Double input required

[SrSosio]

Hey there. This is probably a known thing and easy fix, but I've noticed that the TM warthog throttle sometimes require double input in order to register a click. What I mean by this is for example to turn off the APU switch, I have to turn it off, then on again and off one more time so the game registers it. Or move the throttle to idle, back to off and back to idle to register the idle position. 

Do you know why is that and how to fix it? 

Thanks 

[rob10]

22 hours ago, SrSosio said:

Hey there. This is probably a known thing and easy fix, but I've noticed that the TM warthog throttle sometimes require double input in order to register a click. What I mean by this is for example to turn off the APU switch, I have to turn it off, then on again and off one more time so the game registers it. Or move the throttle to idle, back to off and back to idle to register the idle position. 

Do you know why is that and how to fix it? 

Thanks 

Yes.  The TM only send a signal when clicking one direction.  In some cases there is an "2 pos switch" in the description usually with <> between the positions and under category "special for Joystick" which will do what you want.  For a lot of bindings this option doesn't exist, and years ago you had to edit lua files to overcome this limitation.  Now you just need to use the "ON' and "OFF" bindings for the switch.  Use the actual ON click for the ON binding and for the OFF binding double click on that and use the dropdown in the KEY/BUTTON box and select the OFF version for the button (i.e. use button 10 for on, then "button 10 off" from the dropdown for the off binding).
This is primarily a limitation of the TM hardware these days.  Most others will send a signal in both the "ON" and "OFF" (and middle if they have that) states. 

[SrSosio]

But there isn't that option in the warthog. For instance, the APU separate options for Off and Start are disabled, and you are left only with the option OFF <> Start (Off else Start).

Moreover, there's not even an Idle option for the throttles:

[MAXsenna]

But there isn't that option in the warthog. For instance, the APU separate options for Off and Start are disabled, and you are left only with the option OFF <> Start (Off else Start).
Moreover, there's not even an Idle option for the throttles:

The Warthog is mapped automatically to all correct switches, and according to your screens all seems correct.
APU on-off is the correct binding as the Warthog has two and three position switches where only one side is electrically connected. Two sides for 3 position switches of course.
Throttles all the way back, not in cut-off, is idle. You can even see button 29 and 30 are correctly bound. When you move the throttles out of cut off, you are in idle.
Somewhere in the general settings, there is an option called sync with HOTAS at mission start. Test it both on and off you see if your experience gets better.

Sent from my SM-A536B using Tapatalk

[SrSosio]

Thank you @MAXsenna. I do have the option enabled:

But I'm still facing missing readouts that make me have to go back and forth the switch to read the actual position. Specially annoying with the flaps and the airbrakes.

[MAXsenna]

Thank you @MAXsenna. I do have the option enabled:

But I'm still facing missing readouts that make me have to go back and forth the switch to read the actual position. Specially annoying with the flaps and the airbrakes.

That's very strange. I've never had issues, and since the Warthog is so popular, one would think a lot more users would have reported similar issues. What happens if you move the switches slowly? I know a couple of other modules, like the F1, have issues if one moves the flap lever too fast.

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[SrSosio]

I don't think doing it slowly will make a difference. Latching switches have that phenomenon where nothing is happening, then at some point you apply enough force that it latches into the new position immediately. I don't remember it, but it has a name. I don't know, it may as well just be a faulty one. 

I'm tempted to gut it and replace all the electronics with my own. I'm already familiar with DIY gaming devices, so it shouldn't be too dificult.

[MAXsenna]

I don't think doing it slowly will make a difference. Latching switches have that phenomenon where nothing is happening, then at some point you apply enough force that it latches into the new position immediately. I don't remember it, but it has a name. I don't know, it may as well just be a faulty one. 
I'm tempted to gut it and replace all the electronics with my own. I'm already familiar with DIY gaming devices, so it shouldn't be too dificult.

So, you have both a physical issue and issues in the sim?
I got my Warthog second hand, and have had to replace at least one switch.

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[SrSosio]

Yes, I got mine used too, and I've already heavily modified it. I removed the USB cables and replaced them with female USB ports, so I could just unplug them from the front and remove them, like the Winwing ones. I replaced the pinky switch, the china switch the Slew cursor and the AP grip button, and I think I need to replace the brake and the autopilot switches as I think they are starting to fail.

Edited 2 hours ago by SrSosio