Advice for new home cockpit builders

[TK-421]

Hello,

I have been browsing through a few of the topcis through here and this looks like a lot of fun. My airframe of choice is the MiG-21 because it should be pretty simple. 

My first plan is to experiment with an old cheap thrustmaster hotas I have lying around, I was going to pull it apart and replace the buttons with ON-OFF switches. I figured this would be easier as it already has the software support built in. 

My next project was going to be figuring out how to do multiple position dials and 3 position switches, such as the pylon selector in the MiG-21 or the IR-Neutral-SAR switch. 

I was hoping you guys could advise me on the most suitable program for beginners, I saw that DCS-BIOS seems to be popular, but it also has been around since 2015. As of 2022 is this still the go to program for this type of project or is there another program you would recommend?

Cheers! 

[Rockeyes]

If this is your first pit I personally don't think you can go far wrong starting with something like a Bodnar board, a panel and some switches.

https://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=180&zenid=ee188672758fed8a3698be8ec8cc8931

[No1sonuk]

The Bodnar boards are a good option for input only.  They present themselves to the PC as a game controller, so they'll work with any game you can change the controller binds with, AND you can "cross-bind" them within DCS for different modules.

If you choose the DCS-BIOS route, which can give you gauge outputs, etc. I highly recommend the "Flight Panels Fork".
It may seem to be older than the easier-to-connect "Hub" version, but Hub hasn't been properly updated for years.  The Flight Panels fork doesn't have the fancy console for connecting your Arduinos, but it is actively bug-fixed and updated - it already has the early access AH-64 included.
https://github.com/DCSFlightpanels

IIRC, the Flight Panels fork was developed to make use of the Saitek units, but the basic DCS-BIOS and Arduino library work on their own.

THE biggest thing to remember, though, is that you don't have to use just one scheme.  Use what's needed for the job.
e.g. The Arduino Leonardo can be run as a game controller type input device AND run DCS-BIOS for light, etc. output at the same time - I've tested it. 

Edited March 23, 2022 by No1sonuk

[No1sonuk]

A 3-position switch can be handled in a couple of ways.

1) 
Use any Arduino with the corresponding DCS-BIOS code line with a SPDT, centre-off switch.
e.g.  DcsBios::Switch3Pos irSarNeu("IR_SAR_NEU", PIN_A, PIN_B);

2)
If there are 3 individual binds in the DCS controls bindings, you can do a more complicated setup using an Arduino Leonardo or Pro micro.
In this case, you can read the switch using the 2 inputs, then send "joystick button" presses to the computer depending on the 3 switch positions.

NOTE 1: For this to work, the Arduino has to have the 32u4 processor.  An Uno or Nano won't work properly, if at all.
NOTE 2: A Bodnar board could do this if the switch has only two positions.  There's no "centre off" option.

Why you would chose one method over the other depends on how the control behaves in-game and how you want to use it or implement it in your physical cockpit.
e.g. the Mosquito bomb doors, flaps, and landing gear levers auto reset at the end of their function's travel.  The DCS-BIOS lines won't allow a physical switch to be reset, so it holds the lever in-game too.
AND, the #2 method can be re-bound to other modules or games.

Edited March 23, 2022 by No1sonuk

[TK-421]

Thanks for the info! I like the idea of that Bodnar board, seems fairly simple. I think I might have to use DCS-BIOS to figure out this dial. It is for selecting the pylons and there is something like 11 options on the dial. DCS recognises it and "next" or "previous" to cycle through. 

I also only fly in VR, so I do not need outputs for dials or monitors, just physical things I can reach out and touch. 

Edited March 24, 2022 by TK-421

[No1sonuk]

I'm not aware of a 13-way rotary switch.

[TK-421]

I found this 11 position rotary switch for it. The only issue is that it isn't 360 degrees like the real one, but that isn't much of a problem.