yoreh

Great job Sir. i will be following your progress for sure! by the way, do you wish to sell the old legends of the warning lights (the yellow ones)? Cheers, Yoreh

Parts printed and assembled for test fitting: Cheers, Yoreh.

My (very baisc...) design for the ilde stop/release mecanism. it features a solonoid mounted verticaly above a cam pully wheel. when throttle is opened, the pully is rotated up to the point where the solonoid shaft "clears" the cam and drops into place by means of a spring. from this point the trottle can only be opened further as the solonoisd shaft bumps into the cam wall when trying to close. to fully close it, we need to press the idle release button witch activate the solonoid, electro-agneticly pulling the shaft above the cam level so throttle can be fully closed. to be printed... cheers, Yoreh

Well, for now it's somehow in a stand still... hoping to find more time to push on. Cheers, Yoreh

Hi, i'm sorry but the collective head parts are not my desgin and prints. i ordered them from MicroHelis.de Cheers, Yoreh

it's a 2.5mm thick PVC Sheet.

Hi, the Glareshield is just a piece of flexible PVC sheet witch i cut to shape and painted black. i then drilled holes evey 10cm or so along it's edge and screwed it to the edge of the instrument panel (witch is 17mm MDF board). it is that simple. hope that helps, Cheers Yoreh

Thank you Sir. Some progress on the collective throttle mechanism. in the photo you can see an M8 threaded rod that will serve as the collective central rod. the white printed cylinder is the adapter that will hold the threaded rod and connect to the throttle grip. the M5 bolt head is removed, i cut a small notch instead so i can use a flat head screwdriver to fit it in place. this bolt is fitted through the throttle grip, through the groove in the collective shaft, into a ready made hole on the center of the white adapter. now, when twisting the grip, the adapter rotate, along with the threaded rod. this, in turn will rotate a pot at the back of the shaft. another printed cylinder is fitted at the end of the shaft to keep the M8 rod centered. next stage is to design the pot housing, along with the idle stop/release mechanism. cheers, Yoreh

Update - Collective stick Here's a small update. I started working on my collective stick last friday. the switchbox is designed and 3D printed by Juergen Behrens from "microheli.de". i'd like to thank Juergen for his perfect designs and prints. here is the printed switchbox with all it's parts: the shaft is a piece of a stainless steel tube. i started by fitting the box on the shaft and marked the set screw location. i then drilled and taped it to M4. i used a cone head alen screw to secure the box to the shaft. i then fitted the friction nut, throttle and the rear bracket, marked the set screw location, drilled and taped to M4. the throttle handle has a hole on it, witch i want to use to "transfer" the rotational movement to a rod witch will be fitted inside the shaft. in order to do that, a pin will have to pass through the throttle, through the shaft itself and connect to the centeral rod. i needed to cut a groove in the shaft for this pin to run in... so, i marked the hole location in a closed throttle position, and in the fully open position. i removed the throttle and marked the grove between the hole marks. i used a hand saw to cut the groove. this somehow weaken the shaft, but no worries, the shaft will be "held" by the throttle from the outside, and the adapter of the central rod from the inside. the centeral rod will be routed along the shaft to the shaft base. there i will fit a pot for throttle position, along with a solonoid setup to control the idle stop/release positions. cheers, Yoreh

Looking good!!!

Hi, yesterday i managed to hook up the instrument panel to my laptop and test how it looks. There is still some fine tuning to be done but for now i'm pretty happy with the results. I added some blue lenses for the compass and marker beacon, and moved the three main warning lights down the panel in order to use the software (Ikarus) warning lights. Also added a bazel for the radar altimeter. Cheers Yoreh. Sent from my Redmi Note 4 using Tapatalk

Try to avoid usong pin 1 and 2. I think they mess up things as they are used to communication

While i was searching for a solution how to sync my UHF divce with dcs, Hansolo referred me to his Tacan project and tjis helped me alot. Maybe this can help you too... https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=3336218&postcount=180 Cheers, Yoreh.

Thank you PilotMi8! As a final stage of the cyclic, i took a 25X0.5 cable and soldered a DB25 connector at it's end - the other end was connected to the junction wbox with terminals - Hooking up the pedals rotary sensor. i used the same sensor as the cyclic. i took an aluminum rod and drilled a 6mm hole for the sensor shaft, and tapped an M5 hole for the set scerw - sensor on the rod - i installed an angle bracket for the sensor at the right location - i then cut the rod to lentgh, and drilled a second 6mm hole at the other end. with the aid of an M6 linkage and an M6 long bolt, i hooked up the sensor to the pedals "T" bar section - i don't like this setup 100% but it works so i have no intentions to delay on that. i did some more work on my instrument panel. the encoder brackets were replaced with smaller ones. i did not like the aliexpress encoder heads so i decided to make some myself. i started wi 12mmX20mm aluninum rod. in the picture the rods after knurling process, and the original heads from aliexpress - i drilled a hole in the center for the encoder shaft, and tapped two M5 set screws. this is how it looks like - i added a frame for the Attitude indicator. on the frame i mounted two encoders for the pitch / roll adjustment - that's all for now. i'm starting to stress with the amount of work yet to be done :cry: cheers, Yoreh

Absolutely amazing!!!