MMjoy

[vvm13]

Thank you.

[rel4y]

Hello guys!

 

Could somebody of you experienced joystick modders please quickly check over my ProMicro Shield before I order it from OSHPark. I have no experience with shift registers so far and this is where I am the most unsure. Are the D0-D3 pins I selected valid options for shift regs? Also I am not sure I will mount all the pullup Rs except for the MISO (lowest) one which I believe is the most important. Thank you guys, I appreciate the help!

Edited April 13, 2018 by rel4y

[FIN_Centurion1]

Hi all, I am now trying to integrate my really simple hall sensor setup. The problem is I get really "jittery" or noisy output, and moving magnets close to the sensors seems to do nothing. Are all my sensors duds or what? I am confident I have the sensors wired correctly and the mmjoy2 firmware in place. I have the 1302 straight wired to the ProMicro A0 pin..

 

EDIT: To clarify : I have A1302 sensors from Ebay, from two different sources. Both have the same kind of problem. I use neodymium magnets. I have tried both my Arduino UNO R3 w/ big joystick firmware and the ProMicro with MMJoy2 fimware - in neither they work properly. I get returns but it seems to be mostly garbage.

 

Are all my sensors crap or is there something else. I use the kind of breadboard jumper wires to connect it now in the prototype version, to get a good alignment for magnets and sensors, and plan was to solder wires after that.

 

 

any ideas?

Edited November 17, 2017 by FIN_Centurion1

[ice_pdb]

@FIN_Centurion1 I use old UGN3503U with a filtering of x2. It's rock steady.

[Sokol1_br]

Are all my sensors crap or is there something else. I use the kind of breadboard jumper wires to connect it now in the prototype version, to get a good alignment for magnets and sensors, and plan was to solder wires after that.

 

This " breadboard jumper wires to connect" suggest that you have a bad wiring between sensor and Arduino.

 

Ideally need a shielded cable, but if are using common wiring, try braid or twist the wires in between, and use the short possible.

Seems the best wiring for this is one used telephony, with silicone insulation, but don't know their technical name.

 

Your magnet need be in a axis without play, hold magnet in hand for test is not good idea, the sensor is able to capt even your breath. :)

 

A1302 is low sensitivity sensor, needing big turn movement in magnet ~180 degrees for all reading.

Edited November 18, 2017 by Sokol1_br

[FIN_Centurion1]

Ok cool, that is good to know. I will try soldering wires and see. I still have a feeling that my sensors are not working though.

[rel4y]

I finally got around to install the brake pedal sensors for my awesome BRD-MS3 pedals, connect them and setup MMjoy2. It all works beautifully and is a joy to fly with. I designed the PCBs with Sprint and ordered them via OSH Park. The TLE5011 sensores are just incredibly precise sobs, as is the BRD-MS3 rudder mechanic! If anybody is interested in these PCBs or finished sensors for a home build, I still have 2 sets over as minimum order at OSHPark is 3 per piece. Here are a few pictures:

 

 

[FIN_Centurion1]

Ok guys I sorted it out, turns out the breadboard wires are really worthless. Now I soldered everything it is really steady, I can turn down filtering to x2. Phew!

 

Even with my sensor a bit farm from the magnet using a temporary taped (yes indeed) attachment to the bearing block it works quite nicely. Now I can confidently start figuring out more permanent arrangements. I also need to figure out if I want to keep using MMjoy and the ProMicro or use the Uno R3 and the ADS115 and get that sweet 16bit precision. I also have a 3d hall sensor I can potentially incorporate, but I think I will start simply. I still have some mechanical issues to sort out too.

 

Anyways, major kudos to the makers of MMJoy!

[rel4y]

I finally pulled the trigger on my first shapeways order and printed a fixed connecter for my BRD DS joystick base and a CH Combatstick/Fighterstick. It was basically just a test print to check if it works at all, but it fits perfectly in the grip. The print quality from the shapeways SLS process is pretty good, relatively tight tolerances and even holes turn out almost round. Though I did end up redrilling the holes for a better screw fit. The material seems quite sturdy, but the wall thickness on this piece is at minimum 3mm. I think it can absolutely take some abuse. I painted part of it with a black Edding and it seems to absorb the color pretty well and doesnt easily rub off. On the inside I cut out 7mm hexagons for the nuts, which fit in as designed.

 

The next print will be a two piece system compatible with the warthog connector via a Gardena nut and PS2 plug. For today I am happy with drilling the four holes correctly into the metal pipe. :)

 

[Coroner]

CH Pro Throttle and Fighter Stick

 

Hello all,

 

I've been lurking here for a long time. Finally started upgrading my gear with an Arduino Leonardo and MMjoy2 - it works great on F16+ simped pedals.

 

I'm having trouble working out the button matrix in a USB Ch Pro Throttle and a USB CH Fighterstick.

 

If found a matrix someone has already made for the Fighter Stick - is this right for the USB Fighter Stick? The wire colours seem to match up.

 

 

 

Here are pictures of the USB throttle insides and a diagram of what I have worked out so far.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Does anybody have a diagram of the matrix for the CH Pro Throttle USB?

 

How would I go about wiring both the Throttle and Stick matrices to the Arduino Leonardo?

 

Thanks

[Brewnix]

Hello guys!

 

Could somebody of you experienced joystick modders please quickly check over my ProMicro Shield before I order it from OSHPark. I have no experience with shift registers so far and this is where I am the most unsure. Are the D0-D3 pins I selected valid options for shift regs? Also I am not sure I will mount all the pullup Rs except for the MISO (lowest) one which I believe is the most important. Thank you guys, I appreciate the help!

 

 

rel4y wonder if you got this Promicro shield running?

[Sokol1_br]

Hello all,

 

I've been lurking here for a long time. Finally started upgrading my gear with an Arduino Leonardo and MMjoy2 - it works great on F16+ simped pedals.

 

I'm having trouble working out the button matrix in a USB Ch Pro Throttle and a USB CH Fighterstick.

 

If found a matrix someone has already made for the Fighter Stick - is this right for the USB Fighter Stick? The wire colours seem to match up.

 

https://i.imgur.com/MJvEI4L.jpg

 

Yes this scheme is FighterStick matrix, you don't need change anything in grip for plug in Arduino (or Bu0836A, DS12...) matrix.

 

There's no reason for this to be changes in stick USB version, and you could safety test.

 

PRO THROTTLE gameport use the same matrix, but this USB version has the mini-stick - axis, ehnce involve +5V and Gnd and require cautions, and due this mini-stick the matrix is different and reduced.

 

Probable you are the first person replacing electronics in PRO Throttle USB version.

Edited January 20, 2018 by Sokol1_br

[Coroner]

Thanks Sokol1_br,

 

I'll keep working on the Throttle - with the original controller board it is 8bit accuracy - the mini stick is awful at 8 bit. I may end up using the original board for the buttons, but that would mean two USB cables.

 

In the case of the stick, how would I go about wiring it to the Leonardo? I am not quite sure how I should wire the matrix.

[rel4y]

rel4y wonder if you got this Promicro shield running?

 

Yeah I did! Works like a charme, only I mislabled GND and VCC for the shift reg connectors in the first version. Have a look here:

 

https://theairtacticalassaultgroup.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26942&p=300039&viewfull=1#post300039

 

Thanks Sokol1_br,

 

I'll keep working on the Throttle - with the original controller board it is 8bit accuracy - the mini stick is awful at 8 bit. I may end up using the original board for the buttons, but that would mean two USB cables.

 

In the case of the stick, how would I go about wiring it to the Leonardo? I am not quite sure how I should wire the matrix.

 

The CH Pro Thottles are a piece of cake to adapt to MMJoy2. I did it just a few weeks ago and simply connected dupont wires from the connector. You can make full use of the button matrix/ PCB that is already there.

 

https://s9.postimg.org/igj3441tb/IMG_20180109_195051.jpg

Edited January 21, 2018 by rel4y

[Sokol1_br]

I'll keep working on the Throttle - with the original controller board it is 8bit accuracy - the mini stick is awful at 8 bit. I may end up using the original board for the buttons, but that would mean two USB cables.

 

Yes, in that way have will 2 USB cables and two "joystick" for Windows/games, no issue for modern flight games.

 

In this case just follow the PCB trails from connector to mini stick axes, is used 4 pins, +5V, Gnd, Axis X and Y - none shared with button matrix, and plug this in Arduino (or other controller board), plus the throttle axis.

 

In the case of the stick, how would I go about wiring it to the Leonardo? I am not quite sure how I should wire the matrix.

 

If you mean FighterStick:

 

If want only update axes controller, just unplug pot connectors from original controller and plug in Arduino, will end with 2 USB cables and 2 joysticks for Windows/Games.

 

Of if want use only Arduino, plug the connector coming from grip in Arduino pins following the 5x4 Matrix scheme. Since this connector don't match Arduino pins position, the more easy way to do this is using Dupont cables between Arduino and grip connector. Do the same for axes, no other change is needed.

 

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/dupont-wire

 

Can make new connector(s) using this bar of (female) connector, that match Arduino pins.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-Gold-Plated-2mm-2-0mm-Pitch-1x40-Pin-40-Pin-Single-Row-Female-Header-Strip/172274136704?epid=1977517962&hash=item281c56b680:g:xVYAAOSwytJZ9ZUJ

 

rel4y

The CH Pro Thottles are a piece of cake to adapt to MMJoy2.

 

Yes, but their throttle is not "CH PRO Throttle", is "CH PRO Throttle USB" that have an mini-stick (2 axis) replacing the top HAT. :)

Edited January 21, 2018 by Sokol1_br

[rel4y]

Yes, but their throttle is not "CH PRO Throttle", is "CH PRO Throttle USB" that have an mini-stick (2 axis) replacing the top HAT. :)

 

I know Sokol. I had one of these as well (just sold it on the ATAG forums) and I also had it set up with MMJoy2. I had a handdrawn layout somewhere, Ill have a look at where it is.

 

The reason I kept the old gameport CH Pro Throttle is that its market value is much less than the USB version. I bought the gameport one for 4€ on ebay and sold the USB one for 45, while they both are pretty much the same with MMJoy2 + dupont cables (and a PS3 stick).

Edited January 21, 2018 by rel4y

[Coroner]

Thanks Sokol1_br and rel4y.

 

I'll have a go at it on the weekend. If you could find that diagram of the CH Pro Throttle USB matrix rel4y, that'd be great.

 

Looking forward to finally having a smooth and simple controller to configure.

 

Cheers :)

[rel4y]

Thanks Sokol1_br and rel4y.

 

I'll have a go at it on the weekend. If you could find that diagram of the CH Pro Throttle USB matrix rel4y, that'd be great.

 

Looking forward to finally having a smooth and simple controller to configure.

 

Cheers :)

 

Here, have a look at this. I drew it based on the MMJoy profile, should be in the ballpark. That one green wire might have been a column instead of a row. I didnt update the profile afterwards. The top one is completely correct though. :D

 

[Coroner]

Thanks a lot! I'll see how it goes on the weekend. I really appreciate the help.

[SGT Coyle]

Any chance this would work with Teensy 3.6?

[Sokol1_br]

Any chance this would work with Teensy 3.6?

 

No, this firmware is for boards based on MCU ATMEL ATMEGA32u4, AT90USB64, AT90USB128.

 

Teensy 3.6 use ARM Cortex-M4.

Edited January 23, 2018 by Sokol1_br

[SGT Coyle]

Copy that.

[Stulee]

Hello,

A few days before I built a box (Micro Pro and MMjoy2) with switches and buttons that use 4021 registers. Everything works fine until I connected two encoders. Due to the fact that there was no free pins in 4021, the encoders were directly connected to the Arduino Mirco Pro (encoder No. 1: rows-B5, columns-E6, B4; encoder No. 2: rows-D7, columns-D4, C6 ). The problem turned out that the encoders "took over" previously assigned to the "H / W. Buttons" switches (1-2 and 7-8 ). As a result, the whole assignment of buttons in MMjoy2 do not work correctly. Is there any software way to change it?

Regards,

Stulee

Edited February 13, 2018 by Stulee

[Brewnix]

Hello,

A few days before I built a box (Micro Pro and MMjoy2) with switches and buttons that use 4021 registers. Everything works fine until I connected two encoders. Due to the fact that there was no free pins in 4021, the encoders were directly connected to the Arduino Mirco Pro (encoder No. 1: rows-B5, columns-E6, B4; encoder No. 2: rows-D7, columns-D4, C6 ). The problem turned out that the encoders "took over" previously assigned to the "H / W. Buttons" switches (1-2 and 7-8 ). As a result, the whole assignment of buttons in MMjoy2 do not work correctly. Is there any software way to change it?

Regards,

Stulee

 

Buttons 1 - 12 in mmjoy is reserved for Encoders. Not 100% but i believe Its hardcoded in MMjoy no way to change it. When I added 6 encoders to my radio panel I had to go thru all the buttons again.

[Goblin]

Stulee, I don’t think you can use both shift registers and a button matrix, together. It’s either/or.