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dadunn1700

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Posts posted by dadunn1700

  1. 9 minutes ago, Tholozor said:

    When you did the NORM alignment, did you ensure to verify the starting Lat/Lon coordinates on the DED with the ENT key on the ICP?

    No.  Didn't know that was a thing.  I googled it and found a vid by Wagner on the NORM alignment update from 3 yrs ago.  Hope this fixes the issue.  Thanks again for the help.

  2. 21 minutes ago, Furiz said:

    Don't move the aircraft till it starts flashing aligned, I set it to STOR HDG and when it starts flashing aligned (takes about 90 sec) I quickly switch to NAV.

    You should see yellow threat circles on your HSD.

    It should be working, I just did it in your mission.

    Weird.  I did a full NORM align this time and it still wouldn't work.  All the way to 10.1 /10 alignment.   I'll try the rougher align mode STOR HDG next, but here is the trk file for the full NORM alignment.  Should theoretically be a better alignment than STOR HDG

    HAD not working (Full NORM alignment).trk

  3. 33 minutes ago, Furiz said:

    One thing people forget about proper alignment of the INS is that it needs to be done, so if you set to NAV mode at 0.5 the aircraft is not aligned.

    What that means is that it doesn't know where it is on the planet earth, therefore its sensors don't know what their position is and then they can't show you the position of targets cause they don't know where to place them.

    I took over your mission and everything worked fine cause I did Stored Alignment properly.

    Found all the emitters just fine.

    Screen_230226_223220.jpg

     

    So you went beyond a 8.0/10 alignment?  Thats where I normally stop, where the RDY starts flashing, but that didn't work either.

  4. I got the HAD to work if I spawned into an already flying jet with the HTS equipped, but not if I have it armed before cold start.

    Oddly enough I found out the HAD, in the cold start / re-arming situation, is picking up signals, but the contact symbiology isn't appearing on the MFD.  If I hover my TDC around I can pick up invisible search radars to lock on to.

    Here is a track file showing whats happening

    HAD not working.trk

      

  5. 11 hours ago, Furiz said:

    HTS scans for each class of SAM, that scan takes some time so the reason it didn't detect anything is probably short amount of time, you can select which threats it scans for. On the HAD in the upper row there is a THRT button, click it and select which classes of SAM you want it to look for to decrease the amount of time it scans for a specific SAM type. If you select only one type it will scan for it more often.

    There are ALIC tables for SAM threats in the download section on the website like: https://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/files/3312295/

     

    Still having the same issue if I re-arm and takeoff. I got the HAD to work if I spawned into an already flying jet with the HAD equipped, but not if I have it armed before cold start. Oddly enough I found out the HAD, in the cold start situation, is picking up signals, but the symbiology isn't appearing on the MFD.  If I hover my TDC around I can pick up invisible search radars to lock on to.  

    I'm uploading a track file.   HAD not working.trk

     

    PS.  Think I will report this as a separate issue since I do think this is a bug. 

  6. 8 hours ago, Furiz said:

    HTS scans for each class of SAM, that scan takes some time so the reason it didn't detect anything is probably short amount of time, you can select which threats it scans for. On the HAD in the upper row there is a THRT button, click it and select which classes of SAM you want it to look for to decrease the amount of time it scans for a specific SAM type. If you select only one type it will scan for it more often.

    There are ALIC tables for SAM threats in the download section on the website like: https://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/files/3312295/

     

    I'll give that a shot.  I was aware of limiting the threat scanning if you are using the HARM as the sensor on the "WPN" mfd page as there is a clearly seen refresh rate based on the number of threats it's scanning for and the width of the scan, but I was unaware this was necessary for the HAD.  Must be a new thing since the last I played.  In the past, and in BMS, the HAD simply picked up everything rather quickly with no filtering required.  

    • Like 1
  7. 8 hours ago, Furiz said:

    That would be my second guess, glad you found the problem. Thought the fuel issue was a separate issue 😉

     

    One other question before I make a separate post.  Do you know of any bugs with the HTS/HAD?  Don't remember ever having these issues and figured I'd ask before making a separate post.  

    Spawn in a clean f-16

    re-arm with HTS and Harms

    re-arming complete

    Startup jet/ takeoff

    Power up HARMs

    Power up HTS hardpoint station

    Nothing detected on HAD despite being launched on from 10 thru to 2 oclock.  

  8. 20 hours ago, Furiz said:

    Hi,

    Check if your TRIM/AP DISC Switch (Manual Trim Panel on the left side) is set to Norm, if it is set to DISC the Auto Pilot will disconnect since your Trim control is disconnected.

    also check if you have some of the switches bound to it and they are making it go to DISC.

    That is the usual suspect.

     

    Thanks man.  I thought I had checked everything but I found out what it was.  I had mapped the refueling bay to a switch on my throttle somehow and I was spawning into the aircraft with the refueling bay open or opening immediatly during startup.  Thats why the autopilot wouldn't turn on, and hopefully also why i kept getting "trip fuel" warnings.  Should have noticed the blue "RDY" warning light for the refuel door.  

    • Like 1
  9. Tried hoping into the free flight with the F-16 with DCS 2.8.2.35759 (current Beta version) and the autopilot will not activate.  If I flip the switch in the cockpit to "altitude hold" it will not stay fixed and not activate. I'm at 10,000 ft moving at 300 knots and flying level, but still will not activate even after spawning into a clean F-16 already in flight.  

     

    HOTAS: 

    RealSim FSSB R3 Stick and Base

    WinWing Orion 2 w/ F-16 Throttle Grip

    Saitek Pro Flight Rudder Pedals

    TrackIR 5

     

  10. Thanks. I'm thinking the 4790K is going to have a hard time keeping up with the XTal resolutions (either one). If you can share some performance stats, that'd be great.

     

    Based on my experience, the limiting factor at higher resolutions is the GPU. The CPU only starts to really limit performance once you get into very high refresh rates (frame rates). Think 144hz+. We get nowhere near those FPS in DCS with VR.

     

    FYI. I'm still using a i7 5960X with a 2080ti GPU. I game on a 2K ultrawide Gsync panel that maxes out at 120 fps and an Oculus Rift. The GPU is still the limiting factor on my system especially with VR.

     

    PS. Instead of Nvidia getting rid of SLI, wish they would try to implement it with VR headsets. Imagine the jump in resolution and framerate of the headsets if we had a single 2080 or 3080 rendering for EACH EYE in the VR headsets. The GPU's are already synced up to run in SLI anyways, why not utilize a separate SLI GPU for each eye? It would be an insane jump in VR fidelity and performance.

  11. My biggest wish would be full fidelity su27/mig 29 (or any modern russian plane or helo in fact) even though there are lots of discussions regarding licensing and stuff like that and I get it would be hard having these modules.

    More realisticly I'd like the the uh60 or the ah64 for helos and the IAI Kfir for planes.

     

    This :thumbup:

     

    I don't main Russian aircraft but alot of ppl do. I honestly feel for the Russian aircraft fans in DCS that only have the Mig-21 amid the sea of NATO full fidelity aircraft.

  12. Graphics card by far.

    I'm running a i7 5960x @ 4.5ghz with a 2080ti. With a 120hz ultrawide monitor/ Oculus Rift. I can not achieve the framerate necessary to make an extra .5 ghz CPU matter in terms of gaming.

     

    I would need to be gaming somewhere between 144hz-200hz for that extra .5 ghz to be worth my while.

  13. I see what you mean...

     

    Money and availability is why a real f18 throttle is not possible hence the DIY project..

    Winwing, for same reason, it s a whole kit but I just wanted the thrust levers. Plus shipping plus custom taxes...

    They said they were looking for distributors in other continent but nothing on that part for the time...

     

    Aah if only thrustmaster did the throttles too....

     

    Amen. You'd think Thrustmaster would make an F/A-18 throttle to match the grip.

    I'm sure Virpil will make something eventually to match either the F/A-18 or F-16. I'd buy either...or both. After going 1-1 with the A-10C, it's all I want in my other few MAIN aircrafts.

    An F/A-18 throttle would cover alot of aircraft.

    F-16 throttle is niche to itself but so iconic and perfect.

  14. Transfer of serial keys was used back in the old days of the Star Force copy protection. Nowadays you link your ED account with your Steam account. See:

     

    https://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/support/faq/500/#3303126

     

     

    Correct, but I am talking about the new method of syncing Steam licenses with your DCS profile. I have my steam account linked to my DCS profile. Anytime I purchase a something on Steam I go to the DCS website, login to my account, profile, edit, and then press "get licenses". Should bind any new licenses from my Steam account to my DCS profile, but the Supercarrier isn't syncing/transfering. Thats what I was meant to say, not the old Star Force method.

  15. Been trying to transfer my Supercarrier license from Steam to the DCS standalone version for awhile now with no success. Will I be able to transfer/sync this license up with my DCS profile upon release?

     

    Over the last few years, I tend to buy many modules on Steam and transfer them to standalone, but this is my first time pre-ordering something on Steam rather than standalone so I'm unsure if this is normal.

  16. Worth the hype vs a WH stick ?

     

    This is entirely subjective. In my case, I want a replica HOTAS for everything so it was well worth it in my case. (just wish their were as many full fidelity throttle options)

    However, if your someone that values a "one size fits all" grip then their are grips with more broad functionality out there.

     

    The quality of the grip is extremely high. Where Thrustmaster skimps on their gimbals, they absolutely do not skimp on their grip materials. My only issue on the F-18 grip is they did not use the same metal trigger they used on the Warthog. The Warthog grip is the standard IMO. When you pick it up, feel the weight, and mash the buttons you will feel like your holding a grip someone stole out of an A-10 scrapyard. It's solid metal.

    The F-18 grip is a very rugged composite grip. It's a type of plastic, but it's tough and sturdy to the extent that I wouldn't be surprised if many thought it was of metal construction. It is lighter than the Warthog grip, but also far heavier than the new Virpil F-14 grip which feels much cheaper. (probably going to get flamed for saying that even though I use Virpil T-50 CM2 bases/gimbals and own the F-14 grip...but it's true when it comes to the grips). I have to adjust my stiffness by afew turns on the Virpil T-50 CM2 base when I switch between flying the A-10/F-16/F-18 and the F-14 bc with a 200mm extension the weight difference is even further exaggerated.

  17. Use the helmet (is prob what the devs are thinking how urgent this is)

     

    I have. When losing lock the HMD leaves HACQ and/or LHAQ (HMD boresight modes) as well. I'm constantly having to re-press the "sensor control switch" to re-enter the radar scan mode.

     

    It's weird. The radar stays in ACM mode, but instead of reverting back to boresight, vertical scan, HMD HACQ, etc. after losing lock it goes into a sweeping RWS scan in ACM mode which does nothing but give away your position. If the radar was put in silent mode after losing lock until I selected a radar mode I'd at least find some reasoning behind it.

     

    Basically, I'm just trying to confirm everybody else is experiencing the same thing, or if I have some weird bug with my install.

    33445495_afterlosinglockinHMDHACQmode.Revertsbacktosweepinginsteadofboresight.JPG.34f4b8a2e2c63c1d8e711e06b984aa42.JPG

  18. I have used a pretty wide variety of HOTAS setups and joysticks and even after about a year with my Warthog, I have yet to experience the buyers remorse or the issues that you are describing. I use my Warthog stick regularly and have yet to encounter any center slop.

     

    As far as cheaper setups like the T.16000 and CH being "superior"? I can't say I can get on board with that. the T.16000 stick (on its own) is a decent entry level stick but its basic layout, lack of controls, and only one hat switch make it less than ideal for HOTAS use. The CH is generally fine in terms of controls but the reliance on potentiometers as opposed to hall sensors will eventually cause accuracy issues by design.

     

    Again. To be clear. I am not a Warthog fanboy by any means. I have just used enough HOTAS setups to know that it is not even remotely as bad as you make it out to be. I have my own issues with its design and I do think it could stand to be a bit cheaper but in the broad scheme of things, it is a mid-range HOTAS that only really comes up short when compared to much, much more expensive setups.

     

    I agree. I started with a CH Fighterstick and CH Throttle, then I bought a Thrustmaster Warthog Stick/Throttle, then this past year I bought a Virpil CM2 base, some Foxx Mount deskmounts, and some stick extensions.

     

    My Thrustmaster stick and throttle probably have close to 2000 hours on them between DCS and BMS and both are still going strong. I still use my Thrustmaster gimbal as a desk mounted side-stick for the F-16. The Thrustmaster grips are also top notch. Especially if you want an affordable exact replica of the A-10C Warthog and F-16 stick (which can't be bought separately from the Warthog gimbal).

    The Virpil gimbal is truly better, but I have no remorse over buying my Warthog and I could still use it as a center stick w/o much complaint. The TM throttle is still my main. I've purchased a cheap plastic 3d printed afterburner detent for the push through afterburner and I have installed the TDC slew upgrade. Works without any issues.

     

    Personally, I'd buy the Warthog as a first serious stick and throttle. It is built to work with the DCS A-10C, and if you get more serious (or if your TM gimbal craps out) in the future you can easily purchase the Virpil Warbird base for 169.95 euros (at time of posting, conversion is $187.10 USD) which, by the way, is compatible with ALL the Thrustmaster grips. In essence, you will have an upgraded gimbal with no loss to your Thrustmaster grip's functionality. Not to mention you will still have the TM Throttle which you can make near perfect after filling down a piece of plastic (or buying a cheap afterburner detent online) and spending $50 on a slew upgrade that is easy to install and gives the Throttle xbox thumbstick level control over sensor slewing.

  19. Is it normal to have to re-select the ACM radar mode every time you lose track/lock? During a dogfight I constantly find myself having to re-select Vertical Scan mode. Seems like if the pilot selects an ACM radar mode it should stay in that mode until the pilot chooses something different. Coming back to DCS after being away for awhile. Never remember this being a thing with the Hornet.

  20. Hi,

     

    I'm torn between Virpil and VKB. Both companies make amazing gear and both are as expensive as they are hard to get.. I mainly fly the Tomcat and again - both manufacturers plan on releasing F-14 grips... Initially Virpil was in the lead due to compatibility with HOTAS Warthog grip (A-10 & now the F-16) but lately I heard some very positive opinions on the VKB and lost all my confidence!

     

    The plan was to get a Virpil VPC MongoosT-50CM2 Base, VPC Flightstick Extension - 200mm and VPC V.F.X Grip (F-14). Later, I was planning to buy the new Thrustmaster F/A-18 grip and own dedicated sticks for all modern aircraft that I fly. Then I read about VKB actually working together with Heatblur to produce their own Tomcat grip. Others also mentioned dry clutches in the VKB base but unfortunately I didn't get a chance to do any research on their pros and/or cons. Negatives were: inability to use the Warthog stick and the fact that as far as I know VKB don't sell their bases on their own.

     

    And so I was back to square one. Virpil or VKB... Could you please comment on this and help me make my mind up?

     

    Thanks

     

    Virpil gives way more options and also has a Tomcat grip, along with all their grips and Thrustmaster's grips.

     

    The VKB base is the best base at it's price point bc of the clutch. It's the only thing that sets it apart from Virpil, but if you google reviews on VKB bases and grips the quality of their grips comes into question. Just seems like you lose to much just to have the clutch the VKB base has.

  21. Lol! Good point! If I remember correctly they were “New Old Stock” or something and the RRP for the sensor on its own is usually £350 or something?

     

    How do you like your FSSB R3 Lightning? Noticed you are an owner. I've been considering one of these for a long time and the upcoming F-16 in DCS has reinvigorated my interest. Thinking about buying a new Warthog grip/stick just to put this base on it for the F-16 module.

    I've noticed the FSSB R3 Lightning is the primary consumer model now. Back when I looked last at the product it was the "FSSB R3 Warthog"....not sure what the differences are.

     

    P.S. The F-16 grip angle adapter for the Lightning looks amazing!

     

    http://realsimulator.com/html/fssb_r3_lighting.html

    AngleAdapter_823.jpg.0efed55d99f4544c7c3d35aded30ef2e.jpg

  22. I'd buy a game controller usb board and a big red button (just a switch, not usb or anything) and DIY it. it seems such a waste using a usb port for only one input.

     

    there are boards such as this one:

    https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Falcon-General-Purpose-Joystick-Controller/dp/B01A7A3ME8/ref=sr_1_6

     

    but I don't know if it's any good, or how cockpit builders are doing their things these days.

     

    but hey, that's just me. if you just want one button, why not?!

     

    I'd def do this if I had the know-how. I purchased an X-99e WS workstation motherboard with as many USB ports as I could find (10x rear IO USB3 ports and 4x front USB3 ports) when I built my PC just so I could go ham with peripherals. Honestly, I'll probably connect the button to a powered USB hub and call it a day.

  23. I use a couple of these: http://www.usbbutton.com/

     

    One for for the cockpit wall slap switch, and one for emergency jettison. Very easy to program and well priced as well.

     

    Excellent find Eddie! Looks much more affordable and comes with configuration software.

     

    Did you spring for the deluxe version with the stainless steel base or was the regular version with the plastic rugged enough to handle the pounding?

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