zhutwo

Is the no-center cosmo cam perfectly linear or is it slightly progressive? How does the Avia no-center cam compare? Is it only moderately more progressive or does it get very heavy near the limits? I don't actually own this stick but had the idea of buying the nice metal cams for my 3d printed stick.

Made soft center cams for public access: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4717756

Made a PS3 stickbox mount for public access on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4710408

Cutting the plastic with a dremel is no problem. I've done this many times for other mods. What makes it especially difficult on the suncom is the legs are right in the corners of the smaller box, so they can't be cut flush with a dremel disc without damaging the case. But maybe I can cut them at the height of the larger box and still make it work.

The suncom stock gimbal screws into those legs which get in the way of a mounting solution. The legs would probably have to be cut off to make room to secure the spacer through the holes for the 4 ornamental screws on the outside of the case.

STL is pretty useless to edit because it's the output mesh geometry and not the reference dimensions. Plus there are so many polygons that it takes 10 mins just to import, and crashes immediately after. Maybe someone knows something I don't. I only learned SolidWorks just for this. Also it's a bit more complicated than just a spacer. I need to make a mounting solution to fasten the gimbal to the case using the existing screw holes ideally.

I will try to reverse engineer a case and handle solution for it, but it'll be tougher since the author hasn't shared any source files.

Been working on this for a while. Was delayed by getting my hands on a 3d printer to test with.

Hi, I've modified the olukelo gimbal to support Suncom F15 grips. Also including a housing assembly with gate and VESA mount base, and soft center cams. Details and instructions are in the thingiverse links. suncom mod: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4684253 housing assembly: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4684424 soft center cams: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4717756 olukelo's original gimbal: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2496028

Playing around with sensor placement, the mechanism of action works but the range of detection before the sensor tops out is not able to cover the entire range of motion of the stick. The lever length of the magnets is too long as it is, so trimming down the receptacles might be necessary. Other option could be to restrict the range of motion of the stick. UPDATE: Even with shorter lever length, the sensor is very fiddly and has an inverse exponential curve that would need to be compensated for in software. GranBichus said he used cylinder magnets and not buttons, but I don't see how a longer magnet and therefore longer lever length would make anything better. I'm just going to revert back to stock pots for now and maybe see if I can think of any novel solutions with the base and gimbal I chopped up. Sokol, what's the difference between the Object 77 you showed me earlier and this?

Progress: In order to make clearance for the magnet, these plastic gates must be removed: After: The alternative is to remove some of the receptacle ends, but that would make it very difficult to restore to stock function. I did slightly sand down the one with the slightly rounded end to make it easier to attach the magnets flat: Note that this receptacle sticks out slightly more than the other (1-2mm difference). I'm not sure what the reason for this was in the stock design, but it may need to be compensated for slightly in hall sensor positioning. Next step is to mount the hall sensors. This will require quite a bit of trial and error to get a good range of output values, so it's handy to have the gimbal detached from the rest of the stick/base. An ideal solution would allow for easy height/depth repositioning of the sensor while keeping it at a right angle.

I think it's like this: With cylinder magnets oriented this way, the rotational disturbance between axis should not matter too much because the magnetic field is radially symmetrical from the reference point of the sensor. Crucially, if you look inside, the metal ball pivot point is embedded in the gimbal so that it is aligned with the axes.

Yeah, and then in that thread I tried to get his attention 3 times over a period of 3 years to find out how he placed his magnets/sensor and he missed my reply every time. Finally after 12 years I PM him and he just tells me how he did it. It is such an obvious solution when you think about it.

I have it currently working fine with original pots using MMJoy2. The problem is it is impossible to find replacement pots in the same dimensions as the original, so a hall sensor solution is needed for the long term. I think this has to do with the small amount of play inside the gimbal holes with the plastic nibs. You could try filling the holes with a generous amount of the thickest grease you can find to try to lessen some of the tolerance. I am noticing a lot of deadzone with the stock pots as well. The raw value tends to leave +/- 20 in the direction it came from when returning to center, which I am certain is due to the tolerance inside the gimbal hole. I PMed GranBichus on the XPlane forum and he said he mounted the magnets directly to the gimbal, and attached the hall sensors to the potentiometer casings. This seems promising and should solve the issue of deadzone by eliminating the use of the nibs entirely. Some excavating of either the gimbal or base will be necessary in order to make clearance for the magnets however.

Going to order some of this style of potentiometer and see if it can be used as a rail to mount magnets and therefore provide smoother action in the DocFlyer mod.