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New Saitek X-55


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My Rhino will be bolted to the stand, so the light weight is not an issue with me.

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I am slightly confused byt the comment:

 

I have owned a Thrustmaster warthog and that thing was very heavy, this feels too light to me, like unstable kinda light, when you have the defualt spring installed into the joystick.

 

Does he mean the lightness in weight, or does he mean the feel in the stick as he mentions the default spring?

 

Either way I am not gonna stress it too much... plastic is light.

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I am slightly confused byt the comment:

 

 

 

Does he mean the lightness in weight, or does he mean the feel in the stick as he mentions the default spring?

 

Either way I am not gonna stress it too much... plastic is light.

 

He means the base is too light with the standard spring that comes installed. When you move the stick, the base will lift so you pretty much have to secure it to keep it from moving.

 

Later he talked about changing springs to a lighter one and that helped.

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  • ED Team
He means the base is too light with the standard spring that comes installed. When you move the stick, the base will lift so you pretty much have to secure it to keep it from moving.

 

Later he talked about changing springs to a lighter one and that helped.

 

Ah, see I didnt read the whole thing yet :) Thanks

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New Saitek X-55

 

Just voted on mass drop you guys only 6 votes left.

 

BTW I would like to see updated software that support all the new and old hardware from saitek

 

#give some love to my x65f


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Im not a fan of FF but have not used it since an old MS joysick. For me, I like the precision of a spring (although they arent strong enough) but only because of odd feedback in the past.

 

More important to me is the positioning of hats and I suppose all the money spend on HID and ergonomics in a military jet must mean the replica's, with practice (training) are the most intuitive.

 

As I currently drive a X52 (not even a pro) the 3 hats (be six with modifier) make is very useable in A-10, my only comment (except it isnt a split control) - is there are no controls on the little finger and all those for the thumb on the throttle are useless (next to one push button).

 

I like the hat on the trigger finger, very accurate.

 

So if i were making a non replica, I wouldnt change much from the X52 except get rid of the mouse and useless pots where the throttle thumb is and put another hat and some other switches (boat/china type), split the throttle and stick a switch on the throttle pinky.

 

Aside from that and the non FF that doesnt bother me, Saitec are complicating things...

 

My opinion!

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Ye, I don't understand big wuss about ffb sticks. Sure you see where your joystick is pointing but if you don't have any idea in the first place I don't think you exactly know the plane/helicopter as you should.

There is some really, I mean REALLY stupid decisions made with this stick. Especially leaving out index finger hat(s) really bothers me.

Problem with springs atleast to me is the wobbliness near the center. and spring "bounces". X52 pro spring is really strong if you like it.

Im so cheap that I dont have pedals so a bit afraid to go with warthog, but im really leaning towards it. It's just huge investment. 500+ euros for flightsim gear, jeez!

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FFB is "must have" for flying helos because of how trimming works there. You can not just hold the stick in the desired position all the time (and completely ignore trimming) - even with the lightest spring it gets awkward after a few minutes. And center trimmer mode is a no-go for me ... imagine you drive a car with manual shift transmission and you would have to let go of the steering wheel and clap into your hands two times every time you shift gears ... :o)

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I just ran across this forum posting where somebody claims to have received a X-55 PR model by mistake he posted some pics and measurements check it out.

 

https://forums.robertsspaceindustries.com/discussion/102572/so-i-got-my-saitek-x-55-rhino-early

 

Interesting that the stick appears to detach from the base quite easily. I wish Saitek (or someone else) would make a long helo style extension that would attach to the base, with a connector on the other end to attach the stick, that would be awesome.

 

Also slightly worried about the apparent plasticy-ness of the X-55 but as long as it's accurate enough to fly helos, it's probably the only option in my price range. Even if I could afford the X-65, I'd be too worried by the ending of support and I don't think the throttles very nice either.

 

The T16000M http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_UK/products/t16000m would probably be an option to pair with a separate throttle if only it had more hats on it. It might be interesting to try using a FFB stick as throttle/collective, as it will hold it's position until releasing the "brake".

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woo 32 votes already - 168 to go.

 

BTW whoever the person was that voted for the wrong one you might wanna fix that up :)

 

When we gonna know if we got the discount?

I'm new in massdrop....

 

Thanks!

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interesting review of the X-55...

 

"By offering a selection of 4 carefully engineered springs with stepped resistances which can be easily interchanged, they have solved the problem. Neat and effective but keeping the X-55 at a very competitive price. And the real inspiration was to allow use of the X-55 with no joystick resistance or self-centering at all. Why, may you ask would you want a 'floppy' joystick?"

 

"It makes the perfect cyclic control for flying helicopters as it allows for constant subtle adjustments without having to overcome any self-centering forces. We flew it and approved it, so sign up for a pre-order now!"

 

Still looking forward to an in depth hands on review showcasing all the features..I still feel confident in my pre order and have been trying to get in on the beta team.

 

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FFB is "must have" for flying helos because of how trimming works there. You can not just hold the stick in the desired position all the time (and completely ignore trimming) - even with the lightest spring it gets awkward after a few minutes. And center trimmer mode is a no-go for me ... imagine you drive a car with manual shift transmission and you would have to let go of the steering wheel and clap into your hands two times every time you shift gears ... :o)

 

 

Eh? I can press trim and move my joystick back to idle position and works just fine. Maybe Im just freak of nature? And yeah I have flown formation flying many times with non ffb without any problems. When I need to make adjustment I just move stick to my desired position and start manoverin, works just fine. And yep I have had ms ffb and logitechs piece of * ffb, I take proper hotas any day of the week over ffb function.

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That is interesting..

 

Unfortunately for me, I have a "No Rotary knobs" policy

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Eh? I can press trim and move my joystick back to idle position and works just fine.

Ofc does it work - like it would work if I clap my hands while driving ... :o)

 

But the necessity of this additional, "unnatural" move just adds an other potential factor for errors - especially when things get hectic.

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Ofc does it work - like it would work if I clap my hands while driving ... :o)

 

But the necessity of this additional, "unnatural" move just adds an other potential factor for errors - especially when things get hectic.

 

I made a suggestion for an alternative trim method about a year ago, which would avoid non-FFB users having to do this annoying re-centre stick dance constantly when using trim, here:

http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1661763&postcount=76

 

"I still think it would work better if stick movements away from the centre were still registered after clicking Trim (which would emulate the real behaviour, where after the pilot clicks Trim he can still move the stick further and click Trim again (or not), without any timeout or having to re-center the stick) but stick movements towards the centre were ignored until the stick had re-centered, which would allow us to release the stick, as is necessary when using a non-FFB stick as we can't hold it in position all the time, without any unwanted input."

 

In part this was prompted by the fact that it seems impossible to use trim the "proper" Russian way of repeated short-clicks, as it oversteers like crazy every time I try and so I've been forced to use the American click & hold method, which irritates me seeing as this is meant to be a sim.

 

I do wish there was a decent affordable FFB HOTAS but there isn't and so it would be nice if ED could explore some ways of making the Trim work properly for non-FFB users.

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Interesting that the stick appears to detach from the base quite easily. I wish Saitek (or someone else) would make a long helo style extension that would attach to the base, with a connector on the other end to attach the stick, that would be awesome.

 

Also slightly worried about the apparent plasticy-ness of the X-55 but as long as it's accurate enough to fly helos, it's probably the only option in my price range. Even if I could afford the X-65, I'd be too worried by the ending of support and I don't think the throttles very nice either.

 

The T16000M http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_UK/products/t16000m would probably be an option to pair with a separate throttle if only it had more hats on it. It might be interesting to try using a FFB stick as throttle/collective, as it will hold it's position until releasing the "brake".

 

I will be working on an extension and a collective hack/mod.

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I will be working on an extension and a collective hack/mod.

 

Cool. Look forward to seeing it in due course :)

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Unfortunately for me, I have a "No Rotary knobs" policy

 

Are you refering to the stick? If so, I'd agree that it's most unfortunate that it cannot be locked (and even so, it would have to be a better/stiffer system than the one on X52 Pro).

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I haven't measured the weight of my X-65 nor of my G940, but ... wtf? Both together lighter than a can of soda!? That can not be ...

 

glad to hear he was off on his weight measures.

 

https://forums.robertsspaceindustries.com/discussion/102572/so-i-got-my-saitek-x-55-rhino-early/p3

 

 

Actual weight after I made sure it was on the kitchen scales correctly:

Joystick 1.82kg

Thruster 1.137kg

Total weight 2.95 kg (so not two bars of chocolate)

 

For comparison in weight order (I hope this makes up for my lack of cooking skills)

 

2.95kg Saitek X-55

3.15kg Saitek X-52 (non pro version)

3.85kg Thrustermaster Cougar

4.50kg Saitek X-65

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:thumbup:

glad to hear he was off on his weight measures.

 

https://forums.robertsspaceindustries.com/discussion/102572/so-i-got-my-saitek-x-55-rhino-early/p3

 

 

Actual weight after I made sure it was on the kitchen scales correctly:

Joystick 1.82kg

Thruster 1.137kg

Total weight 2.95 kg (so not two bars of chocolate)

 

For comparison in weight order (I hope this makes up for my lack of cooking skills)

 

2.95kg Saitek X-55

3.15kg Saitek X-52 (non pro version)

3.85kg Thrustermaster Cougar

4.50kg Saitek X-65

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2.95kg $199 Saitek X-55

6.5kg $420 Thrustmaster Warthog (or for a few dollars more)

 

X-55 ≃ $0.067 per gram

Warthog ≃ $0.064 per gram

 

Pretty consistent :D (even if it's not the WT original retail price)


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To be honest, the lack of weight isn't an issue.

 

I think most of us here wouldn't have problems with opening up the base and hot glueing in a bit of lead or steel if needed.

 

I'm more concerned about people saying it's very plasticky, implying it's thin plastic rather than thicker more durable stuff.

 

Why do that when velcro works great.

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