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HMA's cockpit build


Hansolo

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Yea, I can hear the tone from here.....Bing......

 

HAhah,, I sent her a text one time while in route....Geeze!! I'll never do that a gain...she still tells people when I asked for a refresh on my wine...

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

 

MoBo: SaberTooth P67 B3 CPU: i7 2600K OC'd 4.434 Cooling: H100, Nine Asorted Fans GPU: EVGA Drvr344.75 GTX 780 and 580 w/physX MEM: Patriot Viper Xtrm 16GB Power: Antec HGC-900 HRD: Samsung SSD 256GB, WD 2TB wPageFile OS: Win7pro 64b Display: AcerHN274H-nVidia3D 27", Qty2 BenQ GW2750HM 27", Asus VS208 24", Qty2 Lilliput U80/c Input: G13, G110, G700s, TM WortHog, Saitek Cmbt Rudder, TM MFCDs, TrackIR5 Sound: Z906, G930w/IR5/Pwr. Pack Chair: See Album

 

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Hi Thick8,

 

Then I got time to look into this.

 

All the files you need are located here:

C:\Program Files\Eagle Dynamics\DCS World\Mods\aircrafts\A-10C\Cockpit\Scripts

 

The + 3000 is defined in command_defs.lua line 492 an onwards.

 

When you want to do the APU GEN you need to locate it in clickabledata.lua:

elements["PTR-EPP-APU-GEN-PWR"] = {class = {class_type.TUMB, class_type.TUMB}, hint = _("APU Generator On/Off"), device = devices.ELEC_INTERFACE, action = {device_commands.Button_1 ,device_commands.Button_1}, arg = {241,241}, arg_value = {-1,1}, arg_lim = {{0,1},{0,1}},updatable = true}

 

devices.ELEC_INTERFACE is found in devices.lua line 8 as counter() -- 1. Here you note down 1 (one) as you need it for cockpit_device_ID=1

 

device_commands.Button_1 we already found in comman_defs.lua to be + 3000, thus down = 3001 and up = 3001

 

{0,1} are the values for up=unactivated and down=activated thus value_down=1 and value_up=0

 

Then you have the full line:

{combos = {{key = "JOY_BTN89"}}, down = 3001, up = 3001, cockpit_device_id = 1, value_down = 1, value_up = 0, name = "APU generator power", category = "Electrical power control panel"}

 

The orange text is the original from the joystick.lua. I am pretty sure this is what it is displayed as in the game Option - Controls

 

Hope it made a little sense otherwise let me know.

 

Cheers

Hans

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Thank you for that. looks like I might be able to figure it out from there. One question, How does the it know which joy button 89 is being pressed as the Brydling board is seen as 2 126 button "virtual" joysticks. Do I have to specify which joystick I'm using?

John

Asus ROG C6H | AMD Ryzen 3600 @ 4.2Ghz | Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce WB 1080ti | 32Gb Crucial DDR4/3600 | 2Tb Intel NVMe drive | Samsung Odyssey+ VR | Thrustmaster Warthog | Saitek pedals | Custom geothermal cooling loop with a homemade 40' copper heat exchanger 35' in the ground

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Hi John,

 

What I do is that I enter the Game - Options - Controllers. Here you have "both" the joysticks listed which is actually the complete B256A13 card. Pick a function where nothing is mapped and select for one of the joystick. The press the button you want to map. If nothing happen then its not the right joystick. Pick the next and verify that the button is actually connected to thet particular joystick. Now Brydling has configured so that the joystick will list with a serial number which you can see in the top line of the joystick column. Note down the serial number because this is also identifiable in the joystick.lua file, i.e. it is the name of the joystick lua file.

 

After you have found the correct joystick lua file you enter the lines you need. Now here is a catch. As far as I have understood you need to delete lines similar to the ones your are modifying from the other joystick controller and keyboard lua files. Otherwise the lines will show up twice.

 

You can's use Helios for this as it will show up as Joy1 and Joy2. But another fine feature of Helios is that you can see all 128 input from there. You just need to add the interface. It's a quick way to verify if it has been wired correctly. Windows can only visially show 32 inputs but Helios is able to show all of then :thumbup:

 

Cheers

Hans


Edited by Hansolo
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Hans, I must apologize! I don't believe I thanked you for the CDU file. I was out of town when I got it, so wasn't really able to take a look, so when I got back I totally forgot to give you a shout.

Buttons aren't toys! :smilewink:

 

My new Version 2 Pit: MacFevre A-10C SimPit V2

My first pit thread: A-10C Simulator Pit "The TARDIS."

Dzus Fastener tutorial, on the inexpensive side: DIY Dzus Fastener

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OK, I've got it figured out (mostly). Should I have lua files with the card names? I have one for my warthog joystick, one for my warthog throttle, and ones for my MFDs. Is the game suppose to self generate the lua files when I hook up the card? I'm in the C:\Program Files\Eagle Dynamics\DCS World\Mods\aircrafts\A-10C\Input\A-10C\joystick folder.

John

 

EDIT: Found it.

C:\Users\John\Saved Games\DCS.openbeta\Config\Input\A-10C\joystick

 

Now everything make much more sense...

Thank you for your help Hans.

 

EDIT 2: So cool. So basically I'm replacing the iCommand part of the line with the data gleaned from the device, clickabledata, and command_def lua files. How you guys figure this stuff out is beyond me.

I first program all of the joystick buttons to a function in the ingame options menu. generate a html file as a cheat sheet. Then configure the buttons that require a dual function in the device specific lua file.

 

Can I configure pots for the lights as well?


Edited by Thick8

Asus ROG C6H | AMD Ryzen 3600 @ 4.2Ghz | Gigabyte Aorus Waterforce WB 1080ti | 32Gb Crucial DDR4/3600 | 2Tb Intel NVMe drive | Samsung Odyssey+ VR | Thrustmaster Warthog | Saitek pedals | Custom geothermal cooling loop with a homemade 40' copper heat exchanger 35' in the ground

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Oustanding work, John. Really glad I could help. I got a very good link heads up from one of the guys I am flying with, Tietze.

 

With regard to the potentiometer, I haven't found out how to do. I am hope that I can so that they can also be mapped directly. But no luck yet. I may have to eventually wire the potentiometers up via an Arduino board or something if I can't figure it out.

 

Cheers

Hans

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  • 1 year later...

Original slew sensor

 

Well haven't posted anything in over a year. Been quite busy flying with the squadron and buying stuff on Ebay. Some of the purchases were pretty awesome although they have not been interfaced yet. Some of the stuff are really looking forward for Mike Powell's boards :-)

 

Anyway I thought it was about time to post just a little bit since I haven't been totally idle. I have made modification to the original throttle so that it now has fuel cut-off and position feed back. Plan is to have it running on a BU0836A.

7VnBaiz.jpg

 

Have been making the first attempt to make a modified right throttle handle but have stopped it until I see what Deadman has cocking.

 

The real progress have been done the original slew sensor. Got in contact with geneb as he had gotten the F-15 slew sensor to work. Thank you very much for the assistance Gene. However it appears that the sensor in the A-10 is not similar to the one in F-15, or I just didn't understand how Gene had done it.

 

So I pursued the old fashion way of trying to note down the original amplifier board down on paper in order to understand how it worked. I am pretty sure I got heads and tails on it as well, but it wouldn't work. Eventually I took the sensor apart and got a fairly good idea on how it worked.

 

 

After doing some more tests I came to the conclusion that perhaps the dual operational amplifier was toast. Bought a few new ones on Ebay which I tried on Friday but seem to have same problem :-(

 

Now today victory!!

 

Don't seem to be able to get the YT link working so here is the direct one;

 

Here is first trial on an old laptop (in case the USB should burn due to different voltages being mixed). It probably should get a analogue optocoupler to make it perfect and I probably try that.

 

I will upload the schematics in a weeks time, including how the sensor is build up. Just got so existed with progress I had to share :-)

 

Here is a photo of what it looks on the inside. It's basically 4 strain gauges and 4 resistors.

fLCMLWm.jpg

 

 

Cheers

Hans


Edited by Hansolo
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Thanks Anton and LynxDK for kind words.

 

Nothing much new but have finished the schematics of what the setup looks like now. As already mentioned there is still a lot of tweaking to be done but have ordered some more parts a to see if I can get a little more stable signal. As backup I also ordered the strain gauge amplifiers from Leo Bodnar :-)

 

Attached are the schematic for electronics and sensor as well as a small sketch showing the pinout on the sensor itself. The operational amplifier is a MC1558N.

 

Cheers

Hans

Slew amplifier.pdf

1884782781_Slewsensorpinout.thumb.png.7f2d1bb182cd0c20652a80c370ee905e.png

Slew sensor.pdf

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Yes. It looks like just a single strand of wire glued/embedded unto the shaft in a u-shape. There are two opposing for each axis. So that when you move in e.g. X+ direction one of them is being compressed and one is being tension-ed.

 

Cheers

Hans

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Cool! Not really hard to make if I could find the right shaped gauge...

Yes. It looks like just a single strand of wire glued/embedded unto the shaft in a u-shape. There are two opposing for each axis. So that when you move in e.g. X+ direction one of them is being compressed and one is being tension-ed.

 

Cheers

Hans

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Might be possible Nikolas_A. I did a little search while stille trying to figure out how the real one was done. Attached is what I found to me most interesting due to size but you may find something more appropriate if not a real one.

 

Cheers

Hans

XY_Joystick_2015_.pdf

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Ok as a backup I bought two Leo Bodnar load cell bi-directional amplifiers;

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=199

 

Initially they had same jittering problem when unaffected but below shows what can be done with a small filter unit consisting of a resistor and a capacitor¨

 

Yes it also dampens the return to center when I let go of the slew but I think that is just a matter of adjusting the filter. Since the mockup of own component showed same jittering I think I can get this to work. The own parts looks like about 10$ US in total whereas the Leo Bodnar amplifier are 15$ US each. Anyway its peanuts compared to the throttle price

 

Cheers

Hans


Edited by Hansolo
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  • 1 month later...

Man...so jealous. I don't have room for a real pit. But I'll about 45-50 switches and rotaries to make RIFT flying a bit more realistic. Thanks for all your help Hans!!

hsb

HW Spec in Spoiler

---

 

i7-10700K Direct-To-Die/OC'ed to 5.1GHz, MSI Z490 MB, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz, EVGA 2080 Ti FTW3, NVMe+SSD, Win 10 x64 Pro, MFG, Warthog, TM MFDs, Komodo Huey set, Rverbe G1

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Awesome work so far! I just started working on converting my throttle as well. Current intent is to use the parts from my Thurstmaster Warthog to convert the right grip, just using the force sensor from the original grip. I'll 3D print a replacement body using the right plate and metal cover from the warthog.

 

Did you get any further in your slew control?

 

I opened my throttle up and the amplifier in mine seems to be working, although I'm not sure I'm getting independent X/Y output from it. Almost seems Y mirrors X output (Y goes down in voltage when X goes up.) I don't have the sensor mounted or a hat on it so it may be working just hard to use. What where the behaviors you saw on the included amplifier when you said they didn't work?

 

I have ordered parts to create Mike Powell amplifier and Bodnar's amplifiers as a back up.

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