Mounting Monstertech on the NLR Boeing rig

[sepruda]

I have the NLR Boeing rig, with a 200mm extension clamped to the clamp plate using a Virpil desk mount. It works well, but now I want to get a VKB stick and also have some holders for MFDs etc. So I decided to get a monstertech mount.

 

However that doesn't fit out of the box due to the very vertical design. 

 

Does anyone have a good suggestion for how to mount it? Or have an alternative recommendation for a seat?

[_Hoss]

Pictures of you situation please.... need to figure out where middle C is. 

[sepruda]

On 8/1/2023 at 4:44 AM, _Hoss said:

Pictures of you situation please.... need to figure out where middle C is. 

Currently this is what I have, the clamping plate I mounted on the hotas centre plate and Ived attached the monstertech mount to it. Don't currently have a stick, since I'm planning on getting a VKB and currently have a Virpil (and those things are expensive), but will have a VKB stick with extension at the bottom of the mount.

[Customizer171]

On 7/31/2023 at 7:33 PM, sepruda said:

I have the NLR Boeing rig, with a 200mm extension clamped to the clamp plate using a Virpil desk mount. It works well, but now I want to get a VKB stick and also have some holders for MFDs etc. So I decided to get a monstertech mount.

 

However that doesn't fit out of the box due to the very vertical design. 

 

Does anyone have a good suggestion for how to mount it? Or have an alternative recommendation for a seat?

I have a VKB with 200 mm extension mounted with a MonsterTech. I think you saw my pictures in another thread. The vertical design is no problem when attached to the bottom cross beam. However, I am not using the hotas center plate as my solution interfere with the attachment of that.

I have been thinking of another way to attach the stick to make it possible using the center plate and also make getting in and out of the rig easier.

I think it will be possible using the bottom part of the supplied stick mount, if mounting it horizontally instead of vertically. You will just need to attach a diy plate with correct thickness to the square bar.

I haven't tried this myself yet, still in the planning phase, it's just an idea if you want to try it.

[sepruda]

1 hour ago, Customizer171 said:

I have a VKB with 200 mm extension mounted with a MonsterTech. I think you saw my pictures in another thread. The vertical design is no problem when attached to the bottom cross beam. However, I am not using the hotas center plate as my solution interfere with the attachment of that.

I have been thinking of another way to attach the stick to make it possible using the center plate and also make getting in and out of the rig easier.

I think it will be possible using the bottom part of the supplied stick mount, if mounting it horizontally instead of vertically. You will just need to attach a diy plate with correct thickness to the square bar.

I haven't tried this myself yet, still in the planning phase, it's just an idea if you want to try it.

Thanks! Yes I did see your clever upside down solution, and also contemplated it, but I really need something to attach mfds and stuff on in the front, so I couldn't not have the center hotas.

As I mentioned I haven't gotten a stick yet that fits, but it does seems maybe not the best solution. The mount sits very close to the seat and it doesn't seem entirely stable.

 

I'm not sure I understand your other idea,  but I am trying to avoid DIYing as much as possible.

[Customizer171]

3 hours ago, sepruda said:

Thanks! Yes I did see your clever upside down solution, and also contemplated it, but I really need something to attach mfds and stuff on in the front, so I couldn't not have the center hotas.

As I mentioned I haven't gotten a stick yet that fits, but it does seems maybe not the best solution. The mount sits very close to the seat and it doesn't seem entirely stable.

 

I'm not sure I understand your other idea,  but I am trying to avoid DIYing as much as possible.

I am sure there are better ways to do it than my solution but it was a quick fix since I already had the MonsterTech.

It's actually very stable and adjustable but the main reason for me to try another solution is that it's blocking the way a bit, when I enter and exit the seat. I also want to use the center hotas plate.

The explanation of my new idea wasn't the best but I get a picture of it when it's done. It will be DIY but nothing complicated, basically bolting a mounting plate to an existing square bar.

[Customizer171]

On 8/3/2023 at 10:38 AM, sepruda said:

I'm not sure I understand your other idea,  but I am trying to avoid DIYing as much as possible. 

I have now finished my new idea, and here is a picture of what I tried to explain in my text. Hopefully it makes things easier to understand.

Edited August 8, 2023 by Customizer171
Additional info

[sepruda]

2 hours ago, Customizer171 said:

I have now finished my new idea, and here is a picture of what I tried to explain in my text. Hopefully it makes things easier to understand.

 

That looks very sleek and nice! Are you able to use the center hotas plate now? 

Please tell me how you built it  How is the gunfighter base mounted, and did you get that angled  bracket made or is it from the set? Is it solid?

 

[Customizer171]

1 hour ago, sepruda said:

That looks very sleek and nice! Are you able to use the center hotas plate now? 

Please tell me how you built it  How is the gunfighter base mounted, and did you get that angled  bracket made or is it from the set? Is it solid?

 

I am happy with the result and it makes it possible to use the center hotas plate.

The Gunfighter base is attached to a 5 mm thick plywood plate with the the original mounting screws. 

The "angled bracket" is included in the set. It's actually the original joystick bracket. I didn't attach the joystick plate (the Gunfighter don't fit anyway).

Instead of mounting it vertically as it meant to be, I mounted it horizontally, from the crossbeam to the back, in under the seat.

On top of this square bar I attached a 25 mm thick piece of wood with two angle iron. I had to drill two holes in the square bar for this, the bolts and nuts is from the set. You can see this in the top photo.

I also had to drill four holes in the top of this thicker piece of wood to allow the 5 mm plywood with the GF base, to be mounted flat on top of the 25 mm piece of wood. The original GF base screws is sticking out 5 mm, that's why I had to drill holes in the thicker wood.

The 5 mm plywood with the joystick base is then (after deciding the correct distance) fixed to the thick wood plate with a couple of screws.

It's a very simple diy that is solid and cheap to make. I already had the wood and spray paint, so only had to buy the two angle iron for around 1,5 EUR.

I hope it all makes sense or just ask and I will do my best to clarify.

Edited August 8, 2023 by Customizer171
Corrected info

[sepruda]

9 minutes ago, Customizer171 said:

I am happy with the result and it makes it possible to use the center hotas plate.

The Gunfighter base is attached to a 5 mm thick plywood plate with the the original mounting screws. 

The "angled bracket" is included in the set. It's actually the original joystick bracket. I didn't attach the joystick plate (the Gunfighter don't fit anyway).

Instead of mounting it vertically as it meant to be, I mounted it horizontally, from the crossbeam to the back, in under the seat.

On top of this square bar I attached a 25 mm thick piece of wood with two angle iron. I had to drill two holes in the square bar for this, the bolts and nuts is from the set. You can see this in the top photo.

I also had to drill four holes in the top of this thicker piece of wood to allow the 5 mm plywood with the GF base, to be mounted flat on top of the 25 mm piece of wood. The original GF base screws is sticking out 5 mm, that's why I had to drill holes in the thicker wood.

The 5 mm plywood with the joystick base is then (after deciding the correct distance) fixed to the thick wood plate with a couple of screws.

It's a very simple diy that is solid and cheap to make. I already had the wood and spray paint, so only had to buy the two angle iron for around 1,5 EUR.

If you decide to give this a try, I just want to inform you that the picture of the mounting plate is not correct, (it was taken before I realised I screwed it up,lol.) I had to unscrew the angle irons from the square bar and twist the bar 180 degrees. The small angle to the left in the picture should be up, close to the wood.

I hope it all makes sense or just ask and I will do my best to clarify.

Very well done! And the result looks really nice. Was the reason you attached the GF base to a thin piece of plywood and not directly in the thick wood, to give you more control of the position. Also, I really like the detail with the center nook where the cable falls down

[Customizer171]

32 minutes ago, sepruda said:

Very well done! And the result looks really nice. Was the reason you attached the GF base to a thin piece of plywood and not directly in the thick wood, to give you more control of the position. Also, I really like the detail with the center nook where the cable falls down

I used a thin plywood because it made it easier to get the holes right with my hand held drilling machine. It's very difficult to drill absolutely straight through 25-30 mm. If the holes are just a little bit angled, the screws won't fit in the GF base which has tight tolerances. This way I could use the original screws. It also makes it easy to make small adjustments of the position.

I felt it was necessary to have the cable nook to protect it from accidents when getting in and out of the pit since it's not a lot of space when the center hotas plate is attached.