AeriaGloria

The “F” key toggles the Collective brake. The collective brake will disable the altitude hold. It has been a bug occasionally that the collective brake seems to accidentally be on sometimes and prevent use of the altitude hold. 

The MiG-29B non Warsaw pact version would mostly have differences for the player only in IFF. Instead of automatically interrogating anything on radar, you need to manually press an interrogate button on the stick that replaces the normal “unlock” button. And on 9.12B, in order to then unlock a target you need to press a button in front of the throttle. On 9.12/9.12A, this button instead is a switch that allows the radar to lock on to only enemies or also friendly IFF signals. 

So to the player, if we got 9.12B the only extra thing we would need to do is manually interrogate, and we wouldn’t be able to have it only lock onto enemy contacts or both enemy/friendly. 
 
This thread has some good posts on it, you’ll just need to scroll down a bit https://www.secretprojects.co.uk/threads/soviet-russian-iff.792/#post-9051

The Su-25 wasn’t meant to snipe vehicles with laser guided weapons, that was Mi-24 job. It was designed to use laser weapons on larger targets like structures and convoys or get close and take a chance and compensating with large warheads like Kh-29.

He can’t see if it’s dark, it’s a periscope, just like if you use binoculars. 
 
You can get around this with illumination rocket flares, having someone else use them, having someone drop illumination bombs, including artillery, etc  

Polish Raduga 9K113 manual. Honestly surprised ED knew unless it was a past service member that told them. I only came upon this Polish document by the luck and grace of another enthusiast who had physical access to the Krakow museum and knew of my interest 

In real life no, you are limited to what is set on the ground. 

It’s so that you can toggle if Petro automatically flares when it sees a missile 

First page 
 
it may seem harder then Mi-8, but it is superior. As Miki said, with AP only having 18% authority in Mi-24, you want it close to center as possible so it can dampen and stabilize attitude. If I trim at nose level, and go to -5 degrees pitch for cruise, my pitch AP will be stuck 100% trying to pitch me up, unable to have any authority left to dampen oscillations, rapid movements, or stabilize attitude. At this point it is merely offsetting your command, and the trimming ( or in Mi-8 case, re adjusting the AP dials to center AP deflection) will set the AP back to inertial so it can both hold your current attitude and have room to stabilize and dampen you 
It’s designed this way so that you can, easier them Mi-8, not only keep AP centered and have its most authority but also make it easier to fly. This way, if I fly at 150 kmh, I just trim nose and wings level and it will hold it. 
 
If I want the autopilot to hold me at cruise, or return to level when I release the controls on cruise, I just trim when flying level at 250-270 kmh, which is usually -5-7 degrees pitch down, and then AP will hold me there and return to level when I release stick pressure in any other attitude 
There are other reasons, as I mentioned, both Mi-8/24 are taking into account where the stick is when you trim so that the AP knows what you want “neutral” to be. The reason for this is that AP will deflect in same direction you move the stick to give you extra authority in pitch and roll. This can’t work if the AP is stuck at full deflection trying to return you to an attitude far away from where you are currently.
 
When trimmed and AP is near center, you will see especially roll channel deflect a lot with lateral stick movement and increase roll rate, but then return you to trimmed attitude when you neutralize stick. this way AP doesn’t fight you, but helps you as long as you have trimmed reasonably close to the flighty speed/attitude you are at.
Another example is, not only does pitch attitude need to decrease as you increase speed, but stick needs to be deflected forward to maintain this speed. Same with roll, you usually need slight right stick to hover (10-25%,), but often left stick to fly at cruise or above. If you don’t trim, but only turn on AP on the ground, the roll AP will be expecting your neutral stick position to be slightly right, and since it sees the stick deflected left, (which you need to maintain cruise speed or above), it will try to make you roll left. So trimming will re center it and solve al these problems for you 
 
Mi-8 is exact same in this respect, it’s just that since the attitude hold isn’t being reset, it is making it smoother for you to “fight” the autopilot stuck at 100% deflection during trimming 
So for example, you have three flight regimes you want to be primarily trim for. Hover, where you are usually 3.5 degree pitch nose up. 140-150 kmh, which is your best climb and loiter speed, where you would trim about nose level from there to 200 kmh. And above that you need nose down to maintain speed, to the point at 250-270 kmh cruise you are -5-7 degrees nose down, so you want to trim there as well. 
 
If you pitch attitude changes a lot from change in speed, say 3-5 degrees, or AP is close to maximum deflection, you want to trim 
It can be useful for other things, for example if I want to fly straight and takes my hands/eyes off, a short trim will make sure the AP attitude hold keeps my current attitude. If I want to stay in one place while I take my hands off the controls or eye off the screen, I can trim while turning, and the AP will keep me in that turn until I grab the controls again and trim level 
If you watch cockpit videos of Mi-8 or Ka-50, you will see that they are pressing trim near constantly. I find myself trimming alot when I’m level because I like to make my autopilot assist me as much as possible. No that you are aware of it, you might be able to get a good feel for it, for how it feels when AP is at 100% deflection limit and you are less stable, And how nice it is to trim to cruise and have it hold it, or trim in hover and suddenly have it help you stay there. 
 
TLDR: Imagine that trim button turns off AP when pushed and back on when released. Play with trimming level for a certain speed, and you might find the benefits 

No. However, if you look at weapon control panel, top left, you can switch range selection from auto to manual. When you do that, the lights will turn off, but your CCIP will be stuck at the range selected until you switch it back or manually change the range 

Is your “control helper” in settings on? 

1. This is a behavior known by the Russians as “Podkhvaht” or “pick up.” It is a blend of two things 
A. Mushing: this is what happens when a helicopter at high speed experiences high enough G load that AOA becomes positive, and up flow of air through the rotor causes it to stall, causing RBS like symptoms as you lose control and thrust 
B. The wing is installed at 19 degree angle. Not coincidentally, the wing also stalls at 19-20 degrees. This means almost any positive AOA will stall the wing. The wing is also quite a distance behind the rotor mast and center of gravity (CG), this means that the lift it creates (up to 25% in cruise) also causes a pitch down moment. It also means that any payload on the wing moves CG back, which increases AOA and thus wing lift. This is one reason that loading weight on the pylons has so little effect on it in cruise.
So when increase G load between 1.4-1.8 G, at some point the Angle of Attack will transition from above your nose to below, your rotor will get up flow and begins to stall and your wing is also stalling. 
The first part of the rotor to stall is the right side, causing a pitch up. The wing being behind the CG/rotor, is causing a lot of pitch down force with its almost 3,000 kg of lift. Now that it’s stalling, suddenly the force pitching the nose down goes away and makes the pitch up worse. 
 
So it’s a cascading intermeshing of issues, that all happen to be caused at around the same time. 
 
There are three ways to recover or prevent this happening! 
 
A. this always happens at a certain G-load, I will post the G chart, a good rule of thumb at medium weights and altitudes is don’t exceed 1.6-1.8 G. If in a level turn, this is around 50-55 degree bank 
B. Decrease collective pitch 1-3 degrees. This will un stall the rotor. You might be surprised how fast it can snap back after just 1-3 degrees less collective. 
 
C. Full stick forward! 
 
Also. If your are nearing the ground, decrease roll angle during recovery. The less your bank angle, the less altitude you lose while this happens 
Also. Manual recommends to increase G to desired load in a turn over the course of 2-3 seconds. This makes a big difference for me 
There is a real G chart for this, but has a huge margin of safety for speed. I usually ignore the speed restrictions, it will always happen at the same G, but the faster you are the more violent it will be. You can get a really good feel for this by doing 50-55 degree angle bank turns. In my experience, weight, altitude, and collective decide what your max G will be
There is dot in the G meter at 1.5 G, it is good reference for minimum G you can sustain at all altitudes below about 2,000m. I made my own color coded picture with yellow/red as danger zones 
Also: the effect of the entire podkhvaht/pick up was made smoother in a patch recently 
 
2. Your second issue, tail authority 
My first suggestion if you you are not overweight or at too high altitude, is watch your Yaw AP. 
 
Your AP can add/subtract anywhere from 18-118% authority, and trim you without your consent. Check if you have an option “Pedal auto move” on. You want to have it off. Turning it off means that if Yaw AP runs out of its 18% authority, it will trim your pedals to use as much authority as it needs. Having it on means that pedals will trim you anytime heading moves more then 7.5 degrees from the heading it’s trying to hold 
I tell most new flyers to keep Yaw AP off. And to only play with it once you are ready to play with the microswitch and all the microswitch options the change the Yaw AP from heading hold to dampening. If you are interested, let me know. I have also written large guides for weapons and autopilot and translated an aerodynamic manual for it. 

I would personally prefer a 9.12S/9.13S add-on. Make a pure 9.13 and call it Aerges level 3 plane add on 

No, sorry

While it is emergency procedure for lost generators, it is only for 30-60 minute RTB using battery and APU, since each last only 30 minutes 
If you look in the Cold War museum manual at what is powered by the generators, and what can be powered by battery/APU gen with everything turned on, you will see that batttery/APU gen cannot cover every thing that the huge generators can. 
 
For example gyroscopes, they need the high voltage of the 240 VAC 400 hz generators. Nothing else can do this. So you cannot turn them off if you have generator failure. You just have to fly without them 
This line from it “The DC system and AC inverters can be operated on the ground with the main engines shut down using the APU starter / generator.” the inverter turns AC to DC, so there is still no proper full powered AC source with just battery and APU gen 
It also says that in emergency mode, which usually kicks in automatically, only IFF/radar alt/RWR/jammer/vibration/fuel gauge/red lights/PTIT are powered 
However, AP depends on gyros. Just reading it, it says that 36 VAC 3-phase transformers give the gyro 1 power. And that in emergency mode (PT-125 inverter on) gyro 2 is given power. So maybe try switching the gyro selection from vertical gyro 1 to vertical gyro 2 
However, AP still needs 36 VAC at 400 hz to operate. So the 115 VAC transformer is imperative here
Official instructions for double generator failure are  
“-set switches of both generators, rectifiers and transformers to the OFF position;
-open the caps and set switches PT-750A and PT-125U of the inverters to the ON position;
-Select selector switches TRANSFORMER -115V, TRANSFORMER 36V, PRESS GAUGE XFMR to the STBY position;
-Switch oťf all electric power consumers which are not required under given circumstances; in all cases' the controi instruments ťor power plant, fuel gage, vertical gyro No. 1 with roll and pitch indicator shall remain switched on, as well as the heating of LFI pitot tube at an outside air temperature oť 5.' C and lower.” 
start the AI.9B engine (it is allowed up to an altitude of 4,000 m), set switches APU GEN and POWER FROM BATT to the ON position and check voltage in the helicopter onboard power system as per voltmeter. Discontinue tlre mission and perťorm landing on own airfield, the nearest airfield or a selected landing pad proceeding from the 30-min maximum time of continuous operation of AI-9B APU;………
Power reserve oť the batteries is enough to energize the consumers connected to battery bus for about 9 min of flight (for I min - with search-and-landing light and taxiing light turned on).

Yes

No, just not designed for night flying. 
 
Perhaps the bright - sim switch by the top of the switches by your left shoulder, it is next to buttons to make Ri-65 Rita repeat or test herself. Those usually dim or brighten warning lights slightly, but don’t think it would affect things 
 
As you said, you would have to turn the whole thing off. I’m sure in reality they would need to use stickers or replace the light with a filter, but the amtough answer is whe it was designed in 1972-1974, it was simply not made for night ops 

Open beta or stable? There was a bug that was fixed, but not sure stable is updated to the build with the patch 

Yes you are just limited 
1. You have NVG, set them to lowest gain, use cockpit lights at lowest setting, and if needed set auto range to manual source so that ASP-17V doesn’t light up. NVG isn’t so useful for targeting, but it is good for orientation 
2. You have illumination rockets. They will illuminate about 3.5 km away, and take 7.7 seconds of flight before they deploy the flare and 1 second to light the deployed flare. You want to fire around 10-12 degrees up at low altitude (0-250m), 5 degrees around 300m, and level at around 500-600m. It is most useful to have a wingmen use them while you attack, but you can also have your periscope open, fire illumination rockets then go back to MSL/OFF so you can fire ATGM as soon as they light up. If not just open periscope as soon as you fire the flares so that the 10 seconds for gyros to spin up are used while the flare is flying 7.7 seconds and the 1 second it takes to release and light the flare at the end of its 3.5 km journey. They will only light up for 35 seconds, and you may need to fire early and fire several in sequence until you get them perfectly over the target. If needed you can have illumination rockets on one side and regular rockets on the other and switch sides 
3. Full moon night is easiest. New moon is very difficult. It’s a bit gamey but you can also increase gamma to make it easier to see. Use your landing and taxi lights for takeoff and landing! Just turn them off while flying becuase it makes it easier for AI to spot you 
4. the only targets you can really attack are either pre planned targets, or targets that are shooting at you with tracers. Once you’ve blown up one target in the area, it gets easier using its fire and smoke as a reference 
It’s not easy or made for night, but using the above methods and other things you can be somewhat effective at night in the right situations 

If VRS usually occurs at 5 m/s, that is only 18 kmh. By the time the hover speed indicator shows max right translation, you are probably VRSing the tail rotor. 
 
Would be great If it was published or mentioned in the aerodynamic manual, but for reference the wind speed limit for wind coming from the right is 10 m/s, 36 kmh. 

The top chart is very symmetrical weapon loading, for S-24 compatibility for example, go from S-24 vertically/horizontally (to it choice) until it intersects with the weapon you desire to load it with. 
For example where S-24 and GUV intersect, it says in orange “Only GUV.”
You can notice that, GUV pods only work with other GUV pods. They are not compatible with anything else on the 5 main pylons. 
 
The outer wingtip pylons that are only for ATGM are compatible with anything, loadout restrictions only apply to pylons 1-4 that are hanging under the wing. 
 
UB-32 and bombs have similar restrictions, becuase UB pods use a bomb rack. This is why S-8 pods have less restrictions. S-13 doesn’t work with anything 

You can branch out from pre set loadout to a certain degree, but you will need to be aware of these restrictions 
 
These charts are from the English quick start guide, and there is an English translation of the Russian guide on user files that has some more information also 

DCS does simulation of weights, moments of inertia and torque moments very well 
 
In Mi-24 case, having 4x rocket pods may have a 2-3% impact on speed/efficiency. It would be larger, but often having weight on the wings improves speed/efficiency at cruise speeds. 
 
This is becuase the wings are behind the center of gravity/main rotor mast significantly, so any weight added to them moves CG back and causes a more nose up position. More nose up means more wing AOA/lift, and with your wing helping you out more you need less collective 
 
You will notice the release of weight during firing, pitching to it nose down, on rockets it makes recoil even worse as you are getting rid of weight behind the CG 
Other than that, you have to be very careful of your weight and your limits becuase of that

Hey I watched the track and flew myself. Not sure what you were seeing. 
 
When you flew heading 006, the roll channel was giving left output trying to get you back to heading 000. You also had 2 degrees of left drift at the time so the deflection was small. 
After trimming and returning to 000, the roll channel Now went close to 0, as when the roll channel is neutral is when route mode is telling you “on desired heading per route mode.” I think you were overpowering it when you were at 006. After the trim press the stick was slightly deflected more towards the left than before pressing trim. 
 
In such a case; the manual recommends using the trim hat until roll channel is center. I have pictures but they are too big too send, but you can see it by seeing the roll channel deflection after pressing route and how the stick position changes after trim 
I think that’s caused by the autopilot only using proportional/integrative functions and not derivative. If it had derivative, it would know to give more deflection if it wasn’t on the selected heading. But with just proportional and/or integrative functions, it only knows to give output proportional to distance from selected heading/attitude (proportional), and to fight changes in angular rate over time (integrative) 

Do this happen in beginning of the flight? It is possible to break the sight by rolling more then 25-30 degrees, and will cause the sight gyros to not point correctly 

Is this in multi crew? Currently it’s a fixed bug and will be in next patch, but only happens in multi crew 

I have a guide that will explain entire system if you are interested, but if it doesn’t work here are some possibilities 
- battle damage, doppler being shot will mean hover/route mode won’t work since they need doppler 
-doppler has +/-30 degree bank limits and +/-7 degree pitch limits. Exceed those and system will not turn on or turn off if already on 
When automatically shut off, it will continue the last input until you press the “OFF” button, so make sure you do that after using it as well. Pressing it will also reset AP channels Like trim button 
It corrects for drift from wind, so when you are on correct course you will see two things 
1. Heading equals set heading +/- drift angle 
2. Roll channel of AP will be centered