brydling

I am getting jealous! What drawings are you using? :-)

Feel free to ask whenever you want to know.

Hehe :) I helped Red getting his to work. That's why I know. It's the same for the Viggens FLI37 ADI.

For the ARU-2B, the synchro inputs are 11.8 Vac 400 Hz. The power inputs are 115 Vac 400 Hz.

That was a very expensive one. Isn't there some cheaper alternative out there? Looks like this one has features that you won't need.

Nice caution panel! I think that's the first panel I will make, because it looks good and involves some programming :-) How will you control the lights?

Haha thanks for the support guys! About the encoder support.. Find me a programmer with a B256A13 that would like to have encoder support and would like to try doing it himself. I will be happy to give him the source code so that he can fix it ;-) I would gladly repay the cost of the board to that programmer once it's finished and working :-) So it is you who are Duckling :-) Didn't make the connection until now. I have already responded to your e-mails :-) /Niclas

Hi Avi! Interesting with a Mustang pit! I look forward to follow the progress :-) Please send the order through e-mail as described in the first post of this thread. Ah, any interesting reason for relocation? :-) Is it you who have ordered two boards by e-mail earlier? The e-mail address looked very similar to your username here on the forum, so I automatically thought it was you :-) About doing one more batch when I get settled down. I don't think that will be necessary for you to get it, because I have a good stock on boards now :-) I don't think I will run out of them before summer. Thanks for your support guys!

I will be moving soon and thus unable to produce the B256A13 for some weeks. If anyone is planning on placing an order and would like to receive it before the end of april, please do it asap. Niclas

I will be moving soon and thus unable to produce the B256A13 for some weeks. If anyone is planning on placing an order and would like to receive it before the end of april, please do it asap. Niclas

Thanks Mark! I'm glad you like it! /Niclas

You have? I can't find it. I'm sending you a PM.

I have decided to make another batch, so there are more B256A13's to buy! :-) /Niclas

Due to the interest I have decided to make another batch. For more info and ordering instructions see the "official" B256A13 thread in the For Sale forum. /Niclas

The current batch is almost sold out. Any point of ordering another one? See thread in the For Sale forum. /brydling

So do you! :)

Hi, Thanks for the nice comments :) Hehe, I think I will enjoy working with the Gripen simulators though, if I get the job ;) Thank you!

Hi Håkan! Actually I got an e-mail when the package arrived at your post office and another e-mail when you picked it up. The Swedish Postal Service is watching you! ;) I also just noticed that I forgot to answer your e-mail where you asked if the package would come to your mailbox or to your post office. Sorry about that. I guess you have got that one answered now :) Good luck with the soldering! Just contact me if there is any trouble! /Niclas

Hi Ganon! I have received your money! Sorry if I forgot to tell you, I always send a confirmation right away but your order came in a PM and not on e-mail, so I missed it :) I will assemble your board tomorrow and send it on monday (tomorrow is holiday in Sweden). Thanks!

Thank you Ganon! I will send you a PM. Happy new year! Hi Lucas, I don't know my stock for sure because I'm not at home ATM, but I think it is about 8 pcs. With an ON-ON switch as you have, you should wire only two of the three pins to save inputs on the board. Then you have to edit a LUA-script as described in this great video by Tigershark: . The syntax of the file has changed with the latest patch, so you can't write exactly as Tiger does in the video, but watch it to get the general concept. The exact syntax is then found here. The exact wiring is: A wire from one of the inputs on the board (for example I1) to the anode of a diode. A wire from the diode's cathode to one of the inputs on the switch (usually one of the uttermost pins). I suggest that you solder the diode's cathode directly to the switch instead of using an actual wire in between. A wire from the switch's common pin (usually the one in the middle) to the common on the board corresponding to the input used (in the case of input I1, C1 is the common to use). If you have not read the manual, I recommend you to look at the examples in it. Niclas

Hi Avi! I have several boards ready. I have not started playing with support for rotary encoders yet. That may take a while. Maybe I will move to another city and start working with real military flight simulators in february. If I decide to do that, I will be busy until I have got used to the new life :) Merry Christmas to you all! Niclas

Thank you for your input!

You could possibly extract it directly from the simulators RAM ;) Guess it would take some time to find the right address though :D FSUIPC did it that way with FS9.

Ah, ok. Is it impossible to access the display digits from Lua?

It does sound possible but it would probably take some time. Isn't it possible to change the Lua-script to also send flares remaining?