AeriaGloria

I mention in the video that turning down the gain won’t affect the targets. So you can turn the gain pretty much all the way down and still see targets perfectly. 
 
The hardest targets (MiG-21, F-16) should be seen about 8 km from front and 15 km from back. F-14/15 can be seen about 15 km in front and nearly 30 km behind (in mil power.) F-18 is sort of between the two. But I’ve got 25 km behind it. 
 
Remember from the video it’s not stabilized and looks +/-15 degrees vertically and 30 degrees to each side horizontally 

It takes practice but you’ll get there. Hold lock for 1.5 seconds. You can always vertical scan lock as well and switch to IRST search if you want the benefits of IRST search in coop.,
You’ll get there. Do a mission with lots of targets like F-14/15 that won’t attack you (you could select civil plane.)

There is engine relight switch, but not yet implemented. It is for emergencies anyways as engines should re start on their own if all things work properly. 

The plan was to have it range like a circle to the targets wingspan apparently. But the plan never went through and you were stuck using target size dial with funnel. 
 
This is MiG-29B tech manual right? 

You can read all about it in my post here 
If you only move coop switch you only get IRST picking up lost radar lock. 
 
If you move radar switch from ILLUM to dummy when using the IRST modes ( IRST search/IRST vertical scan/opt/helmet) you get all the other functions I talk about in the post. Let me know if you have questions 
 

No. Unless Ralt has a circuit breaker to turn off

It’s not a button. It’s simply a bind to simulate pressing through the AOA limit which takes about 17 kg of force. 

That’s what the rhombus (diamond) is for. To show you the direction and magnitude of antenna movement. It will cover target when in the middle 

This is normal for low to medium altitude and medium to high speeds, and is made worse the higher your engine setting 
It just has low negative elevator deflection, stick moves half as far away from you as towards you. 
 
The manual has many warnings that with enough weight on wings, you might not be able to full stop pitch up with stick. 
 
And that increasing throttle causes pitch up. 
 
So when it happens, decrease throttle, hold trim, or slow down 

Let’s say you mix R-27R and R-27T. You also have R-73. 
 
Your weapon selector has two positions, inboard and outboard. How do you select 27R or 27T? 
 
MiG-23 has a solution to this ( fire the R first) becuase it was designed for it, MiG-29 wasn’t 

Not symbology no, sorry

The “F” key toggles the Collective brake. The collective brake will disable the altitude hold. It has been a bug occasionally that the collective brake seems to accidentally be on sometimes and prevent use of the altitude hold. 

The MiG-29B non Warsaw pact version would mostly have differences for the player only in IFF. Instead of automatically interrogating anything on radar, you need to manually press an interrogate button on the stick that replaces the normal “unlock” button. And on 9.12B, in order to then unlock a target you need to press a button in front of the throttle. On 9.12/9.12A, this button instead is a switch that allows the radar to lock on to only enemies or also friendly IFF signals. 

So to the player, if we got 9.12B the only extra thing we would need to do is manually interrogate, and we wouldn’t be able to have it only lock onto enemy contacts or both enemy/friendly. 
 
This thread has some good posts on it, you’ll just need to scroll down a bit https://www.secretprojects.co.uk/threads/soviet-russian-iff.792/#post-9051

The Su-25 wasn’t meant to snipe vehicles with laser guided weapons, that was Mi-24 job. It was designed to use laser weapons on larger targets like structures and convoys or get close and take a chance and compensating with large warheads like Kh-29.

He can’t see if it’s dark, it’s a periscope, just like if you use binoculars. 
 
You can get around this with illumination rocket flares, having someone else use them, having someone drop illumination bombs, including artillery, etc  

Polish Raduga 9K113 manual. Honestly surprised ED knew unless it was a past service member that told them. I only came upon this Polish document by the luck and grace of another enthusiast who had physical access to the Krakow museum and knew of my interest 

In real life no, you are limited to what is set on the ground. 

It’s so that you can toggle if Petro automatically flares when it sees a missile 

First page 
 
it may seem harder then Mi-8, but it is superior. As Miki said, with AP only having 18% authority in Mi-24, you want it close to center as possible so it can dampen and stabilize attitude. If I trim at nose level, and go to -5 degrees pitch for cruise, my pitch AP will be stuck 100% trying to pitch me up, unable to have any authority left to dampen oscillations, rapid movements, or stabilize attitude. At this point it is merely offsetting your command, and the trimming ( or in Mi-8 case, re adjusting the AP dials to center AP deflection) will set the AP back to inertial so it can both hold your current attitude and have room to stabilize and dampen you 
It’s designed this way so that you can, easier them Mi-8, not only keep AP centered and have its most authority but also make it easier to fly. This way, if I fly at 150 kmh, I just trim nose and wings level and it will hold it. 
 
If I want the autopilot to hold me at cruise, or return to level when I release the controls on cruise, I just trim when flying level at 250-270 kmh, which is usually -5-7 degrees pitch down, and then AP will hold me there and return to level when I release stick pressure in any other attitude 
There are other reasons, as I mentioned, both Mi-8/24 are taking into account where the stick is when you trim so that the AP knows what you want “neutral” to be. The reason for this is that AP will deflect in same direction you move the stick to give you extra authority in pitch and roll. This can’t work if the AP is stuck at full deflection trying to return you to an attitude far away from where you are currently.
 
When trimmed and AP is near center, you will see especially roll channel deflect a lot with lateral stick movement and increase roll rate, but then return you to trimmed attitude when you neutralize stick. this way AP doesn’t fight you, but helps you as long as you have trimmed reasonably close to the flighty speed/attitude you are at.
Another example is, not only does pitch attitude need to decrease as you increase speed, but stick needs to be deflected forward to maintain this speed. Same with roll, you usually need slight right stick to hover (10-25%,), but often left stick to fly at cruise or above. If you don’t trim, but only turn on AP on the ground, the roll AP will be expecting your neutral stick position to be slightly right, and since it sees the stick deflected left, (which you need to maintain cruise speed or above), it will try to make you roll left. So trimming will re center it and solve al these problems for you 
 
Mi-8 is exact same in this respect, it’s just that since the attitude hold isn’t being reset, it is making it smoother for you to “fight” the autopilot stuck at 100% deflection during trimming 
So for example, you have three flight regimes you want to be primarily trim for. Hover, where you are usually 3.5 degree pitch nose up. 140-150 kmh, which is your best climb and loiter speed, where you would trim about nose level from there to 200 kmh. And above that you need nose down to maintain speed, to the point at 250-270 kmh cruise you are -5-7 degrees nose down, so you want to trim there as well. 
 
If you pitch attitude changes a lot from change in speed, say 3-5 degrees, or AP is close to maximum deflection, you want to trim 
It can be useful for other things, for example if I want to fly straight and takes my hands/eyes off, a short trim will make sure the AP attitude hold keeps my current attitude. If I want to stay in one place while I take my hands off the controls or eye off the screen, I can trim while turning, and the AP will keep me in that turn until I grab the controls again and trim level 
If you watch cockpit videos of Mi-8 or Ka-50, you will see that they are pressing trim near constantly. I find myself trimming alot when I’m level because I like to make my autopilot assist me as much as possible. No that you are aware of it, you might be able to get a good feel for it, for how it feels when AP is at 100% deflection limit and you are less stable, And how nice it is to trim to cruise and have it hold it, or trim in hover and suddenly have it help you stay there. 
 
TLDR: Imagine that trim button turns off AP when pushed and back on when released. Play with trimming level for a certain speed, and you might find the benefits 

No. However, if you look at weapon control panel, top left, you can switch range selection from auto to manual. When you do that, the lights will turn off, but your CCIP will be stuck at the range selected until you switch it back or manually change the range 

Is your “control helper” in settings on? 

1. This is a behavior known by the Russians as “Podkhvaht” or “pick up.” It is a blend of two things 
A. Mushing: this is what happens when a helicopter at high speed experiences high enough G load that AOA becomes positive, and up flow of air through the rotor causes it to stall, causing RBS like symptoms as you lose control and thrust 
B. The wing is installed at 19 degree angle. Not coincidentally, the wing also stalls at 19-20 degrees. This means almost any positive AOA will stall the wing. The wing is also quite a distance behind the rotor mast and center of gravity (CG), this means that the lift it creates (up to 25% in cruise) also causes a pitch down moment. It also means that any payload on the wing moves CG back, which increases AOA and thus wing lift. This is one reason that loading weight on the pylons has so little effect on it in cruise.
So when increase G load between 1.4-1.8 G, at some point the Angle of Attack will transition from above your nose to below, your rotor will get up flow and begins to stall and your wing is also stalling. 
The first part of the rotor to stall is the right side, causing a pitch up. The wing being behind the CG/rotor, is causing a lot of pitch down force with its almost 3,000 kg of lift. Now that it’s stalling, suddenly the force pitching the nose down goes away and makes the pitch up worse. 
 
So it’s a cascading intermeshing of issues, that all happen to be caused at around the same time. 
 
There are three ways to recover or prevent this happening! 
 
A. this always happens at a certain G-load, I will post the G chart, a good rule of thumb at medium weights and altitudes is don’t exceed 1.6-1.8 G. If in a level turn, this is around 50-55 degree bank 
B. Decrease collective pitch 1-3 degrees. This will un stall the rotor. You might be surprised how fast it can snap back after just 1-3 degrees less collective. 
 
C. Full stick forward! 
 
Also. If your are nearing the ground, decrease roll angle during recovery. The less your bank angle, the less altitude you lose while this happens 
Also. Manual recommends to increase G to desired load in a turn over the course of 2-3 seconds. This makes a big difference for me 
There is a real G chart for this, but has a huge margin of safety for speed. I usually ignore the speed restrictions, it will always happen at the same G, but the faster you are the more violent it will be. You can get a really good feel for this by doing 50-55 degree angle bank turns. In my experience, weight, altitude, and collective decide what your max G will be
There is dot in the G meter at 1.5 G, it is good reference for minimum G you can sustain at all altitudes below about 2,000m. I made my own color coded picture with yellow/red as danger zones 
Also: the effect of the entire podkhvaht/pick up was made smoother in a patch recently 
 
2. Your second issue, tail authority 
My first suggestion if you you are not overweight or at too high altitude, is watch your Yaw AP. 
 
Your AP can add/subtract anywhere from 18-118% authority, and trim you without your consent. Check if you have an option “Pedal auto move” on. You want to have it off. Turning it off means that if Yaw AP runs out of its 18% authority, it will trim your pedals to use as much authority as it needs. Having it on means that pedals will trim you anytime heading moves more then 7.5 degrees from the heading it’s trying to hold 
I tell most new flyers to keep Yaw AP off. And to only play with it once you are ready to play with the microswitch and all the microswitch options the change the Yaw AP from heading hold to dampening. If you are interested, let me know. I have also written large guides for weapons and autopilot and translated an aerodynamic manual for it. 

I would personally prefer a 9.12S/9.13S add-on. Make a pure 9.13 and call it Aerges level 3 plane add on 

No, sorry

While it is emergency procedure for lost generators, it is only for 30-60 minute RTB using battery and APU, since each last only 30 minutes 
If you look in the Cold War museum manual at what is powered by the generators, and what can be powered by battery/APU gen with everything turned on, you will see that batttery/APU gen cannot cover every thing that the huge generators can. 
 
For example gyroscopes, they need the high voltage of the 240 VAC 400 hz generators. Nothing else can do this. So you cannot turn them off if you have generator failure. You just have to fly without them 
This line from it “The DC system and AC inverters can be operated on the ground with the main engines shut down using the APU starter / generator.” the inverter turns AC to DC, so there is still no proper full powered AC source with just battery and APU gen 
It also says that in emergency mode, which usually kicks in automatically, only IFF/radar alt/RWR/jammer/vibration/fuel gauge/red lights/PTIT are powered 
However, AP depends on gyros. Just reading it, it says that 36 VAC 3-phase transformers give the gyro 1 power. And that in emergency mode (PT-125 inverter on) gyro 2 is given power. So maybe try switching the gyro selection from vertical gyro 1 to vertical gyro 2 
However, AP still needs 36 VAC at 400 hz to operate. So the 115 VAC transformer is imperative here
Official instructions for double generator failure are  
“-set switches of both generators, rectifiers and transformers to the OFF position;
-open the caps and set switches PT-750A and PT-125U of the inverters to the ON position;
-Select selector switches TRANSFORMER -115V, TRANSFORMER 36V, PRESS GAUGE XFMR to the STBY position;
-Switch oťf all electric power consumers which are not required under given circumstances; in all cases' the controi instruments ťor power plant, fuel gage, vertical gyro No. 1 with roll and pitch indicator shall remain switched on, as well as the heating of LFI pitot tube at an outside air temperature oť 5.' C and lower.” 
start the AI.9B engine (it is allowed up to an altitude of 4,000 m), set switches APU GEN and POWER FROM BATT to the ON position and check voltage in the helicopter onboard power system as per voltmeter. Discontinue tlre mission and perťorm landing on own airfield, the nearest airfield or a selected landing pad proceeding from the 30-min maximum time of continuous operation of AI-9B APU;………
Power reserve oť the batteries is enough to energize the consumers connected to battery bus for about 9 min of flight (for I min - with search-and-landing light and taxiing light turned on).

Yes