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MTFDarkEagle's "pit"


MTFDarkEagle

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  • 6 months later...
  • 8 months later...

Time to drag this one back from the depths of the HomeCockpits dungeon...

Winter season is inbound, and being inspired by the FlightSimWeekend at the Aviodrome in Lelystad, I'm going for some overhauling of my cockpit. During a left-over half hour at work yesterday I made a partial list of all the things I could think of for the cockpit.

 

- Up Front Controller (UFC)

o Acrylate glue

o Paint for knobs

o Acquire datasheet switch

o LED Power Supply

- Chair

o General seat maintenance

o Design/build Ejection Seat

o Implement linear guidance

- General maintenance

o Implement steppermotor

§ Purpose yet unknown

§ Develop/implement stepperdriver

o Upgrade AHCP switches

o Develop new method screenholder

o Develop new method MFD holder

o Maintenance on caution panel

o Extra output connector caution panel

o Implement battery panel

- L/G Panel

o Fix L/G Lever

o Connect L/G indicator LED’s

o Rewire L/G Lever on BU0836 board

- TM Warthog extender

- TM Warthog lubricate

 

Regarding some of these items I may come to some of you for questions.

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I following his work from the beginning, compliments for the passion, for work and for ur beautiful motorcycle.

best regards Sir

( ps: sorry , google traslator )

Thank you so much sir!

Unfortunately the red VFR is no more.. It's... shall we say, shorter.. (and a BMW GS is now as well), but I'll leave it at that.

Fortunately, it has been replaced by my dream bike :)

 

2004 Kawasaki ZX-10R

425a995f946c58c996b9e741a17ebdc2

 

And some showing off :music_whistling:

3b2547229e6a89fe1c144990c2c3d069

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  • ED Team

Thread cleaned of off topic posts.

 

Keep it civil guys or warnings will get handed out.

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Forum rules - DCS Crashing? Try this first - Cleanup and Repair - Discord BIGNEWY#8703 - Youtube - Patch Status

Windows 11, NVIDIA MSI RTX 3090, Intel® i9-10900K 3.70GHz, 5.30GHz Turbo, Corsair Hydro Series H150i Pro, 64GB DDR @3200, ASUS ROG Strix Z490-F Gaming, HP Reverb G2

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Badass bike Lukas and welcome back. Been a while :cry: Good to have you back in business :thumbup:

 

Cheers

Hans

 

Thanks mate!! Yea the bike is a beast! Lots of fun! crossy.gif

 

I've always been around on the forums but not really posting.

 

@Mr_Burns: Yep, that really is me :thumbup::pilotfly:

 

Thread cleaned of off topic posts.

 

Keep it civil guys or warnings will get handed out.

Thanks Newy :)

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And immediately to some "issues" I'm having.

 

1) Gear lever.

 

It's uuhm... broken...

 

It was made by TomDK (if I'm not mistaken.. it's been a while :P :music_whistling: ).

Basically two aluminium square hollow tubes glued together. Unfortunately the glue failed... Anyone any suggestions?

attachment.php?attachmentid=127203&stc=1&d=1447355330

 

2) UFC

 

A while ago I acquired a UFC. It was in superb shape, as new and has been sitting in a box, in my room somewhere waiting to be built into my pit.

I've recently unpacked it and to my surprise the black/dark grey paint of the buttons has faded off massively. But not the front panel... You can see the difference below. As you can see, it's quite a bit difference.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=127204&stc=1&d=1447355330

IMG_20151110_221220812.thumb.jpg.fdb2ace961ca4a8fe330042b4aadc0b6.jpg

IMG_20151112_195355977.thumb.jpg.e66581499d50822b3c634f48d4d3b4c7.jpg

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And immediately to some "issues" I'm having.

 

1) Gear lever.

 

It's uuhm... broken...

 

It was made by TomDK (if I'm not mistaken.. it's been a while :P :music_whistling: ).

Basically two aluminium square hollow tubes glued together. Unfortunately the glue failed... Anyone any suggestions?

attachment.php?attachmentid=127203&stc=1&d=1447355330

 

 

Hi,

 

if the tubes are hollow I would look to make an insert adapter of some sort.

What you need is something that you can fix inside one of the tubes such that it's half in and half out. Then you can slide on the broken piece and attach them both together.

Maybe a smaller size aluminum tube or some wood just the right size to fit inside the tubes.

 

Then you could tap in a couple of small discrete holding screws either side of both broken peices to fix them firmly to the newly made insert which will hold the whole thing firmly as one.

 

If I made myself clear?


Edited by Tumbleweed

My Hangar: P-51D Mustang - KA-50 Blackshark - A-10C Warthog - F-86F Sabre - FC3 - Combined Arms - UH-1H

My Flying Adventures: www.dcs-pilot.com :pilotfly:

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Hi,

 

if the tubes are hollow I would look to make an insert adapter of some sort.

What you need is something that you can fix inside one of the tubes such that it's half in and half out. Then you can slide on the broken piece and attach them both together.

Maybe a smaller size aluminum tube or some wood just the right size to fit inside the tubes.

 

Then you could tap in a couple of small discrete holding screws either side of both broken peices to fix them firmly to the newly made insert which will hold the whole thing firmly as one.

 

If I made myself clear?

Hi! Yes certainly, thanks for thinking! I've thought of that method but rejected it (for now!) because of possible cosmetical issues..

 

Another twist in the bend is the fact that there are two wires passing through the tube for the LED's in the L/G handle...

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Sorry you got boned with poor workmanship. Scrap the old and rebuild the design for the Landing gear handle is posted some where I think on Gadroc site.


Edited by Deadman

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/a-10c-warthog-supplies

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

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To attach two pieces of aluminum best option would be welding, see if any of the moto repair shops you got to know can do it for you. If you cant find a way to weld bolting it to some adapter (wood?) Will look better then ducktape .

 

For faded paint there can only be one answer - recoat. And for the 30 buttons it will be quite a piece of work. The engravings themself seem very grey, I would guess its bare acrylic, so why you at it improvement can be done to that. Paint the inside white with a fine modeling brush . you inevitably will hit some of the grey surface with white , but it is not a problem since as step two you will paint the outside after masking the engravings with playdough/modelling clay. Allow at least 3 days for lettering to cure before masking and allow for main coat to cure for at least 3 days more before removing the paint. Clear topcoating after can help. Airbrush would be best, if not available canned spray paint from your modelling store will be fine too. Worst case generic rattle-cans can be used, those do spray very heavily so use them with care.

 

I could help with that as I'm painting my buttons at the moment and have everything setup. But not sure if mailing buttons to me and back makes sense to you.

 

 

20151108_002021-vi.jpg


Edited by agrasyuk

Anton.

 

My pit build thread .

Simple and cheap UFC project

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Hi! Yes certainly, thanks for thinking! I've thought of that method but rejected it (for now!) because of possible cosmetical issues..

 

Another twist in the bend is the fact that there are two wires passing through the tube for the LED's in the L/G handle...

 

Ahhh, okay, I see. I wasn't aware of the wires.

 

Yes, I totally understand re the cosmetics. I'd be exactly the same.

 

Though if you do have to resort to doing as suggested, you could get some small counter sink grub screws that would (if done correctly) sit pretty flush with the walls of the tubing and if you're painting the arm then the heads of the screws could be filled with semi-permanent type filler, sanded flat and painted along with the rest of the arm to disguise them.

 

But personally, I'd just get a new one made. I'm not a fan of bodging. Bodging something nearly always comes back to haunt you later on :megalol:

 

A job worth doing is a job worth doing well.

 

Nice looking build by the way. :thumbup:

My Hangar: P-51D Mustang - KA-50 Blackshark - A-10C Warthog - F-86F Sabre - FC3 - Combined Arms - UH-1H

My Flying Adventures: www.dcs-pilot.com :pilotfly:

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To attach two pieces of aluminum best option would be welding, see if any of the moto repair shops you got to know can do it for you. If you cant find a wey to weld bolting it to some adapter (wood?) Will look better then ducktape .

 

For faded paint there can only be one answer - recoat. And for the 30 buttons it will be quite a piece of work. The engravings themself seem very grey, I would guess its bare acrylic, so why you at it improvement can be done to that. Paint the inside white with a fine modeling brush . you inevitably will hit some of the grey surface with white , but it is not a problem since as step two you will paint the outside after masking the engravings with playdough/modelling clay. Allow at least 3 days for lettering to cure before masking and alow for main coat to cure for at least 3 days more before removing the paint. Clear topcoating after can help. Airbrush would be best, if not available canned spray paint from your modelling store will be fine too. Worst case generic rattle-cans can be used, those do spray very heavily so use them with care.

 

I could help with that as I'm painting my buttons at the moment and have everything setup. But not sure if mailing buttons to me and back makes sense to you.

 

 

 

PM :)

 

i can help you with a new aluminum rod, bend in one piece, see my thread here:

 

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=137484&page=14

 

post 136

 

As an alternative i can also 3D print you a "connector" prebend that fits into each end. :)

 

PM :)

 

Ahhh, okay, I see. I wasn't aware of the wires.

 

Yes, I totally understand re the cosmetics. I'd be exactly the same.

 

Though if you do have to resort to doing as suggested, you could get some small counter sink grub screws that would (if done correctly) sit pretty flush with the walls of the tubing and if you're painting the arm then the heads of the screws could be filled with semi-permanent type filler, sanded flat and painted along with the rest of the arm to disguise them.

 

But personally, I'd just get a new one made. I'm not a fan of bodging. Bodging something nearly always comes back to haunt you later on :megalol:

 

A job worth doing is a job worth doing well.

 

Nice looking build by the way. :thumbup:

Yes I agree on the bodgejob... Going for a new handle.

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OK - I can be classified as an idiot :lol::music_whistling:

 

The UFC buttons where like that originally - they didn't fade... Found some old posts again of the UFC and it showed the buttons as they are.. So I'll leave them like they are and figure out how to wire up the LED buttons.

 

So - the L/G lever and chair upgrades are the most important upgrades.

Tomorrow I'm going to rewire the L/G panel to a seperate BU0836 and upgrade the switches on the AHCP to quality switches and some more locking toggle switches (same as the TGP switch).

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Okay!

Update time.

 

Spent almost the entire day working on the pit and I've gotta say - a day well spent.

 

Things done:

- L/G Rewire to BU0836

- Fix L/G Lever

- Upgrade AHCP switches

- Implement Battery panel (though I have to invert one switch)

 

Managed to pull the knob off without it breaking *YAY!*

IMG_20151114_132136767_HDR.jpg

 

IMG_20151114_132140858_HDR.jpg

 

BU0836 rewired

IMG_20151114_132148052.jpg

 

IMG_20151114_132159616_HDR.jpg

 

Aaaaand managed to find 10x10 aluminium tube!! *yaaaay!!!* About to glue the end-knob on:

IMG_20151114_133125497_HDR.jpg

 

Kept looking left... *it's calling me? :P *

IMG_20151114_133135216.jpg

 

And the end result:

IMG_20151114_194713651.jpg

 

IMG_20151114_194717976.jpg


Edited by MTFDarkEagle
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Glad to see you back at it. Good job!

 

I still think this pit is all part of Lukas' plan to get his parents to sell the house to him, so they can get their own place that doesn't have an aircraft upstairs. ;)

ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700K, Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Crucial 32GB DDR4 2133, Samsung 950 Pro NVMe 256GB, Samsung EVO 250GB & 500GB SSD, 2TB Caviar Black, Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Extreme 8GB, Corsair HX1000i, Phillips BDM4065UC 40" 4k monitor, VX2258 TouchScreen, TIR 5 w/ProClip, TM Warthog, VKB Gladiator Pro, Saitek X56, et. al., MFG Crosswind Pedals #1199, VolairSim Pit, Rift CV1 :thumbup:

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  • 2 weeks later...
Can you tell what it is yet? :music_whistling:

 

 

As sleds go, that one looks like it will be hard to steer. :D

ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero, i7-6700K, Noctua NH-D14 Cooler, Crucial 32GB DDR4 2133, Samsung 950 Pro NVMe 256GB, Samsung EVO 250GB & 500GB SSD, 2TB Caviar Black, Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! Extreme 8GB, Corsair HX1000i, Phillips BDM4065UC 40" 4k monitor, VX2258 TouchScreen, TIR 5 w/ProClip, TM Warthog, VKB Gladiator Pro, Saitek X56, et. al., MFG Crosswind Pedals #1199, VolairSim Pit, Rift CV1 :thumbup:

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