

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Yep, your correct, thats the little sucker the tut tells you to press in the take off tut, unless I have the wrong key LOL:pilotfly:

 

Ah, my computer by default always has num lock "on" I might try to assign a different key for engaging/disengaging nose steering as at the moment I cant steer A/C.

 

Nono, unless you have a keyboard from outer space you should have two insert keys. One is the actual insert key, marked below, the other on the numpad is an "alternate function". That key is Numpad0, NOT Ins, but it can be made to function like Ins through disabling numlock. The one you are asked to use is the one marked by the arrow below, not the one on the numpad.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=53525&stc=1&d=1310253329

keyboard.gif.46f72d7214d265cf587c85147125b818.gif

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No luck in Australia

 

Mate, just thought you would like to know, did a search of that joystick (looks awesome btw) and no one sells it here in Oz:cry:

 

oh well, back to the Logitech :joystick:

 

Again many thanks for taking the time on all my questions, now i have to put some serious time into mastering this game on "real". i will keep you updated.:thumbup:

 

 

No worries mate. It's what I'm here for. :)

 

Which stick is it you have? I could look at it and see if I can explain the differences you'd experience through switching to a different stick - might make it easier for you to judge if it's worth the expense. The HOTAS Warthog stick is definitely not cheap, and while it is an absolutely awesome piece of kit in my opinion it's pricetag might make it "not worth it" for some or possibly even many users.

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You won't believe this mate

 

My Logitech Keyboard doesn't have an insert key like yours (sorry) it just has a extra large "delete" key where your showing in red. Only insert key I have is the numpad 0, feel bad mate after all your effort. Seems Logitech keyboards are slightly different (maybe thats why i am having this issue). It is called an "Logitech internet pro keyboard" oh well I will chase up a more standard keyboard. What a morning eh? LOL:lol:

 

Nono, unless you have a keyboard from outer space you should have two insert keys. One is the actual insert key, marked below, the other on the numpad is an "alternate function". That key is Numpad0, NOT Ins, but it can be made to function like Ins through disabling numlock. The one you are asked to use is the one marked by the arrow below, not the one on the numpad.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=53525&stc=1&d=1310253329

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Oh god... Not logitech too... >.<

 

I so hate keyboard manufacturers that decide to just throw out all standards. It's bad enough with Apple, but at least they can claim that since they make the OS and computer too then it'll still be fit for it's purpose.

 

You should be able to re-map it to something else anyhow. I'd actually recommend one of the buttons on your stick, since you use the same button to control the laser when deploying laser-guided munitions or marking targets for other assets, as well as in aerial refueling. So just map it to a stick button and go from there. :)

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Good news mate

 

I found an old keyboard in the garden shed and am using it, it is the same as your image so all good. As I said I will hit the manual and tuts and bother you know more as you have covered a vast aray of topics with me. As the British would "Tally Ho, Bandits six oclock":pilotfly:

 

Oh god... Not logitech too... >.<

 

I so hate keyboard manufacturers that decide to just throw out all standards. It's bad enough with Apple, but at least they can claim that since they make the OS and computer too then it'll still be fit for it's purpose.

 

You should be able to re-map it to something else anyhow. I'd actually recommend one of the buttons on your stick, since you use the same button to control the laser when deploying laser-guided munitions or marking targets for other assets, as well as in aerial refueling. So just map it to a stick button and go from there. :)

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No worries about bothering me, ask away if you get questions. Different people need different methods to learn - some learn best with a manual, others through doing and experimenting, and others through asking question. Like my flight instructor said: "it's better to ask a question and seem stupid than keep silent and be stupid". :P (Though in our case it was more like "it's better to ask a question and seem stupid than keep silent and die in a crash". :D )

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Mate, just thought you would like to know, did a search of that joystick (looks awesome btw) and no one sells it here in Oz:cry:

 

oh well, back to the Logitech :joystick:

 

Again many thanks for taking the time on all my questions, now i have to put some serious time into mastering this game on "real". i will keep you updated.:thumbup:

 

Funny enough I was just posting this on the Black Shark Forum....http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=1244198#post1244198

 

I have a Logitech Stick too and it actually quite good for DCS.

 

You can have as many modifiers (Think extra Shift Buttons) as you like, you can even combine them for even more functions. This is done in DCS itself - Don't use the Logitech profiler.

 

I have the bottom 6 buttons on the base of the stick (No.s 7 to 12) as Modifiers in DCS on mine.

 

This is my setup for Warthog (I haven finished one for Black shark yet).

 

Button 1 = Cannon

Button 2 = Weapon Release

Button 3 = Nvgs

Button 5 = NWS

Button 4 or 6 = China Hat

 

Edit:- to make it clearer, Buttons 7-12 are on the base of the Joystick, 1-6 are on the stick.

 

Hat = Slew

Button 7 + Hat = Trim

Button 8 + Hat = Coolie Hat

Button 9 + Hat = DMS

Button 10 + Hat = TMS

Button 12 + Hat = CMS

Button 7 + Button 2 = Master Mode cycle

Button 7 + Button 3 or 4 = Zoom

Button 7 + Button 5 or 6 = Speed Brakes

Button 8 + Button 4 = Autopilot

Button 8 + Button 3 or 5 = Boat Switch

Button 9 + Button 3, 5 or 6 = Pinkie switch

Button 10 + Button 3, 5 or 6 = Mic Switch

Button 12 + Button 2 = CMS Z-axis

 

This is from memory so I may have left one or two things out.

 

Nate

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Excellent, thanks Nate

 

Thanks mate, as I have both games installed I will check out what you have suggested. Thumbs up :thumbup:

 

 

Funny enough I was just posting this on the Black Shark Forum....http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=1244198#post1244198

 

I have a Logitech Stick too and it actually quite good for DCS.

 

You can have as many modifiers (Think extra Shift Buttons) as you like, you can even combine them for even more functions. This is done in DCS itself - Don't use the Logitech profiler.

 

I have the bottom 6 buttons on the base of the stick (No.s 7 to 12) as Modifiers in DCS on mine.

 

This is my setup for Warthog (I haven finished one for Black shark yet).

 

 

 

Nate

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See this is why I can spend hours reading these forums,they are chock full of brilliant ideas for newcomers as they answer all our questions and more,the level of info you find out,not just about this game is second to none,as somebody posted already"your thinking of something and are going to post then while reading the forums somebody beats you to it"As a newcomer to this great game and these forums each day brings new wonders so hats off to all you guys who help us less qualified :thumbup:

 

PS:Cheers for that list of the modifiers on your joystick Nate as I have the same this looks really interesting,take it you have Track IR though as I use the hat switch for looking around would there be any way you could still do this? :joystick:

 

 

Great work guys cheers.:)

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PS:Cheers for that list of the modifiers on your joystick Nate as I have the same this looks really interesting,take it you have Track IR though as I use the hat switch for looking around would there be any way you could still do this? :joystick:

 

 

Great work guys cheers.:)

 

Yeah just leave it on the Hat or add another button as a modifier+Hat to look around. However seriously consider TrackIR (Or freetrack / FacetrackNoIR)

 

Nate

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Thanks.

 

Cheers guys,got the buttons mapped out with the modifiers,would have never thought of this tbh so thanks for the idea.I am mucking around with freetrack and noir and hope to get it working asap,had limited success but got the bug now to see it through.

Just got to get used to this button layout now,thanks for the inspiration guys.:joystick: :thumbup:

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AMD PHENOM II X 4 955be @3.2 GHZ | ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO mb | Corsair XMS3-8GB Dual Channel DDR3 Memory | Nvidea GTX 580 GDDR5 GPU | CNPS9900 NT cooler | Corsair HX850W psu | Seagate Barracuda 500GB HD 300 MBps - 7200 rpm | WIN 7 64bit | 32" HD LCD TV | 5.1 surround sound | wireless keyboard and mouse | Saitek x45 hotas.

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