Scytale Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Just for the record, I ended up getting the X-52 Pro and it's exactly what I wanted. No problems so far, got the STT software and drivers working too, though I needed to finally upgrade to Windows 10 to do it (Win7 would cause all sorts of wonky issues including BSODs). I just have to make sure never to unplug the stick while the computer is running, but as far as workarounds to annoying issues go, it's not much of a concern. Next up I have to get TrackIR. I'm left-handed, and my whole life I've flown thus, until I got this stick. So looking around the cockpit was easy in a non-HOTAS setup because I could just use my (free) right hand to do so. I knew in theory when I learned to fly properly this would no longer work as well, but I didn't realize just how annoying it would be. The mouse thing on the throttle of the X-52 does not suffice. I'm also flying like a total dipstick since my right hand is unused to handling a flight stick. I see this as a good thing because it gives me a very good reason to just practice simple flying and systems handling in the A-10. Maybe if I feel good enough I'll attempt a mid-air refueling, which I never did even when I was flying left-handed. In any case I want to produce stable, coordinated turns and most basic maneuvres with excellent proficiency by the time I order the TrackIR. Thanks again for your advice everyone, it was considered seriously and proved very useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucic Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 (edited) Thanks for this type. My T.16000M is already disassembled - I'm changing the buttons on the right side to grip. I was thinking in restrict the green acrilic square - but your solution is more easy and "elegant". :smilewink: For rudder I have a old "brainless" (gameport) Tm RCS that I hook for T.1600M rudder axis to replace the (bad) twist rudder. Sokol1 I'm gearing up to completely replace the gimbal mechanism of the stick. Two questions if you will: 1. Does the stick provide close to linear characteristics? If not, I'm cancelling the project right away. If yes... 2. What is the [gimbal axis <-> magnet] distance? 2a. Do you have any drawings or disassembly pictures of the mechanism? Disassembling the stick is really easy but the bugger is dirty with grease everywhere inside the mechanism! Edited November 13, 2015 by Bucic https://akaagar.github.io/briefing-room-for-dcs/ F-5E simpit project https://forum.dcs.world/topic/318106-f-5e-simpit-cockpit-dimensions-and-flight-controls/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 1 - How verify this? 2-3 - Some pictures of disassembled gimbal here: http://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/2269-thrustmaster-t16000m-chrezmernaya-zhestkost-neskolko-voproso/#entry233908 Since you will need a "3D" gimbal for used sensor in T.16000M, if you have tools to machine pieces, maybe a R/C helicopter swashplate" do a good gimbal. http://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/2269-thrustmaster-t16000m-chrezmernaya-zhestkost-neskolko-voproso/page-2#entry286368 Mine, as is spare stick, still disassembled... :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucic Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) 1 - How verify this? 2-3 - Some pictures of disassembled gimbal here: http://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/2269-thrustmaster-t16000m-chrezmernaya-zhestkost-neskolko-voproso/#entry233908 Since you will need a "3D" gimbal for used sensor in T.16000M, if you have tools to machine pieces, maybe a R/C helicopter swashplate" do a good gimbal. http://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/2269-thrustmaster-t16000m-chrezmernaya-zhestkost-neskolko-voproso/page-2#entry286368 Mine, as is spare stick, still disassembled... :) 1. I meant a rough validation by eyeballing :) 2. edit: scratch that! I took the photos myself yesterday. Focuuuus! I'll post some sometime later. BTW, one of you 16000 blokes mention a problem with a deadzone. What caused it? A too small clearance between the magnet and the sensor? Edited November 14, 2015 by Bucic https://akaagar.github.io/briefing-room-for-dcs/ F-5E simpit project https://forum.dcs.world/topic/318106-f-5e-simpit-cockpit-dimensions-and-flight-controls/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 BTW, one of you 16000 blokes mention a problem with a deadzone. What caused it? A too small clearance between the magnet and the sensor? Yes, a mechanical deadzone, the grip move more that sensor reading area in some (most) units, due variations in assembly line. The fix discover by guy above is loose/tight the bolts in gimbal base, adjusting the distance between the magnet and the sensor until the grip - and attached magnet - move only above the sensor reading area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucic Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 Yes, a mechanical deadzone, the grip move more that sensor reading area in some (most) units, due variations in assembly line. The fix discover by guy above is loose/tight the bolts in gimbal base, adjusting the distance between the magnet and the sensor until the grip - and attached magnet - move only above the sensor reading area. OK, thanks. The rudder and throttle on this stick are useless. 256 positions! :shocking: Even old logitech USB sticks had 1024! https://akaagar.github.io/briefing-room-for-dcs/ F-5E simpit project https://forum.dcs.world/topic/318106-f-5e-simpit-cockpit-dimensions-and-flight-controls/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 More than the 8 bits (CH standard) the issue is the low quality of pot' in these axis (as in other low cost sticks). In mine I have planed use this axis with mini-stick near HAT, but since finish this stick have very low priority... :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucic Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 More than the 8 bits (CH standard) the issue is the low quality of pot' in these axis (as in other low cost sticks). I don't understand what you're trying to say here. https://akaagar.github.io/briefing-room-for-dcs/ F-5E simpit project https://forum.dcs.world/topic/318106-f-5e-simpit-cockpit-dimensions-and-flight-controls/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 I don't understand what you're trying to say here. Rewire T.16000M throttle and rudder axis in one these, resulting in a analog "HAT": http://www.robot-italy.com/en/mini-joystick.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucic Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 Rewire T.16000M throttle and rudder axis in one these, resulting in a analog "HAT": http://www.robot-italy.com/en/mini-joystick.html OK, but I was referring to the poor resolution of the axis circuit (256 steps it's like a freaking multi-position switch), not the potentiometer. https://akaagar.github.io/briefing-room-for-dcs/ F-5E simpit project https://forum.dcs.world/topic/318106-f-5e-simpit-cockpit-dimensions-and-flight-controls/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) For that purpose, using the axis as analog HAT (instead rudder or throttle*) the *8 bits (256 points) is OK. BTW - CH Products joysticks still using that resolution, and a lot of people say that they are good. Alias, Mr.X one to il-2 BoS online "top gun" use then. ;) * For throttle are no problem in use 8 bits (256.), one dont need vary throttle in precise 0,8% increments, the issue in T.16000M is the bad quality of original pots. Edited November 14, 2015 by Sokol1_br Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucic Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 For that purpose, using the axis as analog HAT (instead rudder or throttle*) the *8 bits (256 points) is OK. BTW - CH Products joysticks still using that resolution, and a lot of people say that they are good. Alias, Mr.X one to il-2 BoS online "top gun" use then. ;) * For throttle are no problem in use 8 bits (256.), one dont need vary throttle in precise 0,8% increments, the issue in T.16000M is the bad quality of original pots. Yeah, not convinced and it's not even worth trying ;) https://akaagar.github.io/briefing-room-for-dcs/ F-5E simpit project https://forum.dcs.world/topic/318106-f-5e-simpit-cockpit-dimensions-and-flight-controls/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 I'm gearing up to completely replace the gimbal mechanism of the stick. Well, in that case is strange choose this stick for upgrade, the only thing the T.16000M really have positive is the sensor, the rest is common to low cost joysticks. You can do something more practical with other sensors and don't became dependent of his limited controller: 4 axis (2 useless by your standards), 16 buttons and POV HAT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucic Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Well, in that case is strange choose this stick for upgrade, the only thing the T.16000M really have positive is the sensor, the rest is common to low cost joysticks. You can do something more practical with other sensors and don't became dependent of his limited controller: 4 axis (2 useless by your standards), 16 buttons and POV HAT. Yeah, I bought it with a "I swear I'm not going to mod this one!" in mind ;) In the end I regreased it fully with silicone grease and I'm going to start looking into some high resolution USB controller. https://akaagar.github.io/briefing-room-for-dcs/ F-5E simpit project https://forum.dcs.world/topic/318106-f-5e-simpit-cockpit-dimensions-and-flight-controls/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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